Canon EOS R5 Firmware v2.0.0 Released

[David - Sydney]

Is anyone experiencing a focus problem after updating to 2.0? I did a shoot last night and discovered that auto focus sometimes didn't show the area that the camera focused on. I haven't had a chance to look at the RAWs but they seem to be in focus. It was weird but the focus square would not jump to the obvious focus point and would stay in one spot. It seemed as if my R5 was focusing properly but not displaying the selected focus point. Eye auto focus seemed to work properly but it was the normal auto focus seemed flaky.

This is my initial impressions and I haven't had a chance to do testing and fully understand what's going on.

I always wait a little while after a firmware update to see if there are any issues that Canon didn't anticipate in testing.
There has been a few x.x.1 increments in the past that I am okay with others finding them

 

[VegasCameraGuy]

I always wait a little while after a firmware update to see if there are any issues that Canon didn't anticipate in testing.
There has been a few x.x.1 increments in the past that I am okay with others finding them

I agree but wasn't anticipating a shoot to come up immediately after upgrading the firmware. But, I just can't resist getting the latest and greatest.

 

[Wickedkayaker]

R10 shows the focal length you are at in the bottom right corner

It boggles my mind why the r5 can’t have this one feature. Why is this even a 2.0 firmware, couldn’t they just call it 1.9.1?

 

[Wickedkayaker]

What is that?

On any zoom lens, or any lens for that matter, it will be displayed in the LCD what focal length you’re currently at. For example, with the 24-105mm if you’re at 31mm you can actually see that displayed while you’re shooting and changes as you zoom.

The R5c also displays the focal length while shooting. That’s where I noticed. Was using the 100-500 and now I want it. It’s such a simple thing. Can’t believe Canon hasn’t rolled this out.

 

[snapshot]

All cameras will ultimately shut down due to overheating but the environmental conditions need to be extreme.
Shooting in 40C indoors (no air flow) with thousands of images in a short time has the body getting warm but not shutting down.
What conditions are you shooting in?

for me: shooting 12FPS EFCS RAW+JPG for 1/2 sec every 2 sec with 5 min rests every 5 with an EF100-400 in continuous tracking eye-following auto-focus to a 1TB BELKIN CFex min for about an hour outdoors in 100F temp is enough for the camera to freeze. turn off for 1 min get another 10 min of shooting.

 

[Dragon]

for me: shooting 12FPS EFCS RAW+JPG for 1/2 sec every 2 sec with 5 min rests every 5 with an EF100-400 in continuous tracking eye-following auto-focus to a 1TB BELKIN CFex min for about an hour outdoors in 100F temp is enough for the camera to freeze. turn off for 1 min get another 10 min of shooting.

That works out to 5,400 frames/hour. Sorting through those must be tons of fun.

 

[David - Sydney]

for me: shooting 12FPS EFCS RAW+JPG for 1/2 sec every 2 sec with 5 min rests every 5 with an EF100-400 in continuous tracking eye-following auto-focus to a 1TB BELKIN CFex min for about an hour outdoors in 100F temp is enough for the camera to freeze. turn off for 1 min get another 10 min of shooting.

Was it freezing or steaming?
Maybe a R3 or R1 would be better suited for that level of workload!

 

[koenkooi]

Yeah, I was under the impression that was the case with my wife’s R7 too - wasn’t sure about the rest. It took me quite a while to figure out why my pictures kept ending up on the SD card.

I get the idea that, were I to do something stupid and, say, leave the card in the reader and go to shoot, the camera has covered my backside and switched to Slot 2 for me. But it seems to me it also would be nice for it to switch back to what I had it set to if I put an CFX card back in - particularly on a camera with mismatched cards like the R5. Were they both CFX, it kind of wouldn’t matter.

Isn’t that what the ‘priority’ setting does? On the R7 you can set that with the INFO button in the card config menu.

 

[Dragon]

Yeah, I was under the impression that was the case with my wife’s R7 too - wasn’t sure about the rest. It took me quite a while to figure out why my pictures kept ending up on the SD card.

I get the idea that, were I to do something stupid and, say, leave the card in the reader and go to shoot, the camera has covered my backside and switched to Slot 2 for me. But it seems to me it also would be nice for it to switch back to what I had it set to if I put an CFX card back in - particularly on a camera with mismatched cards like the R5. Were they both CFX, it kind of wouldn’t matter.

Actually, it makes sense the way it is. If it switched back after you had taken some photos with one card out, then you would have files on both cards and that would be even more confusing. Best plan is to look at the info screen after removing and inserting a card and see where it is then set. It only takes about 3 seconds to switch it back with the touch screen.

 

[gmon750]

I am really disappointed with the announced specifications of the canon R5 II. I will hold off on the purchase until some things clear up in the market. Tracking that actually works. Maybe Sony will be next camera. Until then, I will buy used EOS 5D mark III or IV to depreciate and sell the EF lenses in peace.

Not sure what your expectations are. I upgraded to the R5 from my 5DM3 two years ago. It is superior in every way to my 5DM3. Maybe your expectations a a bit high?

 

[snapshot]

Was it freezing or steaming?
Maybe a R3 or R1 would be better suited for that level of workload!

maybe those would be great (wasn't willing to step down to 24 MPix and up to a whole new battery system). I should point but my 5d4 never froze when i used it for ?similar? shoots (7fps). Don't get me wrong, I am getting much better results and i am pretty happy with the upgrade, but the camera will overheat in photo only.

 

[snapshot]

That works out to 5,400 frames/hour. Sorting through those must be tons of fun.

Well, yes. I get to see lots of technique errors. but it takes me about a week to sort through the 13K picts or so to find the keepers.

 

[Dragon]

maybe those would be great (wasn't willing to step down to 24 MPix and up to a whole new battery system). I should point but my 5d4 never froze when i used it for ?similar? shoots (7fps). Don't get me wrong, I am getting much better results and i am pretty happy with the upgrade, but the camera will overheat in photo only.

Get a second one. They are really cheap right now.

 

[tonccy]

Not sure what your expectations are. I upgraded to the R5 from my 5DM3 two years ago. It is superior in every way to my 5DM3. Maybe your expectations a a bit high?

But, our expectations are always directly proportional to the expected price of €4,500.

 

[pixel8foto]

They can do all these new things but still can't fix the camera randomly going in and out of auto ISO after FIVE YEARS of people complaining. Or fix latching one-shot/AI focus switching. Or enable dialling in AUTO ISO below ISO 50.
Version 1 still isn't even finished and they're claiming v2.

 

[Dragon]

They can do all these new things but still can't fix the camera randomly going in and out of auto ISO after FIVE YEARS of people complaining. Or fix latching one-shot/AI focus switching. Or enable dialling in AUTO ISO below ISO 50.
Version 1 still isn't even finished and they're claiming v2.

What does your last complaint even mean? The camera only goes to ISO 50 and that is an extended setting that mostly sacrifices highlight headroom so not much reason to use it.

 

[neuroanatomist]

What does your last complaint even mean? The camera only goes to ISO 50 and that is and extended setting that mostly sacrifices highlight headroom.

None of those complaints make sense to me.

 

[tq0cr5i]

It boggles my mind why the r5 can’t have this one feature. Why is this even a 2.0 firmware, couldn’t they just call it 1.9.1?

The feature is too simple to be remembered by Canon.

 

[P-visie]

They can do all these new things but still can't fix the camera randomly going in and out of auto ISO after FIVE YEARS of people complaining. Or fix latching one-shot/AI focus switching. Or enable dialling in AUTO ISO below ISO 50.
Version 1 still isn't even finished and they're claiming v2.

AI focus AF is only available in the A+ mode and switching AF modes is automatic in this mode.

From the R5 manual:

 

[pixel8foto]

To clarify these issues:

1) Randomly going in and out of auto ISO after FIVE YEARS of people complaining
R5 and R3 will repeatedly alter their ISO status after moments of inactivity during shooting. This is particularly troublesome when using lights (but is troublesome in every other way too).
Eg having balanced the ISO at a specific level with whatever additional lighting you are using, the camera will remeter against your will after a pause in use. Suddenly an ISO set at 640, for instance, will increase to 26,500 as the camera overrides the user's selection and remeters for an unlit space.

2) Fix latching one-shot/AI focus switching
Prior to the r5, on every previous model that had the option to assign one-shot/AI servo switching to a button, when you programmed a switch (eg a front button) to switch between these focus modes, the action would be a temporary action, in effect only switching while you depressed the switch and reverting when you released it. With the r5, the action changed so that the button *latches* the mode change after each press. This has the undersirable effect of causing the focus mode to switch when straps or knocks or accidental taps against any surface hit the button, so the camera would often not be in the desired focus mode when it is lifted for use.

3) Or enable dialling in AUTO ISO below ISO 50.
With the camera to your eye, you cannot dial in to "AUTO ISO" using whichever wheel you've programmed to control the ISO. The path is 160>100>50 - then stop. If you take the camera from your eye, press the ISO option on the screen, the path is 160>100>50>AUTO, as it was in all Canon cameras before the mirrorless releases. The removal of the ability to dial in AUTO ISO without removing your eye from the viewfinder is unhelpful in that it requires the user to have to "detach" themselves from the tactile and immedaite process of taking a photograph, remove their eye from the subject and find the non-tactile buttons on screen to effect the ISO change, at worst missing the photograph, at best losing engagement.