Anthony, I don't really have any "wisdom" for you, but I would like to share some of my thoughts from my limited experience with manual focusing on modern DSLR's.
anthonyd said:
+ My camera body: 60D ... I know, I know, please bear with me. They do seem to make focus assist prisms for it. I'm not verse in the subject so maybe I'm misusing the term "prism". How about this
matte focusing screen?
Focusing screen would be the correct term. If you want to do manual focus looking through the optical viewfinder, I consider a precision matte focusing screen a must. It is very hard, if not impossible, to judge accurate focus through the optical viewfinder with the stock focusing screen.
From what I can see in the 60D manual it supports the Ef-s Super Precision Matte screen, which is what you would want (
remember to change the custom function settings after replacing the focusing screen). I have the full frame equivalent in my 6D and it makes a huge difference.
Like an auto focus sensor in a modern DSLR, if the subject has low contrast or is in low light, it is much more difficult for you to judge and achieve correct focus.
anthonyd said:
+ Kids that are moving: I didn't mean kids running around and playing. For that I use my existing lenses in AF and I'm very happy. I meant kids (and adults) posing, but inevitably moving a bit. So, mostly static subjects, but not as study as landscapes. Think portraits, or candid of kids doing something like digging in the sand, or playing a board game.
This is hard to say since there are so many different scenarios. As soon as something starts moving, achieving accurate manual focus gets a lot more difficult. Of course, the level of difficulty depends on several factors such as focal length, aperture, distance to subject and of course how sporadic the movement is.
Someone posing for you and intentionally moving a little bit forward/backwards you should be able to correct for with a little bit of practice. In some cases I find that it can be easier to move yourself, as in leaning slightly forward or backwards, then trying to follow them by turning the focusing ring on the lens. This is especially true at close-ups.
Kids sitting in a sand box playing and moving around gets a little more difficult, as the movement is sporadic and harder to predict. If you frame up for a head shot you will find it a lot more difficult then if you go a bit wider framing for a full body shot or the whole sand box.
That said, individual skill at manual focusing also plays a huge role. The more you practice the better you get. It is not impossible, but practice is definitely required.
anthonyd said:
+ Zeiss glass: Unfortunately I don't have the budget for that. I was more interested in offerings like the latest Samyang 135 that is getting good reviews and costs half of the Canon 135, as well as some old "magical" lenses like the Helios and other strange glass that Dustin often shoots with.
If you want to focus through the optical viewfinder, a lens where the aperture is electronically controlled from the camera (such as Zeiss ZE lenses) makes it a whole lot easier. Let me explain why:
Any lens where the aperture is controlled by your camera (Canon, Sigma, Zeiss ZE, etc), regardless whether you have set it to F/5.6 or F/11, is wide open until you press the shutter button. Once you press the shutter button the aperture then closes down to your specified setting, and once the picture has been captured by your camera it opens back up again. This allows for the maximum amount of light to enter the lens so your autofocus system can work.
Similar to your autofocus system, you need light to pass through the lens when doing manual focus so you can see your subject. The more light the easier it is to manually focus.
Lenses such as the Samyang 135mm F2 does not have electronic communication with the camera, and therefore the aperture is controlled on the lens. This means that it does not stay open and close down only when you capture the photo, but instead it will be closed down all the time and let in less light through your lens. If you only shoot wide open at F2 it doesn't matter, the lens is wide open anyway and cannot let in more light. But if you want to shoot at a different aperture, be aware that the more you stop down your lens the darker your viewfinder will get.
To see the practical difference this causes, you can look through your viewfinder with any lens attached and press the depth of field preview button at different aperture settings. This will give you a better idea then my explanation here.
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I hope this helps a little bit.
Manually focusing can be very fun, and very frustrating. It is not for everybody. The best way to find out is to try it.