ND Filter for video - how to use?

[cinema-dslr]

you should leave your shutter on 1/60th

1/60th if he's shooting 30fps, but 1/50 for 24fps.

As i see it the problem of the original poster was about the strobing effect due to higher shutter settings.
This has al to do with the freq. of the powergrid and nothing to do with the prefered shuttersetting for motionblur.
All light sourches directly connected to the powergrid will resonate at 60hz(50hz in europe) that is why if i'm shooting in the usa i would have to use 1/60th even when i'm shooting 25p.
Maybe that is the reason some people experience light flicker in the US when shooting 24p at 1/50th

 

[Lyra Video Productions]

...it was nice and bright, and for some brain fart of a reason, turned the shutter speed up, and it was strobe and stutter looking.

you should leave your shutter on 1/60th

1/60th if he's shooting 30fps, but 1/50 for 24fps.

As i see it the problem of the original poster was about the strobing effect due to higher shutter settings.
This has al to do with the freq. of the powergrid and nothing to do with the prefered shuttersetting for motionblur.
All light sourches directly connected to the powergrid will resonate at 60hz(50hz in europe) that is why if i'm shooting in the usa i would have to use 1/60th even when i'm shooting 25p.
Maybe that is the reason some people experience light flicker in the US when shooting 24p at 1/50th

Maybe the OP can clear it up, but I'm pretty sure in this case he was talking about the stutter you can get from using very high shutter speed, not related to the grid. You'd even get this shooting outside. I shoot a lot at 1/50th (or 1/48th with magic lantern) and 24p and don't have trouble at all with tungsten or other constant light sources.

 

[schemula]

Maybe the OP can clear it up, but I'm pretty sure in this case he was talking about the stutter you can get from using very high shutter speed, not related to the grid. You'd even get this shooting outside. I shoot a lot at 1/50th (or 1/48th with magic lantern) and 24p and don't have trouble at all with tungsten or other constant light sources.

Yes my problem was specifically related to the faster than 1/60 shutter speed and not the lights. I upped the shutter speed to deal with the fact that my scene was a little too bright. I forget what I used, but it was in the 1/200 range and as long as the subject was still, it was ok, but any side to side movement, and oh man, awful.

The light kit I rent is an ARRI tungsten constant light source.

I've decided to buy the light kit and solve this from the light side. I was not happy with the ND filter color cast and while I may get a less drastic ND filter, I'm going to move to a softbox and scrims and maybe a dimmer or two to get control over the lights.

I'd like to stay under ISO 400 with a 1/60 shutter speed (or 1/50 for 24p) and in the 2.8 to 4 aperture range. But I think attacking this from the light side is going to be the way to go.

Thanks.

 

[Lyra Video Productions]

Maybe the OP can clear it up, but I'm pretty sure in this case he was talking about the stutter you can get from using very high shutter speed, not related to the grid. You'd even get this shooting outside. I shoot a lot at 1/50th (or 1/48th with magic lantern) and 24p and don't have trouble at all with tungsten or other constant light sources.

Yes my problem was specifically related to the faster than 1/60 shutter speed and not the lights. I upped the shutter speed to deal with the fact that my scene was a little too bright. I forget what I used, but it was in the 1/200 range and as long as the subject was still, it was ok, but any side to side movement, and oh man, awful.

The light kit I rent is an ARRI tungsten constant light source.

I've decided to buy the light kit and solve this from the light side. I was not happy with the ND filter color cast and while I may get a less drastic ND filter, I'm going to move to a softbox and scrims and maybe a dimmer or two to get control over the lights.

I'd like to stay under ISO 400 with a 1/60 shutter speed (or 1/50 for 24p) and in the 2.8 to 4 aperture range. But I think attacking this from the light side is going to be the way to go.

Thanks.

Good decision, I think. And I think if you use a softbox that should cut enough light to not need ND inside. I find dimmers are helpful for adjusting back light--just keep in mind that when you dim tungsten it gets a warmer color temp so you may need to get a new white balance if you dim drastically. If you do any outside shooting at all though, you'll eventually want to get a variable ND so you can get those wide apertures in bright light.