Side by side comparison of the Canon EOS R5, Canon EOS R and Canon EOS RP

Starting out EOS R

EOS R5 - RF24-105mm F4L, RF70-200mm f2.8L
Feb 13, 2020
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Your measurements highlight an interesting fact that the "unused?" border at the bottom of the R5 is *twice* as wide as it's other borders. But I also noticed that the right border of the R is also twice as wide as it's other borders. So it looks like the R active screen is offset to the left, while the R5 one is offset to the top. Why would they do this?
It could be to help with using the top right quadrant for adjusting focus point, acknowledging that the grip is slightly bigger than the R making it easier for the thumb to reach the screen when gripping the camera? We have been having a discussion on this on how easy is it to use the R's screen to adjust focus when the camera is up to your eye. Coincidence or maybe everyone is thinking the same things?
 
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sobrien

CR Pro
Apr 26, 2020
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It could be to help with using the top right quadrant for adjusting focus point, acknowledging that the grip is slightly bigger than the R making it easier for the thumb to reach the screen when gripping the camera? We have been having a discussion on this on how easy is it to use the R's screen to adjust focus when the camera is up to your eye. Coincidence or maybe everyone is thinking the same things?

You might be happy to hear that the entire back screen, including the blacked out portions, can be used for touch and drag AF - at least on the R.

Back to the drawing board with regard to reason(s) for this change, however.
 
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jhpeterson

CR Pro
Feb 7, 2011
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Us larger handed North American male mammals can do fine with smaller camera bodies IF the controls are not cramped.
A point well made!
I find most all small cameras very difficult if not impossible to use. Some of that is because overall physical dimensions aren't large enough for me to hold the camera comfortably. But, an even bigger factor is that the controls aren't social distancing.
 
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H. Jones

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Aug 1, 2014
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Looks good, my only complaint ergonomically is the lack of a mode dial (although the ability to add more than 3 custom modes may help make up for that). Honestly, this should have been the button layout of the original R...

On a counterpoint, one of my favorite parts of the 1D series is not having a mode dial. My 1Dx2 allows me to hit the M-FN to cycle through my custom shooting modes, which means no matter what setting I'm in, if action suddenly happens I can hit M-FN and instantly be in TV mode with a 1/1000th shutter and auto ISO, something I simply can't do on my 5D cameras. Removing the mode dial makes it far faster to make custom buttons flip back and forth to your favorite modes instantly, vs moving your hands to grab a dial and look for the right mode.
 
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It sure looks like the R and R5 are exactly the same size. I like the layout mostly, but have one minor concern. It looks like the AF-on looks to be farther left, and farther away from the grip than any other EOS camera. Might take a bit of getting used to. The good news is they are in the same order as the 1DX on the top right side.

i'm betting that you will outsmart the camera :)
 
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The EOS-1's (N, V, DsI DsII DsIII) have been my favorite cameras to hold. The R is too small for comfort, OR a sure and steady grip for me. Although I like the portability aspect, I think I can get that via the smaller lenses and shorter film-flange distance. I don't care if the camera's taller.

Here's a question: has anyone speculated on whether the R5--sort of a 5-series, is going to be the top end? Or is anyone noticing holes in the specs suggesting a higher-end camera would be forthcoming? What I'm waiting for is a sensor with new abilities: extended dynamic range, electronic ND, no rolling shutter, etc.
what you're describing sounds like the c300 III, which has 16-17 stops of dynamic range and built in ND filters, R5 sounds good but it's not a cinema camera and it's probably going to be 12-13 stops of dynamic range like the 1dx III or less. I'm more interested in the photo specs, should be a big improvement over the R's dynamic range since it's a new sensor and processor, I'm pretty sure there's going to be a big announcement over the photo specs after the Sony press conference , cause canon has been tight lip over the photo specs
 
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I would like to see comparison photos between 5D MKIV and R5. I think the ergonomics are 95% identical.
No surprise given they stated the R5 is the mirrorless 5 series we've been wanting and would no doubt want to keep ergonomics similar so us 5 series users that have been waiting for a worthy successor would feel right at home. Had zero interest in the R but will certainly get back into Canon with the R5. I have all my glass but have been using Sony for 3 years. I will keep running both systems, picking and choosing certain lenses from each maker. I'm more likely to sell my A7RIII for the R5 and keep the A9 for action and because some of the Sony lenses I have are so damn good and RF is way dearer than even Sony GM glass where I live.
 
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I think it can BE ASSUMED that any of the modern R-series Canon cameras WILL take decent photos no matter which one you buy. The typical image quality and colour science of Canon proves that.

As an interesting aside, I would like to EXTOLL the virtues of using VIDEO FRAME GRABS as the basis for still photos. The upcoming R5 having DCI 8K video recording capability is basically a 30 fps Burst Rate 35+ megapixel stills camera when using the 8K 29.97 video recording mode in 4:2:2 10 bits per channel colour sampling mode. The aspect ratio of 1:89:1 in DCI 8K recording mode means you DO NEED TO CROP HARD but as an example of what can be done from video, I offer the below examples taken from 4K video where video frames have been cropped, had their shadows boosted, their highlights taken down a bit, some edge sharpening done (i.e. unsharp mask filter) and a saturation boost made.

As a general enthusiast photographer, the fact that I can buy many models of DSLR and Mirrorless cameras that now have 24 fps to 120 fps video, that ALSO MEANS that you now have a BURST RATE Stills Camera that works between 24 fps to 120 fps. You just need to do some diligent video frame choosing and the post processing to get those perfect shots. There is no reason WHY NOT that you can't just set your shutter speed to something faster than 1/120th of a second, set your DUAL PIXEL AUTOFOCUS to ON and then RECORD the action sequences you want as 24 fps to 120 fps VIDEO and then use Adobe or Blackmagic Resolve to import, choose and colour correct the video frames you want to export as "The Perfectly Timed" still photos!

So as noted below, are some examples of burst rate video (24 fps) taken with a 4K video camera modified as noted above with some hard cropping, resampling/resizing and luminance/colour grading to get relatively decent still photos which are quite printable out to 8x10 for framing. If my el-cheapo Sony Handycam video camera can give me this, imagine what a Canon R5 or R6 will be able to do!

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SecureGSM

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what you're describing sounds like the c300 III, which has 16-17 stops of dynamic range and built in ND filters, R5 sounds good but it's not a cinema camera and it's probably going to be 12-13 stops of dynamic range like the 1dx III or less. I'm more interested in the photo specs, should be a big improvement over the R's dynamic range since it's a new sensor and processor, I'm pretty sure there's going to be a big announcement over the photo specs after the Sony press conference , cause canon has been tight lip over the photo specs
16-17 stops of DR in C300 III Whaaat :) do you have a link? Is that with DGO enabled ? That’s essentially a DPRAW mode on steroids but 16 stops of DR? Uhmmm. No..
 
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I think it can BE ASSUMED that any of the modern R-series Canon cameras WILL take decent photos no matter which one you buy. The typical image quality and colour science of Canon proves that.

As an interesting aside, I would like to EXTOLL the virtues of using VIDEO FRAMES GRABS as the basis for still photos. The upcoming R5 having DCI 8K video recording capability is basically a 30 fps Burst Rate 35+ megapixel stills camera when using the 8K 29.97 video recording mode in 4:2:2 10 bits er channel colour sampling mode. The aspect ratio of 1:89:1 in DCI 8K recording mode means you DO NEED TO CROP HARD but as an example of what can be done from video, I offer the below examples taken from 4K video where video frames have been cropped, had their shadows boosted, their highlights taken down a bit, some edge sharpening done (i.e. unsharp mask filter) and a saturation boost made.

As a general enthusiast photographer, the fact that I can buy many models of DSLR and Mirrorless cameras that now have 24 fps to 120 fps video, that ALSO MEANS that you now have a BURST RATE Stills Camera that works between 24 fps to 120 fps. You just need to do some diligent video frame choosing and the post processing to get those perfect shots. There is no reason WHY NOT that you can't just set your shutter speed to something faster than 1/120th of a second, set your DUAL PIXEL AUTOFOCUS to ON and then RECORD the action sequences you want as 24 fps to 120 fps VIDEO and then use Adobe or Blackmagic Resolve to import, choose and colour correct the video frames you want to export as "The Perfectly Timed" still photos!

So as noted below, are some examples of burst rate video (24 fps) taken with a 4K video camera modified as noted above with some hard cropping, resampling/resizing and luminance/colour grading to get relatively decent still photos which are quite printable out to 8x10 for framing. If my el-cheapo Sony Handycam video camera can give me this, imagine what a Canon R5 or R6 will be able to do!

v
I too am interested in frame grabs from 8k video especially since it can be in in Raw. But what about rolling shutter where there's motion?
 
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I too am interested in frame grabs from 8k video especially since it can be in in Raw. But what about rolling shutter where there's motion?

===

All DLSR/Mirrorless cameras WILL have rolling shutter artifacts UNLESS the sensor is Global Shutter (i.e. Canon C700 GS DCI 4K cinema camera). HOWEVER, most newer Canon cameras have LOWERED the propensity for rolling shutter artifacts to present themselves in most photos by having faster readout speeds. This means if you use a faster shutter speed, you MAY be able to force the digital signal processor and/or sensor readout circuitry to take enough shortcuts that rolling shutter is minimized during video recording. This would TEND to give you better frame grabs from your video recordings!

For high action sports such as soccer, hockey, football, basketball, skiing, I do suggest shutter speeds of 1/400th to 1/1000th of a second. For F1 racing, motocross, or flying, then 1/2000th may be your best bet. Of course, the faster you set your shutter speed, the higher the ISO you may need. You may need to shoot at ISO 1600, ISO 3200 or even ISO 6400 in order to get good frame grabs at such 1/1000th of second shutter speeds. ISO-400 or ISO-800 simply may not work with video-to-still photo frame grabbing for many types of fast action scenes.

For landscapes, many birding shots or people walking shots, you can get away with 1/120th and 1/200th of a second when you are recording video at 24fps, 25 fps, 30 fps, 50 fps, 60 fps, 100 fps or 120 fps video modes.

The KEY ISSUE is the camera SEES the scene VERY DIFFERENTLY in video mode than when in still photo mode. YOU MUST do luminance and colour grading in order to get an optimal quality still photo frame grab from video! You can buy/use constrasty cinema-oriented LUTs (Lookup Tables) in order to more closely emulate the LOOK of DSLR/Mirrorless still photography but that is more of a personal bias in terms of the LOOKS you happen to like.

I would suggest the following colour correcting lookup tables (LUT) to be applied to your Canon Clog/Clog2 encoded video recordings in order to get the BEST LOOKING frames grabs.

I personally like Red Giant best but that's just me!:

Rocket Stock:

Filtergrade:

and a whole lot more when you search for Video and Cinema LUT in a Google search.

You could also export your entire or user-set portions of the video clips as a series of uncompressed PNG or bitmap (BMP) image files and use something like FroKnowsPhoto FroPack on only the photos you happen to like!

FroPack Filters:

YES! You're spending a bit of money on editing programs and LUT filters, BUT IT IS NICE to get the equivalent of a 24 fps to 120 fps BURST RATE still camera for whatever video-capable DSLR or Mirrorless camera you have NOW! If you have a Canon 5D Mk2/3/4, a Sony A72 or R3, or a Fuji XT3/XT4 or even a Canon M50, you ALREADY HAVE at least 24 fps burst rate in the video portion! You just need to go into video mode and set your shutter speeds to at least 1/120th of a second and ISO to at least ISO 1600, your video file format to a high bit rate per second and/or your colour channel bit depth to 10 bits and better and you are ready to go!

Load the resulting video files into your video timeline editor, grab ONLY the frames you like from your video file and colour correct using the LUT presets and any other colour corrections you may like and export as a PNG or BMP file set for your BEST quality images! Then print out at 600 to 1200 dpi with Error Diffusion set to ON and Colour Rendering to Perceptual (i.e. Match what's on Display) and you have your 8x10 print ready for framing! With DCI 8K frame grabs coming from the Canon R5 you can EASILY do 36 inch by 24 inch studio-quality prints if you set colour correction and your printer settings correctly!

What's not to like?

V
 
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usern4cr

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Sep 2, 2018
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===

All DLSR/Mirrorless cameras WILL have rolling shutter artifacts UNLESS the sensor is Global Shutter (i.e. Canon C700 GS DCI 4K cinema camera). HOWEVER, most newer Canon cameras have LOWERED the propensity for rolling shutter artifacts to present themselves in most photos by having faster readout speeds. This means if you use a faster shutter speed, you MAY be able to force the digital signal processor and/or sensor readout circuitry to take enough shortcuts that rolling shutter is minimized during video recording. This would TEND to give you better frame grabs from your video recordings!

For high action sports such as soccer, hockey, football, basketball, skiing, I do suggest shutter speeds of 1/400th to 1/1000th of a second. For F1 racing, motocross, or flying, then 1/2000th may be your best bet. Of course, the faster you set your shutter speed, the higher the ISO you may need. You may need to shoot at ISO 1600, ISO 3200 or even ISO 6400 in order to get good frame grabs at such 1/1000th of second shutter speeds. ISO-400 or ISO-800 simply may not work with video-to-still photo frame grabbing for many types of fast action scenes.

For landscapes, many birding shots or people walking shots, you can get away with 1/120th and 1/200th of a second when you are recording video at 24fps, 25 fps, 30 fps, 50 fps, 60 fps, 100 fps or 120 fps video modes.

The KEY ISSUE is the camera SEES the scene VERY DIFFERENTLY in video mode than when in still photo mode. YOU MUST do luminance and colour grading in order to get an optimal quality still photo frame grab from video! You can buy/use constrasty cinema-oriented LUTs (Lookup Tables) in order to more closely emulate the LOOK of DSLR/Mirrorless still photography but that is more of a personal bias in terms of the LOOKS you happen to like.

I would suggest the following colour correcting lookup tables (LUT) to be applied to your Canon Clog/Clog2 encoded video recordings in order to get the BEST LOOKING frames grabs.

I personally like Red Giant best but that's just me!:

Rocket Stock:

Filtergrade:

and a whole lot more when you search for Video and Cinema LUT in a Google search.

You could also export your entire or user-set portions of the video clips as a series of uncompressed PNG or bitmap (BMP) image files and use something like FroKnowsPhoto FroPack on only the photos you happen to like!

FroPack Filters:

YES! You're spending a bit of money on editing programs and LUT filters, BUT IT IS NICE to get the equivalent of a 24 fps to 120 fps BURST RATE still camera for whatever video-capable DSLR or Mirrorless camera you have NOW! If you have a Canon 5D Mk2/3/4, a Sony A72 or R3, or a Fuji XT3/XT4 or even a Canon M50, you ALREADY HAVE at least 24 fps burst rate in the video portion! You just need to go into video mode and set your shutter speeds to at least 1/120th of a second and ISO to at least ISO 1600, your video file format to a high bit rate per second and/or your colour channel bit depth to 10 bits and better and you are ready to go!

Load the resulting video files into your video timeline editor, grab ONLY the frames you like from your video file and colour correct using the LUT presets and any other colour corrections you may like and export as a PNG or BMP file set for your BEST quality images! Then print out at 600 to 1200 dpi with Error Diffusion set to ON and Colour Rendering to Perceptual (i.e. Match what's on Display) and you have your 8x10 print ready for framing! With DCI 8K frame grabs coming from the Canon R5 you can EASILY do 36 inch by 24 inch studio-quality prints if you set colour correction and your printer settings correctly!

What's not to like?

V
HarryFilm - I was impressed by the photos you claimed above from video, and your subsequent lengthly posts. Impressed so much, that I actually gave a couple a thumbs up. But as I started to comment on your latest post I noticed that it was from that guy that posted all the BS (but entertaining) posts about your Canadian hi tech company with out-of-this-world accomplishments. I immediately tried to remove my above thumbs-ups, but unfortunately I can't find a way to do that.

So all I'm left with is a reminder to look out for any wiseguys, no matter how funny their posts, before giving a thumbs-up, reply, or even serious consideration to their content. And it's a shame, really, since I'll never know whether any of the interesting or insightful things they say are actually true or not.
 
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SecureGSM

2 x 5D IV
Feb 26, 2017
2,360
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HarryFilm - I was impressed by the photos you claimed above from video, and your subsequent lengthly posts. Impressed so much, that I actually gave a couple a thumbs up. But as I started to comment on your latest post I noticed that it was from that guy that posted all the BS (but entertaining) posts about your Canadian hi tech company with out-of-this-world accomplishments. I immediately tried to remove my above thumbs-ups, but unfortunately I can't find a way to do that.

So all I'm left with is a reminder to look out for any wiseguys, no matter how funny their posts, before giving a thumbs-up, reply, or even serious consideration to their content. And it's a shame, really, since I'll never know whether any of the interesting or insightful things they say are actually true or not.
++++ I immediately tried to remove my above thumbs-ups, but unfortunately I can't find a way to do that.

A.M. to remove the “thumb up” simply tap/click on the “Thumb up” symbol once. it Will be gone in an instant.
 
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HarryFilm - I was impressed by the photos you claimed above from video, and your subsequent lengthly posts. Impressed so much, that I actually gave a couple a thumbs up. But as I started to comment on your latest post I noticed that it was from that guy that posted all the BS (but entertaining) posts about your Canadian hi tech company with out-of-this-world accomplishments. I immediately tried to remove my above thumbs-ups, but unfortunately I can't find a way to do that.

So all I'm left with is a reminder to look out for any wiseguys, no matter how funny their posts, before giving a thumbs-up, reply, or even serious consideration to their content. And it's a shame, really, since I'll never know whether any of the interesting or insightful things they say are actually true or not.

---

Well ... If I was a Wiseguy, I'd be saying Ya Gotta Keep QUIET about all my previous posts !!!! Omerta! Capiche? ;-) :) ;-)

... OR ....

you could just take EVERYTHING I say with 20,000 grains of salt!

THIS IS THE INTERNET AFTER ALL AND I AM A CAT TYPING AWAY AT MY LONESOME KEYBOARD !!!

V
 
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---

Well ... If I was a Wiseguy, I'd be saying Ya Gotta Keep QUIET about all my previous posts !!!! Omerta! ;-) :) ;-)

... OR ....

you could just take EVERYTHING I say with 20,000 grains of salt!

THIS IS THE INTERNET AFTER ALL AND I AM A CAT TYPING AWAY AT MY LONESOME KEYBOARD !!!

V


.... OR....

maybe it REALLY IS ALL TRUE and that big Red Bitten Fruit Company REALLY WILL be introducing two large-sensor super smartphones with a 2/3rds inch and APS-C camera on-board AND a super pro-level global shutter 50.3 megapixel and DCI 8K 60/120 fps Medium Fromat combined stills/video camera for only $8888 US

Who Knows but some guy named Donald with Orange Hair!

Ya just NEVER KNOW what he's gonna say next! :) ;-) :)

v
 
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