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All DLSR/Mirrorless cameras WILL have rolling shutter artifacts UNLESS the sensor is Global Shutter (i.e. Canon C700 GS DCI 4K cinema camera). HOWEVER, most newer Canon cameras have LOWERED the propensity for rolling shutter artifacts to present themselves in most photos by having faster readout speeds. This means if you use a faster shutter speed, you MAY be able to force the digital signal processor and/or sensor readout circuitry to take enough shortcuts that rolling shutter is minimized during video recording. This would TEND to give you better frame grabs from your video recordings!
For high action sports such as soccer, hockey, football, basketball, skiing, I do suggest shutter speeds of 1/400th to 1/1000th of a second. For F1 racing, motocross, or flying, then 1/2000th may be your best bet. Of course, the faster you set your shutter speed, the higher the ISO you may need. You may need to shoot at ISO 1600, ISO 3200 or even ISO 6400 in order to get good frame grabs at such 1/1000th of second shutter speeds. ISO-400 or ISO-800 simply may not work with video-to-still photo frame grabbing for many types of fast action scenes.
For landscapes, many birding shots or people walking shots, you can get away with 1/120th and 1/200th of a second when you are recording video at 24fps, 25 fps, 30 fps, 50 fps, 60 fps, 100 fps or 120 fps video modes.
The KEY ISSUE is the camera SEES the scene VERY DIFFERENTLY in video mode than when in still photo mode. YOU MUST do luminance and colour grading in order to get an optimal quality still photo frame grab from video! You can buy/use constrasty cinema-oriented LUTs (Lookup Tables) in order to more closely emulate the LOOK of DSLR/Mirrorless still photography but that is more of a personal bias in terms of the LOOKS you happen to like.
I would suggest the following colour correcting lookup tables (LUT) to be applied to your Canon Clog/Clog2 encoded video recordings in order to get the BEST LOOKING frames grabs.
I personally like Red Giant best but that's just me!:
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Rocket Stock:
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Filtergrade:
When it comes to video editing, color grading can be one of the most challenging elements. The reason is because lighting conditions change and it’s often hard to know what all the colors and shading will look like throughout a film. One tool you can use to help save time and match colors to a [...]
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and a whole lot more when you search for Video and Cinema LUT in a Google search.
You could also export your entire or user-set portions of the video clips as a series of uncompressed PNG or bitmap (BMP) image files and use something like FroKnowsPhoto FroPack on only the photos you happen to like!
FroPack Filters:
YES! You're spending a bit of money on editing programs and LUT filters, BUT IT IS NICE to get the equivalent of a 24 fps to 120 fps BURST RATE still camera for whatever video-capable DSLR or Mirrorless camera you have NOW! If you have a Canon 5D Mk2/3/4, a Sony A72 or R3, or a Fuji XT3/XT4 or even a Canon M50, you ALREADY HAVE at least 24 fps burst rate in the video portion! You just need to go into video mode and set your shutter speeds to at least 1/120th of a second and ISO to at least ISO 1600, your video file format to a high bit rate per second and/or your colour channel bit depth to 10 bits and better and you are ready to go!
Load the resulting video files into your video timeline editor, grab ONLY the frames you like from your video file and colour correct using the LUT presets and any other colour corrections you may like and export as a PNG or BMP file set for your BEST quality images! Then print out at 600 to 1200 dpi with Error Diffusion set to ON and Colour Rendering to Perceptual (i.e. Match what's on Display) and you have your 8x10 print ready for framing! With DCI 8K frame grabs coming from the Canon R5 you can EASILY do 36 inch by 24 inch studio-quality prints if you set colour correction and your printer settings correctly!
What's not to like?
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