Chuck Alaimo said:
Again, with all things in photography unless you have an unlimited budget you make compromises. The real waste would be to spend 1K or more for an EF-S prime then realize you want to upgrade to a FF camera cause then your stuck. Better to make the investment in glass.
Of course, when you upgrade to FF, you'll likely want to move to longer focal lengths, so you'll probably replace at least some of your glass anyway, even if you don't own any EF-S glass.
Besides, the reason that they make EF-S glass is precisely because the crop factor results in EF lenses (particularly zoom lenses) being less than ideal choices in terms of having to swap lenses constantly. The 24mm end of a 24–105 or 24–70 lens represents a decent wide angle view. The 15mm end of a 15–85 represents the equivalent on crop. Stick a 24–105 on a crop body, though, and your widest shot is approximately equivalent to sticking a shorty 40 on a full-frame. That's just not very wide. I can't imagine trying to shoot like that.
I realize primes are something of a different story, but the lack of an ultra-wide EF-S prime means that on EF-S, you're pretty much stuck with the 10–22 for ultrawide, whereas FF folks have a lot more options.
hemanthforcanonrumors said:
It's will be a very brilliant idea of having this Crop factor controlled b/w say a 1.6 and Full Frame Types. if they can control this with the help of a S/W driving the view finder and the mirror behaviour, it will be the most versatile camera ever.. i think. !! I think its technically too complex to mimic the behaviour of a Full frame and a crop frame in 1 single body.
Not too complex, although Canon's decision to allow the rear elements of EF-S lenses to stick farther back past the flange does make it harder than, for example, the Nikon design.
To do this with the Canon system would require a lens that pivots at the midpoint after sliding. You'd do this by having a track along both sides of the mirror, but only for the last few millimeters, with a shallower track for the rotation pin that extends the entire height of the mirror. Use one solenoid to pulls the lens down that track until the pin hits the end of the track, at which point the midpoint of the mirror is at the top of the viewfinder, and the bottom of the mirror has cleared the edge guides. Use a spring to rotate the mirror.
At the pivot point, add a curved piece and an appropriate guide on the body so that the mirror cannot slide back until it has rotated back to a position where the mirror would slide into its track. Then, to return the mirror to the normal position, just release the solenoid that pulled the lens down the track and use a second solenoid to push/pull the mirror back into the 45 degree position. When it reaches that position, it slides back down the track and into the edge guides. Be sure that the end of the edge guides slopes outwards a little bit so that if the slide preventing piece at the pivot wears down and the solenoid gets weak and doesn't quite slam the mirror back quickly enough, the mirror won't jam halfway through its slide.
Mechanically, it is certainly more complex than a flip mirror, but if it is simple enough that I can crudely design it in my head in thirty seconds, I'm sure Canon could do it precisely without too much effort.
