jonesfoto said:

I set Zebras for Zebra 2 only, and set that threshold to 100%. I lock that in to all three of my Preset shooting modes for video, assigning the DOF button for on/off. However, when actually shooting I get no zebras. If I use Zebra 1, set to 95%, it works fine. How can I get a 100% only zebra to function? Help?!

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Haha. I saw the title and thought it was a reference to the difficulties the AF system has with Zebras. Cant help you with the video side of things though. Sorry

This has been fixed.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Check the rear element of the lens. If its dirty, that will show. Otherwise, internal lens dust really is not a issue to images. The sensor is the most likely to be the issue by a huge factor. Cleaning a sensor by using a blower is good, but oil spots can also get on a sensor and be very difficult to remove, even with a wet cleaning. They tend to make the transparent blobs in the photos.

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You're right, there is few big particles of dust and many small on the rear element of the lens Observing my 24-105 with a lamp and I'm quite shocked how many dust EVERYWHERE in the lens that only 2 years old.
After cleaning sensor made a test shots with different lenses.
Attaching 2 shots on 24mm F22 from rf 15-35 and 24-105. Blobs very noticeable.

Seems I must going to Service sometime...

Michael Clark said:

It's easy to jump ship and switch when they don't actually own anything from either system...

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And will continue to not own anything from the new system afterwards.

I own everything Nikon ever made...however every single item of my Nikon gear is average in every way except for not existing. That minor attribute is not there. But I could switch to a bunch of S*ny gear with the same minor handicap at any time.

[Inspired by someone's example demonstrating why "existence" is not an attribute of an object.]

SteveC said:

More recently than your experience there, I saw less of that. On the other hand when they saw me walking around with an R5 with a small white (EF 100-400 IIL) on it, they assumed I could take a better picture of them than they could (and they were probably right just because "selfie" is awkward) and I got a lot of requests to take their picture for them. If someone wants to do BOTH the selfie and the unimpeded shot of the scenery, more power to them. In my case I'd rather not stress the optics or electronics taking a selfie.

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That reminds of something that happened years and years ago: we were walking along a beach taking pictures of crabs when someone asked if we could take a picture of him, with his own camera. That's when the blinking-red-battery indicator started blinking on his powershot. I took his CF card, put it in my 20D and took a few pictures. Put the CF card back and the powershot had no issue showing the 20D JPEGs before the battery went dead.

I'm not fluent in selfie, so I try to get someone else to take the picture when possible

OTMT said:

Either way, I doubt that very many people are attaching a 25k zeiss master prime to a C200-tier camera.

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You are right. This people works with Arri camera as shown in the last post about Sundance festival. But for documentaries C300 mk ii was the camera.

YuengLinger said:

The third one is a keeper, also tack sharp. (Attached is sooc.)

Cheers!

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Seems your order was rigged...

Excellent insights. Helped me better appreciate a camera I've had for almost six months.

EOS R6 - Are 20 Megapixels enough? Canon EOS R6 in the field - Bird Photography review - YouTube

I go over some of the differences similarities and how they fit into my style of shooting. It is a bit too long, but I am giving away some stuff. I am giving away a Wacom tablet, the basic one, an Olympus Tough Camera and I decided to add a Canon 400 f5.6 at 1000 subs if I live that long.

A year ago I did not care a wit about video, and now I am really addicted to trying to learn. It is a steep curve. I blame the 1DX3 for the addiction. I thought I could grow the channel and get some stuff out in the hands of someone who can use it. Going forward there will not be many reviews. It will be mostly focused on wildlife video, and documenting a particular place I find interesting. I have a channel trailer that gives an overview. The link below is the 1dx / r5 video. Thanks for any views and if you are interested in any of the items sub and comment.

YuengLinger said:

Chris, every impression I get from your posts suggest you are a very skilled photographer. So it is with the most humble of attitudes that I recommend, even when subjects are static, if you are hand holding and have a fairly wide aperture, you use Servo AF. I discovered with the EOS R, Servo AF produces incredible handheld results that One-Shot cannot match. I photograph mostly people. Servo AF seems in the newer mirrorless Canon cameras to make micro adjustments while focusing, preventing focus problems caused by either me or my subject swaying slightly backwards and forwards.

With DSLRs I almost always used One-Shot with static subjects. My keeper rate goes down if I do the same with the EOS R or R5. I can tell you that's Servo AF for portraits was the most compelling improvement which led me to go all-in on mirrorless. (A close second would be exposure showing so well through the EVF.)

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Thanks for being so polite with your suggestion. I must say, using One-shot AF is a habit left over from shooting with the 5Dii, 5Diii and then 5Div over many years. With those DSLRs I found Servo AF entirely useless as the limited number of reliable ‘cross-type’ AF points meant I often had to lock focus and then re-compose slightly to get the desired framing. For sure, this is not an issue with mirrorless cameras anymore with their full AF coverage (I have never really had to focus and recompose with the R and R5). I’ve simply continued to use ‘One-Shot’ on my mirrorless cameras as AF accuracy has essentially been perfect with that mode/ technique up to now. I have gone entire fashion shoots of around 1500 images and missed focus only 5 or so times. Having said that, I always shoot with pretty good light levels: multiple 650watt modelling lights for my flashes (all at full power) or 350w LED panels set to full power when working with constant light.

I could certainly see Servo AF helping (with it’s constant adjustments) when conditions are less than ideal lighting wise and if the subject likes to move around a little more mid-shot. I have actually been meaning to try Servo AF with the Eye-AF enabled. My initial tests of Eye-AF were in One-Shot mode and I wasn’t very impressed with the accuracy/consistency. Selecting the AF point myself in One-Shot was always more accurate for me and I just stuck with that ever since.

When I get around to doing more tests under CFL bulb lighting, I will be sure to switch to Servo AF as a point of comparison with One-Shot. Perhaps the constant adjustments of Servo AF would help overcome any interference from ‘flicker’ (if that is even an issue at all?)

Cheers!

pardus said:

Just got my jacket today and stoked that it is a North Face jacket. Was expecting it to be a cheap corporate promo wear but this is actually really nice.

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Cool, I got the jacket for my wife and they gave her a really nice Patagonia Nano Puff. Like you said I was surprised to see it was a good brand and she is really happy with the jacket.

That would be good camera if they remove that silly leg .
Use that puck shape ,put round battery to bottom of puck like mobile phones .
Put viewfinder to hotshoe
touch controls to side of puck.

how about shooting outdoor ?
seems like the ambient light in your room messed up your footage.

ethanz said:

My computer is having a hard time with the 8k playback lol.

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Yikes. I was surprised my computer didn't really act up importing and processing this. A 10 minute video may be a bit different.

Yikes I have been posting 8k and RAW video to YouTube recently.

Surprised to see the "art" designation. I would have thought that's trademarked by Sigma.

That was an interesting read... essentially, they modified the sensor to do the work of reducing aberrations/distortion... thereby reducing the lens stack total element count. That should make for some smaller lenses for sure.

koenkooi said:

RF lenses close down their aperture to one stop above the smallest opening when the camera is off, I wonder if the EF lenses do the same when powering off the camera properly

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No, they are left wide open from both EOS R and DSLRs. If the R is not powered down first, the IS of the EF doesn't park.

OK.

It seems we have drifted some ways away from the original post, which was a (somewhat unsubstantiated) RUMOR. Around this we have gotten some facts, some speculation, and some more rumors. If this is just clickbait it has certainly served its purpose extremely well.

Canon is the 45.4 % gorilla in the camera market place. They are 6.6 percentage points ahead of Sony and Nikon's combined share. It was not specified whether the statistic represented revenue or unit sales. The EOS M system is by far the world's best selling ILC system, starting from scratch 8 1/2 years ago. Speculations about Canon's original plan with the system are likely highly irrelevant today. In the US the M bodies are priced somewhat upmarket, particularly compared with the Rebel cameras. In other parts of the world simpler bodies with lower specs are probably sold cheaper.

Given the above we can safely assume that Canon makes (good) money off the M system. And thus the system is NOT LIKELY to go away anytime soon.

M. D. Vaden of Oregon said:

LOL ... oh, how will one body from Sony affect the Canon juggernaut that dominates the camera sales world.

Probably as much as a nothing burger.

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Again, I’m only talking about one body, the likely R1.

People confuse the terminology. 12 bit vs 13 or 14 is not really compressed! All Canon RAW formats are compressed, though usually lossless. That's what you want: lower file sizes while retaining all the information.

The lower bit depths aren't really compression. That's just not capturing as much information in the first place. Note that this only costs you dynamic range, and once your ISO is at or above 400, you will see no difference between 12-bit (Electronic shutter), 13-bit (12 FPS) and 14-bit (8 FPS or below).

See photons to photos for reference

With the lossy compressed RAW (CRAW) you are giving up something else. But nobody I am aware of was able to visually identify, what that is. But CRAW alone does not have to do anything with the 20 FPS mode.

2020 CIPA shipping data

Total Cameras - 8,886,292
Point & Shoot - 3,578,643
Total SLR & Mirrorless - 5,307,649
SLR - 2,374,569
Mirrorless - 2,933,080

1st year Cameras sells from 8 to 7 digits due to COVID-19
3rd year ILC outsells P&S
1st year MILC outsells SLR

Ts-24mm 3.5 II MIA?
Did the last of the ef 500mm f/1.4L IS II go to bored New Yorkers birding in Central Park?

I recently picked up the C70. Which looks amazing from the few test i've done with it so far. But i have a few questions that hopefully someone here much smarter than i will be able to quickly answer.

I know i need the camera set to Slow & Fast. but how do i get the camera to record at 120fps. It seems like whatever i do the max i can get is 60

Is there a way to setup different profiles on the C70. On my Eos R i have different profiles set up with the custom Modes C1 C2 C3 So i can quickly switch to different settings (like 24fps to 60fps) on the the camera, which helps, especially with my run and gun video work.

Thanks in advance

Now is a great time to rent some gear, and Lensrentals.com has you covered. Use the coupon code FEB2021 at checkout and save 20% on your entire order.
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