Posts

Bert63 · Jul 29, 2020

TomR said:
You're right only one person has reported that the camera overheats.

Unfortunately, it would cost me about $600 Canadian to return this camera if I decided to return it

Hope the camera is everything you expected

Lots of people have reported lots of things but none of them know how that applies to me and how I shoot. I’ll wait and see for myself how I LIKE IT and go from there.

That would be a good reason to cancel in my book - if the unknown is going to cost you bucks by all means.

Me too Tom.

VICYASA · Jul 29, 2020

Canon EOS R price drop: $1399 (USD) in Sept. 2020.
Confirmed

unfocused · Jul 29, 2020

I don’t shoot rock concerts, but I do shoot a lot of college plays and jazz concerts. The 70-200 2.8 is a great lens and is excellent on the R, either the II or the III. Almost the same except for some new coating o the III. If you are in the US I recommend setting an alert on canon price watch as they are frequently available refurbished from Canon.

Stage lighting can be deceptively bright so you might also consider a 90D for more reach.

Hector1970 · Jul 29, 2020

Kit Lens Jockey said:
Any dirt/debris built up on the lens mounts? Specifically, the ends of the ridges on the lens mount that would slot into the mount on the camera. Maybe the 1DX III, being a new camera, has a lens mount that hasn't worn in yet, so it's extra non-tolerant to any debris built up on the lens mounts. I don't have a 1DX III, but I do have an 11-24, and I've never had issues mounting it to my 5D4 or my EF-RF adapter to go on my EOS R.

Thanks I'll have a look. I never had a mounting issue before.

Valvebounce · Jul 29, 2020

Hi Ronald.
What Aussie shooter said reminded me, the EX90 will work as a trigger for optical flashes, and is about the same power as the pop up flash, and cost wise can be had for peanuts!

Cheers, Graham.

Aussie shooter said:
TBH I only ever use the pop up flash to trigger an off camera speedlight so maybe if it is too much to repair just get a wireless trigger and speedlight

ethanz · Jul 29, 2020

Here are some pictures from it, 48mp I believe all were raw. https://www.ethanzentz.com/June-Drone/

SteveC · Jul 29, 2020

Kit Lens Jockey said:
Theoretically, somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but once camera makers develop and implement sensors that read out all at once instead of line by line (called a "global" shutter), there would be no more need for a mechanical shutter at all.

The fundamental problem is being able to read all that data simultaneously then push it out simultaneously, and that would involve millions of wires instead of a couple of dozen.

I could imagine a sensor chip with a buffer behind the pixels, when the "shutter closes" every sensor pixel is instantly copied to the buffer pixel, then it's read out of the buffer line by line. That would still involve millions of wires (pixels to buffer) but those would be in the chip, which is doable.

But such would require two layers of fabrication with the silicon (?) wafer, and I don't know if they can do that yet.

Michael Clark · Jul 29, 2020

unfocused said:
With things looking a little brighter for sports at our small college this fall (limited season and limited venues) I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on the 1Dx III so I could get familiar with it.

It arrived late last week. No real chance yet to shoot action, but today I did shoot some of our student peer mentors who are on campus early.

Ordinarily, I would be using the R with the 25-105 and the 5DIV with the 70-200, but decided to substitute the 1Dx III for the 5D, just to get a few more hours of practice with the body.

My first impression is very positive. One of the things I fell in love with with the R was the touch screen selection of autofocus points using my thumb. It's a feature that I never thought about until I tried it and quickly realized how superior it is to a joystick for selecting autofocus points and composing when shooting. With the 1Dx III I instantly found that the new smart controller offers about 95% of the same benefits with a DSLR.

It used to be very frustrating when I would shoot with both the R and the 5D and have to switch between the touch screen control on one and the joystick on the other. But with the 1Dx III paired with the R, it just was very intuitive and almost seamless to switch back and forth between the bodies.

For the past year, my 1Dx II has pretty much been used exclusively for sports with the R and the 5DIV used for everything else. I feel that now the 5DIV is going to see limited use. It's still better than the R for birds and wildlife and I still like having the extra megapixels over the the 1Dx also for birds and wildlife. But I can see myself using the 1Dx III and the R for most of my work photography.

The biggest downside I see is the strain it's going to put on my neck, shoulders and camera bag having to lug around the 1Dx III plus a gripped R (the poor battery life of the R has made a grip indispensable for me).

Offering the smart controller on any future DSLRs seems like a no-brainer to me and I expect that whatever body Canon offers to merge the 5D and 6D series, it's likely to have the new smart controller.

It's too bad you can't use a cable to plug into an external port on the 1D X Mark III's LP-E19 battery and power the EOS R with it.

privatebydesign · Jul 29, 2020

For most people it is not the best camera. It is good at the very specific thing it is built to do, but that doesn’t fit in with what many photographers need.

Its like saying what is better a $500,000 Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6 or a $500,000 Lamborghini Aventador SV? There is no right answer just the best tool for the job.

So what are your photographic interests, what do you shoot and what do you do with the images, print, publish etc etc.

unfocused · Jul 28, 2020

If you are shooting stills, then any card is going to be plenty fast. Of the two brands I trust, SanDisk and ProGrade, only SanDisk offers a 64GB card, but a ProGrade 128 isn't much more expensive.

At first, ProGrade was offering 120 GB cards that were a little slower and cheaper. I ordered some, but it was the 128 GB version that actually shipped. I consider 128 GB a pretty good compromise for stills -- plenty of storage but not ridiculously expensive.

Video is another matter and I believe elsewhere on this site there is a link to a Canon reference sheet that identifies cards for video. I seem to recall that ProGrade and SanDisk have higher level cards that Canon said were best for 8K. I'm sure someone will share that link.

PerKr · Jul 28, 2020

Good for Sony I guess. Honestly though, I think the consumers moved on.. Back in the film days, having your gear show in the photographer trenches was key. Similarly important though was having "your" photographer's pictures being seen in magazines along with a note on the equipment used for the particular image. Who here remembers reading photography magazines and seeing great pictures with little texts under them saying it was taken with a Nikon F5 or EOS 1V with an 300/400/500 f2.8/f4 at f5.6 and 1/600?

Really, YouTube and Instagram influencers is where you actually need to be now. Social media is where people look for advice on gear, where "your" guys can explain why your gear is the best for what they do and where your gear is showcased the best. Sony's success with E-mount is basically down to their presence on social media while Nikon and Canon were being a bit traditional

SecureGSM · Jul 27, 2020

highdesertmesa said:
Initially I didn't do it to save battery life, I did it out of OCD that the camera was obviously still "running" when I held it to my side between shots. So it's more like turning off the water faucet while you're brushing your teeth – not necessary but feels like the right thing to do

It is not if you are running and gunning with a pair or cameras and use them intermittently for like 9 Hours Long gig. That’s a nightmare scenario.

P.S. a 4-battery grip for R5 anyone? Like make it a man size...

analoggrotto · Jul 27, 2020

shunsai said:
I don't doubt that's true for 4KHQ and other modes, but is there any encoding taking place in 8K RAW?

That's sheer data throughput I guess. the data still needs to be written to a file.

Quirkz · Jul 27, 2020

Act444 said:
Colors - YMMV on this one, since we all have different tastes. But to MY eyes, the R5 (or any of the R cameras for that matter) simply cannot measure up to the 5DS/R's OOC color palette. Like most of Canon's newer (post-2016) cameras, the R5 has the same dull, muted color output - particularly in the green-yellow spectrum.

Interesting - must be a preference thing. I always found the color on my 5d4/R/RP better than my older 5D3. Felt the 5D3 was weirdly, subtly oversaturated on some colours, and less natural.

Click · Jul 27, 2020

Thanks for sharing.

Click · Jul 27, 2020

Thanks for sharing.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jul 27, 2020

I just have the standard adapter. The control ring one seems useful, but I never use the one on my RF 35mm lens, so thats a indication as to how much use I might give it. I am watching for the refurbs to get back in stock.

Bert63 · Jul 27, 2020

TomR said:
they said its perfect for video, nice big pixels, no overheats, best mirrorless camera in the world for rolling shutter and low light

That's about all they could say. $4,000? I guess it's worth that to its target buyer, but you wouldn't know that reading the SAR comments.

privatebydesign · Jul 27, 2020

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Be nice to him, he lives out in the woods behind my house. We put food out for him and his wife. We respect his privacy and don't take unwanted photos. Shadowgraphs, maybe.

It interests me that so many areas have these 'missing' link style mystery residents. I heard about the Florida Skunk Ape for the first time the other week. Unfortunately I think the person telling me was disappointed at my too obvious skepticism, I mean Florida is big but pretty much every inch of it has been developed or farmed and even the Everglades have been changed out of all recognition.

Ozarker · Jul 27, 2020

I know this is an old thread, but here is a compatibility update: About 2 months ago I got the Tamron SP 45mm f/1.8 Di VC and had to run my R with "Peripheral Illumination Correction" disabled for it to work properly. My free Tap-in console finally came today and I updated the firmware of the lens (ver. 2 to ver. 3) and all is good. It all works now. Just letting anyone with a Tamron lens know. Tamron makes the firmware update painless. It only took a few seconds.

Click · Jul 27, 2020

Lovely shots, stevelee.

SecureGSM · Jul 27, 2020

Michael Clark said:
The climate in Bali is far from an arid climate.

yes, it was a bit humid.. not saying it was a very dry day out.

canonmike · Jul 26, 2020

unfocused said:
Nonetheless, I enjoy Fro. He's entertaining and doesn't take himself too seriously, but is still a decent photographer. Doesn't have an ax to grind and his videos usually convey at least some useful information. In sharp contrast to that three blind men guy, who only likes to hear himself pontificate and never has anything worthwhile to say.

Yes, on both counts. Now, hold that thought as we wait for R5's and 6's to get into consumers' hands.

SteveC · Jul 26, 2020

stevelee said:
Yes, my PHP code interpolates an approximation of the equation of time. The file name on the server is “eot.php” as I recall. It gets UTC from the server, adjusts for the longitude of my house, and adjusts for the equation of time at the moment. I think it is generally accurate within a few seconds. So it is a 24-hour sundial, just easier to read more accurately. “Mean solar time” is no fun. Bu5 I don’t need to use it, since I have an app on my phone and Apple Watch that gives current solar time.

Back before I gave up on my lawn mower and hired a yard guy, I took sun time into account when considering when to do yard work. The day we change back to standard time is usually the day here when sun time and clock time get the closest, about six minutes apart. Right now, as I said, it is about an hour and a half.

When I got back from Italy in the fall, after going back and forth between time zones and into standard time, I decided to leave the Roman shades up in my bedroom to help me readjust to EST. There are three large windows facing north with woods not that many feet away, so a glorious view in the fall anyway. I have left them open, and now with nothing scheduled, I find myself operating more or less by the sun more than the clock.

I'm lucky enough to be only a degree of longitude off from the central meridian of my time zone (105 W). So I rarely have to consider that; my local mean solar time is only about 4 minutes off from the clock. But many people even in the United States (let alone China) will be over half an hour ahead of their mean solar time if they look at their wall clock, since time zone boundaries tend to migrate to the wast of the 7.5 degree lines. And of course Alaska is just flat out set an hour later than it should be, even when not doing DST; they basically have built-in DST year round and go to double DST in the summer, at least when looking at the sun's position.

My strategy on my last trip to Europe, where I had to suck up an 8 or 9 hour time difference (Mountain time to Central European and even Turkish time), was to spend five weeks progressively setting my alarm clock 12 minutes earlier every day. That got me gradually on London time. Fortunately I live alone. (The trip was timed so that I got to experience of changing to standard time twice at the end, as it was in October and Europe switches back earlier than we do.)

The people who have it worst? Mission control for any of the Mars rovers. Because those craft are solar powered, they can only operate in day time, and Mars has a 24 1/2 hour day. So every day their shift moves half an hour later (relative to our day). In twelve days, their schedule has completely turned upside down, but only twelve days later it's back to something normal.