Posts

Cory · Dec 24, 2013

My two favorites from this past weekend and the final appearance of my trusty T1i:

Dec 23, 2013 · Dec 23, 2013

1) No idea. Perhaps you'd like to test it and tell us?

An AF lens set to MF also has focus confirm. My guess is it will ignore expansion points, and maybe pick the center of a zone, or just the center point in Zone.

2) My impression is that it uses the magnified view for Live View AF, i.e., a smaller area as you magnify. But I haven't tested it.

mackguyver · Dec 23, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
According to a TDP news post, the full installation disc has been available for download for a few months now.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=4841

Thanks, Neuro. I just rebuilt my PC and while it has an optical drive, I'm too lazy to dig up my CD-ROMs ;D. This is a much easier solution!

RLPhoto · Dec 23, 2013

It's teh portrait lens.

cayenne · Dec 23, 2013

mkabi said:
You sure you want to go for the BMPCC?

Are you good with color correction?

Check out what Dave Dugdale had to say about the BMPCC, its a fair unbiased review:

http://www.learningdslrvideo.com/black-magic-pocket-review/

Well, I'm teaching myself to become decent at color correction and grading. I shoot with my 5D3 in a very neutral style (Marvel's Cine Style), and have to grade everything I shoot...figuring with RAW from the BMPCC it would actually be a bit easier due to the extra range to work within.

I'll give your link a look here shortly!!

Thanks for the reply,

cayenne

mackguyver · Dec 23, 2013

Click said:
Thank you for sharing this link mackguyver.

No problem - just trying to return the favor - I've found tons of great links on this forum

Mimik · Dec 23, 2013

Thanks.

Maybe like this one?

http://www.instructables.com/id/RepairAdjustClean-Canon-17-55mm-f28-Dropped-/step11/Adjust-the-manual-focus-ring-pressure/

Invertalon · Dec 23, 2013

I have had plenty of decentering issues with Canon lenses... It is a pain and I exchange/return them right away. Canon has a very hard time correcting it.

Try another! Chances are the second time around it will be OK ;D I have yet to get two decentered lenses in a row *knock on wood*... Although I wish I did not get one in the first place!

Canon Rumors · Dec 23, 2013

HTML:

<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=15345"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=15345">Tweet</a></div>
<span style="line-height: 1.5em;">The rubber of the viewfinder of some units of the Canon PowerShot SX50 HS compact digital camera may change color (turn white) after a short period of time. Customer support for this phenomenon is described below.</span></p>
<p>We take great pride in the quality and performance of our products. We offer our sincerest apologies to any customers who may be inconvenienced.</p>
<p><b>Phenomenon</b>

The rubber section of the viewfinder of some PowerShot SX50 HS digital compact cameras produced in certain lots from September 1 through November 15, 2013 may turn white after a short period of time. We have determined after inquiry with the rubber manufacturer and internal analysis that the white substance is zinc bis (N,N’- dimethyldithiocarbamate).</p>
<p>Zinc bis is not used in the production of this product. The reason for the depositing of this material was the use of an improper rubber accelerator by the manufacturer of the rubber viewfinder. As a result the rubber section of the viewfinder may turn white due to a chemical reaction with the rubber accelerator and other substances. High temperature and high humidity may contribute to this condition. Zinc bis (N,N’- dimethyldithiocarbamate), which becomes deposited on the rubber surface, is created as a result of this chemical reaction.</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Viewfinder.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-15346" alt="Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Viewfinder" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Viewfinder-575x284.jpg" width="575" height="284" /></a></p>
<div></div>
<p><b>Affected products</b>

Only a small fraction of the PowerShot SX50 HS compact digital cameras – the ones containing the improper rubber accelerator – are affected by this phenomenon.</p>
<p>This phenomenon may occur in cameras of which the first and second digits from the left in the serial number are “69”, “70”, or “71” and the sixth digit of the serial number is “1”.

(Example serial numbers of cameras that may be affected: “69xxx1xxxxxx”, “70xxx1xxxxxx”, “71xxx1xxxxxx” (‘x’ can be any number))</p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Safety-Recall-Serials.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-15347" alt="Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Safety-Recall-Serials" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Canon-PowerShot-SX50-HS-Digital-Camera-Safety-Recall-Serials-575x215.jpg" width="575" height="215" /></a></p>
<div></div>
<p><b>Caution on use</b>

The amount of zinc bis (N,N’-dimethyldithiocarbamate) deposited on the affected units is minimal. However, depending on one’s health and physical condition, in rare cases it is possible for zinc bis to cause allergic reactions, such as a rash, when it comes in contact with the skin of sensitive persons. In addition, if the eyes make contact with the substance, symptoms such as red eyes may develop.</p>
<p>As a precautionary measure, thoroughly wash your hands and rinse your eyes with water if they have come into contact with the rubber part of a viewfinder that has turned white. If any medical symptoms develop, please consult your physician immediately.</p>
<p><b>Support</b>

If the camera meets the serial number criteria listed above, the product will be inspected and repaired free of charge. If you own one of the affected cameras please contact our Customer Support Center.</p>
<p>This information is for residents of the United States and Puerto Rico only. If you do not reside in the USA or Puerto Rico, please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region.</p>
<p>Thank you,

Customer Support Operations

Canon U.S.A., Inc</p>

WPJ · Dec 23, 2013

old_york said:
Not quite a vid clip....
But certainly includes a shot from one of the other photogs present, that Richard then used to challenge the player about it.

http://bleacherreport.com/articles/1897543-jake-livermore-broke-expensive-camera-celebrating-hull-goal-pays-back-owner

I googled it and found the same article thanks...

Cory · Dec 23, 2013

If you like, here's my "running" photoshoot from yesterday with my T1i. There was, for the first time, some "focus" struggling so I think I'm going to be one of the most indecisive people of all time and revisit the 70D:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24289470@N04/sets/72157638939187183/

bobby samat · Dec 22, 2013

i see the miscommunication. when i said the original 70-200 2.8, i meant the version that came out before there was even ans IS model available.

privatebydesign · Dec 22, 2013

All looks are entirely personal and liking or disliking a specific image posted is irrelevant. If the photographer and or subject/client like it then it is all good with me.

I recently did some testing in a similar situation, those that are used to my posts know the subject! But rather than deal with the difficult contrast and hard shadows I went the other way, shot into the light and got images like this. Just another way of seeing the same kind of thing.

Matthew Seed, a UK based photographer is my current favourite equine image maker. He has dramatic lighting but has an environmental feel too, to my eye much more compelling than a black background. http://www.horse-photographer.co.uk/gallery/

Oh, Von Wong did a beautiful set with the UK Para-Olympian, Natasha Baker. http://www.vonwong.com/blog/natasha-baker-olympic-paradressage-rider/

mrsfotografie · Dec 22, 2013

BL said:
Well, it is what it is i suppose!

I'm going to see if I can grab the Ec-S screen locally to test it a bit myself. I did a bit more searching and found an FM poster say it was as simple as dialing -1/3 exp comp with this screen and calling it a day.

If all else fails, my 5Dc with Ee-S screen will be happy to be putting off early retirement haha

Cool, please let us know how it works out

JonB8305 · Dec 22, 2013

Re: Free Next Day Shipping from B&H Photo

I probably really shouldn't have bought the 70-200 but I couldn't pass up on $1799.

Hjalmarg1 · Dec 21, 2013

sagittariansrock said:
Hi all
I am looking to sell my 7D, 17-55 IS and 10-22 since I moved to FF. I had an idea of what to ask for, but that was before all the price cuts on APS-C lenses and talks of 7DII, etc. I only sell my gear on Craigslist (not a big fan of packing and shipping), and I would like to get an estimate of how much to ask for. If you can give me some advice based on recent buying/selling experience or just general breadth of knowledge, that will be greatly appreciated.
All my gear is in perfect condition functionally and cosmetically, and AFMA-d with FoCal. The 7D is refurbished, bought 2 years ago and carries a 3-year MACK diamond warranty. The lenses were bought new, also 2 years ago, and come with Canon hoods and I have the box for the 10-22.
I have seen people selling well-worn 7Ds for $ 500 as well as some trying (unsuccessfully) to sell for $ 1100. Can you advise what would be a fair price that'll help me get these off my back quickly. Thanks!
Oh, and I am located in Houston, USA.

[P.S. Please note that I am not trying to use this as an advertisement. As I mentioned, I sell only on Craigslist]

Hi, I owned the Canon 10-22mm and sold it for $500 recently and bought it the 17-55mm f2.8 for $650 instead. Currently, you can get some great deals on the 7D for as low as $950-1,000 new so, you have to go below if you want to sell it.

Hjalmarg1 · Dec 21, 2013

Don't wait ans waste your time. If you want a Canon 70D buy it and enjoy, 70D is an excellent option for entusiasts, as well as the full frame 6D, but with the 6D you will not use your EF-S lenses and you'll need an external flash, since it doesn't have built-in flash.

nc0b · Dec 21, 2013

It depends what you are shooting, but I finally pulled the trigger on the 400mm f/5.6 a year ago. I already had the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II, and for BIF I tried the 1.4X and 2X Version III TCs. For general wildlife I still use the the TCs to have IS. The IQ loss with the 2X is modest, but the focus speed by design is drastically slower than the 400mm prime. With the 70-200 & 2X TC combination, if I lost focus on a bird in flight, the focus would get lost on the sky and never recapture it. With the 400mm, particularly set on 8.5m focus limit, the prime can reacquire focus quickly. Even though I have read many comments discounting the auto-focus capability of the 6D, I have been very pleased with the 6D / 400mm f/5.6 combination. I crank the ISO up as needed to keep the shutter speed at 1/1000, shooting everything handheld. The 400mm 6D combo is quite light weight, well balanced and a joy to use. With the newer Canon bodies, I don't find noise an issue, and I don't need to spend a fortune on a big white that too heavy to hand hold for any length of time.

nc0b · Dec 21, 2013

After looking at sample pictures in reviews, and being very unhappy with my non-L Canon wide angles, I chose a Zeiss. While the 21mm is better and faster than the 18mm f/3.5, I went for the slower, cheaper, smaller, lighter and wider 18mm. I couldn't be happier with my purchase for $999. I generally zone focus it, and often shoot it at f/8. It does accept normal filters, is as wide as I need on my FF bodies, and is a nice 28mm on my crop bodies. The build quality is stunning, and the focus smooth as glass. It also has full EXIF data, and the electronic focus aid helps to some extent with any Canon body, though with some hysteresis. If the lack of autofocus doesn't freak you out, give Zeiss a look for your UWA needs.

bholliman · Dec 21, 2013

RustyTheGeek said:
Thanks bholliman! I'd love to hear your thoughts on the SL1 after you've used it. I considered the M with an adapter. But the M and the adapter is about the same weight as the SL1 and probably close to the same size. And I was concerned that it would be awkward to use since it's sort of a live view type of thing instead of a viewfinder thing that I can tuck in close and hold still, etc. It's not exactly cheap for what it is, esp after adding the cost of the adapter. But hey, if it's a super item for the purpose, one never knows!!...

Yes, with the adapter the M isn't much smaller than the SL1. I'm more and more just using the M with just the 22/2 lens since it's small and light that way. If I'm going to attach my 24-70 2.8 II, I might as well use my 6D.

petach · Dec 21, 2013

took this with a tripod mounted 6D with 70-300L and used remote wire. Processed in LR5 and Nik Silver Efex for the gritty look

Selfie !!!! by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

nc0b · Dec 21, 2013

I have both the 70-200 2.8 II and the 70-200 f/4 version. If I am shooting an indoor event, the f/2.8 is my choice every time. If I am just walking around a lake at a park, shooting people, dogs and birds, then the f/4.0 is just fine. The f/2.8 wide open is sharper than the f/4 wide open, so I tend to shoot the f/4 at 5.6. Both take the 1.4X TC III when needed. While I have 4 bodies, if I am shooting BIF, my best results have been with my 6D and 400mm f/5.6. I don't know why some people complain about the 6D and focus.

Ruined · Dec 21, 2013

This is normal, yes.

Quasimodo · Dec 21, 2013

If it is only for protection, I have used Kenko Pro 1 digital, and I think they are great. I have tried to shoot with and without to see if there are any quality differences, but I have not found any.

I am actually waiting for one now, as I on a trip to Oxford a couple of weeks ago killed my first filter ever

I was putting my bag down carefully at the airport, and somehow the camera had turned in the bag, so the lens (Sigma 35/1.4 Art) was facing down. I heard a crack sound. Opening it right away, I saw that I had broken it, but the glass on the filterwas intact (thus not scraping the front element) but had large cracks, like a V. I am really happy that I used protective glass, and will continue to do so

Quasimodo · Dec 21, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Quasimodo said:

As much as I think this is a great question, I find it hard to believe that this has not been explored before as a comparison, lens by lens.

Click to expand...

Many such comparisons are done, but often they're done using test charts, e.g., the ISO 12233 crops on TDP. Typically, those charts are shot filling the frame (there are markings at the edges for various aspect ratios to facilitate that), and as jrista points out, that fails to recapitulate the situation where you're focal length limited.

I did some testing after getting my 600 II. I have several sizes of the ISO 12233-type chart that TDP uses, and I took the smallest one (4x6", not too different from a small bird), framed it a bit loosely with the narrowest AoV - 7D + 600 II + 2xIII. I then shot from the same distance with the 1.4x, bare lens, and the same combos with the 1D X, and cropped them all to the FoV of the 7D/2x/600 combo. Then I sold the 7D...

I may repeat with the EOS M, since it seems sharper than the 7D.

Thank you.

I have tried to look at the ISO lens comparison charts on the TDP, but I don´t really understand what I am seeing there. In Don Haines way of posting it makes perfectly sense from the get go. In that way I can make up my own mind about the differences in sharpness, contrast, and overall IQ. I think it would be swell if someone who has access and time would make a comparison page with all the combos of TC vs. Lenses, vs. sensors

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