i guess thats a rumor or why did you post it here?

Yes. For equivalent framing, you're further away on APS-C meaning the DoF is deeper. Basically, the 'crop factor' applies to DoF, too.

http://www.aputure.com/en/product/v_control_usb.php

Just picked up this electonic remote to help me with my focus pull while shooting video / volleyball games. It has 4 presets, which should work well for where on the court I typically shoot (service, digs, sets and kills). I have tested it on my 5d3 (1dIV and 7d) with a variety of lenses, and while when it works, it works well, but occasionally freezes and needs to be turned on / off to reset.

Anyone else try this...??

After all this talk about insurance, and, especially after buying the Zeiss 15mm, I went and found an insurance company (here in Australia) that has a reasonable cover. For those interested, AON are the crowd in Australia that specialise in camera gear insurance, so I discovered

That looks like several of my shots done at much shorter focal length...of course I was at a closer distance.

Thanks Guys Going Tomorrow

I was in both upper and lower Antelope slot canyons of Page, AZ in October (I guess these are the slot canyons you refer too).
In upper, I brought both my 5D3 with 17-40L and my 50D with 24-70L II. I didn't use the 50D, so I brought only the 5D3+17-40L in lower.

From your gear, I'd choose the 16-35L and bring the tripod - especially in lower Antelope. They will give you a 2 hours "ticket" for you to explore the canyon on your own. Consider bringing a remote trigger also for long exposures.

Research how much sun there is at what time of the day in August - the canyons get a very dull brownish look without sunlight. Upper is kinda A-shaped (narrow in the top, wide in the bottom), whereas the lower is V-shaped. This suggests that you should pick Upper during midday, and Lower in either morning/afternoon.

Since you're in Page, AZ, anyway, I'd suggest you consider going to the "Horseshoe Bend" of the Colorado river on the other side of the town too. This is a sunrise adventure - bring a flashlight.

I lived in Japan for a total of 3 years for work (2 sperate periods).
I have a bunch of photos on my flickr that will give you an idea of a lot of different areas, some often not commonly travelled to by tourists. Most of them should be labelled or tagged with the location (no GPS though)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidcampbellphotography/collections/72157608783712689/
I would highly reccomend using www.japan-guide.com for research, there is a lot of good content on there.

During september, the autumn leaves will be turning in higher latitudes and higher altitudes. Autumn is my favourite time in Japan. This website, as you get closer to the trip will give you an idea of the autumn leave progression. http://kouyou.yahoo.co.jp/ it is in Japanese but you should be able to put it through google translate.

If you are into Landscapes, Kamikochi in Nagano Prefecture has a lot to offer.

Nearby is Matsumoto that has a stunning original castle. This town also has a woodblock print museum where you can buy nice original process hand made wood block prints/replicas of more famous works.
Also Nearby is Takayama, Shirakawago which have traditional grass hut villages.
Kanazawa has a stunning garden, nice geisha/gold leaf district as well as a cool "ninja temple" called ninja dera. Basically a temple with many levels and hidden doors etc.

I also reccomend the following places Nikko, Koya san, Nara, Kyoto, Kamakura, Hiroshima/Miyajima, Sendai/Matsushima.

In Kyoto, there is an un written rule that you cant use tripods in/around the temples. I used to get told off a lot as many places dont have signs.

Good luck with the trip planning.

Wait... so this firmware I bought on the Internet to upgrade my Macbook to 64GB of memory, a 2TB solid state drive, and 4k retina display might not work?!?! LIES!

;-)

Thanks

The 100L will do no better than the 70-200LII for portraiture. A fast prime like 85L II or 135L will give a different look than either.

Got a new 1D-X. Formatted SanDisk 32 Gb cards in camera, updated EOS Utility from software CD to ver 2.12.3.1. Was able to connect camera via Canon USB cable to Win XP SP3 (32-bit) and set camera preferences and run camera tethered in EOS Utility. BUT, when I go to download images, after just 1 - 2 images I get a "Connection Lost" message, and EOS Utility hangs while saving file. My 50D and 1D4 cameras have no problems transferring files. Because I can set camera prefs and run tethered, I do not suspect the camera's USB port, the cable, or the PC. Swapped the primary CF card to 1D4 -- no problem recording or transferring images, so I don't suspect the card. Tech support at BH advises to put CF card in reader rather than use USB.

Anyone else with this problem? Any suggestions? The new EOS Utility dropped support for my 5D, so I'm using a card reader for that.

I never see tourists here with big white lenses or with cameras on straps. A 24-105 should be enough - everyone should have one for travel.

I'm not gonna get too excited for this until we see actual photos and MTF charts.

And it being for crop bodies only is a huge disappointment. I get that FF lenses are more difficult to engineer, and this is a good start... but I would have loved for this to be a FF lens.

But regardless, kudos to Sigma. They're clearly stepping their game up of late.

No, unfortunately I did not discuss customs...the shipping price put me in shock !

dickgrafixstop said:

No digital camera is an investment. They are all rapidly depreciating expenses. Determine if you really can't do
what you like with your current gear and if the answer is "no", then go buy something that will. Whatever you choose, there will be a better choice in six months.

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he does not see that camera as investment... not as an investment that grows.
but he wants to spend/invest his money for the right stuff.

as most people do who work for their money.


so it´s absolutely fine to aks if there will be a better option in the "near" future.

eml58 said:

TrumpetPower! said:

eml58 said:

When I'm shooting Safari in particular where you need this particular range 200-560, this Lens saves me having to carry 4 current Lenses 200f/2, 300f/2.8, 400f/2.8 & 600f/4

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Well, I've never been on safari, so I'll certainly defer to your experience. But I personally don't see using all four of the lenses you list...I'd go with just the 200 and the 400 and the 1.4x TC. I'd have two bodies regardless; might as well have a lens attached to each. And I'd like to think that either I or my guide would have enough experience (or time) to know which to have ready. And to get into an optimal position for whichever lens was best. I also don't think I'd use the TC very much, except in slow-paced, deliberative settings...there's an advantage to using a TC, yes, but not a huge one.

So, that again brings us to the matter of whether the 200 and the 400 plus a 1.4x TC beats a slower all-in-one design. For convenience, maybe...but I'd still want the redundancy, which kinda does away with the convenience....

Cheers,

b&

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Which I guess is part of why Canon will make the Lens, some will use it, some will find it less than useful, but I'm reasonably sure getting this Lens in the first 6 months of release will be next to impossible.

When shooting something like Cheetahs or Leopards, you don't often have the time to consider attaching a Converter, plus on Safari there's the very real issue of dust getting into the Camera anytime you change a Lens, so the built in Converter would be a plus for me, on a Range of lenses to take with you ?? I travel from Singapore to Africa/Antarctica, when I get there I want to ensure I have as many scenarios covered as possible, better to have the Lens & not need it, than need it & not have it, Singapore's a long way from Botswana or South Georgia & excess luggage costs are not a factor when you travel with Long Whites.

I always shoot with at least 3 Bodies on three different lens set ups, 1Dx + 300f/2.8, 1Dx + 400f/2.8, 5DMK3 + 70-200 or 600f/4.

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Correct...!!

i'd be pretty surprised if it is

Albi86 said:

Malte_P said:

excuse my ignorance.... but why all the world on the net is talking about this lens to be equal to a f2.7 (f2.9) FF lens?

f1.8 is f1.8.... ?

here too:

dr croubie said:

So it's 18-35 f/1.8 for APS-C, making at a FF-equivalent of 29-56 f/2.9

Click to expand...

i mean when i put a 50mm f1.8 on FF or APS-C it´s an f1.8 lens.

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In terms of DoF

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then they have to write that. :
because DOF is not everything.

in terms of speed it´s an f1.8 lens.

AmbientLight said:

@Deva:
I generally agree with your comment regarding tripods, but for night time photography a tripod may come in quite handy, especially if used extensively for night time exposures.

If there is no opportunity for night time photography, then a tripod would indeed be a waste of space and effort, but things look differently, if there are lots of opportunities. Not everyone will bring in a 1D-X and f1.4 and f1.2 lenses for night time photography and there are also limits to the usefulness of shallow depth of field in those circumstances.

I myself have often enjoyed the opportunity of loaning a tripod locally. This is a much better option than bringing your own.

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You may enjoy reading Ken Rockwell's view on the need (or not) for tripods with modern digital cameras: www.kenrockwell.com/tech/digital-killed-my-tripod.htm

Thanks for the input. I really liked the picture of the pelican and the water. If only I could afford the beast... Well, may be one day... One can dream...

ahsanford said:

Here's the data you want, then:

Primes: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/06/the-other-canon-primes-why-did-they-do-that

Basic finding: 24L II @ F/2.8 > 28 IS @ 2.8 (just barely) > 24 IS @ 2.8
To be fair, all of these are considerably sharper compared to the old flagship 24-70L I.

Zooms: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/01/canon-24-70-f4-is-resolution-tests
Also: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/09/canon-24-70-f2-8-ii-resolution-tests

Basic finding: @24mm, the new 24-70L II truly does stack up against Canon's primes, beating the 24L II @ 2.8
in center and border but just barely losing in the corners. But it's very expensive, and despite improvements
in weight, it's still not a tiny thing to carry around.

Hope that helps. I have to make the statement that resolution is but one of a great many variables in buying a lens, but I would imagine that you know that given your years of shooting. I love the new IS primes as they are small and light, inconspicuous / unassuming (great for street), use a very common filter diameter, are internal focusing, and have the latest focusing tech -- all being upsides in my book.

- A

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+1 on the first link. Short quote OP may find useful:

"Like most newly designed lenses, the strength of these new versions appears to be in the corners. You can tell by the average resolution numbers that the new lenses are doing better in the edges and corners than the older ones (I consider the Canon 24mm f/1.4 a new lens). One of the ways they accomplished that, though, appears to be by allowing more distortion (correcting distortion and maintaining sharpness are sometimes a trade-off in wide-angle lens design). The table below shows the amount of barrel distortion in several lenses.

Barrel Distortion Percentage
Canon 24mm f/1.4L II 1.00%
Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L @ 24mm 0.75%
Canon 28mm f/1.8 1.50%
Canon 24mm f/2.8 IS USM 2.10%
Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS USM 1.55%"

Pick up a T2i/550D for around $400 and a tokina 12-24 for $350 on ebay. It will round out your kit nicely.

Sell it and get a 6D, I'm simply amazed with how much better it is than the 18mp crop's.

RGF said:

Mostly agree but now Canon has requires 82mm filter on several lens (16-35 II and 24-70II) they may be the new stanndard size. Step up rings are cheap.

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Thanks, I hadn't really noticed this trend before. A quick check shows Sigma is also using an 82mm filter thread on some of their lenses.