Acceptable AFMA difference for zoom between W and T ends?

I personally would be ok with a range of 40 if indeed the optimal AFMA settings were -20 and + 20 for W/T. (This assumes that the AFMA point changes in a linear fashion throughout the zoom range.

Also, what kind of shooting do you do? If you primarily shoot landscapes (like me) then then it would be less important to have a "perfect lens in regards to AFMA" as the smaller apertures of f8 or f11 (And manual focus much of the time) and the greater distance to subject will render AFMA settings irrelevant.

If you shoot a lot of subjects near the min focus distance with wide apertures then it would be far more critical.

+/- 5 is really not a big deal IMO. I would keep the lens which has the higher IQ value.
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Any reason to choose a 7D over a 70D?

sb in ak said:
7D for the mag body and overall build, joystick, weather sealing.

i was disappointed when the 70d was announced and did not have the magnesium body. it has a metal core with a polycarbonate shell i think. that doesn't sound as good but after using it for a few months i think it makes no difference. i use some big heavy lenses and was worried that the body would flex under the strain or something. i have not had any problems and i use it in all sorts of conditions. it has gaskets and seals. i have never heard of one breaking in half or anything like that. they make motorcycle helmets and all sorts of things out of polycarbonate and composite materials.

p.s the 7d is bigger and i wish the 70d was the same size for using with the big lenses but for normal size lenses the 70d feels perfect
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Canon Dual-Scale Column-Parallel ADC Patent

TheSuede said:
The patent is old and probably conceptually invalid due to prior-art. And I'm pretty surprised about the confusion about what it does, as it's fairly straight-forward and easy to read.

What Canon patented here is a specific implementation, not a method, of a two-stage pre-selection of AD reference voltage.

As the signal is presented to the AD section, the absolute voltage is first presented to a comparator circuit. In the "determination period" the comparator sets the AD ramp signal to either a high (fast) reference ramp, or a low (slow) reference ramp.

If the signal is (was) lower than the comparator set point, then the AD works with a slower ramp and after that it scales the result down numerically by a factor of [high ramp] / [low ramp]. This enables a "slower" readout of weak signals, something which offsets the crappy (noisy) AD converters base level noise for low-level signals. Signals stronger than the comparator set point will be digitized with lower precision, but in strong signals that inaccuracy is totally dominated by photon shot noise.

If you use higher quality AD converters or a slower bitrate conversion this two stage setup is not necessary. Often slower reads are implemented by higher parallelism, using more AD converters per image. This is what Sony's Exmor, or indeed any other of the five big one's on-sensor AD conversions. They use the "slow ramp" for all pixels, all the time, anyway.

Thanks for the explanation! Basically what it sounded like, but I couldn't figure out the exact mechanism by which they reduced noise. Slower readout for lower signals makes total sense. Sorry, I was reading a rather poor translation from japanese...god awful ass-backwards sentences and funky wording.
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How can the Cost of EF-M 18-55mm so much difference ?

neuroanatomist said:
The BuyDig one comes in retail packaging, the one on Amazon (which is sold by a third party seller) is a 'white box' lens that was split from an EOS M kit.

Happy Holiday to you, Thanks Dear Teacher Mr. neuroanatomist.
Wow, That are Good Market Way to cut the cost for consumer like us.
Have a good Evening, sir.
Surapon
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Extender EF 2x iii with EF 300 f2.8L IS ii

mackguyver said:
I understand and don't hesitate to use f/5.6 if needed - you can always sharpen a bit more in post. As for a recommended maximum distance, I'm not aware of any limitations of the lens or lens+extender combo. What you may experience is environmental issues softening the image - haze, humidity, heat, etc. These can all degrade images with (super) telephoto lenses. Where I live, it is very hot & humid most of the year, and all of the shots I've tried at 100m+ are all blurred & wavy due to the "mirage effect" of the heat. In cold, clear conditions, you should be able to shoot at fairly extended distances without any issues, though.

Thanks again Mackguyver !
Atmospheric conditions are factually good explanations.

Prior to this answer, I anyway questioned Canon France. I wait for their answer and will keep the forum informed.
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Sigma 35/1.4 or ...

Sounds reasonable. I used fast 24 and 35mm primes when I used a APS-C. I then added a 50 when I moved to FF.

I guess the question is whether or not you'd be OK with the S18-35 replacing the Tamron 17-50. That would be swapping one crop lens for another. Then you'd have the 18-35/50/70-200. It would require a bit more lens swapping but it would give you enhanced DOF control over the 18-35 range.
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First shots with 6D:)

Got my first camera this week:) (6D) Been testing out my 50mm 1.4 and 24-105mm kit lens. I feel like I'd be better off with primes than a zoom, may end up selling/switching the zoom to an 35mm and 85mm. Love the 50mm tho, took a few pics with it in some lower light fun at a friends house:) The zoom couldn't hang but got some good shots with the 50…or what I think look like good shots. Lemme know what you think.

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Why Wedding Photographers’ Prices are “Wack”?

alexanderferdinand said:
Another observation: as strange it may sound: if you take less, youre work is less appriciated.

This. Psychologically speaking, there's a natural assumption that quality costs, and although some folks may appreciate finding the exception to that rule, most people will assume that the higher-priced shop will do the best work. Therefore, it probably makes sense to advertise at a slightly more expensive price than average for your area, but not so much more expensive that people don't bother to contact you. Then give a discount. That way, they go into it thinking not that they got an inexpensive photographer, but rather that they got a great deal on a great one.
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Suggestions for standard vid settings on Mark III?

Eh said:
...I was told it doesn't autofocus in video...

The 5D3 will autofocus in video, both before and while rolling. However this is single-shot AF, not continuous AF and you must trigger this by pressing the AF-ON button. That single-shot AF can be either contrast detect or phase detect (quick mode, if not rolling).

If done while rolling video, a slight brightness glitch will be recorded, which you'll either have to accept or edit out.

For casual hand-held video, image stabilization is vital. I would strongly suggest you use a 24-105 f/4 or similar lens which gives IS plus a decent zoom range.

You can put the camera in programmed auto and just shoot video. However the shutter speed will not be maintained at 2x the frame rate (1/60th for 30 fps). This may cause strobing effects for moving subjects under some conditions. http://tylerginter.tumblr.com/post/11480534977/180-degree-shutter-learn-it-live-it-love-it

Also in bright conditions the aperture will stop down, so you lose the cinematic shallow depth of field. Maintaining a wide aperture *and* 1/60th shutter speed generally requires a variable ND filter for outdoors. However this is yet another manual item you'd have to control. For pro video work we always shoot fully manual (except sometimes auto ISO), check exposure using zebras and focus using color peaking on an EVF. However that's too much hassle for a vacation video.

You'll have the 5D3 with you, and likely you don't want to take a separate camcorder, and want something better than a cell phone video. Just using full auto will at least get some footage. Make sure you take extra batteries because they are consumed much faster in video mode.

As already stated the build-in mic is limited, even a less expensive hot shoe mic would be better. Using IPB (not All-I) at 1080p/30 or 1080p/25 is probably best. You will likely be displaying it on a 30 or 25 fps viewing device.

I suggest you shoot some test material in various conditions beforehand to get accustomed to how it works.
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Canon EOS-A1 with Hybrid EVF? [CR1]

jrista said:
mkabi said:
jrista said:
mkabi said:
jrista said:
mkabi said:
Lawliet said:
mkabi said:
What if in the future, they produce that prototype camera that is able to shoot 24, 30, 60 and/or 120fps, and its 100MP with Native ISOs of 1600?

That camera would require sensor cells about 16times of the current ones. At the same time you have about 4 times the cells. I.e. each side is sqrt(16)*sqrt(4)=8 times as long, we're talking about a sensor the size of a large format film/plates and lenses large enough to cover it. To have a real light collecting advantage said lenses would have to be faster then the current ones, while DOF gets thin as a razorblade. They used f/64 for a reason. There might be practical problems with that.
NB: The QE of current silicon doesn't allow for much higher sensitivity as we're already close to counting single photons. Unless we're getting more photons we're de facto stuck.

So you're saying its a pipe dream? Like the flying car...
But what about that guy that figured out how to slow it down to the point of taking pictures of photons... was it 1,000,000 fps?

You do realize that "taking pictures of photons" isn't really what the femtocamera does, right? It actually takes millions of frames through a microscopic slit, basically time-slicing the movement of millions of separate pulses of light. It can't actually record the motion of light waves in a single "frame"...it has to take hundreds of millions to billions of frames, which are then processed via very specialized software, in order to make an actual video clip. The device is rather large, bulky, power hungry, and is unlikely to ever look anything like a normal camera. I suspect it will eventually be shrunk in size, and probably packaged into scientific grade devices where such high speed "photography" could be immensely useful for scientific purposes. But there isn't going to be a million fps digital camera capable of actually taking anything that even remotely resembles a "picture" one millionth of a second long on the market any time soon... :P ::)

What would I do with a million fps camera? Nothing.
But I'm talking about the possibility that some day there will be a camera both stills and motion based that we won't care that it does both.

The needs of motion based photography are different than the needs of stills based photography. You can always have a better stills camera if you focus on making a better stills camera. Just because you can capture a thousand frames per second at high resolution doesn't mean that any one of those "frames" will be acceptable as a still photograph.

Sure, we can have both, but you can have better of each if you dedicate research to both independently.

I beg to differ...
Have you heard of the saying that it takes 10,000 pictures to get 1 good shot?

I'm sure that they are independently researched, but they come together so well...

How many of us complain that our cell phones can play music, surf the net and host a bunch of applications?
How many of us complain that a phone should be a phone and all the others should be separate?

Why is it that you hate video so much? Do you not watch any movies, home made and otherwise?
People here in this forum say that if they want video, they would get a camcorder or a video camera....
So if you go on vacation, you would rather carry 2 different bodies and shoot stills with one and video with another?

Also, how many camcorders allow us to change lenses? As I said before, video is in every way like stills... I want wide angle, medium and close ups, even macro shots. I want shallow depth of field, creamy bokeh in my video. Can a regular camcorder provide that for me?

They say that the AA filter is giving them a softer image, so give me a shot that you are proud of... and tell me why the AA filter got in the way of your shot.

Well, first off, I disagree that it takes 10,000 photos to get 1 good one. I would say the ratio is more along the lines of 100 to 1 for an average photographer, and considerably less than that for a skilled photographer. That argument generally implies that the photographer doesn't matter, and that if you capture enough frames, a good photo will happen by chance. Possibly, but that is most certainly NOT what having a good stills camera is all about.

The opposite, actually. A good stills photography camera is all about making it easier to get a good shot EVERY time, not once every ten thousand shots! I could probably rest my argument on that alone...but...

Cell phones are not artists tools (not by design.) By design, a cell phone, or as they are more appropriately called these days smartphones and phablets, are multipurpose devices. Of course we don't complain that they can do a lot of things...that is what they are designed to do. They aren't meant to be the best still photography camera money can buy, nor will they ever be. They are meant to be general purpose devices that allow you to augment their functionality in a wide variety of ways via apps so you can COMPUTE ON THE RUN. Sorry, but I don't see any analogy between a smartphone and a camera. One is designed for computing, the other is designed for art.

Regarding me "hating" video, don't put words in my mouth! I really dislike that! I have in no way said I hate video! On the contrary, I would love to make videos of the nature I photograph. It is just impractical to try and do both stills photography and cinematography at the same time, and do both well. As I said before, the two have different core goals, and therefor need equipment tuned for different purposes. I mean, I CAN take photographs with my Lumia 920, and they are pretty nice...but they are always lacking, even when I put in all the effort I have into making them as good as possible. Sure, my Lumia 920 can take video as well, but movies aren't about video...movies are about storytelling, and using the facets of optics to portray that story in a beautiful way. I WANT to do video...but to achieve the kind of storytelling through motion picture that I want, I need to dedicate time and equipment to it. To that end, if/when I get into it, I'll buy a camera actually designed for cinematography.

As for vacation...I wouldn't bring along high end equipment. I'd bring along something like an EOS-M instead. Vacations aren't professional photography or cinematography outings, they are vacations...time to spend with the family, sightsee but not necessarily spend hours photographing each sight, etc. I could take family videos and decent photography with that one tiny little camera, and still have the option to change lenses for different needs. But the needs of a vacation are radically different from the needs I have for my photography, or the needs I would have if I truly wanted to put together a quality movie of the natural world I photograph. I would indeed lug along both separate stills and cinema cameras if I intended to do both, however I'd keep such trips separate from "vacations."

To be quite frank, I feel, as a photographer, that my explicit needs HAVE been glossed over by Canon in some ways. I feel as though if they dedicated some more effort to making a better stills camera, they would, and it would be on the market faster. The simple fact of the matter is I KNOW they are sharing resources, developing some stills technology but even more cinematography technology, and that as a stills photographer, I'm not getting as much from Canon as I used to. Your lofty vision of video cameras that can be ideal for both stills photography and cinematography, assuming it is possible, is a VERY LONG, LONG way off. Decade or two at least. Sorry. but I'm not willing to wait that long for the mere possibility that something like a 10,000fps "camera" that can produce video or stills, might eventually appear.

Sorry, but there could be immediate value to Canon investing a few more resources into stills specific photography research, the results of which could be seen soon, rather than decades down the road. I don't hate video, but I would rather it not be the primary focus of research for stills photography devices. I would rather we not have this endless march towards hybrid devices. I think Canon could produce both better stills cameras AND better cinema cameras by dedicating research teams to both, keeping the two separate. The Cinema EOS line, while not a bad start, still lags far behind the competition, just like their stills cameras are. Companies like Red are already pushing 20 stops of dynamic range...Cinema EOS is still stuck at less than 12. They have to deal with extra crap to blend the two technologies together, and I think that is sapping energy from both as individual technologies.

Lets agree to disagree, because I don't want to take every line and create a counter argument to it.
Upvote 0

Darkening OVF without power

Don Haines said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
neuroanatomist said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
you must turn the camera power on.

Actually, you don't – the VF is bright as long as the battery is installed, even with the camera powered off. Which I suppose means that 'off' really isn't, which has implications for power drain while a camera with a transmissive LCD is sitting unused.

You are right, I tried it with my 5D MK III. I seem to recall my 7D going dark when powered down, but its sold now.
Don't you guys have anything better to do with your time than pop batteries in and out of a camera to see if the VF darkens?

BTW, it makes no difference on a 60D.....
Nope, I have my camera right here by my computer, it took maybe 10 seconds to check it. I've already done my work for the day, its Christmas Eve here, so I'm taking it easy.
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