RGF said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Fat 32 is the format to use, its compatible with your camera, with Windows, and with Macs. For 128GB cards, exFAT is used. Its compatible with late model cameras, Windows and Mac Snow Leopard and later.


A low level format as its now commonly referred to is not the same lowlevel format of yester year, it basically writes 0's to all the cells on your card, and is useful for finding bad cells and mapping them out.

In Windows, its called a full format as opposed to the quick format done in the camera and in Windows. Quick format just marks the card as empty and doesn't check anything. I don't know what terminology Macs Use.

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Nice it would actual test each sector by writing and reading.

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Actually, I think it does test.

You can use software like Lexar's Image Rescue 4 which will erase and then format a card. It can take a very long time to run on a big card.

Just my two cents, I would go for the Sigma 105mm F/2.8 EX DG Macro lens. I picked up mine for $300 used in mint condition. I use it a lot for both macro photography and video, it is one of my sharpest lenses. When you're photographing stuff like rugs, do you really need the fastest and best autofocus. The Sigma doesn't have the greatest autofocus but I'm shooting using live view and manually focusing most of the time. Just today I got some great shots with the lens.







Here are some other photos I've taken with it













Here's a movie I shot with it

Star Magnolia

The OP is looking for a flash. 580 and 600 were suggested in the first reply so I added the link to that post for more info.

Is the 700D aka Rebel X5i this side of the pond?

Thanks.

I know this is a little off topic but I found I was using my 50mm f/1.4 at 2.8 or smaller most of the time so i sold it and got the 24-70 f/2.8 II instead.

If you need to use the lens wider than 2.8, I always hear that the 50 1.2L outperforms the 50 1.4, but only marginally.

It all depends if you want ETTL or not. I have Sigma ring flash that is exactly the same as the MR-14EX and owned the MT-24-EX. I used the MT-24 with my MP-E65 which I sold both the lens and the flash.

The MR-14EX was really designed for medical applications like dentists taking shots of teeth but as neuronatomist mentioned because you can control or ratio each tube you can do nice work with it. It is less expensive than the MT-24 and easier to work with I found.

There are also tons of DIY projects on the net. People use an on camera flash like the 580, make aluminium foil lined cardboard tube that extends and is angled to the subject just past the end of the lens.

Here is one with my Sigma Ring flash

Sure C. is developing something new.
And I am sure, also a new FF.
They always will.

Time will tell.
You can be sure by buying a 5d3 to have a good tool now.

PureAmateur said:

How about this one?

http://re35.net/index.html

;D

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Nice design idea, pity about the April 1st disclaimer though :'(

wickidwombat said:

i really hope they enable customisation of the rate button
I want to set it to enable / disable AEB so i dont have to go into the menu to do it

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+1

An alternative would be http://www.canonpricewatch.com/. Click on whatever lens you are interested in and scroll to the bottom of the page. There is a graphical representation of the average pricing of the lens from release to present.

MRLinVA said:

Agree 100% with Neuro's assessment. In my view the only regret you will have is not having proper support and watching the big glass hit the ground. I have used the Wimberley WH-200 and it is very nice. I personally have the same RRS setup as Neuro describes, with the only difference being that I have the TVC-33S (the S stands for "short") which I prefer for travel convenience.

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I'd definitely go with the 3 section' studies, especially this is new to you. I have no trouble getting my Gitzo 3530LS 3 section on board a plane even a regional aircraft.

hgraf said:

I didn't consider that another type of closed loop is camera checks PD array, tells lens to move to a position and lens reports done. While technically closed loop, it isn't as simple as the first case, and exposes the system to more sources of error.

Engineering is all about compromise, so the fact that Canon does it the way it does points to there being a benefit to the more complicated method, my guess would be speed.

It's similar to how the contrast detect focusing in live view is "slow", contrast detect doesn't deliver as reliable a "your focus is off by this much" sort of error signal, so the loop is closed by the contrast detect, hence the hunting you see while in live mode.

So thank you all for clearing this up for me!

One last question: how does Nikon do it? Does it also have an AFMA type tool?

Thanks!

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Phase detect operates in basically the same way for all Cameras. It is old technology. A closed loop will still be inaccurate as well as slow. Remember, the check done by the PD array does not mean the subect is in focus.

Contrast detect, which uses the actual sensor photosites to compute focus is the closed loop type of focusing. Its painfully slow because of all the checking and back and forth searching. It often starts searching in the wrong direction.

Some of the newer Canon models now use a hybrid focusing method. Phase Detect pixels are embedded in the sensor, and tell the contrast detection system where to look for sharpest focus. The drawback for DSLR's is that the mirror must be up, so there is no visibility thru the viewfinder to be able to track the subject.

Mirrorless cameras get around this by using EVF technology which is improving with every new version. They are still very slow to focus where large sensors are involved. Small sensors might only use three to five lens positions to cover focus, so they are much quicker. The very deep depth of field makes this work.

"Distrosion" related to closeness to the 3D object like that image posted. For flat rugs laid out our hung (hanging down on platform which is lifted to be in the camera-lens axis which offers better workflow and product photo management) the wide angle less difficult to handle because distortion will be more subtle. But there will be some change in the pattern on the periphery of the [flat]rug if shoot close in with the 10-22. Nice lens, though. LR will correct the "barrel" or "pincushion" distortion. You might also look at DxO RAW processing product for other more sophisticated wide angle corrections.

I would guess that pattern distortion was a show-stopper (bad kind) in the rug business.

Sometimes the best way to clear up confusion is to just try it...

I hope you have continued happiness and enjoyment!

I purchased a refurbished 5Dmk3 six weeks ago when Canon marked them down to $2379.00. It had less than 100 shots taken on it and looked brand new. It has performed very well and I would definitely buy more refurbished items from Canon when on sale.

Having used both (for a 5D2) I'll take FoCal any day.

Jim

Thanks for all the help. I just join a local Photography-Club hope to learn how to use this thing before my trip, lol

The reason I was even thinking about the 600 was because 580 used on ebay going for like $375 but I can get new 600 for $499. Plus from what I have been reading they say sooner or later you will go with radio control. I don't want to buy something that later on will not use much because I bought something better.

jdramirez said:

Aglet said:

jdramirez said:

I'm upgrading my 60d to the 5d mkiii and I'm concerned I will really miss my 60d. but I think after I get the 5d, I will be better off getting a 50d for the afma and slightly faster shots per second.

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be prepared for the 50D's considerably greater noise.
When I had my 40D, and was thirsting for the AFMA and extra MP when the 50D came out, one look at some test shots and I decided to skip the 50D. It's my least liked x0D body for that reason.

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I was looking at the price of used fifties and they were outrageous considering i can get a new sixty d for the same price. so I'm not sure what I'll do, but I ess probably going to let my daughter have the 2nd body and I would use it as a back up when I needed to. who knows maybe the seventy will be awesome and I'll get that as my backup.

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Hi, I sold my 60D when I upraded to the 5D3, I miss it very much and do regret selling it. I didn't realize how good it would have been to have a good enough back up body. I liked all about it.

psolberg said:

Ultimately, there is not much point justifying our own choices. Going to any system, you gain some, you loose some, which is my point. I certainly see plenty of the same tales in Nikon land. In most cases however it is just the usual nonsensical loyalty photographers have for mere tools which is both hilarious and sad at the same time.

I know that there are people on both sides of the fence stuck on some lens or camera and erect a shrine to it and overblow its significance based on some anecdotal evidence or personal experience. I'm just glad, long gone are the days were it was canon or nothing and we should all celebrate it and hope it only gets to better. The trend certainly indicates the future is very heterogeneous and there will be plenty of choice. AWESOME.

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+1

I still don't understand the either-or mentality of some people, especially gearheads like myself.
Some of us have so much invested that it really doesn't matter much what brand it is, as long as it does the job it was purchased for.

E.G. Telling yourself you need to stay with brand X because you have all the flashes and strobes that match is not a very compelling argument when what you need is a better wide angle lens and higher DR body to do landscapes. Get the better landscape gear, use your other brand with your strobes.

Not all my wrenches and shop tools come from Sears or Snap-On. I see no compelling reason not to think the same way when spending on photo equipment. Get what's best suited for the task or whatever you prefer to use for a certain task.

Dare I say, having multiple camera brands on hand, for their different strengths, is NOT tantamount to puritanical views on polygamy. Yet some people seem to be wedded to their one brand of gear, for better or worse.
I prefer polycamy far more since I've experienced it. ;D

bseitz234 said:

I mean, I love this lens as much as anyone, but why is this a thread? There's a thread for this lens in the sample gallery....

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Sorry, Im new. maybe the mods can move it.

Thanks guys

Might try the grip with the 6d

Still would like to get another lens maybe the 70+ range is worth a look at

Cheers

Return both. Its normal for Sigma to have AF issues, but something sounds damaged on the Canon lens.

Great looking scope,by the way I thought this was a camera forum not some idiots political rhetoric.

wrong froum.. do we have MODS here who move such threads or are they just deleting threads where MODS get corrected and they look stupid?