Super fast exposure time - BBC News

neuroanatomist said:
comsense said:
neuroanatomist said:
kennephoto said:
Pretty sure you can use any light, since its quite literally capturing a photo of light. You just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do.

Right, so at 1 billionth of the current max shutter speed of 1/8000 s, to 'just adjust the exposure to compensate for the amount of light like we already do,' you'd need to go 36 stops higher than ISO 100. Know any cameras that can set ISO 6,871,947,673,600? ::)
Actually you both are wrong. You cant use any light. You need femtosecond pulsed laser source to illuminate the scene.

Ok, but I was being facetious. :)

FWIW, many years ago I used femtosecond laser time-resolved resonance Raman spectroscopy to study reaction intermediates of visual pigments (rhodopsin, etc.). Nd:YAG flashlamps, beamlines running across massive air tables decorated with mirrors and dichroics, fun times. I currently use a femtosecond Ti:sapphire laser (pumped with a frequency-doubled Nd:YVO4 laser) in fluorescent imaging applications.
I could see your humor; just wanted to make it geeky accurate with hand holdable Ti:sapphire ;D :'( ;D
Good to know you are spectroscopist and have used it; you can visualize very well what I mean.
Also, how many LP6 batteries would it take?
The around the corner image reconstruction from this group is pretty cool. Laser tech is developing so fast and people are already working on solid state femtosecond pulse lasers. If high pulse power is not required, its possible to have hand holdable version in near future.
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MotoCross Video Canon 7D - Canon 24-105L

Lop the 30s self promotion off the start.

Do faster cuts in time with the beat, especially the strong boom boom boom boom.

More action.

Jumps. Falls.

The kitting up is too long, I feel it building to maybe your son getting out there on the track and ripping it big time.

Anti-climatic.

However...

Good use of craning and crabbing.

Nice colour gradeing, primarys stand out, mud looks flat.

Nice light detailing relief on grip details of gloves etc.

You can handle a camera, I just felt this wasn't really telling a story.
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5d mkiii, grain in low-light - Am I just asking for too much?

jd,

In your situation I would start with these settings.

One 580 on camera as master (group A) with the big rouge, one 580 in assistants hand in group B zoomed to 24mm. Camera in M, flash in ETTL.

Set the camera to 1/100, f4, iso 200. Set flash to A:B 1:4, this puts group B at two stops brighter than group A and FEC at -1. Get your assistant in a position to create rim light, that is at an angle further away than your daughter and pointing at her but out of frame to your left or right.

Take a shot. If the subject is too bright adjust FEC down or visa versa, if the background is too bright raise shutter speed or again visa versa. If the rim is too bright in relation to the main adjust the A:B ratio, with Canon this means 1:1 is equal, A:B 1:2 is one part of light to A and two parts to B, B is twice as bright as A. The ETTL is taking care of different subject distances.

This should give you a good starting point and the right way to adjust to where you want.
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High humidity destination: gear precautions

First of all, thanks a lot for all the suggestions, I am a bit overprotective of my gear but I realise that I have to get that sorted if I want to fully enjoy costa rica photographically.

@neuro: thanks for the link, I've not read it yet but sure will :)
@jura: I have thought to get a rain cover for my camerabag but never realised that it won't be enough for real bad weather, I will look into some drybags
@t.linn: I've seen that shutter hat but don't think I'll bring a tripod most of the time so don't think I can use that. If it really rains I won't take photos :)

The only place in costa rica I am afraid for my gear is monteverde (cloud forest), but I guess that's the place I am preparing for the most :).

Taking the photos is secondary for this trip but I hope to get enough material to practice my landscape photography a bit, too much empty walls at home :). I almost never upload any photo's anymore but I hope to post some good shots when I get back.
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Buy 50mm f1.2L now or wait for the II?

Cannon Man said:
My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a copy?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It back focuses, the sharpness is CRAP at all apertures and it has a weird glow/softness that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the 50 1.2 and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Canon asking to make a real world L series 50mm.

My experience was completely opposite to yours?? Do you own a Ford Fiesta?? What i found was that the reviews are generally positive but in the real world it performs really bad! It has poor acceleration, the horsepower is CRAP at all RPM and it has a weird glow/softness in the headlights that i can't stand.

If i had a lot of money i would buy every existing copy of the Ford Fiesta and blow them to pieces with dynamite and send the video to Ford asking to make a real world sports car.
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Selling used gear UK

bought plenty from ffordes. Never the cheapest but I can vouch that they don't buy in rubbish, and therefore don't sell you rubbish. They sold me an ex-demo fig rig, which had some missing parts and they really went above and beyond to get it into working order for me. I'm occassionally up their neck of the woods and always make a point of stopping in, it's a slick wee operation.
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B+W XS-Pro Nano Filters & ef 70-200 2.8 is ii/ef 24-70 2.8 ii

As I suspected, you cannot mount the hood of the 70-200 II with an 82mm filter on the lens (and the hood is too deep to conveniently mount the fliter with the hood in place).

Like I stated, that's usually the case. But not always - for example, with a 77mm filter mounted via a 72→77mm step up ring on the 85L II, the hood can still be mounted.
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Help me price used equipment please!

Now, I do have 300 4L non-IS and 16-35 2.8 version 1. 300 4L stays no matter what. It is super sharp.
16-35 is not perfect at the corners but I have heard that neither 16-35 2.8 II is.

Right now I do not use it so much (I have a TS-E 17, a TS-E 24 II and a Zeiss 21 2.8) but I am not selling it yet.

If you love your lenses you should keep them. Anyway your 80-200 does not overlap with the 3 lenses you mentioned.
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70D or 6D

pedro said:
In your case: 6D. Without regrets. 70D is crop. Helpful for range. But high ISO IQ will fall far behind what a 6D even at very high ISOs is able to deliever. I was shooting a 30D for more than five years. Last August I purchased the 5D3. No regrets. So if the 6D matches with your budget: go and get it. This is my 5D3 last week, at very low candle light and insanely high ISO 51.2k. Processed in DPP (mostly NR), slight tonal corrections in PS.


Z96A5407bTLKlein by Peter Hauri, on Flickr


Z96A5407bTLBWKleindefCrop by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

Nice shots!
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Wrecked my 6D today, what a POS

ontarian said:
So I got over my initial dislike last year of a few of the corners Canon took with the 6D (like 1/4000 max shutter speed) because the image quality was on par with my 5D3. Today shooting the Collingwood Ontario Elvis festival in the rain with a EF 400mm 2.8 IS on my 5D3 and a 14mm 2.8 II on my 6D and I was shocked to find that my 6D stopped responding after about 20 minutes in sporadic rain. I got home, opened things up to inspect and found felt-like material at all the seams rather than the expected rubber material that even my EF-S mount 2009 era 7D has. I'm sorry, but F$#%K you Canon, for my couple of grand I want you to not skimp out on maybe a dollar's worth of sealing material. My 6D is now in a bowl of rice in my cranked up to the max infrared sauna, I'll see if my hatred of Canon corner cutting sticks. No wonder I enjoy developing EOS mount solutions for 60's to mid 80's era Canon manual focus lenses, its before they started sucking like it was a sport.


Edit, a few hours later:

Well, the bowl of rice and a couple of hours in the dry sauna seem to have brought the body back to life thankfully. I'm thinking that the 6D problems had something to do with the fact that it was hanging mostly from my shoulder with the rear buttons facing the rain where my 5D3 was mostly top up since they look like they should both share the same "weatherproofing" levels.


-Ed Mika

The 7D rules!!! 8)
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EOS 70D a New Benchmark in ISO Performance?

Marsu42 said:
jrista said:
Marsu42 said:
jrista said:
Hah, nice. I actually installed Lightroom 4.4 on my Microsoft Surface Pro, so I can tether it out in the field.
Problem is: Magic Lantern in-camera beats any tethering, or I'd carry around my laptop for tethering... that's why want a swivel screen & ml :-\
How can ML beat a 10.6" high density screen?

By weight, size and price :-> but we're probably talking of different usage scenarios here: All I'd want to do with tethered shooting (with a cable mind you, wifi for wildlife is another thing) is focus stacking, intervalometer and generally automating the camera - all which I can do by using ml as it is or scripting it or adding C code.
Marsu42, are you using ML on your 60D? I am waiting for their next release of the 5D3 code set.
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Canon primes

Grumbaki said:
The "Buy cheap, buy twice" idiom isn't only for crap that will break.

if you are sure that you'll like the results (focal lenght, thin dof) why buying the intermediate version? You'll still have that itch. It'll be even worse if you really enjoy the 1.8 as you'll have first hand experience on the limitations. Even if those glass hold their value well, you'll still make a loss.

At least that's the way I thought for my glass. Didn't do that for bodies and now the 60d collects dust while 5d3 runs wild.

As for the rant part of the post, it is a sad ttruth that the last percentile improvements cost more than the first. Sad truth of engineering, in every domain. If only lenses prices were linear....

Thank you I so agree! I've been victim to buy cheap buy twice or more lol. You can always make more money if you want to!
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Canon 24 70 2.8 L version I or Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC

LetTheRightLensIn said:
From what I hear, I'd give the Tamron a shot instead for sure, well providing you can't manage the 24-70 II which is completely awesome. 24-70 f/4 IS might also be worth a look if you can get one for some many hundreds below the $1500 list.

Sorry. I just thought that needed fixing :)
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Sigma korea posted this image. It's closely connected to Sigma poland's revoluti

xps said:
unfocused said:
I'm sure Canon and Nikon are worried about this trend. I just hope they respond by producing better and more affordable products, instead of just trying to cripple the third party products.

+1
I hope they stop the trend of Nikon/Canon to produce high-end lenses with astronomical price tags.

Actually I have different thought. If Nikon/Canon have reasonable price tags for their lenses, they will kill other lens makers. Competition is good for us.
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