New wide angle lens for FF

For landscape, its more of a focal length choice than a lens choice. Typically you use them at small apertures to get depth of field, and, at f/16 for example, they are all very similar.

You are paying big bucks for fast lenses that you can use wide open.

AF speed doesn't come into play for landscape either.

Its possible that something else is causing your issue, such as a damaged or misaligned lens.
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17-40mm advice please!

astevenscr said:
3kramd5 said:
marinien said:
tomscott said:
Although the 17-55mm F2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm F4 IS

The 17-40mm is 27-64mm F4 on crop

Just to avoid some confusion:
The 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm f/4.5 IS.
The 17-40mm f/4 is equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop. ;)

You don't lose a stop and a half by cropping. You must mean 'as it pertains to DOF'. Just to avoid confusion.

Furthermore, I think this example can't be quite right for even DOF. Note that the o.p. says:
The 17-55 is the full frame equivalent of 27-88 f/4.5 IS; AND
the 17-40 f/4 is equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop

but how can the equivalent f/stop for DOF purposes increase both when you move to full frame and when you move to crop? Or am I missing something?

Oh sorry! I wanted to use the same words as tomscott. He certainly understands the conversion, I think he had juste typed too fast ;). A longer statement would be:
The 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is the full frame equivalent of 27-88mm f/4.5 IS on crop (I ignored the "on crop" in the previous post because the 17-55mm is a lens for crop bodies).
The 17-40mm f/4 is the full frame equivalent to 27-64mm f/6.4 on crop.

@3kramd5: thanks for the added detail, yes, I meant DoF equivalent.
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Should I upgrade to FF or invest in lenses instead?

Why not get a used 5d2 and a shiny new lens and enjoy both worlds? A new 6D offers more than the 5d2 but its priced much higher ... Unless you need the ergonomics, weather sealing, GPS and Wi-Fi (and it looks like you don't).

"Investment", if I use that word, is best made in a lens as it will outlast the camera body you buy and also retain its value (especially if you are buying an L lens).
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Sell canon 5d3 and return new macbook pro retina to buy the 1d x

Dylan777 said:
KKCFamilyman said:
Dylan777 said:
A few months ago, you almost sell your your 5D III + lenses to settle for 6D + 24-70 f4 IS. ADN NOW..........you want 1D X? ??? ::) :-\ :) :D ;D

No i was in a light gear phase. I cured that with a sony nex 6. Then I was in a 1d x phase but thanks to the advice of you fellow canon rumor chaps i will go for a new lens. I am thinking the sigma 35mm.

For light gear phase, I went with Sony RX1 - small enough to carry around and takes amazing photos.

If Sony or Fuji come out FF build in P&S body like RX1 with exchangable lenses ...I'll sell all my Canon gear ;)

Here are some photos from RX1:
http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/nkq0gb6m/1/5981795

I agree that is a nice camera. I just have a hard time investing in such an expensive single fl camera. Nice pics:)
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Should I swap my 60D and $ for a 5D Mk II??

It depends how deep your pockets are. He wants your 60D, battery grip and some cash. Offer him the Tokina 12-24 lens instead of cash. I think the Tokina is APS-C and not full frame. You'll need your cash to buy lenses. I don't know the fair prices of your stuff or his so I am guessing. You may have to sweeten the pot with $500.00 cash plus your gear. That would really help him out. You and he could swap memory cards and you both save a small amount of money.

When the 70D comes out and if it has the specs that you want you could buy it if you can still afford it.

I think a 5Dll in good shape is a still desirable camera to have.
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Question for techies, Port of call: 2.0 crop factor

axtstern said:
... a body that makes my 120-300 2.8 become a 240-600 2.8 would be a dream.

A camera can't do that. Focal length is an intrinsic property of the lens (unless you believe the lies of Panasonic's marketing department). It's called a 'crop factor' because a smaller sensor is cropping the image, using a smaller portion of the image circle.

A 2x crop sensor with a 120-300/2.8 gives the FoV of a 240-600mm lens on FF, and the DoF of a 240-600mm f/5.6 lens on FF (the crop factor applies to DoF for the same framing). While the lens is always f/2.8 in terms of exposure (which is determined by light per unit area), image noise is determined by the total area of the sensor - the 2x crop sensor at ISO 400 will have the same noise level as a FF sensor at ISO 1600 - that negates the 'crop advantage' of the f/2.8 lens in terms of shutter speed.

The bottom line is that what the crop sensor gives you is more pixels on target (and that's based on the APS-C having a higher pixel density - if you compare the 5DII to the 20D, the crop sensor has no 'reach advantage'). In practice, the FF can give you the same shutter speed with the same noise for the same DoF (when stopping down the lens of FF), but FF gives you the option of a thinner DoF if you want it. If you crop a FF image to the FoV of APS-C (or 2x), at low ISO the IQ is equivalent and at higher ISO the FF will have better IQ. So the real question becomes, how many MP do you need for your desired output? If ~8 MP is enough (prints up to 16x24"), then the 'crop advantage' of APS-C is an illusion and you'd be better off just cropping your FF images in post.

</soapbox> ;)
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Announcements on March 22, 2013? [CR1]

Rienzphotoz said:
Don Haines said:
Rienzphotoz said:
RGF said:
If only money grew on trees and I had one of those trees
I'd get two ... one for daily use and the other for backup purposes ;D
I'd be playing chess.....with Roger's chess set
What is "Roger's chess set"?

https://www.lensrentals.com/rent/canon/lenses/supertelephoto/lensrentals-chess-set
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Some pictures from Guilin, China

Some advertising in Guilin

In general, local products are about 10 times cheaper in China when compared to the west, but you have to bargain. Without negotiation, you will pay at least 10 times more, so more or less as much as things cost in the west. With good negotiation skills, foreigners will be able to fix the price somewhere in the middle, which should be fair enough for both sides. Only few places know price tags, like super markets. Western products are significantly more expensive than in the west due to import taxes. If not, they are most likely fake.

It is difficult to move in China without the help of a local. You probably cannot read, and understand Chinese, and you are not allow to drive without a Chinese driving license.
Best thing probably is to hire a local guide. Even though they always get on my nerves, they can arrange things that are otherwise out of reach for you. I would negotiate with a few to probe the prices. And I wouldn't pay (the full amount) upfront.

cu,
bbb

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Fixing video shot with the wrong shutter speed

Actually...

just re-reading the question...

are you confusing shutter speed with frame rate perhaps?

Yes the 180 degree rule is desirable, but not an absolute deal breaker.

Did you mean to shoot at 60fps rather than 30fps? FPS is independent from shutter speed, for 60fps you would probably want a shutter of 1/125th.

Either way you are stuck with what you've shot. Apps like compresser (apple only) can alter the viewing rate, but this will obviously affect your clip length and subject motion. Most NLE's let you mix and match frame rates, and do a decent enough job of repeating or interpolating.
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T-Stop Web Site listings

Guys, I'm wondering if we can collate a set of web links which points to sites which show T-Stop listings for Canon lenses?
DP review are now adding T Stop listings for their reviews, starting with the new 24-70 f2.8 II L. But they aren't retrospectively re-working all their other reviews. So I'm wondering if there's any other sources? DXO optics list a single T-Stop value for their lens reviews...but this is only good for primes. Zooms need at least two values, one from each end of the zoom.

Exposing to the left?

TrumpetPower! said:
This is a very good point. It's why lenses are calibrated in T-stops rather than F-stops over in the cinema world.
Cheers,

b&

Do you know of a web site which charts the T-Stop values for Canon lenses? Do they chart zooms across their focal length too? Most constant aperture zooms are not fixed T-Stop zooms. A lens T-Stop value can also change according to how close it's focussed. I've yet to see a review site which comprehensively tests this criterior. DXO mark seems to have a single T Stop value per lens, which is useful for a prime but not very usefull for a zoom....a 24-70 f2.8 L will need testing at 24mm and 70mm and probably every major focal point in between.
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