axtstern said:

... a body that makes my 120-300 2.8 become a 240-600 2.8 would be a dream.

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A camera can't do that. Focal length is an intrinsic property of the lens (unless you believe the lies of Panasonic's marketing department). It's called a 'crop factor' because a smaller sensor is cropping the image, using a smaller portion of the image circle.

A 2x crop sensor with a 120-300/2.8 gives the FoV of a 240-600mm lens on FF, and the DoF of a 240-600mm f/5.6 lens on FF (the crop factor applies to DoF for the same framing). While the lens is always f/2.8 in terms of exposure (which is determined by light per unit area), image noise is determined by the total area of the sensor - the 2x crop sensor at ISO 400 will have the same noise level as a FF sensor at ISO 1600 - that negates the 'crop advantage' of the f/2.8 lens in terms of shutter speed.

The bottom line is that what the crop sensor gives you is more pixels on target (and that's based on the APS-C having a higher pixel density - if you compare the 5DII to the 20D, the crop sensor has no 'reach advantage'). In practice, the FF can give you the same shutter speed with the same noise for the same DoF (when stopping down the lens of FF), but FF gives you the option of a thinner DoF if you want it. If you crop a FF image to the FoV of APS-C (or 2x), at low ISO the IQ is equivalent and at higher ISO the FF will have better IQ. So the real question becomes, how many MP do you need for your desired output? If ~8 MP is enough (prints up to 16x24"), then the 'crop advantage' of APS-C is an illusion and you'd be better off just cropping your FF images in post.

</soapbox>

Rienzphotoz said:

Don Haines said:

Rienzphotoz said:

RGF said:

If only money grew on trees and I had one of those trees

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I'd get two ... one for daily use and the other for backup purposes ;D

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I'd be playing chess.....with Roger's chess set

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What is "Roger's chess set"?

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https://www.lensrentals.com/rent/canon/lenses/supertelephoto/lensrentals-chess-set

At B&H fo0r $ 499:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/918894-REG/sigma_30mm_f_1_4_dc_hsm.html

Picture Perfect ... especially the second and the third pics ... great work

Next week i will test
Dynalite SH2000 Studio 2000 Watt and compare between Dynalite 2040 head
Dynalite SR-80 Soft Lite White "Beauty Dish" Reflector
Dynalite Snoot Flash Head Reflectors

It won't be any sharper stopped down from wide open on a (current) full frame camera, you will only increase the depth of focus. You aren't remotely seeing the full detail-resolving power of the lens on a 5D3.

I'm staying through Sunday and wondered if any other people from this board would be there.

I'll be shooting the city while I'm there and hope to make it up to Muir Woods for some photos as well.

Some advertising in Guilin

In general, local products are about 10 times cheaper in China when compared to the west, but you have to bargain. Without negotiation, you will pay at least 10 times more, so more or less as much as things cost in the west. With good negotiation skills, foreigners will be able to fix the price somewhere in the middle, which should be fair enough for both sides. Only few places know price tags, like super markets. Western products are significantly more expensive than in the west due to import taxes. If not, they are most likely fake.

It is difficult to move in China without the help of a local. You probably cannot read, and understand Chinese, and you are not allow to drive without a Chinese driving license.
Best thing probably is to hire a local guide. Even though they always get on my nerves, they can arrange things that are otherwise out of reach for you. I would negotiate with a few to probe the prices. And I wouldn't pay (the full amount) upfront.

cu,
bbb

wikipedia tells me that the 40D uses lithium ion batteries - and these babies go downhill after 2 years/500 cycles (rule of thumb )

So a new one might not really solve the problem as this two year limit begins when it leaves the factory.
Try to find out the production date...

Actually...

just re-reading the question...

are you confusing shutter speed with frame rate perhaps?

Yes the 180 degree rule is desirable, but not an absolute deal breaker.

Did you mean to shoot at 60fps rather than 30fps? FPS is independent from shutter speed, for 60fps you would probably want a shutter of 1/125th.

Either way you are stuck with what you've shot. Apps like compresser (apple only) can alter the viewing rate, but this will obviously affect your clip length and subject motion. Most NLE's let you mix and match frame rates, and do a decent enough job of repeating or interpolating.

Guys, I'm wondering if we can collate a set of web links which points to sites which show T-Stop listings for Canon lenses?
DP review are now adding T Stop listings for their reviews, starting with the new 24-70 f2.8 II L. But they aren't retrospectively re-working all their other reviews. So I'm wondering if there's any other sources? DXO optics list a single T-Stop value for their lens reviews...but this is only good for primes. Zooms need at least two values, one from each end of the zoom.

TrumpetPower! said:

This is a very good point. It's why lenses are calibrated in T-stops rather than F-stops over in the cinema world.
Cheers,

b&

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Do you know of a web site which charts the T-Stop values for Canon lenses? Do they chart zooms across their focal length too? Most constant aperture zooms are not fixed T-Stop zooms. A lens T-Stop value can also change according to how close it's focussed. I've yet to see a review site which comprehensively tests this criterior. DXO mark seems to have a single T Stop value per lens, which is useful for a prime but not very usefull for a zoom....a 24-70 f2.8 L will need testing at 24mm and 70mm and probably every major focal point in between.

I've never heard anything about Canon refurbs... Never. Good deal on the 5DIII!

A couple examples from the 5d2 and 24-105 combo shot last year. I now have a 5d3, but am still using the 24-105, though I have since added some additional lenses. I think it is worthwhile for you to get the 6D kit, and may buy a 6D for myself in future as backup

i like my nissin ones... but not as good as recycle time as me canon ones

I highly recommend these cases for holding your filters
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/735394-REG/Tiffen_4BLTPCHLGK_Belt_Filter_Pouch_Large.html

Thanks for sharing and completley agree. There are a ton of video tutorials out there for setting up this flash system - in my opinion, this is by far the best. Informative yet simple and without being either overly complicated or patronising.

Thats very good advice, although ive never had any eyesight problems, and I think you're refering to using a prism finder on the hasselblad? because there are waist level finders easily avalable, is there a diffrence between them and on on a rolli tlr?
[/quote]

I did indeed find a distinct difference between the waist level finder on the Hassy and that on the Rollei TLR.

And I could never get a good view through the Hassy, while the Rollei always works for me.

Try one and see. You might have no trouble at all...

Thanks everyone, I've received a lot of good tips here. The website comparison you provided Z did a great job of letting me check out the sharpness of the various lenses (especial at the corners and at different apertures). I already own a Canon 17-40mm and a 24-105mm, looks like I'll use the 17-40 for most shots within this range and the 24-105 for anything above. The corners look really soft on the 24-105 in the corners wide open but the 17-40 is a complete work around. If I'm working in a more low light environment I'll just stick with my Canon 50mm 1.4 as it's tack sharp for these types of shots. Thanks again!!

Congrats! The 5D M3 is a great camera.

drmikeinpdx said:

Thanks for the recommendation Neuro. I ordered that one from B&H. It's worth a bit more to get one that fits.

Now I need to buy a lens to fit my Hong Kong ring!

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How over sized is it? I bought a "better quality" Fotodiox Pro collar for my 70-200 f/4L IS from Amazon that didn't quite tighten completely. I ran 2 strips of quality electrical tape around the inside of the collar and now it is rock solid...

Hey all. I am just starting out with strobes and was wondering if you could recommend a wireless trigger for my set up.

I currently own a Pocket Wizard Transmitter and Receiver but they are expensive. I have been using it for a few years now to trigger my off camera speed light (430 exII). Now I am adding a strobe to the mix (Alien Bee 1600) and was wondering if I should go with the CyberSyncs?

Thanks 8)

Great review, and you have some amazing images up on your site.

I also like the post on Visualization. Great stuff.

Mark D5 TEAM III said:

What do you mean "don't show in the user list so they were deleted"? Shouldn't that be the other way around? What are your criteria for deleting usernames? I definitely don't fall into the categories "CR Backup Admin" has mentioned. I can still search for my old posts. Yes, I'm the 100th person to register for this forum after the reformat. But I was already very active even before there was even a forum and we all just commented below the actual article. That is why I chose that username, it was an in-joke during those times before there was a forum (old-timers here would know the "joke" ), same with my signature (another in-joke, used by another poster in an article comment thread then ).

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If you are not in the user list, your account is gone, that's what he means. When a user is deleted, there is no entry in the list. Posts from the user may remain, but his name is shown in black, not red to show that he is no longer a user.

What was your old user name? Can you post a link to a recent post if there is one. If you have posted recently, I might be able to find out what happened, but the history disappears pretty fast from the logs with thousands of entries a day.

It seems very unlikely that a moderator or administrator removed you without some good reason. I'm sure that one of the mods would have mentioned it by now if they recall anything.

jrbdmb said:

Well, at least the problem with the 5d III can be corrected over time, and at around $2900 new this issue may already have been fixed. Fixing an underspec'd 6D on the other hand ... not so easy.

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But it is - sell the 6d for €1200. The 6d as well as the 5d3 have weaknesses, obviously the 6d more than the 5d3, and "underspeced" for the 6d is only related to the competition (d600) and the current price. Just like the 5d3 is also just another camera and there are better current models (1dx) and there will be newer replacements to come, maybe sooner than later.