jonathan7007 said:

Great feedback although I wish the "answer" was more clear. Some good news, some bad news (about this body's capabilities.)
On balance I will now look for one... will have to be eBay as there aren't any likely to show up in rural area's CraigsList! I will also tr to buy from some place that will stand by the description and condition. A challenge.

Thanks, everyone, for adding your experiences with the 1Ds MkIII.

jonathan7007

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Cool ... BTW, if your wife "gifts" you a 5d3, don't end up turning into a purple faced guy

Sorry ... Couldn't resist ;D

Cheers ... JR

I see Canon consolidating a 4k-capable 1D camera in 3 years time for about 6-8k.

wickidwombat said:

I'm using the edmika adapter on my 600 f4.5 FD lens
its actually a wonderfull video lens because the focus wheels are light and allow you to very gently pull focus without causing lens vibration that would be unavoidable with a ring focus setup

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I never had a jerky issue like you describe with my 600mm f/4 AF lens. It had a focus by wire system and you could set the focus speed for manual focus to smooth and slow, or tomediun or to fast. It was as smooth as silk when manually focusing.

I have a Canon T2i with just the 18-55mm kit lens, and also a 50mm prime I was given. I'm a beginner film maker, and plan on shooting a video for my step-brother this summer of motocross. I want the style to be similar to Moto: The Movie series, Kickstart or Epic (all motocross films), kind of a documentary/stylized look at the sport. I noticed most shots have a very deep depth of field, where as everything is in focus. How do I easily pull this off, and what lens would you recommend for doing such a film?

Again, I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a stupid question.

I appreciate any response.
Thanks!

brought1 said:

GAlbrecht said:

Would be a big change but, why not sell the 5d ii and the two 40d's, and get two 5d iii's. The mark 3's would be better for the weddings and the sports with its autofocus and frame rate. And then you have the convenience of using two identical bodies, same button layout, ergonomics, and probably a more consistent image output.

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Here's my issue with the 40d's - I have two of them, purchased back in 2007 and 2008. Well, right now, resale value on ebay and the going rate on craigslist in my area is around 150-200 just for the body only. The 40d is still a great camera and I would hate to sale it for mere pennies on the dollar. I would rather save it for my two sons, so when they get older, they have something to mess around with.

Right now, I did post on CL in my area for a 40d, 28-135 is, sigma 17-70, 2 battieries, 6 different filters for 650. Let's see if it sells.

And earlier, someone mentioned that if I could find a 1ds mkiii for closer to 2000, that might be a better option than buying the 5d mk iii. That's what I was thinking. If I had to drop 3000 + for a 1ds mk iii....I don't know that I would go that route. Plus the warranty!!! I don't think I'll find a warranty with the 1ds where I could easily get one for the 5d mk iii.

Good comments everyone! I really appreciate it. Thank you.

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good point on the 40ds you could also keep em for shooting timelapse if you are into that sort of thing

Even as a happy 5D3 user, if you have the money, I say to 1Dx all the way

CanNotYet said:

I am reading up a lot on this, preparing for purchasing a 7D classic, and everyone seems to agree that the 18mp APS-C sensor is capable of excellent results, providing it is paired with a "good enough lens".

So, my question is: Which lenses ARE good enough for the 18mp APS-C sensor?

Lots of answers are: "L mark II"

So, is it only L mark II that are "good enough" for 7D? Where do you draw the line? At L-glass?
Is the 85mm f1.8 good enough? The 70-300 non-L? the 17-40L?

If someone had a list of "good enough" lenses, I would (and I think others too) appreciate it a lot. Especially where to draw the line. L mark II are WAY out of my budget, so lets set the limit to 1000$.

Which lenses are good enough (sharp and resolving power) for the 18mp APS-C sensor, below 1000$?

Come on! Give me some nice recommendations! (3rd party is fine too)

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Like others have said already there is no right or wrong answer here. I would go down the decision tree by starting with what focal length(s) you want, if you like primes or zooms or both, if you're interested in shallow depth of field (and hence want to look at fast primes perhaps) - and then your budget. The whole sharpness and resolving power thing is a bit overrated in my opinion.

There are lots of very affordable options out there. The least rewarding will likely be the cheap do-it-all zooms but you probably already know that. As far as primes go dare I say that ALL Canon EF primes are very good. Same is probably true for the better off-brands such as Sigma. You may even find the occasional cheap Chinese (or whatever) manual focus nugget that is worth playing with.

So it's really more a question what style of photography you want and from there decide if it's worth for you getting one or two of the somehow nicer lenses that are "better" in various ways. It's not just sharpness.

Re: 5D3 Focus Assist Beam Fix On The Way!!!

Studio1930 said:

Chosenbydestiny said:

Great news for us indoor event shooters...

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And outdoor night shooters (although I usually use bigger lights and a spot flashlight for focus)

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I'm sure this fix will make your work easier, but damn, you're doing pretty well with what you've got... really like this shot!!

Marsu42 said:

Yedija luhur said:

Personally i like 5D2 in camera JPEG sharpening method rather than 6D, but luckily i often use RAW file, so i can manage my own sharpening method.

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The 5d2 has the sharpest sensor output, esp. at lower iso, of the 5d2/5d3/6d generations, so it can do with less in-camera postprocessing. The 6d is at the other end of the scale, it trades some sharpness for higher iso capability - to compensate, Canon obviously has implemented more aggressive sharpening. I don't think you can do anything about this except bug Canon for a fw update.

I remember this issue being discussed when the first 6d raw and jpeg samples were out. This is more or less the difference between the "pro" 5d2 and the 6d which is tuned for sooc amateur shots, Canon has to protect their 5d3 after all :-o

Btw. the difference between your sample shots is really larger than I'd have expected it, maybe some other problem is at work here in combination with the above sensor difference.

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thanks for your answer, yeah i believe 5D2 was a very wonderful camera too, their color characteristic is brilliant and razor sharp in their jpeg mode... unless i shot with studio light, they wont make any difference..
i'm little disappointed in this, but i shoot RAW, so everything will be alright, until i process hundreds or thousands RAW file..

Note; with this and any other strap, if you're concerned about it accidentally coming loose you can use some of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010HA6A6/

as backup

Synomis192 said:

... if I purchase an L for my crop body I feel like I'd waste it.

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Well this is a HUGE misconception. My old 550D/T2i started to shine when I finally got the 100L for it two years ago. Of course now on my 5D3 its an even better lens but still it was awesome on APS-C.

If your budget is limited then you should always invest in lenses not bodies IMO. You say that you do not have appropriate lenses for FF and after going through your list, your right (except for the 50 maybe)!
Your FF Camera won't do much good without great lenses.

On the other hand your T1i would do great with:
70-200 4 L IS
100L
135L
200 2.8 L
all inside your budget.

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I am a portrait photographer, and I love the 6D. I find the increased dynamic range (over the 5DII) huge for smoother transitions on faces, and the AF is much more accurate for nailing those sharp eyes.

Plus, the Wi-Fi capability enable me to do this : http://www.dustinabbott.net/2013/02/i-believe-i-can-fly/, which would be near impossible with the 5DII by myself because of nailing the razor thin depth of field of the 135L wide open.

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Good work!

Could you point-out any other favourite portraits that you have shot with the 6d?

Archangel72 said:

BIG VOTE for my BIG GUN!!!

1Dx... +5 and why?

because...

1. It's BIG, ideal for big hands.
2. It's for people who can carry heavy stuff, and not complain like a little girl about weight and size.
3. It's a photo weapon, and not a little toy
4. Better ISO.
5. Faster shutter speed 12-14 fps - MONSTER.
6. Louder shutter - I paid 6.200,00 Euro for freekin' camera who gives a sh.. if attracts a little attention (you are photographer, you should have "stronger armour" ... "thick skin", if you can't handle pressure of few people complaining, and you care a lot about what they all have to say, than you shouldn't do photography... stop crying and start taking photos. (You don't buy a Ferrari, and than drive only in 1st gear, you shift your 6 or 7 gears, and enjoy in speed of light, with big sound coming from your engine, not your speakers).
1Dx = Ferrari
7. Better water sealing.
8. 400000 shutter cycles.
9. Better video quality.
etc...
I hope you get the point why 1Dx over anything else on this planet ...
No hard feelings people, but pay more - get more.

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Hmm...and the 1D X compensates for a tiny little....what? : ;D

pwp said:

wickidwombat said:

pwp said:

Despite scouring the web for a definitive answer on the question of Odins working with Einsteins to achieve even a moderately faster flash sync speed, I didn't come up with much. Hell even 1/500th would be very very useful.

What I did read was a trick setting where you trigger the Einsteins with a speedlight set to HSS. Apparently when set to HSS the flash is programmed to fire earlier than in the standard setting. I'll test & report back. Even so, this arrangement would be of limited usefulness because of proximity restrictions. But maybe if you used Odins on HSS and used a speedlight to trigger the Einstein this would work. You'd put the speedlight on a stand right up against the Einstein photocell. Could work!

Can someone with Einsteins & Odins give this a whirl?
-PW

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you're not in Perth are you? otherwise we could meet up and try your Einsteins and my Odins

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No not in Perth, we're in Sydney. Nice offer though. How do the Odins go with your monos (Elincrom?)

-PW

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The odins work great with the Elinchrom right up to 1/8000 th sec
only issue i had was at exactly 1/250th sometimes got black frames
it might just be because its on the cusp of changing from xsync to however
it syncs for high speed. basically a non issue because if i want to shoot at 1/200 i'll just use the skyport trigger
and use the odins if i want it faster. I ended up ordering a stratto 2 reviever to see if it works in the same capacity on the elinchroms

I also discovered that a $2 3.5mm audio jack splitter cable lets you have 1 reciever drive 2 mono lights too!
much cheaper than a $150 per odin reciever

HurtinMinorKey said:

From what i've seen/read, the 1Dx is considered soft and lacks detail like the 5d3, with slightly better low light performance. The s35 crop mode on the 1D-C is much better, and shows what they could have done on the 5D3 and the 1DX.

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It's too bad they didn't put an APS-C video mode in the 5D3 because:
1. more reach can help for wildlife
2.a. it would be closer scale to the natural AA filter and might not need to be quiet as softened up
2.b. perhaps the single digic would even be fast enough to simply reach that whole chunk directly and downscale to provide really high quality
3. they could even perhaps have fit in an even high mag mode where they read out a 2k block directly and process it

Anyway I've heard that the 1DX tends to have a bit more moire in it's good mode, but to offer noticeably better micro-contrast/crisper detail. It will never have ML made for it, at least no by the ML group, and considering all that Canon left out of it that is a shame and makes it less useful.

AprilForever said:

neuroanatomist said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Marsu42 said:

Indeed, and while I guess US law would apply to CR

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Nope, CR is in Canada. Those who post are responsible for their own posts, but the moderators try to make it a plesant place to carry on reasonable conversations about photography.
They even let some of the US citizens like Neuro and myself post here. My son was born in Toronto and has a Canadian father, so I guess that makes me part Canadian - eh

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...and my mom was born in Regina and is still a Canadian citizen with permanent resident status in the US. Maybe we should start a conspiracy theory about a requirement for a 'Canadian connection'...

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I once dated a girl from Quebec... I suppose I count?

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It's quite easy to get an honorary Canadian citizenship. All you have to do is:

End a sentence with eh? - Eh
Drink a beer while wathching a hockey game.
Know what a Timbit is....
Pronounce "Winnipeg" as "Winterpeg"
Think that melted curds and gravy on top of fries is a delicacy
Know that they are only two seasons.... winter and blackfly.

And for your viewing pleasure... http://www.onf.ca/film/blackfly This is a film by the National Film Board that accurately depicts life in Canada between winters... eh... enjoy

I carry a 60D and the canon 18-200 when hiking. It is not the greatest lens in the world.... but it is convenient. No swapping lenses in and out, easy to carry, and certainly decent enough quality for the web or slideshows. In hiking, what I can carry is the limiting factor.

As long as you are outdoors any comparable lens, like the sigma and the tamron, should act well. AF feed and image quality will be nowhere near as good as a nice Lglass prime.... but then again you will not be spending $8000 either.

Your worst case scenario is that you buy the lens at a great deal, try it for a while and decide you don't like it, and then sell it as almost new for close to what you paid for it..... not a whole lot of risk....

I use the tripod mount, and I also have a magnetic base meant for antennas, but it uses the same mounting screw size to it works as a tripod base.

And don't forget cable ties.... very versatile.... get the black ones as they are less prone to snapping than the white or colored ones. They are also UV resistant.... but then you won't be using one long enough for it to matter. A safety lanyard can come in handy if things go wrong.

Then we have my magnet mount onto a stunt kite.... Two VERY strong magnets sandwitching the kite fabric and a small sheet of plastic (for rigidity).... camera tie wrapped to the bottom magnet.... As has been said, if you can't do it with Duct Tape or Magnets, then it's just not worth doing

Waterdonkey said:

I think this is an "In a Pinch" solution.
It worked for my 7d and a 10-22mm I had. But I have to agree Clean them proper when you get home.

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It's not an "in a pinch solution".... you can seriously damage the pins VERY easily.

The use of erasers to clean contacts goes with cleaning the contacts on printed circuit boards..... and you do remove the plating... clean them a few times and you can clearly see where the gold is worn away and the copper is showing. On the printed circuit board the contact is flat and easily plated.... not so on edges of materials... like pin ends. When you clean a circuit board connector the contact is over a much wider area than the tip of a pin so the pressure per square inch, and abrasiveness, is much less. The use of an eraser is destructive cleaning, I can't say it any plainer.

If you are spraying anything.... do not spray directly on the contacts as the solvent will also splash around either the camera body or the lens.... spray on something outside of the lens or the body and then use it to clean the contacts.

If you use a cleaner... you need to use something that will not leave a non-conductive residue. Things like WD40 will make electrical contact problems worse.

rdespy said:

so you don't have to pay for return shipping in case you got the bad copy.

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Amazon doesn't take return shipping fees (I just exchanged a bad 17-40L copy), but for the Tamron I'll indeed buy it at a local store where I can return it immediately w/o waiting for a few days. At least testing the 17-40L with a chart and reading these threads I am confident I can tell if it's a "good" or "bad" copy.

Menace said:

Well done. Like them all

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Thank you!

Richard

http://www.dustinabbott.net/2013/02/i-believe-i-can-fly/

To able to do this all myself with the razor thin depth of field of the 135L is pretty amazing. I would have had a nightmare trying to execute this concept with my 5DII

Losing the IS might suck, though. A used 70-200 f4 IS might not be too much more expensive and will be cover all bases, IMO. And you can always slap on a 1.4x third party TC and still get better images at 300mm@f/5.6 than the 70-300.
Also, the AF speed and noise of the 70-300 was a big bummer for me. I sold it to get the Tamron, which was far better.

Should be interesting - they need to atleast match Canon's quality and be much cheaper to have any chance of success with this lens.

Well done.