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Jun 17, 2012

You should DEFINITELY wait. Yes, wait for sure. Oh, no, waiting might...no, no you should buy something now! Hmm, but what if...no, wait...yes, wait. However...

Look, you don't NEED the camera right NOW, so just wait. Commit to Black Friday. How about that? That's post Photokina, and whatever's new is bound to be out by then.

Jun 16, 2012

I learned to shoot in manual and can't imagine shooting (for the most part) any other way. For me, the enjoyment of shooting involves the challenge...I do a lot of event work and definitely have to adjust quickly. Do I nail every single shot? No, but I've learned from my mistakes and don't miss much anymore. As others have stated, with practice the speed will come. The ten inches behind the camera are the most important part of the camera...

Jun 16, 2012

Manual always with bulb occasionally...

Jun 16, 2012

Good to know! I'll add the Fasten RT1 to my cart! I'm currently using a Manfrotto 055XPROB Pro Tripod w/ a Manfrotto 322RC2 Joystick Head. I like the set up, but even with the macro rail it's hard getting the tripod just right for macro work. I recently bought a ring mount for my macro lens, but have yet to try it.

expatinasia · Jun 16, 2012

briansquibb said:
... this type of photography involves a lot of luck ...

Very true, although I am not sure many would admit to it! ;-) I am very much looking forward to real life reviews of the 1DX (production model) from people who do not have something to lose by upsetting Canon with a negative review or comment. I hope those reviews aren't too far away now...

Mt Spokane Photography · Jun 16, 2012

bdunbar79 said:
jaayres20 said:

I hardly use my 50mm 1.4 because I have the 1.2. I just keep it as a backup. My 1 year old daughter managed to pick it up while it was out of my bag and it dropped on the hard wood floor. When I picked it up I discovered the rear element had popped out. I pushed it back in and it snapped into place. After a short test the lens seems to be focusing and working just fine. Does anyone know if that the rear element is just pressed into place or when it fell did it break something I don't know about? I hate to rely on it one day and find out it is broken but I also hate to send it in if it is fine. Anyone know?

Click to expand...

I'm paranoid, so when I bought the 50 f/1.4 and read all the horror stories regarding the AF breaking and quit working after awhile, I leave the lens hood on it all the time and overexessively keep a B+W Slim UV haze filter on it at all times

I bought a used one that turned out to have a cracked plastic internal part, Canon fixed it for their flat rate. I had to buy a replacement new one, because I had a job needing it. I sold the repaired one after Canon repaired it (it was perfect), and have never had a issue with the new one. Its almost certain to do some internal damage if dropped, those plastic parts crack or break, and then when you need it, it stops completely.

Drizzt321 · Jun 16, 2012

Marsu42 said:
Drizzt321 said:

It's to get the shutter speed up as high as possible. Most especially if you're in an area that doesn't allow flashes, although not sure how often you'd use a super-wide or wide angle in those areas, which are usually churches, since you'd be getting kinda in the way for most ceremonies.

Click to expand...

Exactly - you named one reason for my doubting f2.8 on a uwa is all important. The second is shutter speed - if 1/x second is ok @70mm and f2.8 for handheld & motion, then surely 1/(x/2) is ok @17mm and f4?

Of course "as fast as possible" is desirable, but I'm wondering if for a wedding/event setup a top f2.8 uwa zoom is the right spot to spend money for in contrast to your "bread and butter" 24-70 & maybe 70-200 f2.8 zooms.

Sure, if the subjects are staying pretty still. If there's a good bit of action, you still need a high shutter speed. So at 17mm, 1/20 might be a decent shutter speed for say the alter. But when you add in the priest, couple getting married, grooms-men, brides-maids, even normal movement at 1/20 might be blurred, so 1/60 is much better, and 1/120 is significantly better.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jun 16, 2012

Here is the jcowell database, he tracks selling prices. http://www.jcolwell.ca/photography/lens$db/index.htm

bdunbar79 · Jun 16, 2012

If you are shooting weddings and portraits, I'd buy a 5D Mark II. They're $2199 right now new. That with your 60D would be fantastic. Again, weddings, get the 24-70L lens, either the mark I or II. Gotta have that. I'm going to start doing weddings again and I'll have to get the 24-70L II even though I have primes in that range. What are you gonna do though?

Chuck Alaimo · Jun 16, 2012

unfocused said:
Chuck Alaimo,

Basically, I don't think we are in disagreement. Like you, I've been amazed at how well these two cameras (one at $3,000 and one at $3,500) have been selling when compared to much lower priced models. I just checked the Amazon list and both are in the top 50 for all cameras and photo, which includes point and shoots. And, this at a time when the economy is still struggling.

I was simply speculating on the sustainability, given what appear to be some pretty significant market pressures that may be just around the corner (Pressures, by the way, that are self-inflicted by these two companies if they really do elect to release low-cost full frame models.)

I enjoy watching the competitive market work, observing how companies react and trying to guess where the market and companies may go next. Most product releases are pretty predictable. And, Canon and Nikon have traditionally released products that are remarkably similar at virtually identical price points. The 5DIII and D800 seemed to break that pattern. Did one of the companies make a mistake? Only time will tell. I just enjoy watching and trying to figure it all out.

Under this kind of logic, the d800 faces the same potential irrelevancy. How will a brand new cheap FF affect the market? Whether its nikon or canon, if the sub $2000 FF hits the market and the IQ isn't half bad, and that cam has a nikon name tag on it, then you should be more worried about the d800 becoming nikons 50D.

Either way, my original statement stands --- too soon to tell. If we ARE to judge this on a here and now level, the mkiii is currently ranked 4th in dslr sales at amazon - and that is far from being irrelevant.

yjchua95 · Jun 16, 2012

Lesson learnt indeed

anyway, this mishap gives me a good excuse to change the focusing screen from Ef-A to Ef-D.

JerryKnight · Jun 16, 2012

The basic rule for sharp landscapes is to use a narrow aperture -- probably between f/8 and f/16, but if you go to f/22 or beyond, diffraction will probably start to blur details.

I'm not sure what you're worried about with the autofocus. In bright sunlight, it should be next to impossible to miss focus, or you could probably manual focus fairly easily. If you have a mix of foreground/background objects, use your depth of field preview button to check focus.

As with everything other kind of shot, it never hurts to bracket, bracket, bracket. Bracket your exposures, and bracket your focus. Your LCD screen won't be a good exposure indicator, so use your histograms as well.

If you use AEB, you could even experiment with basic HDR. The in-camera HDR is interesting, but not really meant for serious use.

Daniel Flather · Jun 16, 2012

wickidwombat said:
I'm going to buy a 35L next month, I can't wait

The 35L is sweet.

Jun 15, 2012

I've been using the GP-E2 for a couple days now, and it's been pretty great!

It's handled some tough shots, like:

Random Industrial Building by RyanCrierie, on Flickr

Taken from inside a speeding school bus -- the GP-E2 successfully logged the location right away, despite it not having a full view of the sky inside a metallic vehicle.

Another shot was this one:

Cross Street Market Seafood Bar #1 by RyanCrierie, on Flickr

Taken inside the City Street Market in Baltimore, MD. The GP-E2 successfully logged the correctish location inside the market, despite having very little sky view at all.

You can see the uncorrected GPS Lat/long coordinates if you click on the "map" area in flickr.

It's literally turn on and shoot right away and compared to my other GPS gadgets:

A.) Garmin Nuvi Car GPS from 2008 -- the Garmin requires 40~ seconds or more to lock onto a satellite after a cold start; whereas the GP-E2 locks on virtually instantly.

B.) GPS in my Acer A200 Tablet -- it doesn't work inside a vehicle or inside buildings. Meanwhile, the GP-E2 can lock on even in such degraded conditions, such as the City Street Market's interior.

ed24 · Jun 15, 2012

I pray that the new lenses don't suffer from that horrible recoil after the lens has finished hunting for focus.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jun 15, 2012

kriptikracing said:
Just called today to buy a 60D through the canon loyalty program...the sales guy said they are doing an annual inventory check that will take a few days. He said they started yesterday so probably won't be back up until Monday.

That makes sense. Thanks for posting the info

bdunbar79 · Jun 15, 2012

briansquibb said:
I love it - I say what my 'opinion' is - and I get accused of stating it as fact

I ask a simple question and I get quoted the Canon marketing release - so obviously no opinion there then.

dilbert, what's the deal? You don't know any more for fact that anyone else on this forum. Afterall, did you not notice the word "rumors" in the website title? I enjoy opinions personally. If you want just cold hard facts, you're in the wrong place.

Now what I'm really curious to see is the 1D body they mention. Or will it not be a 1D, maybe a 3D? Who knows.

Jun 15, 2012

I read somewhere that it does both the old IR method, as well as the new RF flashes.

Axilrod · Jun 15, 2012

Jesse said:
Yeah that's what I thought, I guess I should learn how to work the custom setting then.

It would probably be better to set a custom setting for the video, since the settings tend to fluctuate more with stills. So you could be shooting stills in M mode and then switch to your C1 video settings and when you go back to M mode everything will be as it was. All you have to do is go to manual mode and set everything up for video, then go to register custom settings and set it to C1 (or 2 or 3).

mattbru · Jun 15, 2012

I've been searching YouTube for some STM focus examples with the T4i, and it seems pretty hard to find a quality video. This is the best I could find.

Canon EOS 650D STM
Canon T4i Auto focus demonstration
Canon EOS 650D Movie Continue AF Test

I'd like to see how fast the STM is in not only the hybrid live view, but standard phase AF. I'd like to see examples of it on a non-T4i as well, such as 5d2/3 for focus speed.

Razor2012 · Jun 15, 2012

DianeK said:
neuroanatomist said:

Those chicks don't seem to be wearing clothes...

Click to expand...

Obviously in the future I will have to be careful to post images that aren't as easily, how shall I say, subject to "interpretation" :
Diane

Sorry Diane, Neuro is a bad influence on me. 8)

Renato · Jun 15, 2012

I have learned that with the EF 300 f/4 you cannot register the AF Microadjustment for the lens with a Kenko extender. I calibrated my EF 300 f/4 plus Kenko 2X Telepluspro 300 and then registered the microadjustment. Immediately my camera locked and would not focus so what I had to do is take the battery out, take away the AF Microadjustment and put a generic adjustment (ALL) for this lens. Luckily the microadjustment for the lens alone is +14 and the lens with the Kenko extender is +12 so I set the micradjustment to ALL at +13. Now every time I put another lens that has a microadjustment I have to enable the automatic adjustment function. Otherwise the Keno extender works flawless with my EF lens. Also note that the Kenko that I used (2X Telepluspro 300 DGX) does not work with lenses that are not telephotos. If you want to use a Kenko with a 50 mm or smaller you have to get a different extender.

Here are the specifications for the Kenko I use 2X: http://www.kenkoglobal.com/TP-PRO300AF-DGX1_4-2X.html

Tayvin · Jun 15, 2012

briansquibb said:
Sycotek said:

I'm with you on that one Mate - I'll be getting one of these to compliment my 1DX (seeing as the 5d3 was a failure in my experience) - guarantee the read noise on the d600 will be better then anything canon has out at the moment. And tbh nikkor lenses really aren't that bad lol!

If they fix their AF unit it will be a decent cheap FF - if its plagued like the d800/d4, then I start to second guess.

The d800 is pointless for me - i don't want or need to deal with 70MB raw files.

If Canon bring out a studio camera between now and then - my money will go there.

Click to expand...

I am sticking with my near zero noise at iso 50-200 1DS3 until there is a replacement

Agreed. The 1DS3 is the finest DSLR Canon has made. I miss mine.

awinphoto · Jun 15, 2012

Real world is that the lens should be fine... it looks better on the 60D because it's a crop camera and getting the sweet spot of the lens... On FF you get the extreme edges of the lens, and that will vary from lens type to lens type... In this situation it kinda shows the weakness of the zooms vs the strength of the L prime teles, but by all means the 70-300L is still admirably good for a zoom. On the 5d3 and 1dx, teleconverters maybe an issue, but otherwise it should be a pretty decent lens. Other lenses may or may not work as well as your 70-300L, but that's another topic.

Jun 15, 2012

KyleSTL said:
I would say the 18-135mm is a much more useful range, and is likely to be as sharp or sharper than the old 28-135mm design (1998). Since the STM motor is a new thing, there aren't any reviews on it yet, but I am guessing it will be just about as good as USM.

It will likely be slower than ring USM, I think. I'm also not sure that it will be quite as accurate, since a stepper motor is an open loop (no feedback to the controller). Defnintely better for video, though.

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