Posts

tomscott · Jan 1, 2013

My BG-E2N got stuck on my 40D, half way unscrewed so it would not turn on.

The problem is over tightening or over use. The main cog is plastic and the smaller one is metal so it strips. Only way i could get it off was by drilling a hole through the visible cog and un-tighten the smaller cog with a screw driver. Broke the grip, but they are pretty cheap now.

You can see the metal cog here.

Kernuak · Jan 1, 2013

Happy New Year. I celebrated by letting a friend persuade me to go "swimming" in a sea-filled lake

. At least it wasn't raining like it has been for most of the year or snowing. The temperature had dropped compared to recently though, but it was still a balmy 5 or 6 Celsius.

enice128 · Jan 1, 2013

I use clear uv filters on ALL my glass! Make sure its a good quality one, at least spend the $ on a b&w one! The least u can do is protect ur expensive glass. The less expensive filters will effect the quality of ur images plus god forbid u bang the front element u only damage the filter not the lens!

Michael_pfh · Jan 1, 2013

On my 1D4 the 135L focusses very quickly and accurately. This lens is simply great value for money.

stefsan · Jan 1, 2013

Very handy, thanks for posting!

Northstar · Jan 1, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Northstar said:

I so so so so frequently have to boost exposure in pp by 1/2 stop if I've decided to shoot auto iso in "m".

Click to expand...

As I said, you can correct it with an AE microadjustment, which basically sets the zero point for the camera's meter where you want it.

I will be doing this...thanks again.

rpt · Dec 31, 2012

serendipidy said:
The tiger works for Nikon ;D

LOL!

Dec 31, 2012

I recall something about needing to disable silent shooting in live view with TS-E lenses, but I thought the new ones (17 and 24 II) were exempt, so that's probably not it...

Even though restoring defaults fixes it, it could certainly be a firmware bug. For example, the AFMA bug that was fixed with firmware 1.0.6 was triggered by enabling the orientation-linked AF point setting. If you can reproduce the behavior based on a single setting, that will help Canon (and the rest of us, eventually). If not, you might still contact Canon and offer to email your settings file to them for testing.

skitron · Dec 31, 2012

neuroanatomist said:
It's more prominent with smaller light sources when the focus distance is close and the light sources are also close, but still OOF.

True, and I inadventently had a nice 'test lab' this year since our tree had both clear miniature lights and the larger old skool solid color c4 lights. The mini - which as far as light sources goes is both the visible filament and the reflection of the filament in the clear glass - has some onion effect while the larger uniform light source c4 bulbs are perfectly smooth. Moral to the story is string your tree with c4 bulbs next year for premium quality bokeh, lol.

RC · Dec 31, 2012

Thanks for all for the feedback! Glad to know that I'm not missing anything with the 1.4 Mk II Extender on the 70-200 II.

Now I recall reading that the Mk IIIs were optimized mostly for the real big whites.

ahab1372 · Dec 31, 2012

neuroanatomist said:
How are you determining that the dark frame is done? After the exposure and a few seconds into the dark frame, the read LCD comes back on (showing the quick control menu). Last night, that's when I stopped the timer - I was holding the camera, and my hand was covering the red light. :-[ But, the red light is still on and the 'shots remaining' display flashes until the dark frame is done, and the review image is displayed. To confirm, on both my 7D and my 1D X, with long exposure NR enabled (not Auto), the dark frame is the same duration as the exposure setting.

So...I recommend checking again, timing from the shutter/mirror click until the red light goes out and the review image shows up - that should be the same length of time as the exposure was set. If not, I'd call Canon.

Not sure if it applies to 7D/5D/1D, but on the Rebel it helps to turn on Live View. You get a second "clack" at the end of the dark frame, and the display says "BUSY" while it is taking the dark frame

revup67 · Dec 31, 2012

and I'm wondering whether the 5dmk III will be enough speed (FPS) and reach for zoos and birds in flight.

I see this question all the time..I personally do BIF almost weekly with a 400mm 5.6 L prime and the 5DM3 (graduated from the 7D though still have both). Once you shoot with the 5D you'll forget all about that crop factor at 1.6 and the extra reach worry. The IQ of the 5DM3 stomps all over the 7D, the AI Servo settings in the 5D are incredible (6 Cases with tweaking on each..go here http://www.garyluhm.net/bio/tips_0512.html. The FPS is slightly lower than the 7D but the accuracy is better with Ai Servo on the 5D provided you've got the right settings. I've used my 7D twice in 6 months and have a hard time picking it up after going FF... I used to be on the other side of the fence and its most difficult to hop back over.

mingyuansung · Dec 31, 2012

I have read couple similar cases for 5d3 + 85L. I have the same issue for 5D3 with 50L. I reported in another thread http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=11969.0

So if it is convenient for you, you can try Canon Service center and let us know the result. Since I need to spend nearly a whole day drive back and forth there, I have not tried them. I called though.

I researched another forum and read couple other people's experiences and talked to Canon Service center. 5D3 has micro adjusted out side focus points (not center focus point) in order to fix those F1.2 lens back focus issue. This is confirmed with Canon Service center.

So my conclusion is if the lens itself has back focus issue, it will be fixed on 5D3 and perfect. If the lens has no back focus, you will get front focus on 5D3. And as well as 1Dx. The only fix is if Canon Service center would spend time to adjust your camera setting with your lens. It is a case by case issue and it does take time. So that is the reason I am afraid I would waste my time with the service center.

So I would suggest: 1. return the lens if possible. 2. try more copies if you can. people do report all accurate focus points with your combination. 3. use center focus point and crop. 4. try Canon Service center.

After spending good money and expectation, I can feel your pain. Take care.

Axilrod · Dec 31, 2012

crasher8 said:
Sure, who knows what it will cost, hell it's ALL speculation. Nobody knows Sh_t about this lens. Nobody.

No one knows for sure but you can still make an educated guess based on pricing of recent Canon gear and pricing of similar equipment from other manufacturers. Nikon 14-24 is $2k, it's safe to say that the Canon will cost at least that much. But based on recent pricing it's safe to guess that it will be slightly more, so $2499 doesn't sound unreasonable and isn't a complete shot in the dark.

jhanken · Dec 31, 2012

Having had pretty much the same problem, I just ordered two Yongnuo YN-622C's. Depending on your location, you should be able to get them for anywhere between 80 and 100 USD for the pair. Anything cheaper will be far less versatile. Most alternatives with equal functionality are more expensive (Pocket Wizards, Phottix Odin) or again less functional (Phottix Strato, older YN's). Flip side is that build quality of YN is far from stellar.

My copy of the Yongnuo YN-622C worked for a while on my 5D classic, now when I mate them, my 5D goes into hang cycle when I push the shutter release, like it is trying to save a photo to the card but cannot. I won't try it again out of fear it will bonk by camera. I use the Cactus V5, they work great if you don't need TTL.

Imagination_landB · Dec 31, 2012

The canon store has the 5D mark III refurbished for 2239$

Stu_bert · Dec 31, 2012

paul13walnut5 said:
Or Canon. Or panasonic.

We'll find out by the end of 2013 (assuming it is announced ahead of release)

agierke · Dec 31, 2012

I am surprised that neither Rockwell.....

Common guys,...we rely on you for information.

had to laugh at that one.

HoneyBadger · Dec 31, 2012

I just got mine out and tested it. Here is what happens. Under autofocus it makes noise when the camera does it. It makes no noise when I move it myself. Under manual focus, it makes the same noise as if it was under autofocus and the camera was moving it. So, YES it does make noise in manual mode and it is quite loud. I am using it on a 5dIII with the updated firmware.

Dec 31, 2012

Albi86 said:
My premise was that the 6D is capable of very good IQ - as the 5D2 already was 4 years ago. There's really no surprise about that, being a well-established technology.

What concerns me is how users' opinions vary awfully depending on the brand. In the numerous 5D3 vs D600/D800 debates, Nikon cameras where found faulty exactly in those segments in which the 6D is even faultier (e.g. AF, weather sealing, build quality, etc). All those valid arguments - apparently - no not apply to products with Canon branding. On top on that, the 6D cannot compensate with cutting edge sensor performance and it's a full 300€ more expensive than the D600.

All my favourite lenses are 3rd party (except the 135/2), so I very much don't care about the brand of my body. I'm still undecisive whether to buy a 5D3 or a D600, but if it was D600 or 6D, I would really have very few doubts. Considering the 6D is mainly aimed at crop-upgraders, I'm really dubious about what the concrete reasons for not switching system are

I think you should buy a D600.

jonathan7007 · Dec 31, 2012

Clive,
I saw the link to your review/research in another thread and plan to read it. Thanks for posting the link again.

Here, though, I want to ask if -- in combined use with Speedlites -- anyone has fired all lights by using an extra Odin receiver [in some way plugged into] their studio-style pack. The Odins and Yongnuo units expect a hotshoe but I think a "hotshoe-to-whatever" adapter exists. My Normans expect a household-style (male) two-prong cord just like an AC cord.

jonathan7007

BL · Dec 31, 2012

fantastic, much obliged for the valuable feedback!

looks like i'll be sticking with the 5Dc for this generation. i too have had favorable results using the center point, but was hoping the 6D offered something different in regards to AF and outer points.

thanks again!

zim · Dec 30, 2012

verysimplejason said:
zim said:

You don’t have to get the latest a greatest galaxy to get good photos, I’m sure I posted elsewhere on here but for an experiment I got a display walls worth of 16x12s printed for a school trip my wife was running and I was amazed at the (relative) quality of them, didn’t think they would stand up to that sort of enlargement but hey they were loved by the intended audience. It goes without saying that photos intended for the interweb are just fine too. The biggest problem with all camera phones for me is shutter lag so she’s got an app that purports to help but I think it just cripples the res. I also hate holding at arm’s length, it’s just the most rubbish way to take a photo. That’s why I think the ‘M’ is such a joke it’s got the worst two features of a camera phone and you can’t even make a call with it

Click to expand...

I don't think holding at arms length is a rubbish way to take photos. Live view is a very good way of taking landscape photos. Also, it depends on the preference of the user. It might not be for you but don't generalize. A lot of users are fine with taking pictures using a live view.

Yeh live view with a bleedin tripod!
I’m not generalising Jason, It’s my opinion. I struggle to think of a less stable way of taking a photograph. Oh wait standing on one leg whilst holding a camera at arms length… yip that would do it ;D