Julie G. said:

Random Orbits said:

Julie G. said:

Why do you need a FF? What are you missing on your current camera? The 60D is a great camera. Especially if you don't have the option of buying and selling used equipment, going FF is going to be expencive.

What I think you are missing is something in the wider end and something in the tele end. You should definitely keep the 50. My experience is that F4 is not fast enough for low light indoor photos. But again I live in Norway, and I'm guessing Brazil is a bit lighter
1. You can go for the 17-40 (it's a great value), but you don't have the big aperture
2. Get a wider prime (ex. around 24-35mm) like the Sigma 30mm F1.4 and get the 70-200mm F4L NON-IS. The combo is slightly more expensive, but both are pretty good lenses. The 70-200 is really sharp and the 30mm has a wide aperture.

The 50 you've got is a good portrait lens.

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The 60D lacks AFMA. Getting fast primes to match it well is hard. If he is looking to use fast primes, a different body (crop or FF) with AFMA would be important. I did not realize how much sharper my lenses were until I switched to a body that had AFMA. It mattered with f/2.8 lenses and it definitely matters more with f/1.2 or f/1.4 lenses.

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Ah, that explains it. I usually focus manually, so I haven't felt the need to adjust the AF.

So camera body choices would be: correct me if I'm wrong
- 7D
- 5D Mark II
- 1D Mark III
- 6D
- 5D Mark III
- 1D Mark IV

The final choice is personal and depending on budget, AF needs, weather sealing, ISO, Crop or FF etc. If you can't buy used, some of these will be out of the question (5D2, 1D3, 1D4).

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as i were you, i would not list 1d mark iii as an option, but 1ds mark iii

ZoeEnPhos said:

neuroanatomist said:

dr croubie said:

But with the 600mm + 1.4TC delivering almost as good IQ, there's not going to be many more sales of the 800mm (except for those who 'must' have 1600mm).

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Actually, I think the 600/4 II + 1.4xIII actually delivers slightly better IQ than the 800/5.6, and the 600/4 II + 1.4xIII delivers better IQ than the 800/5.6 + 1.4xIII, as well. In both cases, in addition to better IQ, the 600+TC is lighter, cheaper, and slightly longer in focal length. So, the 800/5.6 really has no remaining advantages, except as you note to achieve 1600mm (at the cost of loss of AF at f/11 and a big IQ hit, such that cropping from 1200mm is probably better).

Personally, I think it's likely we'll see an updated 800/5.6 sooner than expected, and the main reason is that the current one cannot compete with the new 600 II (and secondarily, because Nikon is releasing one).

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Hello Neuroanatomist!
Thank you again for your very good thoughts - as always coming from you sir!

Expecting a brand new and also better Canon EF800/5.6L that has the new sophisticated/complex optical design(as in EF600mm f/4L IS USM II),
that features (2) fluorite and UD lens elements to tackle aberrations and distortions,
and also features a lightweight magnesium alloy and titanium construction,
which reduces weight without compromising on strength and build quality - so I think I rather wait to maybe purchasing this new EF800, instead of one of the existing new ones version II super-lenses from Canon?

Let us see what the future holds!

Happy shootings!

C

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hmm...I think the only major improvement Canon can make on the 800mm is reduce the weight tremendously. No reason why it could not weigh around what the 500mm II does. The third IS mode and removal of the protection glass element would make it in to a new 800mm too. As far as optical design though, the current 800mm already has 2 fluorite elements and super UD elements.

One other welcome change would be to better balance the lens...try making it a 55/45 weight distribution. That is really my only complaint with the current 800mm; it's very front heavy.

well the sensor is good. just not the camera around it.....

I recently purchased the YN622C triggers and I couldn't be any happier. At first I was going for the PW's flex and mini but that would have cost me around $350+ for the set. I knew about Yongnuo's RC622C transceivers but I wasn't sure if they'd do the same thing. I bought them off eBay for $79 and works perfectly. The operations are straight forward and very similar to the ones from Pixel Kings. Heck, in fact the designs are pretty similar.

Anyways, I have one mounted on camera, and another one has my speedlite 580 EXII attached to it which is off camera. You can access full flash menu right from your camera and control your speedlite from there through these YN622C transceivers. I like quality, not bad at all for something that's 1/4th the price of similar PW systems. I would have bought the Pixel King ones but they yet dont support 5DIII like the YN622C does. Both Pixel King and Yongnuos are made in China btw.

Radiating said:

So far I've been disappointed with the 24 & 28mm IS, while they have better quality than the lenses they replace by far, the way people say they have L image quality is misleading. They have the most entry level L quality and their L counterparts primes are much better.

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How do you quantify that? The photozone review showed that the 28 IS resolution (they haven't tested the 24 IS yet) was similar to the 24L at comparable apertures, and it tested well in other respects- CA, bokeh etc. So is there something else undefined that makes the L better? The 24 and 28 IS lenses, whilst expensive for what they are are still around half the price of the L and far more compact (and likely to get cheaper over time). The points also apply to the new 35 f2, though obviously there are no reviews for that one yet.

Thanks guys for your comments and advices Now, i know the 5D mark III is my choice, i have to think about the best option in terms of lens to couple with...

Canon EOS Rebel T4i Canon EOS Rebel 60D
Image processor New DIGIC5 DIGIC 4
Screen TouchScreen TFT LCD
Sensor 18mp hybrid CMOS 18mp CMOS
Video autofocus Phase detection None
In-camera HDR Yes No
longer battery life 440 shots 1100 shots
Much faster max shutter speed 1/4000s 1/8000s
For those who wish to shoot video, the T4i may be a better choice as it is Canon’s only model that offers the capacity for autofocus even while in video mode. In addition, the T4i’s touch screen is pretty cool, and shows just how far the cameras of today have come. Although the T4i has a lower price point that the 60D and weighs less than other models, it is still a durable piece of equipment that has a reputation for being quite reliable.
herehttp://t4ivst3i.com/canon-rebel-eos-t4i-vs-60d-comparison/ list the difference betwwen them

The 17-55 has some nice features, 2.8 & IS, but the build quality is not good. It's a shame, such good optics in such a poor housing. It's better than the 18-55 kit lens, but not better than the 15-85 lens, and no where as good as the 17-40. I just use the 17-55 indoors, I won't take it to weddings as it's just not durable enough and too expensive to risk, IMO (I'm a wedding photographer). But if you treat it gently, it will provide good images. Of course, it won't allow you to upgrade to a full frame, you'll have to buy a new lens for that. So if you might want a full frame in your future, the 17-40 might be a better long term option.

I found on the 60D with the 580EX II that my flash wasn't sitting exactly in the right place in my hot shoe. There was a little wiggle in the position, and that causes the AF assist beam to miss the AF point. Try focusing in a dark room on a white wall, see if your focus assist beam actually hits your selected AF point. Not sure if this is your issue, but it solved my problem.

stick was always rubbing up on my clothes and inadvertently setting my AF points weird as it bounced around during a shoot

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True. I've never had a camera with a joystick (hey, im 13) but when going over all the specs and looking at the images, I saw that canon had made some adjustments. They finally figured it out!

Yes but I'm unusual .

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I'll say. The only time I EVER turn IS off is when I'm shooting a long exposure at night (w/ the camera on a tripod of course). Plus, even if you have the steadiest monopod and an f/0.6 lens, IS will still help you.

Cory said:

My T1i along with its 135 f2 lens is remarkable for indoor sports regardless of conditions. Getting world-class results. If I could only figure out which zoom to get for outdoor sports.

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Try the 120-300mm f/2.8 OS. It is expensive though, and if you can afford that you probably would do well to look into a 7D as well. A cheaper zoom in that range is more likely; Canon 100-400mm could work, as could a 70-300mm.

I just want to say thank you to all that have replied, it has really helped. At this point I'm going Canon. Hope to interact with you guys in the future. Thanks again!

Nikon one has more horsepower with less carbon dioxide emission!

Sent my 5D II to California facility November 1, they received it 5th/Monday and by 7th had looked at it and sent me the estimate and bill deal which I paid that same day. Nothing since then, which is more than doubling the time my 10-22 just took. Finally called today as I'd have hoped to had this by Thanks Giving weekend. Was told they've had a back up there because of Sandy and they hope to get to it soon. For what it is worth, for anyone sending there or have recently sent there.

neuroanatomist said:

I don't believe Canon does 'stealth' updates.

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Not the hardware itself, but they might have ironed out some production variances (like more or less sharp corners) - the idea came to me when the discussion was if the 24-70 mk1 was sharp @f2.8 or not and some people said they couldn't be happier with recently produced samples.

But obviously nothing specific is known about the 17-40 so I'll just ignore the production date - thanks!

deeter said:

Can anyone explain to me why when I set my 5D II to TV mode, set a shutter speed of say 1/800 and take a picture it adjusts the shutter speed? Shouldn't it stay where I set it? I had an epic wildlife photo today but missed it because my camera adjusted my shutter speed. I was shooting in TV mode at 1/800 ISO 200 100-400 4.5-5.6 Lens and when I took the shot it adjusted to 1/20? ??? ? I am obviously missing something. Thanks for the advice in advance!!

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The image would be black at those settings. You would not have had anything at 1/800 sec but black.
You likely needed ISO 12800.
If you look thru the viewfinder or top lcd display, you will see the aperture flashing to tell you that you can't get the image at that setting.

SDsc0rch thank you for the reply great stuff!


Question, I know how to register an AF point (which will stay lit), I have the "joystick" so that when I press it, it goes to my center focus point...

How do you assign a 3rd AF point?

regards

Read the manual.

Well, if you want the most bang for your buck, a 5DII for a grand is an excellent deal: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/11/black-friday-sale-2?utm_source=LensRentals.com+Newsletter&utm_campaign=a3a9758161-Black_Friday_211_19_2012&utm_medium=email

My input is get both the Canon 17-40L and the Sigma 50mm 1.4 for about the same or less than your choices, then when you are ready/able to get your next lens, sell one of these, take maybe a $100 loss on the trade, and get the appropriate Canon upgrade for the one you sold. Then repeat for the second lens you aspire to. The key here is for all that time, you will have enjoyed about 90% of the benefit of having your cake and eating it too with both lenses, and at the end of it you basically get to the same place for about the same cost.

The Sigma lens is friggen awesome, btw. Truly stupendous. And it focuses faster than the 1.2. You may decide to suffer the indignity of not sporting the red ring and just own that sucker for good.

Also, I find that if you take reasonable care of your lenses, eBay is a great way to monetize what you don't need any more. People actually get silly with how much they will pay for used stuff, often paying more than the rebate prices for new lenses with warranties.

Hobby Shooter said:

Ah thanks, might try the DPP and download the lens correction profiles, but if I save it to the cr2 file in DPP, can I pick it up in LR and continue editing? Would you think it's worth the extra work as opposed to just do it all in LR?

@mirekti, wouldn't you just select all files in the Develop mode and there tick the Enable Profile Corrections box?

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No, LR won't be able to recognize the lens corrections done by DPP. You need to export it from DPP as JPEG or TIFF then edit it with LR if you want to further edit the picture.

littlepilotdude said:

I shoot portraits, but I also shoot just general subjects.

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The f/4 IS is much more practical for me. Great lens! Smaller, lighter and cheaper, and it has IS. With improved high ISO performance on newer cameras, the f/2.8 version is less of a necessity than it used to be. I would not buy the f/2.8 version without IS.

Some months ago, I noticed that Myer were having a 20% off sale in their camera department, so I went in and asked if they had a 5D MkIII in stock.
The guy checked up and said that they didn't have any of them in stock, but could order one in for me.
I asked if he ordered it, would I still get 20% off the RRP, and he said yes I would.
So, I ordered my 5D3 from him and 4 days later it arrived in and I ended up saving around $400 from the cheapest Aussie stock I could find at the time, and I even got a $75.00 gift card with it as an extra bonus.

Sometimes, you have to keep your nose to the ground to get the best deals, and sometimes, they come from the most unexpected places.

Thanks for the input guys. I think you are both correct. I'll probably buy one locally when I'm ready.