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squarebox · Apr 12, 2012

Dylan777 said:
Daniel Flather said:

Sell it all but the 50/1.4 and buy a 5d3. You can run with that and add later. No need in buying things twice, or in your case, three times.

Click to expand...

I agreed....my 50mm f1.4 has been working overtime, since I got the 5D III. I'm enjoying mine 5D III VERY MUCH.

Future gear:
5D III
24-70 f2.8 II - (will sell my 24-105 and use the money toward to new 24-70)
70-200 f2.8 IS II
50mm f1.4 - (maybe 50L, still enjoy my f1.4)

yeah dylan, this is where i'm heading.

Apr 12, 2012

ordered mine on 3/5 and received it today from B&H.

Apr 12, 2012

I ordered at Adorama on the 4th of April and I got an email that says it's packed, don't know what that means since they are close for the Passover, means I will cancel my B&H pre order, which i did on the 14th of March. I did call Adorama on April 3 and spoke to one of the sales people(Mike F) he was awesome enough to give me a heads up that they're pre orders are mostly covered and if you place one you'll likely get yours within the month of April, I could've gotten one locally but taxes are about the same cost for some Pocket Wizards.

Apr 12, 2012

LetTheRightLensIn said:
https://vimeo.com/39953108

Download the original version to avoid the nasty vimeo compression!

If you get yourself an expensive anamorphic lens and want to shoot those ratios this certainly sharpen things up fully along one axis and improve noise performance yet even more.

Boy he really went wide, WIDE format there. Not the typical 2.35/2.40:1 but 2.66:1.

Looks good!

I bought his anamorphic online guide awhile back. It's very informative.

TexPhoto · Apr 12, 2012

FarQinell said:
Thanks.

Just a thought - if the AF works at max aperture (before stopping down to the desired aperture) and since the depth of field at f2.8 is a lot less than at f4 does that mean that the 100% full size images on the 400/2.8 are "sharper" than on the other big ones?

Anybody there to correct me on this!?

Well, sort of. It should be able to focus more accurately at f2.8 than a 5.6. and so shooting it at 5.6, it still focuses at 2.8, so it should focus a little more accurately. And certainly can focus in lower light.

I shoot a lot of night games, and f2.8 lenses seem to do great, and f4 lenses no so much. f5.6 lenses just bad.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 11, 2012

It is 4K ready, and is not ready to spring into 4K action once the firmware arrives.

It has a proprietary 4K output that can only be recorded externally, you guessed it--- with a new sony video recorder that is yet to be announced, and will cost $$$$. Presumably, they will have some sort of converter that makes the output editable.

Anyone believing that they will get 4K Capability for $8-10K is going to be in for a shock. However, all ready to go, it might be $14-16K which is not bad.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 11, 2012

Canon-F1 said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:

Sony is a bigger company than Canon

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last time i checked canon had more employees then sony.

so i wonder what are your referring too when you say bigger?

sony total equity : US$ 30.74 billion

in total assets sony is bigger yes... for what it´s worth when you make loss year after year.
we will see what is left after the consolidation.

Bigger in total value. Its hard to pin down number of employees with the complex scheme of companies owning companies owning companies and so forth.

As I noted, Sony is not going to be able to outspend Canon on research and development in the imaging area, but they do have fantastic manufacturing capabilities, and own the makers of the electronic components that go into their products. They just seem to be totally mismanaged, and over the years you can dig a deep hole.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 11, 2012

Canon has refurb stations around the world where they are tested and repaired. Don't expect to see them soon, since spare parts are probably not available in large quantities.

Some of the cameras may also appear at sleazy web sellers stores and sold as new. That used to be common, they would have a connection with a authorized reseller and buy the returned ones that seemed to work for resale. It happened to me once, after that it was B&H, Adorama, and the many good camera stores. Back then, I did not know which was which, there was no Internet - well, I actually had used it while setup in its early mode before it was publically available, but only for a very few functions, since it was all Unix commands, not even Gopher as I recall, just newsgroups at universities and a few tech companies.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 11, 2012

Its not a common practice for any manufacturer to sell the parts of a assembly, be it a camera strap, or a automotive assembly. Chevy does not sell components for the circuit boards on their car computers, for example, even though you might be able to install it in 30 seconds.

Apr 11, 2012

Wow - that guy is asking $1750 for that lens. I paid $50 for mine. Somehow I don't think he's going to get the $1750.

I've been googling on this. It seems the market for these broadcast video lenses has collapsed because nobody wants lenses that aren't designed for HD.

But I'll bet the better ones still work pretty well at HD, depending on the pixel pitch of the sensor. At $50 it's a toy I can experiment with.

Jon - here's what I've learned so far:

1 - The flange focal distance (flange to image plane, aka 'register') is supposed to be 20mm, which matches what I measured. To mount it on a camera with an adapter, you need a camera with a flange distance shorter than that, to allow some room for an adapter.

20mm rules out all standard DSLR bodies. According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance, the only mounts with a flange distance less than 20 mm are:

Micro 4/3, 19.25mm
Sony E-mount (Sony NEX), 18mm
Fuji X-mount (Fuji X10), 17.7mm
C-mount (video/cine), 17.52mm
Nikon CX (Nikon 1) mount, 17mm
Pentax Q mount, 9.2mm

2 - The image circle is designed for a 1/2 inch CCD (4:3), which is 8mm diagonal. See the attached spreadsheet I made (info collected online) - according to that, the ONLY modern interchangable lens digital camera that won't vignette with that lens (because the sensor is < 8mm diagonal) is the Pentax Q. (Which I think is a crappy camera.)

So the compromise I'm thinking of is to mount it on a Nikon V1 or J1. It'll still vignette like crazy, but I can crop afterwards. Micro 4/3 should work too, but the pixels are so big and the sensor is so large compared to the image circle, that I think there won't be many pixels left after cropping.

3 - There do seem to be a few adapters out there. But they are incredibly expensive:

Here's one to adapt the JVC 1/2" bayonet to Nikon - it's $590 (!!):
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/77577-REG/Century_Precision_Optics_0LA_N120_00_LA_N120_Nikon_to_1_2.html

And here's one to adapt it to C-mount - $424:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/77584-REG/Century_Precision_Optics_0LA_12BC_00_LA_12BC_1_2_Bayonet_to.html

(C-mount adapters for cameras are easy to find and cheap on eBay.)

Those are the best prices I found.

Since I only paid $50 for the lens, I'm not going to even consider those.

The mount is attached by 8 screws. I think I'll try to take it off and see if I can jerry-rig something...

AG · Apr 11, 2012

Mt Spokane Photography said:
AG said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

With Canon, lower numbered models are the high end ones. A C100 would likely be a flagship model while a C500 a low end model. Perhaps a 5D MK III sensor with high end body fast frame rates and 4K??

Click to expand...

True for Photography but could it be possible for them to change that with the Cinema EOS segment?

I have a feeling the low end will be a C300 but with limited outputs (no HD:SDI for example), basically what you find on the side of the 1D series currently. It will have the same 1080p C300 sensor but crammed into a 1D style body, with EF mount only.

Click to expand...

You have a point, professional cam corders seem to have higher numbers with higher prices, but its not consistent.

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/camcorders/professional_camcorders

Looks like i was close...

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=5590.msg106922#msg106922

Christian_Stella · Apr 11, 2012

Marvin... I will definitely look into PFClean... sounds very, very interesting. There were three things that really got me on this mission to squeeze the best out of the 5d2 on the tiny budget we have... 1. The movie turned out much better than I even thought it would and I don't want to be the weak link in the chain. 2. All of the recent talk about the actual resolved detail of the 5d2 and 5d3 being as low as 800p and wanting to squeeze as much as I can out of that. I wish the sharpening I can add to 5d3 footage was a viable option for the 5d2 footage, but it just brings out the aliasing. 3. Dark Energy! I would kill to just run our movie through Dark Energy, but we're simply not in that league yet. Unless I can find a post-production house willing to take us in at a steep discount. So I've been on a quest to get a micro-budget version of those results. We'll never look like the 13 million dollar Act of Valor, but I want to eek out as much quality as humanly possible in our price-range... especially since I've had a few months of down-time as things were getting tweaked.

MinorKey... I've gotten very simple with color grading lately. I'm basically using Red Giant's Colorista's three way color corrector... for that shot to pull the shadows toward green and mids/highlights toward orange. The actor came very sunburnt that day, so I did additional correction using Colorista's HSL controls. Looking at it now, I'd probably pull the saturation in his skin tones down a little more now... or maybe the saturation in the whole shot. I almost always lower the contrast further and raise the shadows with RGB curves. as I don't want the blacks too black. I really want this movie to have a slightly vintage, woodsy feeling. I use Red Giant's Magic Bullet Looks for making quick exposure masks, exposure gradients, or adding diffusion from a window... some of the more intense stuff that Colorista can't do, but that's not on that shot above.

Here's a video I made to show the director a color grading test... this is before I started adding grain though so you can see serious color banding on the wall. There is also some nasty aliasing on the guy in the yellow shirt's shoulder that I will hopefully be able to go in and spot blur.

http://youtu.be/80Vt-iLpajg?hd=1

Apr 11, 2012

briansquibb said:
prestonpalmer said:

Sorry Brian!! I totally mis understood why you were shooting weddings for free! I applaud what you are doing! Keep up the great work!

Click to expand...

8) 8) 8)

Tcapp · Apr 11, 2012

unkbob said:
Tcapp said:

As for the improved shutter response, I have to get used to that! I think the button is more sensitive. On more than one occasion i've just wanted to lock focus and i accidentally took a photo.

Click to expand...

Dude, use the back button for AF and disable AF on the shutter button. Seriously, it makes life so much easier

I could, but its not really a huge problem. I rather not adjust my shooting style that ive been using for years.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 11, 2012

Yes, all HDDSLR's will overhead the sensor if used for a long period of time. There is a sensor internal to the camera that will stop the video. Image quality will suffer as well.

There should be no permanent damage, just let it cool down.

You have two totally different topics, if you dropped your camera on the lens, not only will the lens have potential damage, but the lens mount and mirror box also take a hit and can be bent out of specification.

However, using your 5D MK II for more than about 30 minutes nonstop for video can overheat it. It depends on the room temperature or outdoor temperature, so the timing varies a lot. The 5D MK III has improved cooling of the sensor to allow use for longer periods without overheating.

Sony's A55 and A33 DSLRs would overheat in as little as 3 minutes!

Apr 11, 2012

It is painful just thinking about it.

Apr 11, 2012

If there is any real effect, I think it involves the polarizer.

Testing a linear polarizer (in addition to circular), at different angles would also be interesting. Check this out: http://nikonusa.com/en_US/IMG/Images/Learn-And-Explore/2012/Camera-Technology/D-SLR-Series/Moire-D800-D800E/Media/OLPF_schematic.pdf
A polarizer might stop/reduce/change the last diffusion stage (if the 5D3 works similarly). A collimator might also have interesting properties: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimator (check out the Söller collimator drawing):

Ah, interesting, another clue from the Nikon link:

By converting polarized light into circularly polarized light with the wave plate, two points are divided into four points at low-pass filter 2.

Since a circular polarizer is a linear polarizer with a 1/4 wave retarder (phase shifter, "wave plate"), curious if this might explain a real effect when a circular polarizer is placed in front of this optical assembly. Intuitively, based on testing, it could be a circular polarizer reduces the effect of the OLPF by 1/2 to 1/4.

adebrophy · Apr 11, 2012

Brilliant - thanks for that Neuroanatomist. Spot on advice!

Bosman · Apr 11, 2012

JR said:
On a more serious note as mention in other thread i would love to see a feature whereby we can highlight the focused area when shooting in live view...

not sure i get what you mean JR...

Apr 11, 2012

Minnesota Nice said:
I'll sell my kidney and other non vital body parts to get a 4K camera that can film at least at 120fps.

Hahaha!! I'm there with you! I'll even throw one ear!! as far as we are talking about a camera under $15k

JR · Apr 11, 2012

Bosman said:
JR said:

birdman said:

Maybe I'll pocket enough to go towards a 70-200/4 IS that's calling my freaking name!!

Click to expand...

Now that is a good glass that is also calling me! I will likely get it eventually....especially for summer shooting where I am more outside then during the winter...

Click to expand...

No comprendo, u have the best at the same focal lengths already...70-200mm f2.8L IS II.

Yes indeed the 2.8 version is the best but for outdoor sometime it means I need to carry it longer and weight does become an issue for me. So having the option to carry something lighter does appeal to me. If I can get away with just 135mm then I carry this one, but carrying the 70-200 2.8 to the park to plan with my daughter can become a bit on the heavy side for me.

This is why the f4 version always interested me. Then again I have yet to pull the trigger on it!

Knut Skywalker · Apr 11, 2012

Hey guys,
i recently bought a 5D2 with pre-installed firmware 2.0.9 and wanted to try the Magic Lantern Unified Beta on it. To install Magic Lantern i need firmware version 2.1.1. I've checked the web but can't find any non-canon sources to download this firmware. Canon only has the 2.1.2 firmware available in the download section.

Any ideas where i can get it?

Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany.

Knut Skywalker

psolberg · Apr 11, 2012

eosHD finally had it with the sub standard resolution of the 5DmkIII and removed the OLP filter

http://www.eoshd.com/content/7813/how-i-opened-my-5d-mark-iii-and-why-you-have-to-be-crazy-to-do-it

from his blog:

SO…Is the camera resolving closer to GH2 levels of detail without the low pass filter? I’d say I am very happy with the image so far. Absolutely no sign of moire or aliasing and a nice feel to fine detail. It is very close to the GH2 / C300. But full frame!!

very interesting.

RAKAMRAK · Apr 11, 2012

candyman said:
Positron said:

candyman said:

The naming convention made me think:

............

Click to expand...

You're almost correct. The reason .............

Click to expand...

Ok. Just a check: so if I name my files: [shooting date][prefix][number (6 digits)].CR2 is that too long with risk of filecorruption or damage to the memorycard? Especially shooting AI-servo 8fps?

Do not worry, you are not changing the file naming within the camera. Camera will still name is as _MG_XXXX.CR2 or IMG_XXXX.CR2. It is only when you are transferring the pictures to your computer that they get renames. Moreover, why use 6 digits? if you are adding [shooting date] to the then 6 digits are superfluous. Are you a professional who might capture more than 10,000 pictures on a single day, ever? If your answer is no to both then 4 digits are enough, if your answer is yes to the second part (more than 10,000 picture on a single day) then 5 digits will be enough (even if you are a professional you cannot possibly take more than or equal to 100,000 photographs a day).

expatinasia · Apr 11, 2012

Thanks for your replies everyone.

I managed to find some rainsleeves (http://optechusa.com/rainsleeve.html) here in Bangkok so will use them along with cling film and a thick plastic bag over everything to protect further.

Fingers crossed that I get some good shots and my last-minute DIY approach works!

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