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Need some help choosing a basic video kit...

cayenne said:
Hmm....take a look at Amazon.com.....and crutchfield...they both offer credit for large purchases over a certain amount for 12mos interest free.

I've bought stuff on the amazon in house credit account...and paid it off 12 mos no interest. I was going to do the camera there too...but found that crutch field has a 12 mo interest free credit card option you can apply for and get at time of purchase....give that a look, it is year round for those offers.

Also, most of the places like Adorama and B&H, seem to offer the "Bill me Later" option, which gives you 6 mo interest free....again, this offer is not seasonal. YOu just have to have decent credit to get these offers and payment plans...

HTH,

cayenne

Oh I believe that, I've checked it myself quite a while ago, though I live in the third-world so we don't even get to buy at these stores here ;D (I suppose I could work something with Amazon - until they decide to make an actual store here, but with all the tax it would end up being more expensive than just buying it from a random retailer here -_-)
I'll probably pull the trigger on the MK3 around when summer starts, just so I can save for at least half the value of the cam :)
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Anyone know how to fix focus LED on 550D?

koolman said:
I have a 550d - and had the same problem. As everyone here is saying - its probably the focusing screen. On the 550d (as apposed to the 60d which you could probably do yourself) its a little trickier to exchange screens and install a new one - best to have a service person do this for you.

Its very easy and quick to replace a focus screen on the 550D. There is a installation guide here.

http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/item--Canon-550D-T2i-Focusing-Screen--prod_550D.html

If the focus screen is out of place, it is really easy to spot.

Led's do fail, the average one lasts almost forever, but some fail after 5 minutes. There are other failure points that could cause a led to fail to light up as well, if the focus screen is in place, send it to a repairman.
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Looking for advice.

prestonpalmer said:
Wideopen said:
Definitely get the 50mm F1.4 or even the 85mm F1.8 They are both excellent primes.

Agreed. Both are great lenses for starting out. They will work well for wedding photography!
I agree with these guys. I had the 50mm F/1.4 and used it all the time. I now have the 50mm F/1.2L and like it only slightly better. These two lenses will compliment your 135mm nicely.
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what custom fn.s are you using on you mark III

the-ninth said:
Nothing fancy here either. Like RunAndGun I have the electronic level on M.fn, focus point selection on the multi-controller and selection of focus mode on main dial. The DOF preview does the one-shot/servo switch for me. The quick control dial does ISO change in Av/Tv. I changed the AE lock button to "AE lock (hold)". Set button does magnification.

That is it. I am a bit sad about the unused AF-ON button, Canon does not provide any function here that would be useful to me.

Cheers, Robert
WHAT?
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Noob first Canon camera: 5DMk3, You can't use the RAW stills yet?

rporterfield said:
For the free upgrade see this link: http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/upgrade-policy-product-announcement.html

I bought Lightroom 3 when it was on sale 2/15/2012. We will see if I qualify for the free upgrade.
Took a while, but I was approved for the free upgrade. :D
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Sony NEX FS 700 effect on canon and market

I totally agree, wombat. I wish every video camera could be ergonomically designed to shoot video, had xlr inputs, had the switches and outputs of pro cameras, etc. But like you mentioned, people came to dslrs because of the beautiful image they could create compared to anything else available--and for most people they're going to follow the best image no matter what they have to put up with. But even now, while they have started to make pro line video cameras that have those larger sensors, the price point is still a lot bigger--not as bad as before, but there's still a difference in price range... enough to drive people to the cheaper dslr form. (plus dslr shoot photos, which is a huge bonus for most video guys).

At my job, I shoot on a Sony EX3 that has a 1/2 inch sensor, and it's a great workhorse of a professional camera that's used by tons of people. And I love it and it's a great image and it's got all the things pros need--but in some ways it's inferior to the image of my $900 60D--as far as a desirable shallow depth of field goes because of the smaller sensor. And the 60D is about a 10th of the cost.

All that said, I think a lot of people have grown accustomed to the dslr form factor--they've bought rigs already that allow you to handle a dslr more like a pro, shoulder mounted camera and they're willing to make things work. If big sensor vid cameras get cheaper then people will move away from the frankenstein rigs--but until then... not so much. (and even then, unless video cameras start offering dslr quality still images I'm sure many people will stick with dslrs).
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1D mk IV & 5D mk III or 1DX?

Shnookums said:
stilscream said:
My favorite thing to photograph is BIF, so it's counter intuitive, I know. I don't even care for my 70-200 f2.8L IS ii USM because it doesn't have enough reach and is too heavy for carrying around, but doesn't do low light enough for crop.

Then get a 400 2.8 v1 :) ~ I have one and on a crop body it's awesome hehe

Even more fun handholding it on a 1D4 :D
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5DMk3 Queue at Ritz/Wolf

neuroanatomist said:
Ritz/Wolf isn't the first (or second, or third, etc.) place I'd think of for a high-end body like a 5DIII. I suspect they don't get much of an allotment from Canon, but I also suspect their order list is rather short...

This and the fact that they don't charge your card until they ship your order were my reasons for using them over B&H.

I would otherwise order from B&H or a local shop (typically Allen's Camera in PA), but I did not get on Allen's list before the camera was officially announced and I would rather not start paying for a camera I didn't take delivery on (I'm looking at you, B&H)
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5d3 banding and checkerboard

KurtStevens said:
I'm having a problem. I went out shooting tonight on my 5d3, 16-35 and shot 270 shots and stacked them of the stars. I batched out low res the first time and stacked using startrails and got this checkerboard pattern at 100%. I re-batched full res copies out using LR4.1 and stacked manually using photoshop and got the same problem. See the examples below. Can you offer any advice?

from first batch: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/Capture3.JPG
from the second batch: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/Capture4.JPG
final image merged: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1637319/capture5.jpg
(notice in the final image the banding bottom right)

Settings for these shots were f/2.8 iso 640, 10 seconds per shot

ANY ideas at all? Is this my post processing? Individual shots look perfectly clear and normal, unless there is one that is adding a checkerboard pattern to the image as a whole but i looked at a ton of them and nothing.

:|

HI Kurt;

I haven't done any of the kind of P-P work you've done with these images, I might try it sometimes. Looks kinda cool. :)
However, I gripe about noise issues of this very type affecting cameras, to the discontent of many, no doubt. ;D However, it's those of us pushing the equipment that run into problems like this.

from the last image you posted (cropped?) the neat little grid that shows up seems to be exacly 8 pixels across. Makes me suspicious that it's a hardware-based artifact. But still hard to say if it's your camera/sensor or the PP going on that causes it. Also seems to affect primarily the green channel.

Most of the noise I've looked at from Canon cameras predominantly affects the red channel, altho B & G can be similarly affected.

have you tried processing a similar batch of dark-frame shots with no image data, maybe lens cap on to check for similar results? Done it with a different camera model and same process?

It's possible that your camera is generating a very slight intensity bump on the green channel, every 8 pixels, and the stacking procedure is causing an additive effect. Or it could be a processing algorithm error in the software.

A few too many variables yet, you may have to try some other tests to narrow it down unless someone can recognize it from experience.
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Canon 1.4x tele vs 1.4x II tele or Kenko

The Canon 1.4X and 1.4X II are identical except for added weather sealing. The Kenko is pretty much equivalent. I was thinking of getting Kenko until I read of the compatibility issues with the 5D MK III that some posting here have had.

Now that the 1 series no longer supports f/8, and my 5D MK III does not focus well with most f/8 lens/TC combinations after I tape the pins, I may just sell my TC's. There is little advantage to using them with my 70-200mm f/8, since I have a 100-400mm L already.
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best autofocusing bodies and lenses

briansquibb said:
tomscott said:
The 5D MKII is known well for poor AF.

Whilst the 5DII has limited function it is accuarate, fast and the best in class in low light focussing.

In experienced hands it was very capable.

Of course the 5DIII is a whole new ball game and far better.

You've hit the nail on the head there, Brian.

Tom, perhaps hiring a 5DII didn't give you chance to give it a fair test. I've used one exclusively for 19 months, prior to which I used the 40D exclusively for 2 years. I nearly didn't buy the 5DII because of the questions about its AF ability, but was delighted to discover how much faster and more accurate it was once I started using it. I also did some side-by-side tests just to confirm I wasn't imagining it.

I guess there are many factors (subjects, lighting, lenses, etc.) that could affect what works best for you.
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A Day At The Track 5DIII

Renato said:
tasteofjace said:
I'm still a complete noob when it comes to this camera, and full frame cameras in general. I do a lot of DSLR video, but have a new found passion for photography. I moved from a T3i to a 5DMKIII and I really enjoy the camera! :D

Here's a few shots from yesterday at the track.

All shots taken with the kit 24-105mm L - Basic edits in LR and PS

I am PS user and do not use LR. What functions does LR have that you cannot do in PS.

There's nothing that I do in LR that can't be done in Photoshop. However, LR is much more user friendly when it comes to "Developing" a photo. It's very focused on the photography adjustment side of things, whereas PS can do those things, it also does a billion other things as well.

Basically my workflow is to Develop the photo in LR and if I have need for photo manipulation, or the use of filters, I use PS.
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Using PowerShot SD1400 IS to replace camcorder

This is an old tread but I wanted to provide some experience since a friend of mine asked exactly the same question.

I also have an SD1400 IS and a VIXIA HF-M31 (along with a 60D). The M31 is really cool, great zoom, lots of features, and it is not too big to carry around. However most of the time, SD1400 is good enough. If your only goal is to capture 5-10 minutes of daily life, I don't think you need a standalone camcorder. The only time I think a camcorder might be useful is when the subject is a bit far away (as in graduation, high school plays etc.).

I usually keep my M31 at home and rarely take it out. It also has one disadvantage; the lens isn't wide enough. When I want to fit my kid in the screen, I have to take a few steps back.

If I were you, I would invest in one of the new powershots and save the money. I am planning to do the same.

Cheers,
Ilker
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5d3 Meter underexposing

Had exactly the same problem. Befere i swtiched to canon i was i nikon user with d300 and d70. I got underexposed images by 2/3 with my 5d2 all the time. I put it against sekonic and did a white wall test as well. It was unaccteptable for me, so i sent it to service, however they reply that it was within canon tollerance. Uneblivable. If there is same issue with 5d3 it is really strange.
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Sigma 8-16mm vs Tokina 11-16mm

I chose the sigma 8-16 when i was searching for a uwa lens. Sometimes i wish i had gone for the tokina for the faster 2.8 apperture but when i tested the 8-16 i was sold on how much coverage i had at 8mm. Altho it cant accept filters and is a slower lens i prefer to tripod mount my camera for wide angle landscapes. If i need speed i just crank up the iso a lil bit and compensate. Theyre are both good lens.
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