Thank you all for participating in the poll. I think it's time to close it, as it can happen that finally they would announce something before Photokina
Summarizing: we here think, that:
1. It's not important so far, because 7D2 or 70D with such specs will not be announced soon
2. Announced availability will indicate next year (so it's not avaialable this year anyway)
3. if announced, it would have
a) Less than 24MPs
b) Durability and sealing like in 7D, not better

We'll see in a few days

I'm digging the x-file nature of this discussion. I believe they subcontract Cosina to assemble their ZE lenses, which begs the question, why not subcontract them to assemble AF lenses (since they are in Japan)?

It may be boosting amazing optics but at that length having MF makes it impossible for me to focus on (even slowly) moving subjects. And this is what we need a tele most of the time, isn't it? I skip this one. My 135L does more than a perfect job. And for the landscape panos I take my 100ZE. The IQ there is enough for mortals.

Hello comrades! Clips on classic music is my hobby.
Shot on Canon 60D + Helios-40 85/1.5
Squirrel in the park - Music video HD

DB said:

How big were the original JPeG files? If you're shooting full high resolution then storing hundreds or thousands of 18MP or 21MP JPeGs then importing to Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 or Photoshop CS6 it could cause some issues, especially if you don't have a lot of RAM on your computer.

When shooting time-lapse it is better to shoot smaller file sizes. Plus what video output size is your sequence e.g. I usually output 1080p (1920 x 1080 = 2MP) which is still a lot smaller than the smallest file size on my Canon 7D

Click to expand...

Hmm...I shot mine with the smaller RAW file....and was nice to be able to do some post processing work on them, before making them into a time lapse....

cortezopperman said:

Hi all.
I'm looking at getting a new camera for landscapes, and have somewhere around the AU$900 mark. So, my question is whether I should look at getting a new 60d (18 megapixels, crop sensor), or a second-hand 5d Mki (12 megapixels, full frame)
Any suggestions/reasons to consider or not consider either body?

Click to expand...

They should both do sa good job. Having a 1 year warranty with a new 60D is a plus. Plan on buying good glass. It will make more difference than either of these bodies.
You do not need superwide for landscapes, get lenses with the lowest distortion and CA's.

rcarca said:

Kernuak said:

It's one of the darter dragonflies (Libellulidae, Sympetrum spp.), although I'm not sure which one; it depends where in the world it was shot to make a firmer ID.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I have been told it is a common darter, mature female. This was taken in Marlow, on the edge of the Thames Valley to the west of London in the UK.

Richard

Click to expand...

The colours match those of a female common darter, it just looked a little like there were some secondary genitalia under the wing. The other possibility, is that it is an immature male, which can lack the red abdomen.

Wiki..this is ingenious of course coming from you and Joe I would not expect anything less. Which McNally are you reading? I'm currently reviewing his video course on working with one light

Did you ever use the FTP? could use some of your McNally stuff

LetTheRightLensIn said:

bdunbar79 said:

Well, it definitely was inferior to the 1D X I have. The silent shutter was nice, but I'm probably going to take my 300 f/2.8 next time and shoot with the 1D X.

Click to expand...

i tried some tennis with it yesterday 5D3, seems like a LOT of misses at tennis (which seemed like it should be remarkably easier for the AF system, than soccer or football)

some might have been heat haze though, brutal heat and shooting from in stands (very close though) so that meant a different surface between me and the court, and some was definitely just me, but something seemed a little weird, kept wanting to jump back 2-4' behind a player at times (and focus on nothing, stuff behind player was more than 2-4' back) and even when they were just walking towards stands, at times it didn't seem to keep f/2.8 DOF dead on player, need to look into it more to see what the story it, i'm sure i probbaly didn't have the ideal settings and in other cases it was def stuff I didn wrong, but

I've had amazing one shot mode success with 5D3 so far (easily most accurate and precise of the bodies I've ever used for that) and it's done better than 7D under same conditions (I actually find 7D does worse than 5D2 for AI Servo more often than it does better for soccer). Oddly, not sure it's done better for AI Servo than my 5D2 yet. But I haven't really figured the system all out yet or shot more than a very little so it's hard to say. And some of the errors were my own.

Click to expand...

What af case did you use and also what shot priority? I found when i had shot priority focus for 1st shot and for second set to be infocus before taking the shot meant more failure too.

Great tip. Thanks! artie

Interesting... very interesting.... lets see what the resolution will be like!

transit105 said:

JoeDavid said:

Anybody else notice the complete lack of EXIF data on the images? Are they really from a 1D X. I haven't seen anything come out of my 1D X looking like that and I too own a 50/1.2L...

Click to expand...

Yes they are indeed from a 1dx. For some reason the metadata is not transferring to flickr. Just so there's no questions about the authenticity I'm posting a couple of screenshots from lightroom 4.1 with the metadata.

I must admit I'm pretty shocked by this happening. The 50 f/1.2 is not producing this effect on my other bodies. It is a new lens, perhaps it is the combo of lens and body. I did know going into the purchase that the lens did have a reputation for strange and often annoying "behavior" but these happenings are a little bit more than I expected.

I suspect that the problem could be with a faulty anti-aliasing filter. I'm going to attempt to return the body to the local dealer I bought it from 15 days ago. Hopefully they'll take it.

I'm a little miffed with Canon's track record as of late. Seems the last few bodies I've bought have had problems out of the box. It's a real shame.

Click to expand...

That is from light hitting the side of the lens. PUT THE LENS HOOD ON! here is a very similar example from my 50L from today. I've seen it happen a bunch under the right conditions. It is a sort of ghosting flare that happens when light hits the side of the lens and has nothing to do with the camera.

50L

Ellen Schmidtee said:

I shoot raw + small JPEG.

Full raw because (a) DxO will not process sRaw or mRaw, and (b) when I process raw, I want to get as much as I can from the photo.

Small JPEG because (a) often I don't need more than that, e.g. to send to family members who print 10x15, and (b) if I want more than that, I go straight to raw.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I have been using DxO and am planning on purchasing a license. I did not know that it does not support mraw or sraw.

also thanks to all who have responded, your information and thoughts are most helpful.

To assist in LV focus verification in bright light, I just use a Hoodman loupe. Works great.

jfretless said:

The word "megapixel" was a god send to the camera makers. It was a way that they could easily show people, 4MP is better than 2MP. ...and people would buy new cameras solely based on that.

In the film days, I think technology reached a plateau. Look at the flagship Canon EOS 1v HS. 10FPS and 45 AF points. ...and that was in the year 2000.

What has canon really improved in? Sensors. We still are around 10FPS and 45 AF points. in 12 years?

oh and...

...everyone knows that once a new camera is released, the previous model is rendered useless and unable to produce usable images.

The past couple of generations have been trained to consume, consume, consume.

Click to expand...

Actually, we are at 12/14fps and 61 AF points. AF sensors are also sensitive to far less light than they used to be, down to EV -2 in Canon 1D and Nikon Dx models. We have far more high precision cross type points, and Canon is the first to offer double cross type points for even more AF precision and speed. Dynamic range has improved from maybe 5-7 stops in 2000 to around 12 stops or more today. Pixel densities have increased with a concurrent improvement in IQ. We've gone from around 4 megapixels in 2001 to 20 megapixels or more today. We've gone from a max native ISO 1600, to a max native ISO 51200 (thats a full FIVE STOPS, or 32 times as much light sensitivity!), with maximum ISO settings of today offering better IQ than the max ISO settings from a decade ago. Today, people are happily asking for fewer megapixels and better IQ from the megapixels they have (hence the 18mp 1D X and 22mp 5D III...both of which maintained the megapixel status quo while improving IQ...in the case of the 1D X by a very considerable degree.)

Its incredibly naive to say we've made no progress in the last 12 years. We've made tremendous progress. The type of images we can capture today outpace anything in history, including film (and yes, even LF film with 300dpi drum scans...you get "large" images with that, but IQ...although excellent, no longer holds up to the likes of what you can get from a modern full-frame sensor, particularly the D800's Exmor sensor...there is a lack of deep contrast and still that grain that is entirely absent from a modern high-res digital sensor). We have made phenomenal progress in the last decade plus.

danski0224 said:

B.Lee said:

danski0224 said:

B.Lee said:

So I just purchased the 16-35 II and to be completely honest, I was kind of disappointed to learn 16mm isn't as significant a difference from 24mm as I had hoped.

Click to expand...

Huh?

Click to expand...

Huh?

Click to expand...

I have a 16-35 and see a pretty big difference.

Also a big difference between 14mm and 16mm, but I do not think the 14mm is a general purpose lens.

Click to expand...

+1 The 14mm is great for getting up close to something to distort the perspective.

Brandon, could post a photo or two of yours where you felt that 16mm wasn't wide enough?

HarryWintergreen said:

Street photography is something different. DSLR here isn't the best choice. Fuji seems to have taken this into consideration.

Click to expand...

The best "street shooter" camera is something with a waist level viewfinder such that the camera need not to be raised to the eye level to draw any attention. Therefore some canon DSLR is best for the job, e.g. 60D and the T4i. Some mirrorless with swinging screen will do too. In the old film days, both the Hasselblad and Rolleiflex will be excellent choice, dispite of the larger size of the camera, due to the 6 X6 cm waistlevel view finder.

I went for a walk across the River Thames today, near where I live:


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Dmkiii, 24-105mm 67mm, f8.0, 1/400 sec, ISO100


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 58mm, 1/500 sec


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 24mm, 1/1250 Sec, f4.0


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 55mm, 1/800 Sec


Marlow Bridge by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 24mm, 1/125 Sec, f18.0, ISO 640


Marlow Weir by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 67mm, 1/160 Sec, f22.0

Last one:


Marlow Bridge by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 105mm, 1/250 Sec, f8.0, ISO 100

willis said:

bdunbar79 said:

Whatchoo talkin' about willis?

I couldn't pass that up, sorry.

Click to expand...

Yeahh, heard that so many times. ;D

Click to expand...

Oh I bet and now you got one more idiot to say it again ;D

Yeah, a 17-40 F4L will be your best UWA except if you really need a faster lens which I doubt if you're into landscape photography. Hold on to your 50mm 1.8 yet (unless you're planning to upgrade to 50 1.4 or 1.2L). This will be one of your most used focal length with full frame. It's also so cheap that you'll not regret keeping it.

killswitch said:

Great feedback as usual. It left me thinking, maybe save up and get the 5D mk iii later. Have they fixed black AF point issue, also how do I make sure I dont end up getting a body that has the light leak issue?

verysimplejason said:

Technically, the images will certainly be better but will still be dependent on your creativity if you're looking at it aesthetically. Upgrading is good but it also depends on your financial capability. It will still be better to build your lens list first before you upgrade to a better body and just keep on shooting. After you buy your lenses then I think it will be the best time to upgrade the body. The body by that time will either be a lot better than the current or a lot cheaper. Please remember that most of the time, it's the lenses that will limit your ability to take photos and not the camera body especially that it's 60D, still one of the newest camera body in Canon lineup.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I was going that route before deciding to change the body. I have noticed I really really struggle with reach even with crop body. I initially planned to get the Canon 70-200 f2.8L (non-IS) but held out thinking telephoto of this range would probably be better with IS (to reduce camera shake) given I avoid bumping up the ISO in my 60D to avoid grains/noise. I have the following lens at this time

1) Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX Pro
2) Canon 24-70mm f2.8L
3) Canon 50mm 1.8 II (which I am selling off as I barely use it)

So if end up not purchasing a new body, I will most likely eye 70-200 f2.8L. I see myself selling off the Tokina IF I do go for a full frame, even though that is by far my most favorite lens. Maybe replace it with Canon 17-40 f4L?

Click to expand...

Need not be "too good to be true". Things happen and people need cash. As PeterJ says this guy probably still needs a camera but also some cash.

I recently bought a 50D with less than 3000 shutter counts for $380 on craigslist.


However, if you choose to buy/trade up to the 7D in question, make sure that you put the camera through every possible workout before you agree to the trade. Meet somewhere in public and tell the guy to come with at least 45 minutes in hand (to allow you enough time) to let you test the camera thoroughly. In fact I would suggest you to sit down with your own camera and a 7D manual and make a list of tests that you would like to perform and how you would like to do that test. Take that list with you on the day of the trade if possible or memorize it.

preppyak said:

Actually, if you check the rumor again, he says that the sensor is most often cited as 22mp. I really can't imagine them doing the R&D for a whole new sensor for a cheaper camera.

Click to expand...

Me neither - but I can imagine them tweaking the existing sensor a bit so that the nominal mp count is somewhat lower than 22mp for the tech data sheets. They did the reverse strategy for the 21mp 5d2->5d3, and that's no sensor redesign either.

Or maybe they really added live view like on the 650d, that might eat up some pixels that wouldn't count for still shots? Quite possible, because that's a tech where Canon has an edge unlike Nikon in iso/dr.

bkorcel said:

Yeah they tried that already. It was called the Philadelphia Experiment. ;D

marekjoz said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

marekjoz said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

RLPhoto said:

This tech will in military and security use before it will ever hit the consumer market.

Click to expand...

Yes, DARPA gives out quite a few grants for research to both Universities and to companies. In fact, thats how we got the internet.

Click to expand...

.... and a few other technologies beyond Internet

Click to expand...

Yes, I've visited the DARPAheadquarters and bid on some projects as well as briefing them on our research before I retired.
I first used the internet back in the mid 1980's before it really caught on. Back then, it was unix commands only. We had dumb terminals networked to a VAX.

Click to expand...

I'curious when They finally will find a way to diffract the light using elecromagnetic field with a reasonable about of power the other intersting solution would be spherical sensors. Anyone knows about sth like that?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

And we don't want them to repeat it, as we'd like to see Canon labs not to dissapear

I have the SBH-300 and the thing is built like a tank. I probably could have gone with the SBH-100 and been fine, but, I got it like new from Amazon Warehouse for the same price, and it'll be nice for video work.

I've been looking at the 263AT's for when I upgrade my tripod legs. The lifetime warranty is a nice perk