Apple and Possible iPhone Pro with TWO 1/2 inch sensors (one 26.1 megapixel with 6K video) and one 960 by 540 Infrared Nightvision sensor

Yeah, but doesn't it only work with Apple-branded liquid nitrogen cooling containers?

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You don't actually NEED supercooling for modern thermal imaging sensors! That was so 20 years ago! The CAT S60 smartphone was one of the first phones to have thermal imaging and its IR sensor is only 640 by 480 pixels so the upgrade to 960 x 540 pixels (i.e. 1/2 HDTV resolution on each axis) is not out of the realm of possibility. At a 1/2 inch sensor size you can easily sense Near Infrared wavelengths (i.e. 750 nanometres to 2500 nanometres) although NOT into the far infrared range of 15 microns to 1mm wavelengths.

A 1/2 inch sensor at 960 by 540 pixels will be about 6.4 mm by 3.6 mm with a photosite size of about 6.5 microns which will result in a VERY NICE IR (thermal) image on a smartphone. You use computational software to combine the thermal image data with the 26.1 megapixel optical camera sensor (which will be slightly larger at about 6.4 mm by 4.1 mm in size) to get you really nice low-light level photography. I also suspect that Apple MAY be using a fast switching set of IR LEDs to flash infrared light pulses at a subject to measure the amount of time between IR pulses bouncing off real world objects/subjects so that accurate 3D measurement data can be taken, which is what I really think is the BOTTOM LINE to Apple for this type of large sensor smartphone.

It means you have a portable 3D scanner able to convert ANY combined optical image + IR thermal image into a real-time 3D vector object convertor which can be saved as a textured B-spline model to import into Blender, Maya/Softimage/Discreet/etc. I did notice NEW 3D imaging functions in the latest Apple SDKs! The Thermal (nightvision) functionality would be just an added bonus! As a technical note, you could put the iPhone Pro IR into a headset and have the equivalent of a $4000 set of PVS-14 nightvision goggles for less than $1500 and it would probably OUTPERFORM them in terms of actual image quality!




I don't have any other information other than my educated sensor size calculations, but I was told about actual drawings for the phone being passed around. Again, it was disclosed to me that this is a singular more professional-type of iPhone product SKU (i.e. likely MORE expensive but much more functional!) that will be the size of the XL series and that a Black glassy stripe will run across the upper part of the phone to "hide" the look of two 1/2 inch image sensors. I am VERY SURE that the 26.1 megapixel (6144x4256) will be nearly identical quality-wise to the Sony ones made for Fuji in their X-series of cameras....That actually bodes VERY WELL for low-light gathering power and actual final image quality for BOTH stills and video!

AND I should also note that a sensor resolution of 26.1 megapixels DOES FIT with Apple's tendency to NOT follow the rest of the heard in
terms of the megapixel race. It does to me sound like a focus on actual IMAGE QUALITY rather than mere huge megapixel numbers like what Samsung, Google, Xiaomi or Huawei tend to focus on! That in itself give more credence to the validity of this rumour in my opinion!

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Anyways.... YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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EOS R - Cancel focus magnifier with shutter button?

Ah, i find it a bit hard that Canon "removes" features. They usually add functionality. If it's not a bug in FW?
the EOS R Menu and Settings feels limited and incomplete to me. I hope they release an update to fix this the exit magnify screen.

Just turn the fucusring and it will magnify 5 or 10 times

forgot to mention I am using legacy non Canon lenses with no focus chip (Leica M and Pentax lenses) on my Canon EOS R
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Telephoto prime or zoom - value deal

Back in 2015 when the 5Ds was introduced I posted a thread titled "Dawn of a new era for primes" as this 50mp camera would allow much more cropping and increase the versatility of primes. Nobody seemed interested at the time but I think I was proved right; there has been an explosion of new prime lenses since then.


I took my own advice and moved to the 5Ds, now I only own one zoom.

If you want to stay light and cheap I'd say go for the venerable EF 100/2. Fast focusing and excellent quality as good as the 135L. (I apologise for the blasphemy. No warning please mods). If you want prime but heavier I'd recommend the Tamron 85/1.8 VS. Very good portrait lens with IS but AF not as snappy as the 100.

I'd think long and hard before losing the EF 70-300L though. I did.
The jump in mega pixels from my 5D Mark III to the 30mp of the R has made primes more appealing to me than they were for exactly the same reason; more latitude for crops. The 5Ds must be a dream for that. A high resolution R is on my wish list for the future for precisely that reason. I wouldn't care if it only shot 2 fps for what I do.
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Buying a 90D (body only.) Go for it or wait for Black Friday?

FYI, The Black Friday deals are now posted at Canon Price Watch.

B&H is currently giving anyone the same price as CPW on the 90D + 18-55mm kit lens ($1199). They're slightly higher than CPW on the Body only (+ $100) and Body + 18-135 kit (+ $50).

But the B&H deals include a couple of extra third party batteries, an extra third party charger, a Sandisk 64GB Extreme Pro SD card, and Luminar 4.

I've bought that same third party 2 battery + charger from B&H. The charger includes a 12V cord so it can be used in the car while driving from one shoot to another. The batteries last about 80-90% compared to a Canon EP-L6n that came with the camera I bought at the same time. They're better than my 4-7 years old Canon EP-L6 batteries, which are beginning to show their age.
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Speedlite AF Assist Beam: Issue for Very Low Light Events

Year old news? I guess a year + after it came out, people have forgotten that there are limitations. I did some tests on mine when I first received it in mid October 2018. It was known then that it used the on camera AF light and not the one on the Flash.

The good news is that it focuses in low light that is too low for me to see the subject unless I wait for 15 minutes for my eyes to fully adjust.

One cannot forget what one never knew.
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Patent: Some crazy fast RF mount prime lenses, including an RF 18mm f/1.0L

They will release such lenses only if they see money. I have zero idea how large the astro market is but they did intro the Ra so there's that.

Someone pointed out that the Ra is aimed at 'deep sky' astro, not the wide angle star scapes that Canon lenses tend to suck at due to coma.
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Here’s a list of rumoured and predicted cameras coming from Canon in the next year

A friend's friend told me that Canon has a video camera that shoots at very dark places. Oh wait:


I believe Nikon and Sony are doomed! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
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The best reason to not use the cloud?

One disgruntled employee, from summer of this year. The faithful aren't just backing up photos, but their whole freakin' systems.

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Portrait of your "Best friend"

Great photos! Thanks for sharing, guys! Unfortunately, my dog died last month. I'm not ready to adopt a new dog, I need time. But I still have a cat, she is about 13 years old. I should say, after my dog passed away, I started thinking more about taking care of my pets (of course, I took them to a vet regularly and gave all necessary vitamins and supplements), but now I realize that my cat is also old, and maybe I should do more for her. I read a lot on the topic. By the way, I found Pet Express pharmacy that allows to read the descriptions of all meds for pets that are sold there (it is convenient as you can always check side effects, contraindications, etc.). So, do you do anything special for your pets when they get older?
P.S. Sorry, if this is a wrong place to ask.
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Which possible f/1.2 Primes would be practical for you?

I shoot portraits and events with the Sigma 35/1.4 and the Canon 85/1.8. For architecture/landscape and some extreme portraits, I just last month added the Samyang 14/2.8 to my kit. I would like to have the Canon 200/2.8 for use shooting outdoor theatre performances, but it isn't a priority at this time (though I probably couldn't say no if I found one in good shape for less than $450).

To be honest, I think (hope) shooting with the 35 and 85 is slowly improving my photography. It makes me extremely uncomfortable in some situations to not have a 50 in the middle or be able to go wider (down to 24), but being that uncomfortable makes me work very hard to see shots more clearly and then hustle to get them.

I got an RP the week before last and am now enjoying a host of bewildering shooting options (ISO above 3200! Yowza!). I don't expect I will buy an RF glass for a long while since the RP doesn't necessitate it, IMO. I'll certainly replace any of my gear if it breaks, but I'm satisfied with my mid/low end equipment for now. I could really use more lights and lighting gear for OCF, something I know just enough about to feel that I actually know relatively nothing :cool:

Cat photo (of course) from a walk I went on this evening around dusk, getting used to the RP + 35/1.4 combo.

EDIT: to answer your question (ha!)

RF 35 1.2 and RF 85 1.2, assuming those focal lengths haven't totally worn out my patience by the time I can afford them.

View attachment 187587
Great shot! It looks to me like your lens/camera combo are fantastic.
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The new 5D Mark V and R version.

I’m not ever going back to a mirror camera, but what I want to see in a R upgrade is:

Proper weather sealing
Proper weather sealing
The R has proper weather sealing. Unless you plan to stand outside in heavy rain with it for well over an hour, you're set.

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RF24-70 & RF15-35 Reviews

To be fair though, it is not just the people who have a hand in this. Reviewers could go through the trouble of finding the focus distance for points away from the center and measure the edge sharpness with subjects at these distances. Than they could publish edge sharpness and curvature measurements that are comparable... But at much higher effort. And is that effort worth it?

If I have subjects that stretch across the frame, like a tree or a group of people, there tends to be a single plane of focus that I would like to be sharp. I wouldn't want the tell the people that they have to align in some half circle, making some of the appear bigger and more important, just so that they don't get blurry.

Do we have an idea of how big the compromise between blur quality and focus flatness is?

Great points, all of them.
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