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Bokeh with a 24-70

kat.hayes said:
Do you get any lens distortion when shooting close to a subject with a 24-70 at any focal length?

Lens distortion, means if you take a straight on shot of a grid (like chicken wire or barred windows), whether those lines come out straight. Pretty much every lens has a little, but like privatebydesign said, it's easily (and automatically) corrected in post. It's tiny in EF24-70 and in the context of portraiture and most subjects, you'd never notice.

What you may be asking is about the "fisheye" effect. The 24-70 is a rectilinear lens, meaning that at every focal length, straight lines will come out as straight lines, and there will be no intended barrel/pincushion effect. This is as opposed to a curvilinear lens, which will give you that barreled look (and the 24-70 is definitely not that).

Even the 16-35 is not a curvilinear lens. However, as you to wider angle focal lengths, perspective will appear more exagerated. This means that objects closer will look larger and objects further will look smaller. If you shoot something on an angle (for example, from the ground up or from an elevated position), this will exagerate a large enough subject. For instance, if you shoot a person from above, with a wider focal length, they will look like they taper down. This can be a desirable effect, for example, to present a more flattering perspective of who is heavy-set. Conversely, a photo from the bottom up makes the head small and the lower body larger, which could give the right subject a super-hero pose.

And in a wide angle lens, if someone holds out their hand towards you at minimum focal distance, that hand will look much larger than if you did the same exercise from a more telephoto focal length.

But none of that is lens-dependent, as long as we're talking about rectilinear lenses.
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New Phantom v2640 Ultrahigh-Speed Camera Achieves Unmatched 4-Mpx Resolution

Berowne said:
This thingy can take photos of molekules in chemical reactions? :)

No, of course not ;D For example the record the combustion in an engine is a common use, so you can calibrate your data from simulation.

Normally photographers say you need to catch the richt moment, with this camera you simply catch the hole moment and choose the best picture afterwards :D
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My 1st Digital Camera Reborn

I've noticed a Fujifilm MX700 being advertised locally on Craigslist for some time now, so when the price got down to $10, I decided to add it to my collection. A MX700 was the first digital camera I owned, I bought it 20 years ago in 1998, they ran over $400 and had all of 1.5 MP.

The original li-on battery was included, but it does not hold a charge for long. A 32mb Smart Card was also included along with the charger.

I tried it out briefly this evening, and it still works, it may need a internal battery to keep the clock running, I'll check that later. The Rear lcd has a few stuck pixels and I see some thin vertical lines, but the display is pretty good overall. I'll try taking some photos with it tomorrow, I already know that it needs lots of bright light.

Some of the 1st photos taken were of my retirement party, it miserably underexposed all of the photos. Then, I was at our new and present home site to see our new home being delivered, and snapped some photos with better results.

I've attached one as the family room section was pulled up in glorious 1.5mp color.

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Certification Update of Unreleased Canon Gear

Imagewerx said:
rrcphoto said:
Imagewerx said:
The DS126741 was recently said to be the EOS 90D,no Bluetooth and made in Japan.

highly unlikely that the 90D doesn't have BLE one would have to think.

Why not when the 80D has wi-fi but no Bluetooth?

BLE support was added in the DIGIC7 SoC. The 80D has a DIGIC6. More interesting question is whether the 90D'll have GPS or just a BLE connection to phone GPS like current DIGIC7 bodies.
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More Mentions of EF-M Prime Lenses [CR1]

anehili said:
for me i would like to have EF-M 15-50 2.8.
more prime lenses is what needed to let canon stay on the mirorless game

I would like this also, but constant f/2.8 zoom would be fairly large and heavy. I use my 24-70 f/2.8 II on my M5 occasionally, but its doesn't balance well. a 15-50 would be smaller and no EF-M adapter, also a more useful focal range.
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Proper way to store lens

Based on my observations over many camera stores, it seems to me that most lens (especially telephoto) are stored horizontally.

So I store all my lens in a horizontal fashion in a dry cabinet with caps on.

If there is a good sun, I would take out the lens and remove the caps to "sunbathe" the glass elements (be careful not to focus the rear to material that are flammable) .

My setting for the humidity is 40~50%

When transportation, the lens are usually in a vertical fashion. (I am using TT Digital Holster 40v2 or a shoulder bag)

when I change lens during shooting, I would drop the lens into the TT Large Lens Drop In (with Hood and no front cap), take another lens, remove the rear cap, mount the new lens and take the rear cap to cover the dropped lens before storing away the dropped lens to other pouches.

:P
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Canon Has 93 Reasons You Shouldn't Settle for Smartphone Photos

RandomRazr said:
the best camera in the world, is the one you have with you. sicne you carry your phone eveywhere, and not as much as a DSLR, usually capturing the moment is more iportant
Actually I feel the opposite. My smartphone is big, too big to fit in my pocket comfortably and it is very difficult to use. The screen has now cracked 3 times, I don't like the way it tracks my every move and so I now leave it at home. My camera hangs around my neck out of the way, I do not find it heavy and it is available whenever I want to use it. Any thieves in the area take one look at it, think it is a museum piece from a bygone age and look elsewhere for an iphone X to steal. The camera I always have with me is my 5D mk4.
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Stock Notice: Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS at B&H Photo

HTML:
<p>B&H Photo once again has stock of the Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS lens.</p>
<p class="fs16 OpenSans-600-normal upper product-highlights-header">PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS</p>
<ul class="top-section-list" data-selenium="highlightList">
<li class="top-section-list-item">EF-Mount Lens/Full-Frame Format</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Aperture Range: f/1.4 to f/22</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">One GMo Aspherical Element</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Air Sphere and Fluorine Coatings</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Ring-Type Ultrasonic Motor AF System</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Optical Image Stabilization</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Dust- and Water-Resistant Construction</li>
<li class="top-section-list-item">Rounded 9-Blade Diaphragm</li>
</ul>
<p><strong><a href="https://bhpho.to/2wsZaDB">Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM Lens at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<span id="pty_trigger"></span>

Been with Canon for 12 years - wait or jump ship?

Isaacheus said:
jrvvn said:
Isaacheus said:
jrvvn said:
Hi all,

I would like to update you all about my experience.

Sony A7R III v1.01 + Metabones V v0.57 + :

Canon 35 F2 - AF amazingly accurate and fast. Nothing more to tell, simply great.

Canon 16-35 F4 - Sucks so so so hard but so hard....cannot focus on shadows/dark areas. Bright area no issues, fast and accurate.

Canon 16-35 F4 was my main lens with Canon body, I'm kind regret in switching to Sony due to this AF issue.

Anybody else experienced the same result ?

I'm getting depressed ... :(

Have you tried the mc-11? I've got the 16-35mm f4 on that, it's not super in low light but if you can give it some contrast, it seems to be decent overall. Having said that, I wouldn't rate a cameras af purely on how it can handle adapted lenses, that seems a bit unfair as a whole.

I do tend to use a tripod and manual focusing for landscape in low light myself, as I've never found any cameras (6d, 5dmk3 etc) to be fantastic focusing in low light shadows

No no, it has nothing to do with A7R III nor with Canon 16-35. Simply the combination does not work with Metabones V.
The simple fact with my Canon 35mm F2 it worked so well I was expecting more from Canon 16-35 (since this last is my main lens).
I sold my 6D for A7R III, you have to admit, even though 6D has old technology the middle focusing point is amazing in low light (almost dark/no light), fast and accurate.

Kind disappointed with my investment. That's it.
I never expected to be mega fast as with native lenses but I did expect to focus. The currect situation is ...my Canon 16-35 cannot even focus :(

Not tried with MC-11 but I heard somewhere that Eye Focus does not work with it. True/False ?

By the way, I wrote to Metabones about this matter, hope they can reply me soon.

Ah I get you now, and yeah, I've heard it's quite variable depending on what lens is being used unfortunately. It also seems that it depends on the adapter being used, where lens A works well with the metabones but not as well as the mc-11 and vice versa. I wonder if this is one of those situations

The mc-11 has eye af on all the lenses I've tried so far, no issues there.

Keen to hear what metabones say.
The 6d center point is great yes, I still have my 6d that I use together with the sony.

I have had a few days with the sony 28-70 and the af was far better in low light with this than any of the adapted lenses. I'll be getting either the 24-105 or the 24-70 sony for this range for the af at some point.

Yesterday I've tested again and found out:

Under day light or low light situation, wherever the surface is smooth/surface with poor texture/low contrast, both lenses cannot focus. Canon 35 F2 can focus sometimes, but the fail rate can reach 50%. With Canon 16-35 F4 100% fail.
The surfaces I'm talking about are:
table, car's door, fridge, wall with shades (created by artificial light), cellphone, etc..
everything that looks smooth and no texture, it won't focus.

When there's contrast/patterns are notably different then both lenses have no issues in focusing.

It really pisses me off since the tests I did are not extreme, which means anybody can face these situations in a daily bases.

Metabones replied me this morning with some sort of stupid feedback: "have you tried Green-mode ?"
In Green-mode is even worse. Even with Canon 35 F2, the AF is so so so slow and the fail rate increases by 35-50%.

For me Focus scenarios coverage > focus speed. I don't mind in exchanging coverage for speed. (of course, not super slow). I'm happy and unsatisfied at same time.

Putting AF issue aside, the images taken are simly great. I visualize my images in 5k monitor and the image quality is simply astonish. For this reason I don't want to give up Sony A7R III.

I'm now researching more about MC-11, maybe can solve my problem.

Thank you for all your replies guys. Thumbs up
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Is a Super35 Mirrorless Camera Coming?

ExodistPhotography said:
Is a Super35 Mirrorless Camera Coming?

No.. There is no market for it..
Yes its called a Red Scarlet.!

I for one very often frame for 16x9 on Landscape stills purely because my monitors are 16x9, my TV is 16x9. An iPhone is 16x9 whereas an iPad is 4:3.

For many an S35/16X9 output is ideal.
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A New Style of Camera From Canon Currently Being Tested [CR2]

The issues for MF are a. Wide angles and b. F stops so I don't see Canon going down this route not since the arrival of the 5DS/r and a prototype higher MP camera at the last Photokina.

If Canon are making a mirrorless camera to take EF lenses then they may well play around with the packaging to deliver something more useful for video whilst still able to take high quality stills.
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The Canon EOS 90D is Coming Later in 2018 [CR2]

midluk said:
If they had the technology, they would likely already have added low quality very low bitrate 4K to the 6D2 and 80D. Good enough to appear in the spec sheets for those people that want 4K but don't actually need it.

Or maybe they have staff who know the math, but don't want to put crappy, worthless video on the camera just to tick another box.

I've not seen streaming 4K TV, so I don't know which looks better, highly compressed 4K or 1080p at a similar bitrate. There is probably a gray area in there somewhere in which it doesn't make any visible difference, or an extremely subtle one. OTA 720p might look better than either.

I have shot 4K video with my iPhone. It has been quite serviceable to allow for using editing to compensate for lack of zoom lenses. I've not bothered to try to figure out what kind of bitrate it involves.
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Tilt-shift staycation

I'm always suspicious when people rattle on about Scheimpflug, the truth is the understanding of Scheimpflug is not the most important aspect of understanding what tilt is doing especially to small range tilt lenses like those used on DSLR's. Focus is every bit as important to tilt use, Scheimpflug was interested in very large 'J' point distances because he was using cameras from a balloon, we use much smaller 'J' points and so the impact of focus on the plane of focus when used in conjunction with tilt is the key.

This was all laid out by Harold Merklinger in his seminal work on focusing the view camera http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/FVC161.pdf
and addendum
http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/FVCADNDM.pdf

The interaction of the Scheimpflug Line and the Hinge Line is here http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/VuCamTxt.pdf

And there are excellent animated gif's here http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/using-lens-tilt-on-your-digital-slr/

Indeed Kieth is a member and occasional poster here and if you only want to read one or two articles I'd recommend his.
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Well, you can just throw out all your expensive L glass now. (Ok, not really...)

zim said:
CanonFanBoy said:
Great to know my 20th century style glass might become novelty items one day. They'll outlive me. :D

That's what I thought about my FDs ;D

Believe it or not, those FDs are sought after. I'm always looking for them. Love that inexpensive old glass adapted to a dslr. :) I'll take your FD glass. :)
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Frequency of EF 24-105/4 L error 01

MrFotoFool said:
Sounds like you have the original version of the lens (which I had for years) instead of the newer version ii. Mine never had a problem. Not sure how long I owned it - maybe eight years or so like you. I have never heard of a red L ring breaking (on any lens) so I imagine it is quite uncommon.

The reason I replaced mine is because I dropped it on cement and dented the filter ring, so that filters could no longer be used (it worked fine otherwise, which is good since it happened on the start of a European vacation). For replacement I got the (then new) 24-70 f4L, but this was before the new 24-105 ii was out. One advantage of the one I got is a built-in macro switch, an extremely handy feature if you don't want to carry a separate macro lens. Before I gave away my 24-105 I tested both lenses close up at 24mm on a large door and the new 24-70 had less barrel distortion (though the new 24-105 ii may be just as good in this regard).
The red ring snapped and fell of my 24-105 F4L mark 1 and I know at least 2 other photographers who have had the same problem. It does not affect the performance of the lens in any way, but it doesn't look very nice and it makes the lens more difficult to sell.
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