Should have been looking through his lens and not at it!!!
Very funny

Random Orbits said:

docsmith said:

Random Orbits said:

docsmith said:

Random Orbits said:

Perhaps because a f/6.3 lens won't perform well enough on existing bodies, whose non-center points are limited to f/5.6.

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I had heard that and was concerned when I got my 150-600S. But I have checked and not noticed a problem with the non-center AF points.

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On which bodies?

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5DIII.

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Thanks! How well does the 150-600S work as a walk-around lens? I'd opted for the 100-400 II as an upgrade to the original, but the 150-600S is significantly heavier. I've usually tied the BR strap to the L-bracket rather than the lens tripod ring because I prefer walking with the camera lens down, but I'm not sure if the L-bracket/body tripod socket would be strong enough to handle the larger weight.

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It works. I have hiked wildlife preserves with it. I am not going to kid you and if a "walk around" lens is your main purpose, the 100-400 II may be a better option. But the 150-600S can fit it in my flipside 400AW when mounted to the 5DIII, but it is a bit tight. I also have it strapped to a BR using the strap mount on the 5DIII or foot of the 150-600S. If the strap mount, I usually hold the lens by the foot while walking. I haven't tried connecting to my L-bracket, so I can't really speak to that.

neuroanatomist said:

tron said:

painya said:

Won't the 70-200 v1 be better? Isn't it sharper on a full frame?

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Where did you read that? The 70-200 IS (v1) is much worse than 70-200 2.8 IS II and 70-200 2.8 (non-IS)

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DxOMark said so. When challenged on that conclusion, they defended it stating there had been no error. A year later they silently updated their measurements of the 70-200 II, which changes the conclusion to agree with what everyone else in the world already knew, that the 70-200 II is clearly better.

Of course, DxOMark's measurements still show that the 17-40L is sharper than the 16-35/2.8 II with both wide open. ??? :

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I remember the v1 and v2 fiasco. That was one of "the classics." One of my other favorites is the equal scoring of the Canon and Nikon 500mm lenses due to the superior DR of the D800, or how about the nifty fifty being better than the 600mm f/4L II IS. Or wait, there's just too many.

Am I alone in hoping for the following?

At the moment I carry my smart phone with me everywhere (Samsung Galaxy Note), but I am not overly happy with the images that it produces. They are OK but not what I want. I do not carry my 1D X and different lenses etc everywhere so here is what I would like:

I would like the RX100 (basically the best pocketable camera there is with all the IV specs) but with Android, so I can have whatsapp, a calculator, the weather apps, a phone, calendar, browser, alarm clock etc.

Basically I would like the RX100 to be my pocket camera which also works as my phone, rather than having to carry two things around.

I know battery life may be an issue, so I will gladly buy 1 perhaps even 2 extra batteries.

What do you think?

Oh, as you are combining the two I would gladly pay around US$1,000 - 1,500 for it as that is what I would probably spend on buying them separately. This is not about saving, it is about convenience and quality.

Valvebounce said:

I quit buying lottery tickets years ago! :

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The only guarantee with lotteries is that if you don't play you are guaranteed not to win... but also guaranteed keep your money. ;D

This isn't the first time we have had this conversation here. An actual mechanical shutter that reaches that speed would definitely be helpful. Or better yet, a global electronic shutter that goes faster than that would be even better.

To date, I've probably shot at least 8-10k images at 1/10000th and faster with my mirrorless rig. We haven't had very many rainy days here in California this year so we have had ample sunlight for a minimum of 8 hours everyday for a good while now. The type of sunlight that would require a faster shutter speed than 1/8000th at f1.2. I have been doing this with just an electronic shutter which causes problems depending on the type of movement in the scene. Either way, I have tons of shots captured above 1/16000th all the way up to 1/32000th.This has been one of the reasons I love this cam so much. Knowing that, I would love it even more if I were able to have those types of speeds on a mechanical shutter (or global electronic).

If I remember correctly, I posted samples in the other thread where this conversation was previously had.

i alwasy thought Otus was a statement product to show the market what can do. whatever they discover/learnt will then filtered down to cheaper/more common products. although, the 85mm Batis is based on Sonnar design and Otus is based on Planar, so im not sure how much of the Otus design has be ported to Batis.

bobestremera said:

Disagree a little here. for the 50mm, 1.8 or f2 should be the target. Faster gets bigger, won't balance well and be much more expensive. Small primes should be Canon's focus for the M just like Fuji did to make their system so desirable. I think the M needs a small 35mm (50mm FF equiv), 50mm (85mm FF equiv) then maybe something wider, around 21-24mm FF equiv. THEN, they will have everything covered and be competitive.

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i agree compactness should be the main focus. my brother has a fuji XF 10-24. while it is very nice lens, im so glad i went with EF-m 11-22mm. my only wish is the APS-C is 1.5x instead of 1.6x which currently makes the 11mm just that bit less wide. but that requires a fundamental rethink for all lens i.e. im sure it will never happen ;D

B&H has many for their products listed as 'Discontinued/Not available at this time'. I love my half dome softboxes, and would buy another, but no one seems to have any stock.

neuroanatomist said:

Primes pic taken with the 24-70/2.8L II. Zooms pic taken with 100/2.8L. This reminds me that I need to reshoot the zooms, since I added the EF-M 11-22mm a few weeks ago.

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Thank you

ajfotofilmagem said:

From what I read in Samyang site, the only upgrade the old models (such as 85mm) was the position of the rings of focus and aperture to be in the same position in all models Cine lens.

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Good info. I suppose that's a welcomed revision.

.
Lensprotogo has issued a list of items stolen and serial numbers. Might want to check this if you're buying used...

https://www.lensprotogo.com/serial-numbers-of-stolen-gear-from-half-million-dollar-rental-heist/

@PVAlpha: Thanks for suggestions. I will run through them to see if I can isolate the problem.

I shot a wedding over the weekend (1100 frames) with the new body, many with the Speedlight, with no lockups. I did not use the remote control for any shots, but I don't see how that could be issues.

Thanks again.

I ran out of ink that came with my MG6220 Photo Printer and ordered some off brand ink on amazon. Does anyone have experience getting ink and what ink should be used? Could it be the ink or my settings on my printer?


How do I get the best, sharpest photos from my printer? Settings? how do I calibrate?

To clarify: I'm using the off brand ink, and there is a lot of color banding (especially when viewed in well-lit rooms) in my prints, and a green tone.

Thanks for the input. For this picture I probably did focus too close, I'll dig through the hard drive to find it and see where focus was. I have other samples where I was using 40mm and didn't really get anything sharp except a shore line about 1000m away. Faces in the foreground were shadowed mind you, but softer than they could have been. I do think I'd enjoy the challenge of tilt/shift, but want my expectations realistic. last thing I want is to be disappointed given the cost.

Not bad, but the questions on memory cards and IS and tripod were obviously just thrown in there for the benefit of some listeners and they were not truly interested in the answers. The memory cards question was likely a disguised sales pitch, I'm not sure what the old lame IS question was hoping to accomplish.

The discussion on using any desirable image from any lens at a larger size and maintaining it's look before you have to result to sophisticated upscaling I think is an important one; not just the max detail of the sensor when you have a razor sharp lens in front of it.

A few more images would have been useful with more onscreen comparisons.

If the Leica Q had this sensor the 35mm and 50mm crop modes would be so much more useful.

Good stuff.

ahsanford said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Thanks, as usual, he presents interesting data. As he said, it will be months before enough testing is done to firmly establish the characteristics of different lenses.

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It just occurred to me what a mess the 5DS rigs represent to LensTip, PhotoZone, etc. They have had 'reference' cameras to shoot for all their lens testing in the fairly consistent 21-22 MP range (1Ds III, 5D2, 5D3, etc.) for many years now.

But I presume now that they'll have to retest everything they have so people can compare two lenses on that 50 MP sensor.

Sadly, this is one area where I can't poop on DXO. They actually roll up their sleeves and do a lot of this already -- their terrible metrics notwithstanding...

- A

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For small testers, its a matter of money. They borrowed many of the lenses used to test and will not be able to test the same physical lens. Even DXO says they rent lenses to test. If the test is not done on the same physical lens, the results may not mean as much.

Then, there is the not so small matter of priorities. If the lenses are not in the hands of a large number of photographers, then the money may be needed elsewhere.

Lens rentals is able to test large numbers of lenses, so they average out. Others may not be able to do this.

Scumbags!!!

Lensrentals did some resolution testing and saw a 20-50% increase in resolution over the 5diii depending on the lens. You should be able to multiply dxo's perceptual mpx by a similar factor.

Just received an email to say that my 5dsr would have an eta of June 22. This is from a camera store in Australia though and I don't believe the camera is being released here till the 19th. Still, I'm one happy camper. Saved quite a few hundred dollars by purchasing through a company that buys overseas models.

There will also be a Jackie Chan model ... OOPs, that's Canon. Maybe a Godzilla model with gold scales.

F4

A lot of people still use a Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM and seeing the performance of a 2003 lens on a 2015 body would be helpful to a lot of long time photogs.

Thank all for your comments. I did my job last saturdaynight and I am satisfied with the result. I have used the 24-70 2.8 and a tripod. Thanks for the tip. I wasn't planning to do so, but it helped a lot.
Because of children in the video, I am not allowed to show the result.
Thanks again!!