Yes, you are allowed to comment...

slclick said:

It's known for very good center sharpness but poor AF capabilities and distortion. Enjoy!

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focus seemed fine, not L sharp of course but doesn't seem to miss much (for an older third party lens especially) and is fairly quick... I have owned the Tamron 28 75 SP and it seems comparable.

Jura said:

All comedy contains truth

http://newcameranews.com/2015/04/01/shocking-nikon-canon-to-end-camera-development/

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I can't speak for Nikon, but if you take Canon at its word, the 1Dx ii will be the last Canon EOS.

From the press release: "The Ultimate EOS Camera"

racebit said:

Wrong. That may be in some cases. As I am almost always reach limited, I only use the center part of interest and throw the rest away. So yes usually see it a 100%.

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In other words you take photos to look at the image at a large size and you find the camera that best delivers that. The fact it is 100% is coincidental.
But my comment was about 'looking at images at 100%' when comparing bodies because when you look at a 18Mp image and a 24MP image both at 100% they are different sizes.

I can understand not putting one back in if it was a flop to begin with. When that time comes I can just post to the technical support forum.

wsmith96 said:

Luds34 said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I'm wondering about the focal length. Weird!!

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I know some are quite excited for this lens. I don't really get the focal length either. All in a relatively narrow, in-the-shorter telephoto range (APS-C). I guess I'd rather just use a fast prime.

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I'm guessing that this would fit the needs of portrait photographers using aps-c cameras. It seems to be tailored for that with the focal length provided. The sample pictures are pretty impressive.

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Right. Plus shooting the sorts of events, action and sports where you can be pretty close to your subjects. Basically it's a 70-200mm f/2.8 for crop sensors, with a bit less reach. And seeing how popular 70-200s are...

Very nice. Glad I could help.

Thanks for the thoughtful, civilized replies.
I'm really am generally quite pleased with the 6D, it takes the best pictures of any camera I have ever owned, including my old Konica Hexanon lenses with Kodachrome 25 slide film. I guess I just wish for more pixels, better focus, and once in a great while faster frame rate. But, really, it's a pretty darn good camera.
Just wish for the ultimate camera at a reasonable price. I'm getting to the age where I'm probably not gonna get back to certain places too many times more, if ever. Would like to have effing National Geographic quality pics, to the limits of my ability. Have got $25k (or more) invested in glass, so, just wish there was ONE MORE generation out there. The NEXT generation 5DsR, I guess.... ;D
Thanks again.

I got myself a Zykkor from Amazon, I think. It's basicaly an one element 1.3x TC. I intended it for my old FD 50/1.8 but that one lives most of it's time on a dumb FD to EFM adapter. In short: It's possible that it yields better results with other lenses. YMMV.

Just used CPS silver for the first time, a flash repair. Not having to go through a camera store is worth to sign up. For a Zeiss repair, the camera store first sent it to the wrong branch. Simple CLA-repair took over 2 months to get back. CPS less than one week door-to-door. Enough said.

Have enough points for gold, but don't think it is worth it for me. Lens cap and camera strap I can easily dispense with.

Also noticed the environmental message on my two packets. Funny.

I've had something similar with one of my lenses, 24L II. I bought it used, and it focused horribly from f/1.4 to even past f/5.6. It went in with the receipt from the seller (still under warranty), and Canon found that the lens AF settings had to be adjusted. My camera never went in, so they calibrated the lens against their reference metrics. They didn't replace any parts either, so it must be reprogramming/adjusting the lens back into spec. It has worked flawlessly ever since.

AcaciaRee, I'd suggest sending your lens in for calibration. It might also be worth checking the focusing performance with another long lens if you have it or can borrow one. Perhaps the camera's AF module has been knocked around so that the AF point in the viewfinder is not matched with what it is actually focused on. With shorter focal lengths, the problem might have been hidden. However, if the camera does work properly with other long lenses, then it's most likely a lens issue.

CanonFanBoy said:

applecider said:

Good for you hopefully josh will get some great Alaskan images.

For your future I'd suggest the 600 ii over the 400 ii, as I find the 600 hand hold able and able to track BIF at least for short times while the 400 ii is just a little too heavy. If you are buff maybe that's not a worry.

The 100-400ii was just too good a deal for me to resist at 1599$ so I picked it up. I find it very handle able and with great image quality. With the 1 dx and 1.4 ext the hit to focus points for bif becomes noticeable and the f8 largest and need to maintain shutter speed pushes iso to 4000-6400 or more, so dawn and dusk shooting less viable than with a f 4 lens. It is used at maximum length for at least 80% of my shots.

Your needs, strengths may vary.

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I didn't realize the 600 is lighter than the 400. Mostly I considered the 600mm over the 400mm because there is no way I would ever get both... so go long.

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There's no right or wrong choice with the 400 II and the 600 II....just preferences and choices. They are both amazing optics and they both overlap a lot of abilities. The 400 II naturally gains that extra stop wide open. But pop a 1.4x TC on it and it's optics are very close to the native 600. Likewise with a 2x and the 600 with a 1.4x. Where the 600 II shines is it's extra native reach and that with a 2x you gain a further reach than you can realistically with the 400 II and converters. Both are amazing lenses. I've covered birds with my 400 f2.8 LIS and 1.4x along side 500 II and 600II users...and the results were very very close.

Miss J


http://www.isaacimage.com/toronto-boudoir-photography-j/

Zeidora said:

I.e., can you tighten the setting screws to a degree that holds the heads in place, but still permits moving them around?

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Sort of... It's possible to loosen them slightly such that you can reposition them and they'll hold without retightening. But since one screw/knob clamps two of the balls, you sometimes have to do a little pulling to position them exactly as desired, and they loosen up after a few adjustments to the point they no longer hold. It's not like the friction/tension adjustment on a good ballhead, where you set it once for a given load, and you never have to touch a knob until you change the load (e.g. change lenses).

Another option for additional 'local' flexibility is to put a mini ballhead between the flash bracket and the coldshoe. I have a pair of Novoflex Neiger 19 mini ballheads that are really nice, but I also have a Giottos MH-1004 that's plenty robust enough for that use, and at $13-15 is 1/3 the price of the Novoflex.

Another review with RAW samples.

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/canon-eos-1d-x-mark-ii-review-28791/performance

So it's not 'Go on Canon Rumors and start an angry rant about the industry'?

Ok, then I'll go with 'Understand Light'

Yup it is

cenkog said:

Memdroid said:

cenkog said:

Built-in Wi-Fi, GPS & a "Radio Flash Commander" please...

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Inside the grip? That would be the most useful grip ever build.

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No, in-body... An "in-body radio flash commander" is of extreme importance for wedding photographers... Make it Canon, please...

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A full Faraday caged body will not transmit these signals reliably. I think it makes more sense to accommodate those things in a grip.

Old house with lots of "film" grain...

These advantages you list Etienne are concerning. If you need 8k to record for a better composition, perhaps a more skilled shooter in the first place would help. With simulated slider action you lose the spatial movement between foreground and background. This all seems to suggest leading us farther down the road that 4k has already been leading us, which is removing even more decisions from the field and putting them into post-production.

SPL make the best surf housings, they aren't pretty, they are built like tanks and look like them, but they are the best. I had my 1 series SPL advertised here when the forum had a "for sale" section. I sold it on eBay in the end, for more than I paid for it they have that good a reputation.

AquaTech are the only other serious surf housing company I would consider.

niels123 said:

Do you haven a UV filter for this lens, and if so, which one is it and does it fit with the hood?

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I don't have a UV filter that I actually use.
I could only dig out an old, crappy clear filter that I had at the bottom of a drawer (just because that's the only other filter I had at 58mm), the brand is Morris, and it does fit through the hood as well. But like I said I never use it, so I can't recommend it.

How did you get a thumb print on the periphery of a recessed lens? Or are you thinking 'while I am here I may as well clean it all'?
I would say clean the thumbprint you can see, take some pictures and see if there is a problem before worrying more.

j-nord said:

I dont shoot weddings nor will I ever but my understanding is the 70-200 f2.8 IS ii is considered mandatory by pros. At least for the ceremony.

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Yup, this lens is a must for pros. Sorry to say, you had no other choice, cpsico. The 85L II or 70-200 II are the only options, even the 85L focus accurately, it still slow, the probability to miss any moments is pretty big, and you must to worry about it. I prefer to take a dark picture than nothing. I recommend the 70-200 IS II for you.

Don't ever think that both sigma's and tamron's 70-200 will serve you as well as the 70-200 IS II will.

Units with lithium cells are dangerous if not designed and manufactured right. They needs to be under and over voltage protected and charged the right way. Multi cell configurations needs balanced charging. Chinese manufactures don't care.