if its reach you want the amount you proposed for a 300is l combo is equal to a 100-400l mk 1

or even a 400l 5.6 1.4 tele combo both option give more reach and better iq.

also the Tamron 150-600 is also in this price range I was going the route you describe. but if

the Tamron was not back ordered I will have gotten the Tamron.

I would only raise the ISO if you can't get a fast enough shutter speed to hand hold taking the shot. It's digital why don't you just take some test shots with different shutter speeds, look at them on your moniter and see what results you like the most then go with that.

dgatwood said:

AvTvM said:

jrista said:

Even better, make a hybrid device...one that can operate mirrorless with an EVF if the user chooses, or switch back to mirrorslapping OVF mode on demand.

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Such a device would indeed be BIGGER. But you might still not like it, since it would be fairly top-heavy with a "really big hump" to accomodate both: [an even more more complex] viewfinder prism AND the EVF [panel+electronics].

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Not necessarily. If your mirror is reflective on both sides, you could design the camera to use the mirror in all photographs, with the mirror pivoting in the center. Then, place the sensor at the bottom, facing up. Place the LCD at the back of the camera, facing towards the lens. When taking a picture, or when in live view mode, flip it so that the mirror reflects light from the lens down into the sensor, and from the LCD panel up into the OVF.

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That idea is even better! Either way, however you do it, there are ways of fitting an EVF into a camera with a standard mirror-slapping OVF. I'll take it however it's designed.

BeenThere said:

This implies a 40% drop in Canon prices over the same period. Will this be a bonanza for U.S. Canon shooters? I hope so!

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I'm guessing that would mean in UK a 40% rise in prices! ;D

Policar said:

You can't tell, but if you've been spot metering scenes for years (which any of us shooting MF and LF I'm guessing have) you can easily guess

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In defense of my 6d's metering, I'm probably not using it as I'm supposed to because there's no mode that does what I want. I'm mostly at eval, but often don't have the time to use exposure lock. As eval takes the active af point into account - and that's the center at the 6d - it tends to screw up after recompose. It's just that my 60d didn't have that amount of variance like the 6d does, the metering seems to be tuned better on the long-running crop system.

With center-weighted metering it's better, but then you either have to track with the center or be really careful to use expo lock all the time. I wish there would be a "dumb" eval metering that simply matrix-averages the scene and prevents blown highlights :-\ ... esp. on the 6d it's usually no problem to raise shadows.

RustyTheGeek said:

Otherwise, UPS has nothing to do with them.

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Thanks for explaining, in that case it's nothing like the classic franchise of the type "McDonald's, Burger Kind, ..." that keeps spreading like a virus in inner cities and malls.

neuroanatomist said:

More importantly, in my case (and I suspect the OP's), the camera is not set to 'standard' or 'auto-switch' as mentioned in the FW update, but rather 'record to multiple' - I write my RAW files to both cards. In that case, you have the option to select the card used for playback. It's worth noting that movies are recorded to the card selected for playback (although personally I don't shoot movies). When I close the door with only one slot occupied, then turn on the camera, I get a warning that recording to multiple cards is not possible, and the playback card is set to the occupied slot (in my case I always have it set to slot 1, if I remove that card it switches playback to slot 2). When I reinsert a card into slot 1, playback remains set to slot 2.

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That is it precisely. And evidently it's a "feature."

I write RAW to both, and since I have a propensity to break SD cards, I always use CF in my card reader. I didn't know about this feature (should have RTFM, I suppose), and I always close the card door, so it was always switching back to SD. I only ever notice it on the rare occasion I record a short video of my son and it doesn't make it to my computer.

At least now I know a few workarounds: don't close the card door with the CF out, or change it in the menu every time, or pop out the SD temporarily to have it switch back.

Thanks again for the info guys.

RustyTheGeek said:

TAW said:

Thanks for all the comments and ideas. I will certainly strip out the video as I probably say a little more then I should under my breath!

Have a GREAT week!
tom

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You mean audio, right? Although using your 'under the breath' comments during the slideshow of your stills might be fun!

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Correct on both accounts! Thank you.

ramon123 said:

I have been waiting for around 2 years to buy the Canon 70-200 F2.8L IS II and have seen it in the past drop to $1799. B&H and others have been selling it for $2149... What's going on!!!??!?!?!?!?!?

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There is the 6th ave ebay deal.

But if you go to canon price watch, you can get the lens for 1899 as well... so you are paying $100 more than your target price either way. I'd say get it.

Thanks people. I remember, even for the 5D3 it took a while before that happened. I guess I have no option but to wait.

Thank you all for your help! Again, this was my first post and I now have my answer. I am now going to lock the topic as an administrator suggested that I could. I kind of feel like an idiot, but I really had no idea that the unit had that function. So many buttons, dials and menus! Thanks again!

Bob Howland said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

The 28-300L is relatively new, replacing the 35-350mmL just a few years ago. They are pretty slow sellers.

I'm doubting that a slow selling lens will be released in a seriously falling market.

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Does June 2004 qualify as "just a few years ago"?

http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/lens/ef/data/telephoto_zoom/ef_28~300_35~56lis_usm.html

Anyway, it's too late for me. I bought the latest version of the Tamron 28-300 as a vacation lens and it's proving to be pretty good.

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It does to me, I remember all the posts about it then. I've had both the 35-350 and the 28-300 IS. Both are very good lenses when you consider that they have a 10:1 zoom ration or higher. Its very difficult to make a superzoom like that. The lenses were aimed at PJ's, but many of those have found other jobs, since everyone is walking around with a camera phone, and uploads photos of accidents or other urgent news instantly.

here is the 35-350 at 35mm




At 350mm



My 28-300 at 300mm handheld 1/125 sec, cropped to 100% with my 5D MK III.

I think this lens deserves a thread that lasts a bit longer, so here´s one more.

This is a famous clock tower from the UNESCO World Heritage listed town Røros, with the very beautiful and newly restored church in the background. The clock was used for anything from calling for start and end of shifts, time for food, fires etc. In all its simplicity, the clock tower is one of the most photographed places in town.

I don´t do B&W very often, but this seemed to fit the format.

1DX, 1/100s, f5.6, ISO1250

Loving this set-up, although I shoot mainly with a 5D3 or 1DX... this leaf shutter has saved my bacon numerous times. Recent shoot here on the California coast.


Portraits from San Gregorio State Beach, California...

Portraits from San Gregorio State Beach, California...

Way, way, way over my head...

but very interesting to read the more understandable sections. Astrophotography looks like fun but I have no more room to store gear.

Lee Jay said:

The big problem with this review is that most of his problems were due to not reading the manual. Using it as he did, taking single shots in AI servo, he should have set it to focus priority.

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I was going to mention this as well.

P.S. What was painful for me to watch, was the choice to overexpose the ice in the video and in the stills. With Canon's live-view you get live RBG histograms at the touch of a info button so you can expose to the right easily quite easily.

This on a refurb SL1 might be the perfect 'When I don't feel like lugging the 5D3' camera, not too mention adding the pancake for a bit more versatility.

scottkinfw said:

Hey Guys.
Knowing what you all know about the 1DX, and looking into your crystal balls, would you buy one now? I have a 5D3, and have been waiting to see what would be next for the 1DX. I am interested in the low light performance, the better focusing and iq. I think the mps for both the 5D3 and 1DX are fine for me.

It is just that I am seeing dramatic price drops and am wondering if it may be time to pull the trigger. I have the usual trepidation about buying and next month something new and far superior comes out ( though not that likely with Canon, as had been noted).

Thanks to all of you sage 1DX ers.

sek

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Scott....if you need speed, then don't hesitate and go get yourself a 1dx. If you don't need speed, then stick with your 5d3.

Harald Mante: The photograph: composition and color design.
Stephen Shore: The Nature of Photographs.
Roland Barthes: Camera Lucida: Reflections on Photography.

Mantes Book is about applying design rules to photos. Very instructive.
Shores Book is about the mental processes we may have when looking at photographic prints and during making photos.
Barthes Essay presents a conzept of "Reader-response criticism" (in German Rezeptionsäthetik) to photography.

This stuff will not help to make sharper pictures, it is simply to have more fun with Photography.

Greetings Andy

To be sure I bought a shutter count app for my MAC. Based on where my first photo started there were 80 shutter actuations before I bought the camera. Could this be normal testing at Canon?

Its difficult. They will be sold out in minutes or even seconds when there is a sale going, so you have to be patient.

DominoDude said:

Yeah, clean out all Jackdaws or Starlings found inside of the body!
Not sure a rocketblower would be enough for this task though, a flamethrower on the other hand...

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I thought you were joking at first then I took a closer look. I've seen a few of those gatherings here recently, just never had the camera nearby to take a shot.
Is it just me or do large huge gatherings of birds seem to be more commonplace these days?

Well, I rented the Canon 85mm f1.2 II this past weekend, and shot nearly 600 photos with it. I can definitely see why people love that lens... I miss it! Shooting at f1.2 is fun but the pictures it renders of people at f2 are even more amazing IMO. The creamy bokeh combined with the stopped down sharpness and mild compression is great. I ran into a few instances of horrific CA, but rarely. The focus ring and hood leave something to be desired but I don't have any complaints regarding the auto focus speed and accuracy... it nails focus. I liked the little extra working distance the 85mm gave me over the 50mm.

If someone was going to give me one lens or the other to shoot portraits with, I would choose the Canon 85mm all day. With that said, I have a Sigma 50mm Art on backorder at Adorama from the Canon Rumors deal this past weekend. The $1k I saved (minimum) is going to go towards lighting.

I hope someone finds this feedback useful.

serendipidy said:

seattlebirdman said:

Sometimes 960mm FOV is not enough

Here's a BIF at 1920mm - 7D2, 600mm f4 + 2X tele, f8, iso 640, 1/3200, tripod

Rising to the Perch by seattlebirdman, on Flickr

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WOW! Beautiful capture. 8)

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WOW!

Re: {PROBLEM SOLVED. Bought the 7D II} Should I buy the 7D II or the Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HS

slclick said:

Enjoy and please report on your experiences and share your shots. What would I have done? I think you already have a superior body and would have gone with the glass.

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I would too, but I don't have the moolah for the 600L...

Life is full of compromises. Some of them come in the shape of a body - and I am not talking 7D II here