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Sony A6500 NOT Overheating.

Dear friends,

i hereby post a link to a fresh youtube video, showing A6500 & A6300 recording side-by-side. The A6300 overheats and stops at 12:30 but, A6500 keeps going all the way up to 29:59. To be honest, i can't confirm if one shoots 1080p and the other 4K but, i have to trust the reviewers and believe that everything is equally adjusted in both cameras.

Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qM-TkJnr7O0.

Watch for yourselves and make your comments.

Have a nice afternoon from hot, shiny, summery Greece. Enjoy life and all those you love.

Yours
Yiannis.

Lens dilemma- 300mm f2.8 with tc or 500mm f4L MkI

Current gear is 7D2 with 100-400 MkII.
After deliberating whether to go upgrade the body (to 5D4) to give me better low light performance, or to upgrade the lens to a wider aperture, I have decided to go the lens route (I will keep the 100-400 for the flexibility of the zoom). Being very close to getting a 300mm f2.8LIS II to compliment my 100-400 MkII I have just found a good condition second hand 500mm f4L (MkI) advertised and the MkII is way out of my price bracket.

The 300mm is my default position and I have listed below the advantages of each as I see them. But what is harder to define (and where comments based on experience would be fantastic) is whether there a significant difference in image quality between the 300+1.4 and the 500mm?



300mm f2.8 advantages:
lighter, more compact, more handholdable
best part of a kilo lighter than the 500mm so more likely to take it out
with 1.4 TC still excellent image quality and losing 'only' 10% image size to the 500mm
Offers f2.8 if light is really challenging.

500mm f4 advantage:
500mm is 500mm...
with extenders takes me even further
£1,000 cheaper than the 300mm f2.8

500mm disadvantage: bulk and lower spec IS means I will probably end up using a tripod more often.

Any suggestions?

Canon U.S.A. Raises Awareness About the Dangers of Counterfeit Power Accessories

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<em>The New Collaboration Will Promote Consumer Safety Around Intellectual Property (IP) Theft and Safety Concerns Related to Counterfeit Power Accessories</em></p>
<p><strong>MELVILLE, N.Y., October 13, 2016</strong> – Canon U.S.A., Inc., a leader in digital imaging solutions, today announced its collaboration with the National Crime Prevention Council (NCPC) to promote awareness around the safety risks of using counterfeit power accessories, such as batteries, chargers, and external flashes. The production and sale of counterfeit products is an issue that not only affects the consumer electronics industry, but can affect consumer safety as well. The launch of this collaboration is scheduled to coincide with Crime Prevention Month in October, and will continue through 2017.</p>
<p>Together with Canon U.S.A., NCPC will use its resources to provide educational tools to crime prevention practitioners, law enforcement officials, and educators who, in turn, can use those resources to teach their communities about the dangers of purchasing counterfeits. The awareness campaign will also include digital messaging directed to consumers and public service announcements as well as other videos featuring McGruff the Crime Dog®.</p>
<p>Counterfeit items are illegal replicas of real products, designed to deceive and take advantage of the superior value of genuine merchandise. They are produced in a manner that is increasingly more difficult for average consumers to identify, which is why awareness and education efforts are so important. Furthermore, counterfeit power accessories can lead to potentially dangerous results. They typically do not contain important safety technologies and are not tested to meet industry safety standards. As a result, they may overheat, smoke, melt, ignite, or create power surges and electrical irregularities that may cause personal injury or property damage.</p>
<p>“The safety of our customers is of paramount importance,” said Yuichi Ishizuka, president and COO, Canon U.S.A., Inc. “We want to make sure our customers are aware of the dangers of counterfeit power accessories so they can avoid potential risks of hurting themselves or damaging their equipment.”</p>
<p>“As counterfeiting of camera accessories continues to evolve, we want to make consumers aware of this risk so they can keep themselves and their equipment safe,”<u> </u>said Ann Harkins, president and CEO, NCPC. “Counterfeit products designed to look like genuine products from major camera manufacturers may cause damage to people and property.”</p>
<p>NCPC is a private, nonprofit tax-exempt 501(c)(3) organization whose primary mission is to be the nation’s leader in helping people keep themselves, their families and their communities safe from crime.</p>
<p>To learn more about the campaign, please visit <a href="http://www.ncpc.org/stopfakes" target="_blank"><b>www.ncpc.org/stopfakes</b></a>.</p>
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Lens for Wind Cave NP

My family is planning a vacation next year to visit some national parks in the West next year, which would include Yellowstone, Glacier and Wind Cave. We'll be doing a bit of walking/hiking, so I'd like to keep the gear weight down. For most of the lenses I am thinking of bringing, there would be multiple scenarios for their use. The only one that would be used in only one spot would be a fast wide prime (20A). Tripods are allowed in Luray Caverns, but they are not in Wind Cave. Is it worth bringing a fast wide prime for this one spot? The last time I was at Wind Cave was 20+ years ago, and that was pre-camera days.

TDP Image Quality of 16-35 f/2.8L III posted

Behold -- Canon continues its killing streak on delivering terrifically sharp UWA zooms:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=19068

I don't see any (daylight) landscapers giving up their 16-35 f/4L IS for this one as wide open sharpness isn't a big priority for them. (I still see the 16-35 f/4L IS selling very well alongside this f/2.8L III.)

But it would appear that between the 11-24, 16-35 f/4 and 16-35 f/2.8, Canon has everything very well covered now.

Astro folks: nothing on coma listed yet. Looks like you'll need to wait for LensTip for that.

- A

Overpowering bright sun

Gentlemen,

I would be really interested to hear your thoughts/suggestions for the following scenario: summer, clear sky, midday - as bright as it gets outdoors. The subject is two people standing close together (wedding couple portraits). I can rely on an assistant who will carry the head and the battery. The light modifier is a softbox. I want the subject to be well lit and the sky/background to be underexposed 1 stop – Joe McNally style; basically I want to overpower the sun in this situation.

First question – what kind of power am I looking at? 600 Ws? 1000? 1200? I never used any external lights except speedlights so not sure.
And the second question – what should I look for? A flash with detachable battery like the Godox Wistro AD600? A head with a separate battery like Jinbei Discovery DC-1200 or Profoto B1? I will need high speed sync because I will probably be shooting at 1/4000 or 1/8000; HSS should work fine with Godox Wistro AD600 but Jinbei Discovery DC-1200 uses another technology called hypersync which I am not familiar with and which sounds a bit… untrustworthy judging from what I found in internet.

Any suggestions from first-hand experience will be greatly appreciated.

Update to EOS 5DS & 5DS R Coming in 2017? [CR1]

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<p>We’ve been told a couple of times that the EOS 5DS and EOS 5DS R would be updated quicker than other recent Canon full frame DSLRs, which have seen product cycles of 4 years or more. According to an internal Canon product roadmap, there’s a possibility of an EOS 5DS/R/ Mark II coming before the close of 2017 and that there will only be one body to replaces both the 5DS and 5DS R.</p>
<p>According to the viewed roadmap slide, the EOS 5DS/R/ replacement will get a new sensor, though resolution wasn’t mentioned. We can also assume it will have nearly the same ergonomics and features as the EOS 5D Mark IV.</p>
<p><em>More to come…</em></p>
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2 x 5D III with same lens and FW: AFMicroAdj stored only in one *weird*

I was manually tuning a Tamron 85 SP f/1.8 because I got a really weird curve from FoCal and wasn't trusting it. So I was taking pictures of the Spyder LensCal at different MicroAdjustmentValues and than later, on my PC checking the values with ExifToolGUI.

To my big surprise: the body where the camera serialnumber starts with 18 stores these values perfectly fine. it has firmware 1.2.3. The other body (serial starts with 05) had firmware 1.3.3 and stored only 0 in this field, no matter what I entered. Obviously with the exact same lens. I then downgraded back to 1.2.3 and tried again, but without sucess.

Same body, same lens, same firmware, yet only one stores its MicroAdjustmentValues in the raw file :-X

Any comments?

Review: Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 VC G2

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Photography Blog has completed their review of the recently announced and available Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 VC G2. It appears the new Tamron is an improvement over its predecessor.</p>
<blockquote><p>The second-generation Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 offers better image quality, more features, faster auto-focus and more effective image stabilisation than the 2013 version, but the price has increased significantly, so it’s not quite the out-and-out bargain that it once was.</p>
<p>The Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 offers improved image quality with smooth bokeh and excellent sharpness, a very effective and versatile image stabilisation system, and a fast, quiet and reliable auto-focus system. Despite a modest increase in size and weight, Tamron’s optic is still smaller and lighter than the Canon and Nikon equivalents, despite offering a bigger, more versatile focal range. <a href="http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/tamron_sp_150_600mm_f5_6_3_di_vc_usd_g2_review/">Read the full review</a></p></blockquote>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1277358-REG/tamron_sp_150_600mm_f_5_6_3_di.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296">Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 $1399 at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
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Canon 5D IV GPS questions

Hi all,
Two findings:

1. Just returned from New York with my newly acquired 5D IV - which I am extremely content with - I find that the geo tagging on photos from Manhatten is often way off (several blocks). I assume that it is attributed to reduced number of satellites in view, but I didn't have the same problem with my iPhone?

2. Furthermore the geo tagging does not include direction, unlike the GP-E2 I used with my 5D III.

Anyone of you have similar or contrary experiences?

Greetings all
Birger

Snap, Hashtag and Share Your Slice of Australia

HTML:
Australia is as diverse a country as it is vast. Across its breadth, we enjoy a huge variety of landscapes, city scapes and architecture, cultures and communities, sports and passions that make where we live special.</p>
<p>In the spirit of <em>No One Sees It Like You</em>, Canon wants to help all Australian’s capture and share their local community as they see it – that’s the real Australia.</p>
<p>Launching on 10 October 2016, Snap Australia is a four week program through the network of 108 individual News Community Media and their associated websites and social media channels. Each week, you will have the opportunity to shoot practice briefs in the lead up to the big day on 16 November.</p>
<p>Helping you take photos that show Australia in its best light, the Canon Collective Ambassadors in each state will give you simple tips and inspiration through editorials in your local newspaper and online in short videos.</p>
<p>“Snap Australia is a great opportunity to grab your camera and show your community in its best light to the rest of Australia and the world,” says Steve Loughran, General Manager of the <a href="https://www.canon.com.au/en-AU/Personal/imageSpectrum/Community/collective-home" target="_blank">Canon Collective</a>. “We’re looking forward to helping people with simple pointers to take shots that bring out the stories, characters, beauty and passions that make up a community. And because everyone sees things differently, we’ll see loads of unique perspectives come through which is really exciting.” Keep an eye out for us in your <a href="http://www.newscorpaustralia.com/local" target="_blank">News Community Media</a> newspaper – online or in print – and to get involved just visit <a href="http://www.snapaustralia.com.au/" target="_blank">snapaustralia.com.au</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Where is Snap Australia taking place?</strong></p>
<p>The Snap Australia program is a News Community Media program comprising the five community publishing divisions in Sydney/Central Coast, Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth.</p>
<p><strong>How do I get involved?</strong></p>
<p>Keep an eye out for the weekly brief in your News Community Media newspaper or visit <a href="http://www.snapaustralia.com.au/" target="_blank">snapaustralia.com.au</a></p>
<p><strong>Who are the Canon Collective?</strong></p>
<p>The Canon Collective provide people with a range of unique experiences to learn and practice photographic skills together, regardless of age or skill. Why not come and join us?</p>
<ul>
<li>Enjoy unique photography experiences</li>
<li>Meet passionate people</li>
<li>Try the latest Canon gear</li>
</ul>
<p>Take a look at the <a href="https://www.canon.com.au/en-AU/Personal/imageSpectrum/Community/collective-home/Collective-Events" target="_blank">Canon Collective site</a> and select your location for photography events near you.</p>
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Anyone Replacing their Canon 85 1.8 with the Tamron?

Due to space had to use my Canon 50 1.8 STM for a portrait session and it turned out enormously well. Shocking, in fact, for a $150 lens.
But, whenever possible, I do like that 85mm length and currently have the Canon 1.8. Hardly ever use anything under 2.8 (except for indoor sports in terribly lit gyms). The upcoming Sigma looks incredible, but I really don't need 1.4 and it looks huge. The 50-100 makes a massive amount of sense, but it's also sort of big (although not ruling it out entirely in light of probably sticking with crop).
With that, though, has anyone ever switched from the Canon 1.8 to the new Tamron 1.8 and, if so, were you glad you did?
Thanks.

85mm f1.8 requires A LOT of contrast to focus.

Hi guys!

I recently bought a 85mm f1.8. I actually like it, to my surprise better than I liked the L, but there's one BIG issue; I needs a lot of contrast to focus. I mean, I can use One Shot in very dark settings and nail focus easily. But faces in normal flat outdoors light and what I consider bright and normal indoor light it just doesn't hit at all. No use to have the faster AF when it doesn't lock at all.

Is this normal with it?

I tried 20 shots of my daughter with a B1 light and not one shot has sharp eyes. I then switched on the modeling light and suddenly everything is sharp and great. Went out with my son an hour or so before sunset and I didn't have a single sharp shot. And again using One Shot and a very contrasty subject in the same light works.

DIY pipe/conduit supports for lighting?

So I recently came across a Kickstarter for couplers/connectors to make things out of EMT conduit. (I'm not here to shill for them so I'm not going to link them; I bet you can find it if you search, or PM me.)

It got me thinking though: does anyone use pipe/conduit to make supports or backdrop holders, etc.? I'm wondering if folks here have tips or tricks for doing such things. What materials do you use? Did you design it to be broken down between sessions or is it always "up"?

It's not nearly as travel-friendly as a traditional three-legged light stand, but possibly more stable and versatile depending on design? Maybe cheaper too. Even a reasonably cheap Impact background support system is over $100.

Or maybe I'm nuts for even considering this stuff. I'm sure you'll let me know if so. :P

70-300 IS USM vs 70-200 F/4L

¿Have you seen the digital picture lenses image comparison between the 70-300 IS USM and the 70-200 F/4L on the 5DS R?

(http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=358&Camera=979&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=1&LensComp=104&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=4&APIComp=0)

Wide open at @200 (f/5 for the 70-300 and f/4 for the 70-200), the first one wins. Now im clearly even more confused, since i was supposed to make that little jump expecting some quality upgrade.

Now i think i should jump for the F/4 IS version instead. ¿What do you think?

Sony RX100 Mark V

This has to be one of the best kept secrets within the camera industry this year! I was even beginning to wonder whether Sony was going to update the RX100 line or not.

The RX100 brings Fast Hybrid AF with phase detection from the a6300 and new a6500 to the RX line

http://www.newsshooter.com/2016/10/06/sonys-small-miracle-the-new-rx100-v-brings-phase-detect-af-to-small-sensor-cameras/

On paper at least, it seems that Sony has done it again and maintained the RX100's position as the best pocketable quality camera available today.

The article does not mention the menu and I wonder whether that has been updated as Sony is supposed to be updating their menu system.

I am looking forward to trying this camera.

Specs: 315-point AF, 24-70mm f/1.8-2.8 lens, 1,000fps shooting, 2.36 million dot OLED EVF, 24fps up to 150 shots, 1-inch, 21-megapixel sensor

http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/sony-rx100-v-vs-rx100-iv

5d4 soft images/af issue

Hi

I just got my 5d4, and tried it out side by side with my 5d3. I was surprised to see the 5d3 was markedly sharper.

So I thought this must be a afma issue. I set up afma (Spyder lens cal) and tried it out.

I shot with the regular AF, and then using af with live view ......the live view images are razor sharp, the regular af ones are not.

Any ideas?


Thanks!

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