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Flash bracket for use with 600mm f4L IS II

I have been in a couple of situations where I would have liked to have a flash with my 600. I have looked at a variety of alternatives, but it is not easy to decide what the better solution is. So, since there are lots of experienced 600mm shooters on this forum, I´m asking your for advice. Which flash brackets do you have/recommend?

I have RRS L-brackets for my cameras and plates/feet for my lenses.

Canon EOS sensors, and technology

What I find odd in a number of sensor discussions and comparisons of 35 to MF, The size of the sensor takes the main topic of focus while other aspects are sidelined and one of those is more simple and an integral reasons why MF is better quality.

I read a number of posts saying that its only for enthusiasts and such, which is not true. There are legitimate fields of photography beyond landscape that the MF is crucial, such as high end product, and many other macro related shooting that needs details, also some medical segments. Just because many things get dummied down to the web doesn't mean that's it. There are fine print publications and most importantly, trade shows that surge our economy and industries world wide... they need large clear prints.

So the main feature MF renders better IQ is simple. Its the AA filter I have been asking Canon to make optional for a decade now.

There's a reason why Nikon with D800E, and Sony A7R have product lines without the AA filter.
There's a reason why you read in PRO and top forums the bridge from MF and 35 is getting tiny due to the D800E, and A7R!
There's a reason why you have some shooters waiting for Canon, while others are switching to Sony or Nikon for the need.(I'm holding out as much as I can, and at the threshold).

The other reason used to be the photosite size. MF used to be 11-12, 9 microns. Even Canon 1Ds had large ones.
But the tech is getting cleaner, and sophisticated with lenes and such..as we see MF dB's even scale down the microns to around 5-6 to get higher mpixel count.
Anyway...

Bottom line is that the AA free images have a 3D quality mainly due to the image not getting filtered. I remember shooting with the old Kodak DSLRc. The images were very comparable to the PhaseOne P25 files IQ(never mind the color issues it had). Except one was 14~mp vs 22~mp. Like the MF.

It would be my dream for canon to have its own Foveon-like sensor in a 30-40mp of the highest IQ.

No DOUBT Foveon has something special. No doubt they are being protective about it too long for their own good as other technologies develop. License the thing, or use a Canikon mount and let developers find solutions for the megapixel limit. I wonder if Sony has their own version? I think Fuji does with the "Honeycomb" pattern.

CANON!!! Please come up with a 28+mp AA FREE CAMERA!!! How long do we have to wait? If its so important for a few scientists that have little real world expereince, how hard is it to give the option of putting some filter on the sensor, on the glass, or just a model option for those rare niche shooters who do close-up textile work, or those that worry about moire. It rarely happens and is easy to correct. Don't look at it as a flaw. Or buy Foveon from Sigma and make a real IQ based camera. Blow the doors off others and take that segment too!!! DO IT NOW!!(in my best Arnold voice).

Review: Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro

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<p>Bryan over at The-Digital-Picture has posted his review of the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/755344-USA/Sigma_106101_150mm_f_2_8_EX_APO.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro lens</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Says Bryan</strong>

<em>“Sometimes a lens is remarkable for what doesn’t jump out at you – or get in your way. I have been using this lens intermittently for just under two years. It has reliably delivered excellent images for me. And that is what I expect from a good lens – one that I pick to use because of its attributes, not because I happen to be reviewing it.</em></p>
<p><em>I have not kept-secret my love for macro lenses and the fun that can be had with them. Aside from the OS failure issue, this lens ranks right up with some of my other favorites. The Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro Lens is the great-value of long focal length macro lenses.”</em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-150mm-f-2.8-EX-DG-OS-HSM-Macro-Lens-Review.aspx" target="_blank">Read the full review</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/755344-USA/Sigma_106101_150mm_f_2_8_EX_APO.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Sigma 150 f/2.8 OS Macro at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon FD to EOS Adaptation

OKAY ! .. He is what I am trying to do. ??? I have a couple of Canon FD teleconverters and I want to use them with my Canon EOS lenses. I have the adapter ring that mounts the Canon FD lens to my Canon EOS XS. BUT ! I want to mount the an EOS Lens in front of the Canon FD teleconverter. So I need a female Canon FD to Female EOS Coupler ... Is there such a thing ?

Cheap decent softbox for a traveller

Hi,

As you can understand from the topic I am a traveller and I try to go around with less amount of stuff as possible, maybe 3 bags for clothes, camera and so on.

I have to go cheap because unfortunately I don't have a lot of money but I'm sure you can advice me a nice foldable softbox to bring with me.

I forgot to mention that I'm a portrait photographer and I mostly photograph models that are just staring out or trying to built up their portfolio.

Thank you!

Wait for Sigma 50mm Art or purchase Canon 135 f2L.

I'm in the market for a new lens to add to my collection and I've narrowed it down to the upcoming Sigma 50mm Art or the Canon 135 f2L. I realize these are for very different purposes.

I currently have a nice arsenal of lenses and mostly do portrait photography as a hobby (35 f1.4, 85 f1.8, 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f4).

I really enjoy portrait photography. I'm torn between the versatility of an extremely sharp 50mm vs a magical 135mm f2L portrait lens.

Can anyone offer any advice to help me seal the deal ?

Lomography's Petzval Lens - RLPhoto's First Impressions

*Double Facepalm's Face.

Once I took the petzval outside for 30 minutes, I knew this was going to be a love-hate relationship.

Kickstarter funded a New Lomo Petzval Lens designed for 35mm Cam's last year and I signed up for the limited run from serial # 50-200. I paid 500$ for the lens and some neat other accessories that come's with the lens. I also have my name engraved on it so that means re-selling is out of the picture. (which I won't ever sell it because its also a personal lens for keepsakes.)

Sooooooooooooooo... With delays from the project, I got mine today and here my first impressions of this Petzval lens.

Build Quality - 3/5

-This lens has some heft when you pick it up and it feels like a tank being solid brass parts. The lens hood is also solid brass and screws off the front with precision threading from the fine machining. The thumb screw is very fine with no grit and the waterhouse plates slide in with a nice click. The machining is elegant and all the part fit together like a finely crafted classic Victrola.

-However, This lens has openings and gaps all over it asking for dust to enter it's innards. The waterhouse plate gap, the gap around the moving front element, the large gap between the rear element and the mount. Don't expect this lens to remain dust-free for long and definitely avoid water. The plate can slide out accidentally if you turn to a portrait shot too quickly.

Image Quality - ?/5

-It sucks everywhere but the center. Sharp this lens is not but it's passable IF you get focus IF you frame Center or IF you stop down.

-IF you hit focus... This was one of the hardest lenses to get focused because even with liveview, if you frame off-center, it will look OOF because of the field curvature. The knob is smooth but IF you can get lucky to move the tiny nuance you need. (A bigger knob would have helped alot.) I threw away 90% of my frames due to OOF and this lens can be a handful if you subject is moving the slightest.

-IF you stop down, Its much easier but this is not the lens for stopping down.

-IF you can hit all these check boxes, wow you can get some really stunning bokeh. It's not a prevalent as the LF petzval but with a brenzer menthod, I believe this lens can be stunning. I have some very nice shoots coming up soon, and I will report back with more images once I get this lens into the field.

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5D Mark iii LCD Brightness purple glare affecting image?

Hi,

Saturday I discovered a problem with my 5D mark III for the first time since buying it in mid 2013. I have always run 'auto' brightness on the rear LCD, as it has worked perfect. Before a wedding session for a friend, I ended up changing my brightness to full, because I knew it would be a very dark venue, and wanted to try it out. I also changed my max auto ISO to 25600 from 12800, just in case it was needed. I used a 24-70 2.8 II all night.

Halfway through the evening, I had a break, and carefully inspected some photos, and noticed a purple glare in the lower right corner of the LCD, that I had never seen before. After some troubleshooting, I found out the purple glare only occured at 25600 ISO. I tried to think of what I had changed earlier, and checked to see if it had something to do with the rear LCD brightness. If I turned down the brightness (or set it to auto) - the purple glare dissapeared. Likewise, it only seemed to appear noticable at 12800 or above ISO. I had heard about the 'LCD Light leak issue', and figured my body might suffer from this, but after reading about it today, I can see that it has nothing to do with my problem, as it is an entirely different issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Or can anyone try shooting an image with full brightness and at 25600 ISO? I have checked around various sites, and can't really find a mention of this, so I'm thinking it may just be my body that is affected.

See photos below. First one is shot at 25600 ISO at full brightness on LCD - only turned up exposure in lightroom. Second is SOOC.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/roadske/13697213364/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/roadske/13697222304/

85mm questions

Hello guys, I am finding myself needing a portrait lens more and more.
I am thinking of an 85 which would give me an approximate fov of 136mm.
I am debating whether to buy the canon 1.8 or to wait for and upgrade or for the new sigma.
Do you think one of them is going to be realeased soon or should I go ahead and buy the existing canon one.
Thanks
Alex

Sony A7S 12.2 MP 4K video camera announced. Is it good for stills photographer?

http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/04/06/full-frame-sony-a7s-bucks-trend-fewer-larger-pixels-great-low-light-4k

Having purchased and returned the Sony A7R 36 MP high-MP monster, I was hoping for a Sony camera with same sensor but better/faster AF similar to Sony A6000, but this A7S with 12.2 MP threw me for a loop from the left field. With such huge pixel size, it *should* have unheard-of dynamic range at high ISO, something even D800/A7R cannot manage at high ISO. With -4.0 EV AF, it should have fabulous AF in low light, and if color fidelity and IQ benefit from large pixels, this camera could be THE walk-around, low-light monster we have never seen before. Although this camera should appeal to videographers, it could seduce photographers who shoot low-light events.

Hate to say it, but Sony does seem to be towering over Canikon when it comes to imagination, innovation, and appetizing cameras :'(

NAB 2014 Live Blog from Las Vegas

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<p>NAB 2014 in Las Vegas is upon us and we’ll be running a live blog for the duration of the show. Canon has made their announcements and a lot of other companies will also announce and show great new products. More than 20 bloggers are in attendance at NAB 2014 and will be updating the Live Blog on a regular basis.</p>
<p>The live blog is after the break….</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
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// ]]></script></p>

Canon MR-14ex II manual now available.

There are were a lot of blank spaces left when Canon announce the MR-14ex replacement. Finally now that manual has been available for download, looks like the the MR-14ex II is completely worth it.

Best bit of improvement is ability to install a 67mm diameter filter in front on the ring flash itself.
Adjustable brightness of leds.

here is the link for the manual itself-
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/2/0300014702/01/mr-14exii-im-en-fr-es.pdf

1DX battery drain ULTRA fast

I have 2 batteries and they invariably drain way below the shot number allotted, full charge put in the camera shoot about 100 frames let it sit for a day and some times when i come back to it I wake from a sleep. Shoot 20 or 30 more frames and that horrible last click sound of a dead battery when 15 minutes before, the battery said it was maybe one Bar off full.

both batteries do it. now i can shoot 1500 frame or more on a full battery just letting it sleep is a bit sketchy. My 7D just keeps on going and drains at what i would expect it to a long duration or multiple frames over days.


Please look at your 1DX batter life in a few situations tell em what happening for you this seems unacceptable every-time CPS has it they seem to gloss over the problem.

thank you every one.

Speedlite Tutorials?

Hi all, I'm a bit of a photography novice so am looking for some advice. I have just ordered a Speedlite 600EX-RT (and was persuaded to get an ST-E3-RT at the same time!). The reason for this was that I was having trouble getting non-blurry photos at a recent family gathering. It tuned out I had accidentally switched the ISO from Auto to 100, but by the time I discovered this I had paid for the flash! There have been a few occasions when I genuinely needed a flash so I'm not too worried.

From the above, it is clear I don't really know what I am doing. Can anybody point me to a "flashes for dummies" primer so I can take advantage of my new kit? I do landscapes (which are unlikely to need a flash), portraits and wildlife mostly (all amateur). I recently bought the 100mm macro (2.8L), which is probably where the flash will be of most use. I'm guessing the secret here is to have the flash off camera, which is why I didn't protest too much about getting the ST-E3.

I'm using a 5D mkIII and also have the 24-70 mkII and 70-200 (f4L).

Best Buy: Mandatory UV Filter for Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens?

My wife and I were at Best Buy and I was debating on buying the EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens with what little coin I had left on a gift card. I had exactly $125 dollars left - but the salesman insisted that I buy a UV filter for it because without it, UV rays would destroy the lens or my sensor!

I shrugged my shoulders and say that I would have to research this claim - and I walked out.

If I MUST have a UV filter on this lens, why doesn't it come with one or was this salesperson trying to screw me?

Which lens to go with

I need a suggestion on buying lens. I have 70-200 F4 IS. Someone is selling 70-200 F2.8 IS and my mind is pulling me to buy it. Honestly I am very happy with IQ of my current lens.

Below points are lingering in my mind and not able to make decision.

F4 IS F 2.8 IS (V1)
Both got IS
$900 $1100
1.6 lb 2.9 lb
F4 F 2.8 1 f-stop high
IQ I love it. Don’t know…

F4 IS, I already have it with me and I love this lens. But someone is ready to buy it for $900. I get $100 gain in this deal as I bought it for $800.

Not able to decide to go for F2.8 IS or keep F4 IS and use the extra money for Rokinon 14mm F2.8?

I normally shoot, functions, people and nature and I am not earning from my photography ;)

Any help?

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