Would the big upcoming Alaskan cruise (in a week and a half) call for a 70-300L? My current gear is a T1i, Sigma 17-50, Canon 100 2.0 and 200 2.8II (and the associated goodness for waterfalls, bright light, etc.).
Also, would wildlife in bright sun necessarily call for a polarizing filter in many cases or are polarizing filters more of a landscape thing?
Thanks.

I recently got my self a bronica SQ-A and I'm really enjoying shooting on it, I'll post the first couple reels once they're developed, do we have any other bronica/6x6/ medium format film shooters still around on this forum, be nice to hear what you shoot with, a few experiences and what ever else relating to it
Thanks, Harvey.

Hello all,

For anyone interested in the UK/EU, I've just bought a new 430EX II speedlight from Asda Direct for £175.45
(incl. delivery - use the discount code "camera10" to get this price). - compare:

http://camerapricebuster.co.uk/prod.php?n=CanonSpeedlite430EXII&p=717

You can them claim £20 cashback from Canon http://www.canon.co.uk/summercashback/index.html (scroll along the lenses section).

Hope this helps someone!

Just got this today from eBay for 260$ I am very excited to start shooting with it!

Hi,

When shooting candidly with 85mm or 50mm or below focal length lens,

Do you tilt flash head direct to your subject or use bounce card?
or use a diffuser direct or diffuser upward?

How about for telephoto lens?

I just purchased brand new 70-200 f2.8 is ii a few days ago and after half a day of shooting with 5d3 i feel something loose from camera or lens. I am not sure where the movement its coming from but it cannot be heard, i can only feel it (something loose) when tilting the camera or with any movement. So i did some experiments and came to conclusion that the slight movement came from between the lens mount and camera mount. when i firmly press in the lens towards the camera, no play at all.

when the lens is mounted onto camera i can hear the lock engaged and it seems firm but if you were to use a little force to move left or right you can feel little play, there is no up-down movement just left and right. now i am a little concern because i've never own a heavy, nor have any telephoto lens prior to this one so i am not sure if this is normal for telephoto lens or the lens itself needs to be exchange? and my 17-40 and 135 f2 seems perfectly fine when mounted on my 5d mark iii. no movement at all.

does anybody here encounter the same problems with their 70-200 f2.8 is ii.

thanks for your input
Brian

I'm not normally one to talk about my gear. I just like to show my photos. However, yesterday I scored a really nice used Canon 135mm f/2 L. I rented this lens last December, and putting it back in the box to send it back was very, very difficult to do. It didn't come off my camera that entire week.

Ok so I have $3000 +/- to spend on upgrading my kit. I currently have a T1i with kit lens and 55-250.

I am pretty set on a new 6D. Can get it for around $1600 brand new.

So my question is what lens/speedlites do you recommend. I have a carrying bag and tripod already.

Not a professional nor do I intend on being paid for any pictures. Main subjects will be my family/toddler. Occasional landscape/auto pictures. So I guess "recreational" would be a good term.

Appreciate all the help in advance.

Is the Pentax K-01. And I'm not even joking.

I just recently picked one up because the prices are crazy low. <300$ USD low. But they are now discontinued, so fading into oblivion.

Why?
• Price is nice
• This camera is actually WAY more attractive in person (purchased the white model)
• Build quality is great (except for flappy side cover)
• It has the same sensor as the Pentax K-5 & Nikon D7000!?
• Great focus peaking
• Can use all K mount legacy lenses! It's fun to find old manual film lenses and use em on this body
• Pentax also has some really cool "L" lenses of their own... Limited. These things are sexy (but expensive)
• In body IS
• Pentax is so NOT trendy right now that they are cool

Anyone else?

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

Images to follow.

I have a small concern about the leather/soft/rubberized parts of my 50D. As you know its normal color is black, but mine is showing a peculiar whiteness within this black color - specially in the "channels" or "grooves" of those rubberized parts. No problem with the metal parts though. Any idea about this? Thanks.

I'm starting my business as a photographer, and i am trying to decide whether to buy the 5dIII or the 6D. it's a ~1,500$ difference..

I currently have:
T1i
50mm 1.4
70-200 IS 4
(and that 18-55 kit lens..)

the T1i will serve as a second/backup body for now..

I'd be shooting mostly events and portraits, newborns, and.. KIDS. Occasional action (beside the action packed kids...).

I get a message after a event shoot...

"Also, my understanding is that when we hire a photographer for an event, photo shoot etc. that we own the rights to the photos, as we may want to use them in promotional materials etc. "


I'm here in Canada let me know I thought we don't loose our rights unless we actively give them away. I thought in general its used in good faith and if they would want to go on long runs of print material or the image becomes Iconic for them maybe talk about rights/ a per usage cost.

thanks folks for wading in.

chris

I am semi-pro and use a 5D mark III body and I have recently upgraded my Mk 1 lenses to the 24-70mm f2.8L II and 70-200mm f2.8L II.

I have never bothered with any AFMA and the mark II lenses do look sharp - even in 100% crops, but it has always niggled in my mind that they "could" benefit from some AFMA.

Should I be doing it and, without buying a calibration kit, what is the easiest way to do AFMA?

I have heard a method where you tether the camera to a PC and use the EOS tool to do it - this looks reasonably easy.

Saved up enough for a 70-200 f2.8L IS II. Initially I thought I would replace my current 70-200 f2.8L (non IS) with the mark II. But now I am confused which lens to upgrade/replace/consolidate. I like to travel light, and given my travel habit (with family most of the time) I usually take around 2 lenses, a medium tripod, 1x ND filter and a remote trigger.

Travel kit (these two lens combination worked really well for me so far)
16-35 f2.8L II - Landscape
70-200 f2.8L - Landscape/portrait

Family & friends events kit
24-70 f2.8L (have not tried any other lens combination yet)
580 EX II

General walk-around
24-70 f2.8L
50 1.8 II

I would say all my lenses get almost equal amount of usage in a year, and I am pretty happy with these glasses. I guess I am trying to find out which one to upgrade first, or maybe add a prime. At one point I was thinking maybe get the 70-200 f2.8L IS II and a 1.4x Extender first. So my question is, if you were to upgrade one glass from the list, which one would you replace first. Also, if you were to add a glass (for e.g. travel, family events, walk-around, indoor portrait) to the list, then which would one would you consider? Hope I made sense, and thank you for your recommendation and advice.

Anyone have any experience with different vendors and their metal prints? Thoughts on quality, different finishes (ie. brushed satin, high gloss etc.), colors, mounting / framing quality?

Thanks!!!

Anyone got any experience using the Tokina AF 17mm f/3.5 AT-X Pro... i'm thinking it would make a nice small prime for a 100D and my 5D MKIII...

My friend asked me to shoot his friend's wedding reception event. I don't have much details yet, but I understood it's some casual-ish indoor event, couple hours.

So my gear:
5D3, 7D
Lenses: 24-105, 70-200 2.8 IS II, Sigma 14/2.8 and Sigma 50/1.4
Flash: 430EX

How should I go there? Most likely I'm thinking to bring both bodies, instead of swapping lenses on the 5D. I'm kinda leaning towards 5D3 with 24-105 and 7D with 70-200. Then also I should steal/buy/borrow another flash so I can use one on both.

Or any other approach that would work?

So I have a 5d mkiii and when I pair that with a 70-200 is mkii, it draws quite a bit of attention. But people don't have anything interesting to say... it is always like, " that's some camera." I want to respond that they should look in my pants if they really want to be impressed. but no, I just say thanks.

I love talking about gear and I really love talking about the four year journey it has taken me to get here. but nice camera is on par with, some weather, huh? it is vapid and lacks depth.

so are y'all polite and say thanks, or do y'all have a funny line or just ignore em... just curious.

I know most of you will be calling me crazy for saying I don't like the image quality on the 1DX. When I shoot with that camera I see no detail whatsoever in the image. The images appear to be in focus and the exposure is perfect but the images when zoomed in have no detail at all. No matter what I did I couldn't get any of the images to come out tack sharp!

I noticed today Canon is recalling allot of 1DX models because of a focusing issue do you think that's whats causing the degraded image quality?

I returned the 1DX and got another and had the same issue and ended up returning it again and got a 5D Mark iii in my opinion it's insanely sharp and the best image quality I've ever seen. My only issue with the 5D Mark iii is the shutter sound, it is very annoying but I'm trying to get used to it.

I'm currently in the market for a telephoto L lens, but stuck between these two. I've never owned nor shot either lens so that's my biggest issue. Here's the question; which one should I buy? I shoot cars so I'd like to have the perfect 16:9 aspect ratio from a distance, but also get more up close if needed. The 100L will basically knock out two birds with one stone due to the extremely small focus distance, but then the 135L has been crowned the king of the L lenses. Which decision should I make? Your help is appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I'm enjoying my 6D very much, especially for taking pictures of our new born, seems to be the perfect camera for that. I have had some trouble with taking nice pictures of the hands and feet because I have trouble filling the frame with my 50 1.4. The 28-135 is doing somewhat better, but not by much. The closest I can get is still too far away. Soooo, what can I get to make it better?

1. There are extension tubes both from canon and other manufacturers.
2. I saw a kind of filter that was basically a magnifying glass, not sure what it's called.
3. A 100 2.8 macro (not sure wether L or non-L, yet) is on my wish list as both a portrait lens for the Ff I have now and some macro stuff I have been wanting to try out. Just wanted to get a better standard zoom first, but might be flexible if options 1 and 2 aren't good.
4. Any other cheap or otherwise useful lens?

Which would be the most cost efficient or best way? Do options 1 and 2 offer significant IQ advantages over shooting with my 50mm and cropping (what I do now and obviously the most cost efficient...)?

Thanks!
RadioPath

Have any of you tried the above combo?

I currently have the Kenko 2x Pro 300 DG (red dot) which is okay for the money (cost about £110) but images aren't quite as crisp as I'd like so I don't use it that often. Can any of you comment on the sharpness of the 300mm with the mk3 converter or post images? Also, is the AF speed still acceptable to you? I'd be using the combo for airshows or birds in flight etc.

Whilst I'd rather have the 500mm f4, I'm thinking of the cheaper option first! If I got the mk3 TC I'd probably also buy a Wimberly Gimbal head too.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Body is a 5D3.

Replaced my 5dmkii with a 6d. One of the nice features is the 'Silent shutter' feature.

But are there any disadvantages with using this? I believe the frame rate is reduced, but I didn't buy the 6d for that, and in single shot mode, it's not going to be an issue.

I can see a nice clear 'click' sound might be ideal in studio work. But for travel or street photography, any reason why I shouldn't leave it on silent shutter continuous shooting mode all the time, apart from when i might want max FPS?

Hello all,

I was watching some great classes last week on Creative Live...special series on lighting.

I saw some great speakers using light meters, and I think I'd like to get one. They all seemed to be using various models of Sekonic, so I started looking at them.

I can't seem to figure out what makes one model more desirable than another and what is setting the price point on each...

I'm guessing they all meter light similarly...you put in a couple of variables, ISO, shutter speed maybe, and wham, you get your settings.

But what else are they doing?

Also, I'm seeing what I'm guessing are older models that are all manual dials...newer ones seem to have touch screens. At first I like the touch screen, however, I was thinking that actually might be MORE difficult to operate with one hand (camera or flash in other, etc)...I'm constantly fumble fingering my iphone for instance, and that might be a PITA on a meter I'd think.

Thoughts on this?

I have a canon 5D3, and am starting with a collection of two 600EX-RTs....what would be the best meter for the money?

I don't mind spending some cash, if I have to wait and save for the best one I need that's cool, I prefer to save and buy the best I can get right off to bat, rather than a cheaper one, then find I want something else..etc.

Are there other comparable brands?

So, if ya'll could help on what matters and what to look for feature-wise in a light meter..I'd certainly appreciate it!!

Also, I'm guessing these would be helpful for video with my 5D3...or is that something special to look for in a meter?

TIA,

cayenne