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Pinhole Photography

I put this under lenses talk (proper, i don't know...?).

I would love for this thread to be a place where people can share their tips, experiences and questions about pinhole photography.

I have a few questions: I have seen several wesites that sell pre-drilled Canon caps for pinhole photography.

-Has anyone used them, and is it safe to use (I wonder if it is asking for trouble with dust on the sensor..)? If you have, what settings did you use to get the best results.

Feel free to post pictures you have taken with the pinhole technique.

Kind regards,

Gerhard.

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  • Poll Poll
Canon 5D Mk3 Reliability

How's it been for you, the 5D Mk3 owner, so far?

  • Been bullet-proof for me!

    Votes: 105 86.8%
  • Has had software issues.

    Votes: 6 5.0%
  • Had mechanical issues such as shutter etc.

    Votes: 4 3.3%
  • Took it back as I couldn't trust it.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other: Please add your experiences below.

    Votes: 6 5.0%

Seriously thinking of selling my 5D Mk2 now that I can get a Mk3 for around £1800.


The 1DX just isn't realistic for me given the price and the Mk3 has advantages for what i shoot. The question isn't whether I want one regarding its features. I think it would be a great upgrade now.


Anyhoo, I'm seeing issues regarding reliability popping up on this and other forums regarding issues with it.


I'm concerned that I'll be going from the 5D Mk2, which is pretty much bullet-proof at this point due to how long they've been making them, to something that might let me down due to teething problems which seem to persist over a year since it was released.




Your thoughts, please?

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Ok, I just snagged a 600EX-Rt, now what? (Questions on use, and going forward).

Hi all,

Thanks to the forum here, I snagged a refurb 600EX-RT from Canon. (I'm still trying to figure out why they charged me freakin' sales tax on an online store, I've not heard of a Louisiana Canon B&M store here, but I digress).

So, first thing, I'm reading through the strobist site and doing research. First think I'm painfully aware of, that except for some instances of bouncing light off the ceiling, and having the little card catch some light off that for face fills on that type shooting, you're never really wanting to use the flash on camera.

So, question one:
Does this flash come with some type cable to hook to the hotshoe to the flash, to allow you to shoot with camera in one hand, flash in the other?

Question two:
Looking a the Canon ST-E3-RT. I found it on amazon.com for $299 shipped, that's not a bad price is it? If so, that starts me off well for this and future growth with flash off camers.

Questions three and more:
For quick multi-flash setups...starting out before I can buy the ST-E3-RT or another Canon RT speedlight...would I be able to get some cheaper flashes right now to use with this flash? For instance, I'm thinking of trying to learn manual shooting (based on a great CreativeLive class the other week), could I get something like the Yongnuo YN-560 Speedlights, and have them fire off (optically?) when they sense the main 600EX-RT go off?

I've seen refurbs for those in the $55 shipped range..and thought this might be a neat way to get3-4 more flashes to play with cheaply to use with my new purchase right off to bat, which again, would be cool for learning to shoot flash manual...and would hold me till I can save to get more RT controlled canon ones in the future.

Thoughts?

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

cayenne

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Do you wish your 70-200L were black?

Today for the first time ever I saw a refurbished 70-200L IS II 2.8 in stock. Never saw that before. Usually it's out of stock almost immediately. It was very tempting! !! But I decided to hold on to my f4 version and a 135L. It's nice to combine them in one package but it's nice when I want to be stealthy with the 135.

The white color is too showy. I always feel that it attracts unnecessary attention.

Boy...it's still tempting

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Disappointed with 50 f/1.2 sharpness @ f/1.2

Learned friends,
One week ago I bought the Canon 50 mm f/1.2 for my new 5D Mark III, specifically for the very shallow DOF at f/1.2.
I am however disappointed with the sharpness of the lens at f/1.2. At f/2.8 its excellent.
I enclose two 100 % crops showing some text at f/1.2 and at f/2.8. The two images were taken at an angle of about 30 degrees, thus making the test independent of AFMA settings - it is clear that there is a focus shift, but that is not what I am complaining about.
I trust that you will agree that the f/1.2 image is a lot fuzzier than the f/2.8 image. My question to you experts is whether such a difference in sharpness is to be expected or if I should return my glas? Your help is highly appreciated :)

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Patent: Canon Foveon Sensor

HTML:
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<p><strong>Canon still working on Foveon Technology

</strong>Canon has been working on 3 layer Foveon sensor technology for a while now, it still hasn’t appeared in a camera and we haven’t heard anything to say it will. However, the fact they continue to spend resources on it, tells us there is definitely a good application for the technology.</p>
<p><strong>Patent Publication No. 2013-93553 (Google Translated)</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2013.5.16</li>
<li>Filing date 2011.10.4</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Imaging element of three-layer structure</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Photodiode deep layer (hereinafter, PD) in the charge is diffused into the substrate</li>
<li>Thus sensitivity is poor red</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Canon patent</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>I as a photonic crystal of irregular shape, the boundary surface of the PD of red or green,</li>
<li>In the periodic structure of uneven spacing, less than twice the 1/4 times or more the wavelength of light, or I shall be two times or less 1/2 times or more</li>
<li>Irregular shape has the properties to be spatially-localized or resonant light</li>
<li>The incident light is diffracted, it combines with the light of the boundary plane, the resonant</li>
<li>Prolonged exists than normal, the light becomes easy to be absorbed by the PD Thus</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-05-22" target="_blank">EG</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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50mm.. Upgrade or not?

Hi guys

Probably done this subject to death, although I am considering getting the 50 1.2 (currently have the 1.4).

I am a semi pro wedding photographer mainly as well as portraits and have two 5D3's, 24-70 II & 70-200 II with a 50 1.4 for low light and bokeh shots as and when needed.

I guess I am a bit of a snob and do love my L gear which is why I am considering the 50 1.2 as an upgrade. There appear to be loads of good and bad reviews and its not like I have money to waste although I can afford this lens but obviously dont wanna waste money.

I am not really interested in the 85 1.2 as I feel the 70-200 covers this range well enough, I can live with the 2.8 and love the IQ and use of this lens so much I wouldnt want to take it off in place of a prime hence the 50.

I did have the 35L last year which was nice but I tend to find its a bit wide for portraits/make up shots and you really do need to get up in people's faces.

So, who would recommend the 1.2 over my current 1.4 to complete my 24-70II & 70-200II combo?

Cheers

Sy

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Olympus OMD EM5 or 6D

I'm going to college next year, so I'm looking for a new camera to replace the one I have now.
I currently have a T1i with a 18-55 kit lens and a 70-200 f/4.
I'm thinking of getting an EM5 instead of my previous choice, a 6D, because of the portability factor.
I will probably give my camera to my older brother after I get my new camera, but I'm sure I'll stay quite loyal to the Canon brand (meaning that I will probably still get back to photography with these larger cameras in the future).

My current plan is to sell my 70-200 and get a EM5, but I would like to hear some thoughts before I do this, considering the differences between micro 4/3 and full frame...

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Magic Lantern adds raw histogram/auto-ETTR & raw silent DNG bursts :-)

One more reason to use Magic Lantern not only for video: With the new capability to read raw sensor data they've got two great new amazing features for still shooters.

* Raw histogram even in "normal" photo-mode (& of course live view): Unlike the Canon version you can see beyond the jpeg range, this should be a great even for people who never used ml before. Also it's amazing that Canon *didn't* add this feature in their fw, not even for 1d cameras...

* Automatic ETTR: Now you can auto-expose to the right to max. dynamic resolution & minimize noise with clipping prevention!

* Silent DNG burst pics (capture the live view image w/o flipping the mirror) - it's not full raw resolution and it might show the usual movie moire, but you can capture successive shots in 14bit raw as long as your cf/sd card can keep up :-) ... for example my 60d takes 53x 1737x1156 shots in <10sec, other more newer & better camera bodies have a larger lv resolution and deeper buffers für 100+ shots.

These features aren't yet available for all cameras, if you want to try you've currently got to use a nightly build: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?board=33.0

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Canon EOS 70D Coming in July? [CR2]

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<p><strong>Marketing for the new camera now under way

</strong>We’re told that the EOS 70D is in final testing and in the hands of some ‘Explorers of Light’. Canon is currently in the middle of production on a few commercials for the 70D that have been shot at various spots around the globe.</p>
<p>It currently looks like July is when we’ll see the replacement to the 60D finally get announced.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Downgrading my equipment - looking for advice

I fell down some stairs a few weeks ago and hit my head pretty bad. Now I'm in the process of reducing and downgrading my camera gear collection.

My issue is that I have all this great and expensive gear, but I feel that most of the time it's a complete overkill. I have come to realise that, while it's fun to have, I do not need all of this. Therefore I have decided to sell it and replace it with something more affordable which is "good enough".

I have already sold away most of my lenses (8-15, 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 and more), fortunately for about the same price as I purchased them for. I am now left with my 5D mark III and a 24-105mm F/4. The 5D will be gone within the week as I already have a buyer for it. I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the 24-105mm yet.

My plan is to spend the money I get for the 5D III to purchase my "new collection". I already know I want a 7D or a 1D mark III (I have owned both before), but I am not so sure about which lenses to get. I am going to get mainly primes as I want the low light capability for the few times a year I photograph concerts/festivals. I'm planning to purchase most if not all of the gear 2nd hand.

I am not too familiar with Canon's non-L lineup and I am looking for advice on which lenses I should look for and which I should keep away from, if there are any "underdog" lenses that I must have, etc... I am also looking on advice regarding purchasing a 135mm f/2L USM & 200mm f/2.8L II USM vs a similar non-L counterpart.

So here's what I'm thinking:
- Body: 1D mark III or 7D (have owned both before, so I know what I get)
- Wide-angle: Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 (don't see any other options here as I don't want the slower Canon)
- Normal: 50mm f/1.4 (other suggestions?)
- Medium tele: 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2 or 135 f/2L (not sure where to place myself here, suggestions / recommendations?)
- Tele: 200mm f/2.8L II (any other options?)

Regarding focal lenghts and what I use most: When I were shooting with zooms I was all over the place. However I do especially like the 200mm end of a 70-200. I am also fond of the wide angle end of a 24mm on full frame. All in between is based on need. The concerts I shoot normally have quite large pits, and is not of the indoor club type where you have to crouch down on one knee to avoid blocking the view for the audience. I am going to base my selection mainly on what I need for concers as I figure if I can fullfill that I can probably make due with that gear for the rest of my photography.

Any help / advice is greatly appreciated


- AlexB

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Speedboster and AF speed

Yes I know, maybe wrong forum or thread?

I have a Sony NEX6 as a second camera when I don't bring my 5D III with me, but I still want to be able to use my EF lenses sometimes. I have a EF 24-105 L, a EF 70-200 L II and a small nifty fifty.

Maybe I chose the wrong path here but since the EOS-M wasn't so good it just resulted in this.

Planning to get a Metabones Speedboster so I can use my EF lenses on the Sony NEX6 sometimes, mostly for stills but how does the AF speed compares to the EOS-M with their M-EF adapter?

Or should I wait for the EOS-M II and replace my NEX6?

Thanks in advance, Stolpe

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Recommended Lenses for 60D

I have canon 60D with (18-55mm) and (canon 50mm 1.8) lenses. I am thinking to upgrade my lenses who could cover portraits, landscapes and macro photography.

I have heard that Tokina 11-16mm is sharpest landscape (inexpensive) lens, Also canon 85mm is great for portraits. However, i dont know best Macro lens yet.

What would you recommend me to get for 60D, It would be great if recommended lenses are also workable with full frame body as i might buy 5D3 next year (but its not necessary), All i am focusing to get best camera lenses for my Canon 60D to cover all kind of photography range.


Thanks

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5D3 max iso for Milky Way

Hi,

I have read quite a lot on this topic. I want to shoot some milky way shots on my next vacation.

Now I am shooting with a 17-40 and was wondering what the 16-35 could do.
I mean if I go f4 6400iso and 30 sec, would I see more stars than with f2.8 640iso 30 sec after post processing?
I ask this question because I see many photographers on 5D2 using 3200iso or even 1600iso with 2.8.

Also 6400 iso on 5D3 with long exp noise red, in post processing the noise will be almost completely gone?
Because if I could use f4 for stars and dont need extra stop, I dont want to invest money in a better glass.

Thanks!

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Is the Sigma 35 supposed to be as sharp as the 70-200L?

A lot of people say the Sigma is razor sharp. It just isn't nearly as sharp as my 70-200L. It is only as good as my 50 1.4. Don't get me wrong. I think it's not bad. It's just not as sharp as I was hoping. Things look nice on LCD but come out slightly disappointing on monitor. Its AF seems slow too, not as snappy as I wanted. I've never used the 35L so I can't compare. Am I expecting too much? After all, a wide angle is more difficult to make than a tele. Do people really sell their 35L to get this? Well, maybe I have a bad copy...

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