Threads

jrista · Dec 4, 2013

There is already a stars above thread, but that one seems to be about wide field astrophotography. I've been taking a bunch of photos of the comets flying through the sky lately. Only ones I was able to get a decent shot of was Lovejoy R1 (see the Comets thread).

I discovered an intriguing new technique for stacking very short deep sky frames in photoshop, one which nearly eliminates noise without affecting detail. I've been trying to stack short (i.e. 1-2 second) frames of the Orion nebula for a while, never with satisfactory results...always still too much noise. This new technique resulted in my first fairly decent photo:

Body: Canon EOS 7D
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8
Exposure: 1s f/2.8 ISO 1600
Frames: 30

I stacked the frames in the following way:

[list type=decimal]
[*]Import as Layers to Photoshop fron LR
[*]Align all layers (did it manually, auto-align freaked out for some reason)
[*]Select first 5 layers, Layers->Smart Objects->Create
[*]Set stacking mode to mean, Layers->Smart Objects->Stack Mode->Mean
[*]Repeat 3-4 for each group of 5
[*]Rasterize each smart object
[*]Set opacity mode to (from bottom most light frame): 100%, 83%, 66%, 50%, 33%, 16%
[*]Set blending mode to Screen for all light frames
[*]Add Levels adjustment layer and correct black point, white point, and gray point to bring out most detail
[*]Tweak color, levels, curves, etc. to taste
[/list]

canon23 · Dec 4, 2013

Ok ok, so the Sigma 24-70 f/2 doesn't exist, yet. But it's rumored to be in the works and might be available next year. So this begs the question...

would you buy the Canon for $1700 or wait for the Sigma (f2!!)?
I'm starting out as an events photog, mainly weddings and currently have:

5D Mark II & III w/
Canon 24-105 (will sell this once 24-70 is purchased)
Canon 70-200 2.8 II
Sigma 35 1.4
Canon 50 1.8

Your input is much appreciated!!!

cep500 · Dec 4, 2013

Heard unfortunate news that a good friend and very capable marketing rep for Canon USA was recently laid off. Did Canon do a larger round of layoffs, and if so, why? Or was this just a "spot" reduction of people.

Between this and the lack of DSLR product coming out of Canon right now, I'm feeling less than enthused about this company's direction.

entlassen · Dec 4, 2013

Does the Test Fire button on the Yongnuo YN622C act as a standard wireless shutter release?

1) Can you half-press the button to make the camera Auto-Focus, and then full-press the button to take the shot?

2) If you hold down the button, can you shoot in continuous burst? (assuming no speedlight mounted, so no power cycling cooldown)

Basically I'm trying to figure out if the button on the YN622C acts exactly like the camera's shutter button.

Note:
I made a similar thread regarding the Canon 600EX-RT at http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=18425d
A poster replied that the 600EX-RT's release button has neither of the two functions I asked above.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that many standard wireless shutter releases (e.g. Satech WRT-A, Vellos Wireless Shutterboss) require a receiver brick to cold-mount onto the hot-shoe, which means I can't mount a speedlight onto the hotshoe. I am trying to find a wireless shutter release solution that allows me to have a remote release button that acts exactly like the camera's shutter button yet allows me to have a speedlight on the hotshoe at the same time, should I have need to.

Thanks!

StickToYourGuns · Dec 4, 2013

So, over the last few months I've taken an interest in Photography. It's a long story but needless to say I work at best buy, and unlike most of the Best Buy horror stories, our store is lucky enough to have a seasoned photographer who has 30+ years of experience and is just a pleasure to talk to and be around.

He has honestly brought out the photo bug in me that has honestly been wanting to come out for a long time, and with that I want to purchase a camera. I've racked my brain for these few months with all the most popular questions, Canon vs Nikon, APS-C vs FF, and the like, and still cannot honestly come to a conclusion.

I want to shoot:
Concerts (Primarily)
Portraits
Street Photography

Now with the types of photography I want to do, obviously low light is huge. At first I was leaning towards a nikon D7100, as its AF assist lamp seemed like a huge benefit to low light, however for street photos or concerts I won't be using this and therefore renders that point moot.

I'm basically down to the Canon 70D or the Nikon D7100. I know what the basic turnaround here is, "If you want to do any kind of video, go 70D, if you want pure image quality, D7100." Is this the bare bones answer? Working at best buy I have tested them both, and honestly the Ergonomics on the Canon feel much nicer and I enjoy the layout, but if someone can convince me that the features and overall quality of the D7100 is all around better, I could easily be swayed in learning to deal with the layout and feel.

And as a final note, my budget basically is enough for either the 70D or D7100, so roughly $1150 or so. Since this is my first camera, is going with either the 70D or D7100 the smart choice, or should I honestly just save up for the Full Frame, like the D600 which is only $1500 currently? My brain hurts guys, help!

tiger82 · Dec 4, 2013

My new camera fund has reached $3000, barely enough for a used 1D4 or a new 5D3. Looking around, I can also get a Sony A7R with 36MP, ISO 25600 and a 24-70 f/4 FF lens. Or do I keep going and hope to get a lower priced or refurb 1DX for another $5000. I would like a camera for low light stage events.

entlassen · Dec 4, 2013

I know that with two 600EX-RTs or one 600EX-RT + ST-E3-RT, that the off-camera flash unit has a button that can act as a remote shutter release.

My questions are:
1) Can you half-press the button to make the camera Auto-Focus, and then full-press the button to take the shot?

2) If you hold down the button, can you shoot in continuous burst?

Basically I'm trying to figure out if the button on the 600EX-RT acts exactly like the camera's shutter button.

Thanks!

CarlTN · Dec 3, 2013

Hello all, hope you're having a great holiday season!

I am on the fence, can't decide what to buy next. (I know I want the 70-300L, but only at a good price.)

Pardon my long-winded-ness. You're welcome to just skim over this and focus on the parts in bold, or else not read it and just tell about your favorite compact camera(s).

I recently bought a small powershot camera as a gift, refurbished via Canon's website. So far I think it will work well, and for approx. $49.50 including tax and free shipping, I thought why not take a chance? It might get some rough treatment, and very likely will get scratched up, so that's why I didn't want to spend more. I can't believe the little viewfinder zooms! And the tiny lens is f/2.8 at the wide end, faster than my SX150IS.

I guess my question is, is there a viable cheaper alternative to the Sony RX100? (The goal being a somewhat pocketable compact camera with very good image quality). I notice the Samsung NX300 appears to have the same sensor, as does the (perhaps older?) NX1000...which seems to be approaching "nice price" level, close to $350 new via amazon. If this is the same sensor as in the RX100, then that seems like a lot of image quality for the money. I notice the white color version of the NX300 is $50 cheaper than the other colors, as well as the Sony RX100, at $499.

It's likely the NX1000, as a camera, is somehow no good, but I thought I would ask the opinion of the smartest and most insane camera people I know of, so I am posting this here!

I will admit that, given the large 20-50 lens that comes with it...it makes it a lot less pocket-able than the RX100. So that's not good.

Ideally I would like to spend a good bit less than $500. I figure it's either this, or a Canon Rebel T5i refurb body (as a "backup" to my 6D) for $419 (if any more magically become available at that price)...or perhaps both a Rebel and a compact camera...or neither?

For a while I thought the Pentax K-01 looked interesting, but no longer. In the past I've owned the Nikon P7000 (which I felt was better than the G12 or G13, given the longer zoom and the lighter weight...and the 40% cheaper pricetag). Also I owned the Sigma DP2. The Sigma could have fantastic image quality, but I was happy to churn out about 6000 images and then sell it a year and a half later. Recently I printed a lot of 16x20 images on metallic paper, and the ones from the DP2 are mind-blowing! I used PR 7.5 to scale them, but PS would have done about as good.

I would like to own the DP series Merrill camera(s), but that's just a lot of money for a pocket camera, for me right now. Especially considering I've spent like $3500 to $4000 on cameras and lenses over the last year or so...which is huge money to me! Obviously I plan to sell a couple of those lenses...

The only compact camera I have now is the SX150IS. Laugh if you must, but I absolutely enjoy the ergonomics. Admittedly it's a tiny sensor and there's no RAW capture, and it's "only" 14.1 MP within that small sensor. But from ISO 200 and below, it's printable to 16x20. That's a lot of camera for $135 new (or the current refurb price of what, $80? $70?). I've made money with this camera...Oh, and I almost forgot the image stabilization. In my opinion it's approaching 5 stops, at least at the telephoto end.

I also came across the Fuji XF1 via amazon at only $199 (originally it was like $500). However, having read about its problems, I decided not to bite. I highly doubt its sensor compares to the aps-c one in the Sony RX100...since it's smaller, etc.

The reason I don't mention the G15, is because it seems like the image quality is low for even the discounted price of around $299. I also don't like that its zoom range is so short. If I'm going to give up a wide range zoom, then the image quality needs to be a couple of levels above the G15.

I'm most grateful for your thoughts and input!

revup67 · Dec 3, 2013

Before considering a purchase of this lens, it was highly recommended to obtain a rental or loaner. I joined the CPS program, paid the annual fee and requested the 600mm as a loaner. The time period was from its arrival on 11-22-13 to 12-3-13.

My intent was to man handle this lens without use of a tripod or monopod for the entire duration on a Canon 5D Mark III. This would include 1-4 hour segments most every day including hiking on dirt trails, paved trails and the like.

I found one key trick to this whole process and that was to use a 3/8" male threaded cone shaped handle that would screw into the lens foot. (see attached photo). Along with the lens strap and camera strap, this was going to be my sole means of trekking with this lens. (I'm a 54 year old male, about 175 lbs. and workout approx. 2x a week for the past 13 years). I've only offered this info for no other reason other than to help formulate what it might take "should you desire to carry this lens hand held" vs. using a tripod with Gimbal or monopod. Let's put it another way, weight and cardio training will be to your advantage. Some of us out there would not buy such a lens if it is going to require anymore than carrying a lens and camera body though I know many that wouldn't consider it any other way than have a tripod/monpod and gimbal. A close friend of mine carries around a 1D IV and a 500mm on a Gitzo tripod with a high end gimbal head. I thought that was far too cumbersome for my personal taste so opted to hand hold the entire time. Again, that's just me and just trying to offer some confidence for those of you used to carrying around a 100-400 or a 400mm prime..this is solely the point here and potentially do able but testing this scenario first is recommended.

If you've not seen the lens in person, it extends with the lens hood about 28" with camera body total was close to 31".

Overall, I had excellent success (about 95% wild birding shots). I found that by using F4 was a disadvantage as when focusing on the birds eye especially at close range the DOF is wafer thin. So shooting at 1/1000 or higher in Tv mode and letting the camera select the Av was not a good choice. I reverted to Manual, F8 most of the time with a shutter of 1/1000 or higher and saw a significant improvement on my birding photos. If you are not familiar with the DOF calculator online, this would be wise to look into especially in using this type of lens.

In using the 5D Mark III my choices outside of the shutter and aperture were of course AI Servo, Case 2 tracking, Faithful, Evaluative and Auto ISO. On the lens itself, I was mostly on Mode 1 (sometimes Mode 2 when tracking birds in flight), IS was "on" (though I am aware of using IS beyond 1/640 shutter. I did try with IS off and noticed my hit rate went down quite a bit as to be expected.

I noticed "this lens" was quite slow "initially" finding a bird in flight. More specifically, a bird in flight against the skyline. I am unsure if this was my particular loaner or a possible camera choice. In either case, outside of this skyline issue, the focus was extremely fast and the drain on the battery was minimal. On average about 33% battery drain per day. I did encounter yesterday a lockup on the camera with a flashing "A" in my view finder. A simple reboot cleared this and I went on with my shoot. In calling Canon, they had not heard of this flashing "A" but are going to check the 5D this afternoon.

All in all, its quite impressive as you would imagine and if you have your eyes and wallet set on this, I would strongly recommend renting or acquiring a loaner first. Buying this sight unseen (for those that have never used a lens of this magnitude prior) may not be a wise choice as I wish to emphasize it's very cumbersome. For those of you coming off a NON IS version or Version 1 you'll notice a big improvement in weight distribution. its truly well balanced in that respect.

I hope this write up will help anyone out there considering the 600mm IS II lens. If you're interested in seeing some birding photos and similar with this lens my flickr account is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/revup67/with/11185308965/. Thanks for reading.

Rev

entlassen · Dec 3, 2013

I'm looking for a wireless remote for the 5D Mk III. I looked at the default option, which is the Canon RC-6. It's relatively cheap ($20) and has the Canon brand, but after looking at many reviews on Amazon and B&H, it seems to have a few problems:

A) It uses the IR receiver on the 5D's front, which anytime you shoot from behind, you have to annoyingly and awkwardly angle your arm around the front of the camera if you want the signal to go through.

B) You can't trigger the AF by half-pressing the remote button; all you can do is press it the full way and take a shot.

C) You can only use the remote in conjunction with the 2-sec delay and 10-sec delay modes.

With all these problems, I'm looking for an alternative to the RC-6.
My questions:
1) I know an IR remote will probably always encounter Problem (A). But can anyone recommend a well-reviewed IR remote that doesn't have Problem (C) and especially Problem (B)?
2) If I want to bypass Problem (A) I'm guessing I need to buy a remote that requires a wireless transceiver module attached to the 5D. All the ones I've seen are big, bulky bricks that mount to the hotshoe and require me to run an annoying wire between it and the camera. My buddies who have Nikon D800 all seem to use the RFN-4s, which is a tiny receiver that doesn't need to take up the hotshoe and doesn't require the wire.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PCDSBQ/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've tried to find if there's a version of the RFN-4s that works for the 5D but haven't found one. Does anybody have any recommendations?

Thanks!

Canon Rumors · Dec 3, 2013

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<p><strong>From our own Justin Van Leeuwen

</strong>Our reviewer Justin spent some time with the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/973129-REG/canon_5176b002_ef_200_400mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296/kwid/justin" target="_blank">Canon EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x</a> and <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/review-canon-ef-200-400-f4l-is-1-4x/" target="_blank">did a review that didn’t include birds or bears</a>. One of the shots was a unique model shoot using the lens as well as the PocketWizard Plus IIIs so he could trigger his light from 1600 feet away!</p>
<p><strong>Says Justin about the PocketWizard Plus IIIs

</strong><em>“What impresses me though, is that those PocketWizard’s made it from transmitter on the camera to receiver 1600 ft away, over a moving river, up to a cliff, and set off my Elinchrom Quadra pack reliably and consistently. Wow. I highly recommend these if you ever need to shoot between provinces or states.”<strong>

</strong></em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://blog.pocketwizard.com/?p=7550" target="_blank">Read the story at the PocketWizard blog</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/844969-REG/PocketWizard_801_130_Plus_III_Transceiver_Radio.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">PocketWizard III at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p>Get more of Justin Van Leeuwen on <a href="http://jvlphoto.com/" target="_blank">his site</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/jvlphoto" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, and <a href="https://twitter.com/justinvl" target="_blank">Twitter</a>.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

JohnDizzo15 · Dec 3, 2013

So over the Thanksgiving weekend, I finally gathered the nerve to just let go of my 5D3 as I was offered a fair price for it. That, in conjunction with the deal for the 6D at $1400 pushed me into pulling the trigger on the swap out. Done and done.

Some things I'm struggling with, some not so much. Either way, I think the decision was the right one for me (for now).

Wondering if anyone else has given the same move some thought.

Canon Rumors · Dec 3, 2013

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<p><strong>From Canon USA

</strong>Myself and <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=8488" target="_blank">Bryan over at TDP</a> were told by Canon USA contacts that there was “no announcement of the EOS M2 by Canon USA planned.” I also spoke with contacts in Norway and the UK, and both also said the same thing. I spoke earlier today with a contact at Canon Canada, and he hadn’t heard about the M2 until I mentioned it.</p>
<p>So it looks like the EOS M2 is going to be an Asia only product for the foreseeable future.</p>
<p>I was so bummed about the news <a href="https://twitter.com/canonrumorsguy/status/407949554605375490/photo/1" target="_blank">I went and picked one of these up</a>……..</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Mick · Dec 3, 2013

Hi all. My neighbour passed away and when her son was clearing out the house they found an old camera and gave it to me. It's a German 1950"s Dacora 1. It's an old medium format film camera and it's got a roll of old unused Kodak 120 Codacolour film. Anyone know anything about these old film cameras and where ca n I get instructions how it works? It's a cool looking bit of kit with a vario 75 mm 6.3 lens. Always fancied medium format and doing some old mono film.

mackguyver · Dec 3, 2013

I'm not sure if anyone else has posted this, but looks like a LOT of Canon gear used this year! Incredible photos as always:

Reuters Best Photos of the Year 2013

J.R. · Dec 3, 2013

Hi Guys,

While I am presently saving up for a 300mm f/2.8L II (almost done), my mind is dwelling on its bigger cousins and I am not sure which to get first. I plan to get a 300 and a 500/600 next year in any case so it is basically an issue of which one to get first.

I can probably get the 500mm by early February next year if I do decide on it and the 300 can follow up later. However, a 600mm will be a step too far right now and my wait will probably be longer.

Of course the biggest differences between the two are the 100mm of FL and $$$. Can you guys please advise whether there is any other reason to buy the 500 over the 600?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheers ... J.R.

Scarpz13 · Dec 3, 2013

Hi Everyone one… going to be fortunate enough to have a little commission/Christmas bonus money left over after taking care of all the gifts for the wife & kiddies, family and friends….

Haven't added to my lens collection since about this time last year; and will have around $1000 or so to spend. Considering the lenses I already have, my first inclination was to pick up a 100L Macro, since none of my lenses are macro. Then I considered the 135L because I don't have a long range prime, and like everyone, I like fast glass.

But as my kids are getting older and into dance recitals and indoor sports, plays, etc… the 135L might be good, but I am considering on of the new Tamron 2.8 zooms. I used to own a 17-50 Tammy for my 60D and found it was great… and I know Dustin from TWI has posted some great reviews here on the Tamron lenses.

I know everyone is going to say the Canon is better, but I'm not in place to spend 2K+ on a lens, at least not without taking away from more important things- I feel guilty enough as it is not spending all my extra money on the kids!

I appreciate any thoughts- and I am a bit concerned that I am more likely to get a "bad copy" of a Tamron, but I think it may be the best value right now. In Toronto they are on sale everywhere… $1000 or so for the 24-70 and $1300ish for the 70-200

thanks!

abcde12345 · Dec 3, 2013

I bought a 6D based on the recommendation of everyone here, and hence I think I owe everyone a review based on it, which I believe people upgrading from a Rebel model would appreciate. I myself upgraded from a 550D, so I guess I would have a similar idea of what people are looking for. I'm not aiming for a scientific journal, but rather more of experience relating, so please don't flame me for stuff you don't agree on.

1) Ergonomics and size:
This is highly rated by everyone, so I would give my point of view. I find it a lot bigger. MUCH BIGGER. Heavier too. My fingers used to wrap around the grip completely, but now I'm quite sure I don't reach the end of it. However, I guess it depends on individuals.

2) Layout:
It's quite different from my 550D, it takes quite a bit of learning. For example, learning all over again how to take bracketed shots and long exposure shots is a pain. However, I like how aperture has a dedicated button. I would expect ISO to have one too. It requires you to press the middle button among five buttons (there is a little bump on it so you will be able to know without looking) without spinning the dial, so it's slightly troublesome. I will prefer something like Nikon's mechanism, with two dials.

3) Image Quality:
Now, this is the best part. Image quality is AWESOME. It's such a big upgrade from my 550D, I can't get back to using it anymore. The details captured are awesome, with a sharpness that I can never get from my 550D. I used the same lens for both camera, and the effect is just extraordinary, with just a change of camera. (Tamron 28-75mm F2.8) It has a soft feeling, where my 550D would have been quite harsh with background but with very sharp lines, hence the image is distinct with a certain dreamy feeling. Bokeh effect is even stronger and more pleasant. It's much better for both portrait and landscape shots compared to 550D. Cropping a photo is ABSOLUTELY fine too. It's awesome how much detail you can extract from a shot!

4) Shooting speed:
Upgrading from a 550D, this is another big plus. It's able to take more than 20 RAW images continuously without buffering, and I don't think adding another frame in one second would matter much to me. However, I'm not heavily into sports shots, so that might explain it.

5) Flash:
Now this is something I miss quite a bit. I would prefer to have even a built in flash at times, but I guess it pushed me to get an external flash. However, it means extra weight and space. Boohoo. =<

6) Wi-fi and GPS:
Not too big fan of this. I take photos for trips and own pleasure, so I don't really use such options frequently.

7) ISO:
I decided to separate this from image quality, as I think it deserves a corner of its own! ISO was such a pain in the bottom when I was using the 550D: nothing acceptable beyond 1600! However, this totally changed my game. ISO6400 is now a common thing, with slight noise within it that is considerably unnoticeable. With a little photoshop, nothing's impossible! It makes me much more comfortable of using aperture values around F8-11 at anytime, anyplace. It also means I am now becoming a manipulator of light! Awesome!

8) Autofocus:
I don't do much of fast-paced stuff, so I haven't really pushed it to its limits. However, I have always been using the center point as autofocus point, so that might explain it too. Anyway, I have developed the habit of locking onto the subject first using the middle point then move away, so auto-focus has not been much of an issue. However, at times when I accidentally changed the auto-focus points, it does seem to not work as well (Accidentally? You're bound to have that mistake when you upgrade from a Rebel!) However, the center point is an awesome focus point: it really focuses in the dark as advertised! Accurately!

Verdict?
I love being in the full-frame family. Image quality is awesome. Those who said that 6D is just a full-frame Rebel with no difference in image quality should try it. My friends described me being poisoned by it, and they too now have been poisoned by it! Trust me, constantly observing photos produced by my 550D and now looking at my 6D, I am a happy man. I do not know about D610's image quality nor have I tried it out, so it's a hard comparison for me, but as an upgrade, definitely not regretting it. It expands the arsenal of my shots and skills. I hereby declare that for me, equipment does make a difference.

Canon Rumors · Dec 3, 2013

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<strong>UPDATE</strong>
I’m starting to think we won’t be seeing the Canon EOS M2 released in the United States or Europe. No retailer has contacted us about preorders, there is no press release from Canon USA or Canon UK, and my contact at Canon Canada didn’t even know the camera was coming.</p>
<p>If you recall, the Canon EF-M 11-22 IS STM lens is not officially available in the United States, though you can buy it in Canada.</p>
<p><em>More to come…</em></p>
<p><strong>The Canon EOS M2

</strong><a href="http://www.canon.com.cn/products/camera/eos/lineup/m2/index.html" target="_blank">Canon China</a> and <a href="http://cweb.canon.jp/newsrelease/2013-12/pr-eos-m2.html" target="_blank">Canon Japan</a> have outed the new Canon EOS M2. A slightly smaller replacement for the Canon EOS M.</p>
<p>The biggest new features appear to be the Wifi capabilities, Servo mode when shooting video and a faster autofocus system with the new “Hybrid CMOS AF II”.</p>
<p>The camera is set for a mid December release in Japan, There has been no official word from Canon USA as of yet.</p>
<div id="attachment_15092" style="width: 585px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo01_b.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-15092" alt="Canon EOS M2 Front" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo01_b-575x394.jpg" width="575" height="394" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon EOS M2 Front</p></div>
<div id="attachment_15093" style="width: 585px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo02_b.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-15093" alt="Canon EOS M2 Back" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo02_b-575x394.jpg" width="575" height="394" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon EOS M2 Back</p></div>
<div id="attachment_15094" style="width: 585px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo03_b.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-15094" alt="Canon EOS M2 Top" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/photo03_b-575x394.jpg" width="575" height="394" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon EOS M2 Top</p></div>

Haydn1971 · Dec 3, 2013

Here it is....

http://cweb.canon.jp/newsrelease/2013-12/pr-eos-m2.html

entlassen · Dec 3, 2013

I've been using a RRS L-bracket to mount my camera on my tripod. If I buy a new camera, I have to buy a new bracket to fit it. I can sell my old camera on eBay, but I'm curious what do people usually do with their old brackets. Does anybody know?

When I search through eBay for RRS brackets for Canon 5D MK III and Nikon D800, I see nearly none being sold. When looking at entries for the camera bodies themselves, many sellers include batteries and other accessories as bonuses to attract buyers, but I never see brackets being included.

So my question is, what are people doing with their old brackets when they move to a new camera? I mean these things are not cheap ($140 new from RRS). I'm pretty sure RRS doesn't have a trade-in program (please correct me if I'm wrong), so where are people selling their old brackets?

Thanks!

privatebydesign · Dec 2, 2013

Not that I care about the posts, just wondered where they went. I was over 1,100 posts and a 1Dx yesterday, today I am at 800 posts and a 1D MkIV.

Anybody got any ideas?

mrkim · Dec 2, 2013

I am extremely happy with my new Canon 24-70 f2.8 ii that I got during the double-dip rebate period but I still have a couple of things I need to get before making my lens "complete". I couldn't find a solid answer to my question anywhere else online or anywhere on the CR forums so I'm hoping someone here with some experience here can help me.

Does the B+W 82 mm F-pro mount Polarizer cause additional vignetting on the Canon 24-70 f2.8 ii?

Here is the specific link to the filter I am looking at purchasing. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/10890-REG/B_W_66_016117_82mm_Kaeseman_Circular_Polarizing.htmlrizing.html

Do I have to purchase the XS-Pro mount version to avoid vignetting? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/752977-REG/B_W_1066401_82mm_XS_Pro_Digital_MC.html Also, If I use the F-Pro mount polarizer with an XS-Pro mount UV/Clear filter underneath, will I see vignetting? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/756192-REG/B_W_1066126_82mm_Ultraviolet_UV_MC.html

If I can get away with not spending almost an additional 50$ for the XS-Pro mount version compared to the F-pro mount, I would like to do so (I am aware of the Nano coating on the XS-Pro mount and this is a non-issue for me as I am a hobbyist and not a professional).

Thank you for your help!

edit: added an additional link

trof2 · Dec 2, 2013

Okay, so here's the thing... I have a Pixma Pro9000 II, which I have been using for about two years now, and for the same two years I have been repeatedly and increasingly frustrated with its ink usage until I have to hold myself back from throwing the POS out of the window (such as today).

I KNOW I put in brand new cartridges a month ago, and in this interval, I printed maybe 50 black and white pages of text at low quality, and maybe a handful of photos. Now this thing is telling me I'm out of cyan and magenta. WTF?! All other ink levels are more or less full.

Now look, I did not print a handful of cyan and magenta posters this month. We're talking 4x6 balanced exposures here. This sort of random ink depletion happens with other random colors too. In fact, I don't even need to print to see the ink levels drop before my eyes. All I have to do is turn the printer on and off, and the ink is visibly lower than seconds prior! Some drop, while others remain. Tomorrow, when I turn in on, it's probably going to tell me that I'm running low on red, although today it's full.

It costs me around $80 to fill this piece of sheisse up with ink each time, so I'm sure you understand my frustration.

Based on my observations, I have arrived at the following hypotheses:
1. Every time the printer does its stupid buzzing and clicking cleaning cycle, it actually sprays geysers of color like Ron Jeremy after eating a kilo of Skittles.
2. My printer heads may dry out periodically because of low humidity or something, and the printer decides to flush the contents of its cartridges to get anything through.
3. The ink evaporates.
4. Canon deliberately programmed this thing to engage in ink wasting cycles other than printing my photography or timed the cartridges to deplete after a certain period of time.

I'm curious if anyone in this community has ever experienced anything of the sort, and what you have done to remedy this.

Cory · Dec 2, 2013

The 70D's been out for a little while and I'm taking my avoidance of spontaneous purchasing to a new level. My lenses are the 35 2.0 IS, 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 II. I've got it almost all covered with those three with the added benefit of my real or perceived benefits of prime lenses.
My curfuffle is in upgrading the body from a T1i. I think I'm there and have reviewed all combinations of bodies, lenses, high-end compacts for all non-sports photography (I do lots of indoor volleyball in particular - world-class 11th grade daughter and all/delusional sports dad alert).
For sports and all other types of photography I REALLY appreciate image quality and am getting very good results with my T1i/LR4. My current focal lengths, also, work.
We did spend the weekend in Boston and the thought of a high-end compact did cross my mind, but then I came to my senses and thought that maybe just one GREAT do-it-all body is the best answer (with my minimalist approach in mind).
With all of the above is my answer probably the 70D? I care nothing of video, continuous shooting, articulating screen, wifi or GPS and might like to stick with the 1.6x effect. Would the SL1 be a mistake or maybe the right answer or is the closest to perfect really the 70D?

:-*

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