Hi everyone,

I had an engagement shoot today and near the end of it my 70-200 2.8 IS starting having AF trouble.
The closer to INFINITY I would try to focus the more It would struggle.
I couldn't even manual focus to that far.

Then When I got home later it was working fine.
But now it's having the issue again.

Camera repair shops are closed today, so I thought I'd see if anybody has any insight into this issue.
Thanks so much!


OH, and here are a couple from the shoot for those interested.
http://i.imgur.com/eOxV2.jpg

http://www.thephoblographer.com/2012/10/27/first-impressions-canon-6d-and-wi-fi-demo/

This came up last night. Interesting comment on the AF system comparng speed and accuracy to the 7D and MkIII.

Thought his comment on focus/recompose was interesting, re: if you only intend to use te center point, go with the 5d MkII.

Also liked the section about the app and WIFI capabilities.

There's not really a section here for technique advice in the CR forums, so I thought I would just post this here. I know there are plenty of CR members with the experience to help me deal with this situation.

I just signed a new client up for a senior portrait shoot. She's a great kid and has a bright future (I've known her since elementary school). The concern I have doing her portraits is her weight: She's quite heavy. What are some pointers to keep in mind so that I don't accentuate her size? Obviously, I'm not going to be able to turn her into a Heidy, but what can I do to make her look her best? I'm guessing that I need to keep in mind my lens selection (I go from 17-40, 50, and 70-200mm focal ranges) as well as camera angles. What kind of advice do you have for me? Thanks in advance for your helpful suggestions and comments.

Chipworks recently released an article analysing the CMOS Image Sensor (CIS) processes from a variety of manufacturers, including Nikon, Sony, and Canon. Historically, Canon has used a 0.5 micron (500nm) process for all of their FF sensors since the original 1Ds. In the Canon analysis, they noted that Canon has a 0.18 micron (180 nanometer) fabrication process (possibly what they used for the 120mp APS-H?) that they may begin using for future FF sensors:

[quote author=Chipworks]Canon does have a 0.18 µm generation CIS wafer fab process, featuring a specialized Cu back end of line (BEOL) including light pipes (shown below). It is possible to speculate that Canon may be preparing to refresh its FF CIS line to supply devices for a new FF camera system.[/quote]

A move from their 0.5um process to a 0.18um process for FF CIS manufacture would be a fairly significant move for Canon. The accompanying image figure also seems to indicate a double microlens layer...one above the CFA and one below...which could lead to higher Q.E. The article also mentions the use of "Light Pipes", a term I had not heard before. According to a few papers I've read, lightpipes in CMOS sensor design make use of high refractive index materials and a reflective wall in the optical stack the to improve transmission of light from the color filter/microlens to the photodiode, which exists at the end of a narrow tube where all the readout wiring exists (in a frontside-illuminated design). Seems like a lightpipe is an alternative to using a backside-illuminated design that aims to improve Q.E while avoiding some of the complexities and issues with BSI designs. Additionally, the use of copper interconnects should improve efficiency, allowing lower power usage, and hopefully leading to a lower level of electronic noise (the great bane of Canon these days.)

Seems Canon is most definitely not out of the CMOS Image Sensor design game yet. They seem to have some new tricks up their sleeves, and hopefully they will see the light of day in their next FF camera. Ah, competition is good!

I checked out the 6D with a 24-70 II, 70-200 II, and 200 f/2. It actually had a grip attached. Silent shutter is very nice and the camera/lens combination felt okay. They did have the shells of both the 5D3 and 6D and no comparison. The 5D3 and presumably 5D2 are tanks compared to the 6D. It seemed that the fps was noticably slower than my 5D2. I definitely think new 5D2's are better than the 6D unless you can't live without the GPS and wifi.

I got to check out the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x with a 1Dx in the CPS Lounge at Photoplus 2012. The lens is a little heavy but utterly ridiculous when paired with the 1Dx. The venue was limited but AF is fast and the ability to turn the 1.4x "on and off" by flipping a lever makes going from 200-400 f/4 to 280-560 f/5.6 is simply amazing especially when focus is maintained. The 1Dx kept its 12fps in every mode I tried. I can't speak for image quality but the lens' flexibility is unmatched.

I just noticed that when using a 100mm Macro f2.8L on my 7D, if I start the focusing either from zero or infinity, it seems that AF is impossible with my 7D (it tries to AF but to no avail). My workaround is to turn the focus ring to approximate the focus on my subject, I press the shutter button halfway and the AF locks on. I don't have to start from zero or infinity - I would just make the scene totally out of focus, the 7D cannot autofocus all the way.

With the 5D mk3, the lens focuses as it should (searching for the right focus and then locks on the subject) even if I start from zero or infinity.

I don't know if this is how the lens works for the type of body it is on (FF or APS-C). Has anyone here have a 7D and a 100mm macro f2.8L and experienced the same thing (or differently)? Is there an explanation for this phenomenon?

I am loving this lens on the 5D3. With the 7D I will just add another step when focusing - if this is normal.

Thanks!

I have just ordered the 1Dx. My main focus is wildlife, bird photography specifically, but I also do landscape and some macro. I currently have 1Dmiv and two 7Ds. Which of thoses would you keep as a back up to my new 1Dx. I am leaning towards the 1Div but am open to suggestions. Thanks for your thoughts

Hi,

I was trying out my new 5DM3 late this evening and I notice strange color rendering in the pics. The color seems to change in every progressive shot.

Even more strangely, the problems seems be alleviated by stopping the lens down.

These were clicked with the 50mm lens at f/1.4 in low-speed continuous mode.

I've tried other combos with the 17-40 and the 24-105 on the 5DM3 and the problem is pretty much the same. I've also tried the 50mm on the 7D (again under tungsten light) and even the 7D seems to have a problem, though less so.

Is this normal? Any thoughts would be welcome ... I want to be sure that the camera doesn't have a problem.

PS: I've not yet tried this in daylight and propose to do this tomorrow morning
PPS: I don't rule out user error

my 70-200 is 2 points, and my mark2 is 5...

I have AFMA my 5D3 and 24-70mm f/2.8 using FoCal v1.6. I’m getting variations on the results and wondering if is this normal? I've searched the internet and the FoCal site for comparison but none that I could find except from this forum.

Comments are welcome.

ok so as the title says sold my pocketwizards and 430ex 2 ordered 2 600 ex-rts and st-e3,do you guys think thats a wise move?the reason for me was better build flash although i could have stuck with pocketwizards i now have less to go wrong i dont have to put the flash on pocketwizrds too so a little quicker there,anyway any advice or thoughts are welcome

Hey guys,

Yes, another one of 'these' threads. Sorry about that :/ But my question is more specific then general, in a way..

I was thinking of selling off my 70-200mm f/2.8 II and 60D and buying a 'like new' 135L + 5D Mark II (New, will pay extra $100-$300 if I have to). I rarely use my 60D nowadays due to having a 5DIII, because like everyone else, I fell in love with the full frame sensor.

I do keep in mind that I love my 70-200 and it truly is an amazing lens, but being 5'5' with scrawny arms, it gets a bit heavy after a while, which is quite embarrassing for me that I'm considering selling this awesome lens for this fact, but it's simply the truth. I also don't like the attention it brings when shooting street. Being short and scrawny and seen with a white lens makes me an easy target as well :-\

I shoot mainly portraiture, and I don't like standing 200mm away from my subject when using this lens and find myself in the 100-150mm range. The reason I shoot 200mm is to get as much background blur as I can get. I also shoot headshots every now and then, so I'm wondering if the 135L makes a good headshot lens. Not worried much about IQ, since I've read many reviews stating that they were very similar. Also, the 70-200 is my least used lens because I prefer the look of my 50L and 35L, and have seen/heard the 135L has a more of a unique 'look' as well, so this is a plus.

I'm planning on shooting Weddings soon as well, and I know I'll probably miss the versatility + extra reach in this case. Since Weddings generally last the whole day and night, having the 70-200 on one camera along with another back up camera both attached around my neck at the same time is going to make the day a bit tougher due to my height and strength. I could always hit the gym, but... Haha : Going wider won't be as much as a problem, since I can have my 35L or 50L attached on one of the 5D's while having the 135L attached to the other 5D.

So under these specific circumstances, what do the you all recommend, keeping weddings in mind as well ?

5DIII / 5DII + 35L, 50L, 135L

or

5DIII / 60D + 35L, 50L, 70-200 f/2.8 II (Current set-up)

I am also very open to any other recommendations Let's just keep in mind that I'm not looking to spend (In other words, no "Just buy the 135L and the 5DII" please ) , rather trade off if I can! I'd also rent, but I think I'd need more than a couple days. Plus, having 2 FF bodies with three amazing lenses seems to be a lovely option as well.

Thanks so much everyone, I know this one may be tricky! ;D

http://www.photowarehouse.co.nz/tamron-sp-af-70-200-f2-8-di-vc-usd-canon?ref=pricespy

The Photo Warehouse (A somewhat big retailer in New Zealand) has listed the 70-200mm VC for 1978 NZD, roughly 1600 USD.

Maybe the price is an estimation of their own, if not, then we know now how much its gonna hurt our pockets... too much.

I shot this with a 5DmkII and a 70-200mm f/4 L, AF AI Servo mode. As you can tell, the image is focused just behind the runner, yet I had the focal point zeroed in on the runner's chest the entire time. Otherwise, the lens autofocuses really well. Is it me, or my gear? Should I plan on focusing just in front of the runner to compensate for AF lag?

Granted, my body/lens combo is suited more for landscapes than it is high school football. The easy answer here is to say "get a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS", but that ain't gonna happen any time soon.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. EXIF data is listed just below the image. See the largest file size for more detail if you need to.


Touchdown! by Rick.Scheibner, on Flickr

EXIF:
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/800)
Aperture f/4.0
Focal Length 200 mm
ISO Speed 500
Exposure Bias 0 EV

Scenario:
Set on "One Shot" you focus and recompose (perhaps the focus sensor isn't close enough to the edge of the frame...) and squeeze off a short burst on motor drive setting.

Will the camera re-focus on the new "target" of the chosen focus sensor after the first capture?

What if the focus setting is AI Focus or Servo? I think here it WILL refocus.

I called Canon this evening to ask, and the gentleman in Chesapeake, VA, said, "Hmmmmm...." and that he will get back to me.

...sometimes I shoot manual focus again. I get frustrated by constant moves back to the focus point, make another half-press... well, you get it: if the light, subject, and available depth-of-field allow manual focus -- and will not change -- I am starting to go back to the "old" way. Canon suggested I try using the AF-Focus button and that's interesting work-around, but I would try to assign the "M-Fn" button to that task, because it's near the shutter and it uses the index finger. Faster reaction than jamming my thumb up by my cheekbone to find that AF-Focus button among the three that are there.

jonathan7007

There something I have always found a little strange and that is, Nikon is owned by Mitsubishi but Nikon gets some of it's sensors from Sony who is a direct and major competitor to Mitsubishi! any body else find this a strange arrangement? ???

Hey guys! So I was going through my grandpa's camera bag the other day and I found a nifty little Rolleiflex SL35 with a few lenses. I want to put the lenses on my 5dmk3 just to play around with some old glass, but I read some mixed reviews on a few different kinds of adaptors. Does anyone have any experience with this or any advice? Thanks!

-Daniel

Would it be smart to sell my T4i and buy a used 5d ii? I have found some great deals on craigslist, which I would only have to invest a couple hundred more dollars. But I am scared to go back in time since the 5dii came out 4 years ago. Mark 5d iii is not even in my range. I just bought a 24-105mm L lens so it would be a good match. Any input? Thank you

I feel like this is a stupid question, but one of you (or all of you) must have a safer technique then me, and I'd like to start using it now that my clumsy fingers could cost me hundreds of dollars.

I always point the camera down when removing or adding a lens in hopes to minimize dust getting into the sensor, and add the rear element cap from the lens I just stuck on the camera to the one I just took off.

However, I have huge hands and have gotten into the bad habit of gripping a lens and something else (sometimes another lens!) in one hand while I put the other on the camera.

Do you guys put the lens cap back on always? Rear element cap? Always kneel down so if you drop the lens you're a foot from the ground instead of four?

I figured I'd ask now before you see me make a topic about shifted elements.

Hey gang,

I wasn't sure what forum to put this in, as it's more than just a body topic.

I just had my first go at nighttime city skyline photography.

Gear I used last night:
5D3
Tripod -- Carbon fiber, smaller travel one. Decently stiff but not heavy. Weighed down with my bag, perhaps 10 pounds or so
Arca head + wimberley plate
24-70 F/2.8L I
70-200 F/2.8L IS II
UV filter (B+W, as a lens protector only)
Didn't use a hood
Corded shutter release

Shot RAW for everything. As the camera was hunting a bit for focus, I switched to live view and did a manual focus at 10x view.

As for the glass, I do have primes, but they aren't long enough. The city was quite far away. The 70-200 got the lion's share of use last night.

No sunset or sky behind the shots, just a very dark brownish haze of city lighting behind the buildings in question.

My questions are myriad (as usual )...

1) See gear and method discussed above. Pointers / comments welcomed.

2) Does long exposure noise reduction apply to RAW files, or just JPEGs? If it applies to RAW, how long of an exposure warrants using it?

3) Live view locks up the mirror, right? I should be fine for managing vibrations with that method, right?

4) What is the appropriate exposure for a far off late night city skyline? I presume (unless I go the HDR route) that to get the building silhouettes in view on a dark sky, I will blow out the lighting. But how do I know what to look for in my histograms?

5) I know that darker scenes merit lower exposures, but am I throwing detail away in that process? Is there some mad tribal wisdom in not underexposing to get more detail, then adjusting exposure down in RAW processing afterwards?

6) How on earth do I manage windy conditions with long exposures? Last night, the wind was such that I was stuck with non-ideal settings (1/3 to 1/5 second exposures, ISO 1600, F/7.1, etc,) when I'd ideally like multi-second exposures at a lower ISO. Is there a tip or trick other than tripod positioning and using my body as a windshield? (Use smaller lenses? )

As always, your expert guidance is appreciated.

- A

I expect that using single point expansion is the the way to go but what AF Case is best for birds in flight ?
And are there any adjustments to the default case setinngs that help?

Hi Folks,

Whilst on a club outing night shoot last night I noticed that the 5D MkIII does not display how long the shutter has been open when in Bulb mode on the Live view screen, is there an option to enable this?
Actually I didnt check the top display but im sure you wouldnt want to be pressing the top display backlight button either during long exposures.

I was recently having a laugh with a fellow club mate a nikon user and his Nikon didnt do this, what do I do now! :-[

The Canon 550D shows it why wouldnt a €3,400 DSLR have this? users im sure dont want to be faffing about in the dark with stop watches, phones etc etc.


Cheers for any help,
Regards,
Nick.

Hi all,

I bought my 5D3 by the end of August still at a premium from a reatailer nearby. While I am using it at every possible high ISO including 51k and 102k for b/w I just like to ask the experts here, what can be expected in high ISO IQ and sensor tech by the time the overnext 5D (whatever it will be called)
hits the shelves?

Is it likely to make ISO 51 k look like today's ISO 12800 or 25600? this would be like one or two stops better high ISOs.

Cheers, Pedro

I really like the 5D3, here's a nightscape at ISO 10.000 (slight NR)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guatitamasluz/8091631310/#in/photostream