Here are more Canon EOS R6 Specifications [CR2]

[Ozarker]

This out of camera image would be a typical 1/16,000 exposure from me, because the light changed rapidly as the surfers came into shade from a hillside I tried auto exposure in Av mode. The camera chose 1/16,000 and obviously was thrown by the white water, this is full Caribbean sun at 10 in the morning.

Now if I was still shooting surfers in the Caribbean I'd want a camera that shoots 1/8,000 though back then I was limited to 200 iso and I could go at least two stops lower on that and I need at least one stop more exposure anyway.

Like I say, yes there are case uses for needing, not wanting, actually needing 1/8,000, I just wondered what ryebread's were.

I'll often go 1/8000 at ISO 50 and f/1.2 during outdoor portraits when using flash. Especially if I want the sun in the background. This is even the case near sundown. However, I could always throw on an ND filter or stop down a little to overcome a 1/6000 sec limit. It allows me to shoot in full sun and things don't look harsh. It's just what I like to do, but not something I have to do. I wouldn't not buy a camera because of 1/6000.

 

[privatebydesign]

I'll often go 1/8000 at ISO 50 and f/1.2 during outdoor portraits when using flash. Especially if I want the sun in the background. This is even the case near sundown. However, I could always throw on an ND filter or stop down a little to overcome a 1/6000 sec limit. It allows me to shoot in full sun and things don't look harsh. It's just what I like to do, but not something I have to do. I wouldn't not buy a camera because of 1/6000.

At 1/8000 and iso 50 how much flash power do you think you are getting? You are minimum of five stops down from full power but most HSS flashes are going to lose another couple of stops on top of that. A reflector would be much more effective and powerful and a darn sight cheaper.

 

[stevelee]

Would love GPS on these bodies, although not that hopeful.

Short of an included GPS, I really wish Canon (and other manufacturers) would allow a Bluetooth link with stand alone GPS receivers.

I usually leave GPS on with my 6D2, even though these days I’m mostly shooting within walking distance of my house. The metadata is not needed, but then close to home, battery life is not an issue.

When traveling, though, I shot S and G series cameras (currently a G5X II) that rely on Camera Connect to get GPS data from my phone. I have found that works just fine, but usually don’t bother to turn it on. On a long day of sightseeing I am concerned about battery life on both devices, perhaps needlessly. What I do when I’m somewhere I will want pinpoint later is just take a shot with my iPhone. Then later I can just check the metadata from that shot. It happens rarely enough that it is not a bother. I think of times on the Antrim coast of Ireland and on beaches in Hawaii (other than Waikiki). The time stamp helps me coordinate pictures from both camera and phone if there is some doubt.

 

[Ozarker]

At 1/8000 and iso 50 how much flash power do you think you are getting? You are minimum of five stops down from full power but most HSS flashes are going to lose another couple of stops on top of that. A reflector would be much more effective and powerful and a darn sight cheaper.

Since I don't use Canon Speedlites, but use Flashpoint gear, the flash power isn't reported in exif for me to tell you the exact power I used. That would depend upon the position of the sun, brightness of the sun, and time of day, and how much diffusion I use (single, double, or triple or none). Usually I am using a large parabolic with a focusing rod that I can use to move the flash further into or out of the parabolic to focus the light on the model. I should probably start logging the flash settings for the shots when I do it and eliminate the trial and error. Usually though, it will vary from 1/4-1/2 power (usually double diffused or single diffused) and the model is always very close to the modifier (3-5 ft). Sometimes it is a single 600ws monolight in a single modifier, sometimes I'm using a 600 ws in one modifier and then dual 200ws lights in another modifier. Unfortunately, I only get to practice 3-4 times a year and this year has been terrible for doing anything at all thanks to the pandemic. I also rarely do anything in the winter. I doubt I'll be shooting anyone other than my grandson this year.

What I will do is underexpose the ambient and then light the model. I do everything in manual, no TTL because it doesn't allow me the control I want.

Yes, I could use a reflector, but I most often have nobody to hold one for me and I find they don't allow me much control of the light. Since I already own the flash and the modifiers, cost isn't an issue. My three light were under $1,500 combined.

On three photos below, no ND filter is used. I have other photos where I use either a 3-stop or 6-stop ND and the shutter speeds are considerably slower.

At any rate, it works well enough for me. I am more than happy with what I get. On the rare occasion I get a paid shoot, everyone has been thrilled. A lot of people say f/1.2 is not practical for portraits because of the shallow depth of field. I don't believe that to be true at all. Distance to subject makes all the difference.

The last photo is also f/1.2, but with a 6-stop ND @ 1/60 sec. I didn't have a 3 stop ND for that lens at the time.

 

[Viggo]

Could you explain that, I find it hard to understand what you shoot where 1/8000 is a regular requirement.

I’m regularly over 1/4000s , shooting wide open both without strobes and especially with when you want to underexposed background. I could have used 1/16.000 also...

 

[Besisika]

The last photo is also f/1.2, but with a 6-stop ND @ 1/60 sec. I didn't have a 3 stop ND for that lens at the time.

Nicely done! Nice set.

 

[Twinix]

I'm a videographer and I am going to buy the R6 for video. I'm not interested in the photography side whatsoever. So for me, I want to shoot outside with my fastest apertures possible (like f1.4-4) and I very likely will have to use ND filters in those cases in order to keep right exposure.

Yes, and I did not say anything about photographing.

 

[Aussie shooter]

Since I don't use Canon Speedlites, but use Flashpoint gear, the flash power isn't reported in exif for me to tell you the exact power I used. That would depend upon the position of the sun, brightness of the sun, and time of day, and how much diffusion I use (single, double, or triple or none). Usually I am using a large parabolic with a focusing rod that I can use to move the flash further into or out of the parabolic to focus the light on the model. I should probably start logging the flash settings for the shots when I do it and eliminate the trial and error. Usually though, it will vary from 1/4-1/2 power (usually double diffused or single diffused) and the model is always very close to the modifier (3-5 ft). Sometimes it is a single 600ws monolight in a single modifier, sometimes I'm using a 600 ws in one modifier and then dual 200ws lights in another modifier. Unfortunately, I only get to practice 3-4 times a year and this year has been terrible for doing anything at all thanks to the pandemic. I also rarely do anything in the winter. I doubt I'll be shooting anyone other than my grandson this year.

What I will do is underexpose the ambient and then light the model. I do everything in manual, no TTL because it doesn't allow me the control I want.

Yes, I could use a reflector, but I most often have nobody to hold one for me and I find they don't allow me much control of the light. Since I already own the flash and the modifiers, cost isn't an issue. My three light were under $1,500 combined.

On three photos below, no ND filter is used. I have other photos where I use either a 3-stop or 6-stop ND and the shutter speeds are considerably slower.

At any rate, it works well enough for me. I am more than happy with what I get. On the rare occasion I get a paid shoot, everyone has been thrilled. A lot of people say f/1.2 is not practical for portraits because of the shallow depth of field. I don't believe that to be true at all. Distance to subject makes all the difference.

The last photo is also f/1.2, but with a 6-stop ND @ 1/60 sec. I didn't have a 3 stop ND for that lens at the time.

It is interesting learning about flash and modelling. As someone who would rather chew on broken glass than photograph humans it is so out of my field but i am always impressed with those who master it

 

[Fischer]

Except the smartphone solution works like shit. At least that's my experience so far. It works better with an external gps-device and synchronize geolocation in post-processing even though it is extra work in an already too time-consuming post-process and feels like going 6-8 years back in time to before I purchased the EOS 7DII and Powershot S100 :-/ ...
My new experience is from G5XII and EOS 90D (I'm going to sell the 90D again).

With Lightroom and a smartphone its easy peasy. Biggest risk is to forget to turn the app on. But you can also forget to turn the gps on the camera,...

 

[koenkooi]

With Lightroom and a smartphone its easy peasy. Biggest risk is to forget to turn the app on. But you can also forget to turn the gps on the camera,...

The issue I'm running into is that either the app or camera gets stuck and 'sticks' to an old position. So it will tag photos with a position from hours ago. I wish it would just fail to tag them, that would make clean up afterwards a lot easier.

I still have the best luck when attaching the GP-E2, I hope the R5 keep supporting that.

 

[Fischer]

The issue I'm running into is that either the app or camera gets stuck and 'sticks' to an old position. So it will tag photos with a position from hours ago. I wish it would just fail to tag them, that would make clean up afterwards a lot easier.

I still have the best luck when attaching the GP-E2, I hope the R5 keep supporting that.

I don't let the app connect to the camera. I sync the time on the camera to match the iphone and the app records my gps position every minute. Afterwards I import the timestamps to Lightroom. That works.

 

[koenkooi]

I don't let the app connect to the camera. I sync the time on the camera to match the iphone and the app records my gps position every minute. Afterwards I import the timestamps to Lightroom. That works.

That's what I do for the non-bluetooth Canon cameras as well, it works great. I wish Lightroom would allow you to use the "Automatically tag photos" option to retag photos where something went wrong.

 

[Ozarker]

It is interesting learning about flash and modelling. As someone who would rather chew on broken glass than photograph humans it is so out of my field but i am always impressed with those who master it

While I would like to master it, I am just a hack. It takes me a lot of trial and error. I might take 30-40 photos to get 5 or 6 I like. I don't get much opportunity these days. This year will be a wash.

I understand what you mean about photographing people sometimes. I am very intimidated by it as I am not the most social of persons. I really like people, I just have difficulty feeling comfortable with the interactions. I fell in love with portraits when living in the Mojave desert as a way to add some color and interest to my shots.

 

[Michael Clark]

Everyone's predicting a much higher price for this compared to the 6D Mk II, and I don't think that will be the case. The leaked R5 pricing shows everyone's thoughts on that being significantly more than the 5dMk4 didn't pan out, and I think people are off on this one too.

I think they will be aggressive. I suspect 2499 is the high end kit, with the 24-105mm f4. The 24-240 at 2199 and the 24-105 f4-71 at 1899. (body only at 1699, so the low end kit is half price for lens).

The reason I think they will keep it aggressive: This entices people to buy into a new ecosystem of lenses. The prices above are roughly 100 more than the 6d MKII's initial MSRP. The R5 pricing looks to be the same as the 5d MkIV. People are desperate for a sony like mirrorless solution that is combined with Canon color and Canon Lenses. I suspect that once the initial rush is over with, the street price will drop another 100-200 to be competitive, because Canon wants to get these cameras in as many hands as possible. The market that buys the r5 and r6 are the same people who drive most of their lens sales. Very few of these people already have RF lenses, so they will be buying new lenses at an increased clip compared to people who buy a new d5 body just to put old lenses on. The RP and R will drop in price (again) as well. The RP in particular will be in the same spot that the rebel series used to be. I expect the rp + 24-240 to be in a lot of big box stores this Christmas for 1199 or so. They can continue cranking out the sensor for that at a much higher profit, as the initial run has already paid for the development. People have seen Apple make a lot of money just keeping old production lines going for cheaper price points. Other companies are seeing the advantages of this now too.

U.S Dollars? Euros? British Pounds? Rubles? Pesos? Franks? Rands? Australian Dollars? Canadian Dollars?

 

[Michael Clark]

20MP is lame though.

Yeah, there are currently 84 pages of lame image after lame image from the 1D X Mark III at this thread.

 

[Michael Clark]

This list is just a pre-order list that I will fine tune based on reviews during the period of pre-order to ship. It is easier to get on the list up front rather than see a positive review and want to change your pre-order. I am hoping to have a two week trip to GTNP/YNP in late September/early October and would like to have the gear available for the trip. In wildlife photography you shoot in a wide variety of situations, environment and lighting that push the gear requirement. If possible, I will always choose a zoom combination over primes for the versatility IF I can get the IQ, low light performance & reach required for the shot. I shoot the 200-400 w/1.4 integrated TC (f5.6 @560mm) when using a tripod and the 100-400 II + 1.4x TC when I need something handheld. Because the 100-400 is a f5.6 a and f8 with the TC it is slow but workable for handheld shooting in dim conditions. Since the 100-500 is F7.1 + 1.4x tC will be f10, the 800mm becomes a reasonable option @ f11. I don't see any situations other than high noon on a bright sunny day when I would even consider using the 800mm + 1.4x. This is especially true when you consider the lack of separation you will have based on DOF @f16. My bet is that my choice will be the 100-500 + 1.4x TC over the 800mm, but I won't know until I see the reviews OR have it in my has to test. If I don't like it, I will return to the vendor within the return policy.

I wouldn't place any bets on a non-L prime being shaper than an L zoom until I saw the tests, UNLESS it is something like the EF 400mm f4 DO IS II @ $6k plus. You are probably correct on lighter weight based on the experience with the 400 DO. In addition, I might eliminate the TC but the 100-500 is a much more versatile / usable lens than the 800mm. If I had to choose only 1 lens of the 2, it would be the 100-500 + 1.4x TC unless I was a full time birder. There is also the issue of the 800mm@ f11 for birders shooting in forest conditions. I did't do all of the math, but I would only need to crop the R5 + 100-500mm image 18-20% to equal the FOV of the 800mm. With 40-45 mp, that would still leave a 30mp file.

Cropping a 500mm shot to equal an 800mm shot will reduce both the width and height by 38%. The resolution of such a crop from a 45MP sensor will be a around 18MP. You're taking 62% of 62% when talking about area.

 

[Michael Clark]

I'm glad I held off with my jump to mirrorless into Sony A7 system, or R ( EOS-M bodies don't count).
This is looking great, better than I expected from Canon. I hope it is real. The R6 looks like it will be best for me, although I may miss the high res photos that I'd get from the R5 once in a while, and build quality.
Build quality is the main concern from R6 specs. I hope it is weather sealed and tough

None of these cameras (R5, R6, 1D X Mark III, etc.) are "weather sealed". Canon is very careful to refer to certain parts of their construction as "weather sealing", but they never use the term "sealed".

Look at the official Canon description for the 1D X Mark III's weather and dust resistance:

"Designed for use in a variety of weather conditions, the EOS-1D X Mark III camera has sealing materials that are used in critical areas like the buttons, terminal covers, the battery compartment and the card slot cover. Precise design and construction help to minimize accidental insertion of dust and moisture in the rest of the camera body. The EOS-1D X Mark III camera proves to be a reliable partner in virtually any climate."

Notice that they say these materials and construction "... help to minimize accidental insertion of dust and moisture..." in "... virtually any climate." What they don't say is, "These materials and construction eliminate insertion of dust and moisture in any climate."

They NEVER use the word "proof" in conjunction with the words "dust" and "weather". I also do not recall them ever claiming any ILC or lens is "sealed", only that the are made with "weather sealing" materials at specific openings and may be "more dust and weather resistant" than other products.

As Uncle Roger often says:

"Weather resistant – A term that consumers falsely define as ‘weatherproof’ and camera companies accurately define as ‘the warranty doesn’t cover water damage’. "

 

[criscokkat]

U.S Dollars? Euros? British Pounds? Rubles? Pesos? Franks? Rands? Australian Dollars? Canadian Dollars?

American Dollars. Sorry for the US-centricity.

 

[cdcooker]

They both better have intervalometers along with a firmware upgrade that gives the EOS R this functionality.

Yes yes yes! I share exactly the same thoughts as you in here.

 

[Michael Clark]

Suddenly very interested in the R6. The big question for me is "identical AF" -- will the R6 have an identical processor to the R5? I could live with 20MP quite comfortably if I could get 1DXIII live view-esque AF in an ~$2,500 USD package.

Unfortunately, it seems to me that if the R6 has "identical AF" as the R5, that argues that the R5 will not have AF as good as the 1D X Mark III has in Live View.