Maybe you need to check again, I own a RF 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 (the F4 version also exists).I did a cursory look over what EF L lenses that do not have a direct RF L lens equivalent.
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Maybe you need to check again, I own a RF 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 (the F4 version also exists).I did a cursory look over what EF L lenses that do not have a direct RF L lens equivalent.
Link to the non-IS version of the lens you mentioned?.Maybe you need to check again, I own a RF 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8 (the F4 version also exists).
Canon won't make non-IS versions.Link to the non-IS version of the lens you mentioned?.
Having no non-IS f/2.8 & f/4 L zooms are indicators that Canon is prioritizing highest-end SKUs before the lowest end.
Ah ok sorry, did not care/notice about the IS, since you can turn it off non-IS is kind of included.Link to the non-IS version of the lens you mentioned?.
Canon won't make non-IS versions.
Everything is IS now, except for:
16mm f/2.8
50mm f/1.8
50mm f/1.2
85mm f/1.2
28-70mm f/2
Ah ok sorry, did not care/notice about the IS, since you can turn it off non-IS is kind of included.
Yes video, the photos are amazing from the R5.That’s DR in video, not stills, right?
I’m sure they do, but even a side by side test with the same shot, you can clearly see that the R5 isn’t as good with recovering highlights and maintaining shadow details. The 8K Raw is the only contender, when all modes for the R3 are right around 12 stops, and then the R5c is ranged from 12-13.5 stops depending upon what codec and noise reduction applied.Both photonstophotos and dxomark have only a whisker of difference between the R3 and R5, and they know how to measure DR.
It’s true for all hobbies.This is the first time that I have seen the word "enjoyment" used in terms of ROI.
Interesting take.
ROI to me is utilization. The more you use it the faster the ROI.It’s true for all hobbies.
If you play tennis or badminton, you might invest in a racket machine to string up your own rackets.
If you shoot for sport, you might invest in a speed loader so you don’t have to load your magazines one round at a time.
If you like race cars, you might invest in a computer program to play with the tune yourself.
If you like bird photography, you might invest in a 15k telephoto to get shots at lower ISO’s.
Again, it’s all relative to the hobbyist and what he is willing to spend into his hobby.
Some might say it’s not with the 15k and a $1000 800 f11 will do just fine. Some will not settle for that return on their investment.
And like I said, as a hobbyist, what matters to you does not matter to someone else.ROI to me is utilization. The more you use it the faster the ROI.
Like buying a new $1k AC that promises 68% power savings. After 6 months of ~12hr/day daily use I got my ROI in terms of power savings. A decade later I avoided the extra 68% charges.
That's why I bring up utilization of buying any new gear.
I got my ROI from my birding gear because I used it 3x week every week of the year for more than 6 years.
To me the $1k RF 800/11 is worth it if the person carrying has mobility issues. It is less than 1.3kg vs a Z 800mm VR that weigh's 2x that at 6.5x the price.
Now, if you buy a luxury car and make it a garage queen that only gets driven during key special ocassions that occurs 1x/month in the good side of town then for me it's a bad ROI.
You haven't given a link to what you are citing or the time spot where it is discussed so I can't comment without spending time googling and watching a whole youtube. DR is a number that is measured, and Photonstophotos is the gold standard for measuring DR and shadow recovery. Here are their results: https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Canon EOS R3,Canon EOS R5 https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR_Shadow.htm#Canon EOS R3,Canon EOS R5I’m sure they do, but even a side by side test with the same shot, you can clearly see that the R5 isn’t as good with recovering highlights and maintaining shadow details. The 8K Raw is the only contender, when all modes for the R3 are right around 12 stops, and then the R5c is ranged from 12-13.5 stops depending upon what codec and noise reduction applied.
All you have to do is look at a side by side clip and you will see a huge difference. Mostly in the sky or challenging scenes involving heavy shadow and highlight differences. Like indoors and maintaining the info from a window.


The AC before that was bought 2 decades prior. Time to upgrade. So why not look for a model that has the least indoor operating noise and give you energy savings?And like I said, as a hobbyist, what matters to you does not matter to someone else.
I don’t care how much I spend on AC, I want it cold and my ROI is how comfortable my home is. In your opinion, you state you would rather have more energy savings.
Believe it or not but all these big companies have a performance / use case group that crunches the numbers and user/customer surveys that helps points to where new bodies and lenses should address a workflow requirement for the next decade or so.That’s your opinion.
The cost of a lens is also subjective. I wouldn’t look at the size and weight as that is not important to me. The quality of what I can achieve is hence why I would be more inclined to invest in a 400 if I shot birds in flight in order to get a faster shutter and lower iso.
I think you're talking about such a niche use case that it only applies to 1 out of 100 million persons.Doesn’t mean everyone else can blow 10+k in a lens because they like it.
Also if you want to get nitty gritty in ROI, that same car you just stored in a garage can be a very valuable asset.
Purchasing a rare collectable can appreciate in value because you have not driven it and got a great deal on purchasing it.
The value of any item is predicated to its demand.Let’s apply these principals to the telephoto prime lens. If I got a used RF 400 or 600 prime, how much do you think I will lose on my ROI if I were to sell it in the future? Even a new one, how much would I lose on it? 10% if it’s value?
30% of $1k is $300? What's 10% of a RF 400/2.8 IS? $1,200? I'd use the percentage-wise to the wife. It easily distracts them if they aren't numbers oriented. ;-)Let’s take the 800 f11 that was mentioned. If you buy one new and sell in a few years later where the market is saturated with used 800’s, how much of its value did you lose in order to sell it? 30%
RF 800mm f/5.6 is roughly the price of the EF 800mm predecessor at introduction.How many used RF 400’s and 600’s are there? Hence why ROI is subjective to each persons perspective and need.
I would rather have the equity in a lens I know I can sell back for what I paid for it (if I can find a used one).
I can use it, enjoy it, and if I sell it, still retain most (if not all) my initial investment.
I´ve been checking this website on a regular basis. I work with a 13 inch Macbook (2018) and it runs fine, but recently it starts to show its age. The next computer will be an iMac because 13inch is just too small for editing images imo. Plus, I stopped working on a whilst watching TV or something similar because I do focus better on my work and I actually remember things about the movies I watchedBest information tends to be from macrumors
https://www.macrumors.com/roundup/imac/
Congratulations! Consider paid lessons on how to use it if we or YouTube cannot help you.Hi, thanks for your help before. I have decided to not wait for the second body EOS R5 Mark II but rather to buy now a used body for 2600 USD.
If this relates to the non-IS 70-200mm, I agree.Canon won't make non-IS versions.
I guess the rumored RF 35mm F1.2 won't have IS as well since the 50mm & 85mm don't have it. Also, I could imagine a 70-135mm F2 won´t come with IS.Everything is IS now, except for:
16mm f/2.8
50mm f/1.8
50mm f/1.2
85mm f/1.2
28-70mm f/2
YMMV of course... for me a 16" MBP M1 was the perfect upgrade from a 2013 MBP. The old one worked perfectly except the speed suffered badly due to the R5's file sizes and especially video. I skipped all the interim models with dodgy keyboard/ lack of ports and touch bar. It will be interesting to see how long the M1 version will last me but I expect it to be a long time.I´ve been checking this website on a regular basis. I work with a 13 inch Macbook (2018) and it runs fine, but recently it starts to show its age. The next computer will be an iMac because 13inch is just too small for editing images imo. Plus, I stopped working on a whilst watching TV or something similar because I do focus better on my work and I actually remember things about the movies I watchedTherefore I always work in my office now and not in the living room. So my need for a laptop has greatly diminished and I'm eagerly waiting for an updated iMac to arrive.
Should be good until 2031. ;-)YMMV of course... for me a 16" MBP M1 was the perfect upgrade from a 2013 MBP. The old one worked perfectly except the speed suffered badly due to the R5's file sizes and especially video. I skipped all the interim models with dodgy keyboard/ lack of ports and touch bar. It will be interesting to see how long the M1 version will last me but I expect it to be a long time.
I need a laptop when I travel and multitasking in front of the TV is ideal for me.
The larger 16" screen is great for editing and trackpad has acceptable accuracy. The 14" screen on my work laptop is poor in comparison!
Thanks. I’ve been watching 9to5 Mac, but I’ll add macrumors to my list.Best information tends to be from macrumors
https://www.macrumors.com/roundup/imac/