F1 Photography Advice

As a long time F1 fan and occasional race antendee, I agree with a lot of the points that have been made. I think the most important one is to enjoy the race first and worry about photographing it second, especially if it is your first race. Soak up the atmosphere and marvel at the astonishing, visceral sound the engines make. My wife still talks about the first time she heard an F1 engine fire up, which happened when we were a couple blocks away from the Indianapolis circuit - normally she has little interest in cars, but that really got her attention!

The pit straight location will be good for shots of the start, finish (especially if Vettel ignores the officials and does a few donuts!), and pit stops. Malaysia is a modern track and is very wide, with large runoff areas. Getting close to the action will probably be difficult, so a lens with reach is likely to be a good idea. That will be especially true of the pit stops, where you want to zoom in on the action. F1 pit stops are crazy fast, often around 2.5 seconds, and it is just amazing to watch 15 or more crew swarm around the car in a carefully choreographed dance of pinpoint precision. You'll have to be quick to catch it though.

After my couple of F1 races I realized that the best place to watch is in the braking zone at the end of one of the really long straights. F1 cars can slow from 200 to 50 mph in just a few yards, and if you get it right you can get great shots of the front brake discs glowing red inside the wheels as they approach the corner (the discs are carbon, and it takes a lot of heat to do that...). This is also where most of the passing moves are completed, as a few others mentioned, so you can get shots of the cars fighting for the racing line. Collisions tend to be the rule rather than the exception on the first lap.

If your race day seats are already set, you may still be able to get some good photos from the braking zone. I'm not sure if it is the same at all the tracks, but sometimes there are no assigned seats on practice and qualifying days which means you can scoop a prime position if you get there early. Use the practice sessions to scope out different locations and find one that works best for you, then occupy it during qualifying if you can. The qualifying laps are the most extreme since the drivers have only one or two chances to get the perfect lap, and they are pushing everything to the limit. Although they won't be aggressively passing other cars, you can definitely tell the difference between a race lap and a qualifying lap. And with the freedom to change seats, you should be able to find a place with a decent, unobstructed view. Malaysia doesn't have the huge crowds and rabid fans that you see at Monza or Silverstone, which should make things a bit easier.

So from what you said about your trip, I think you'll get the best shots of the cars during practice and qualifying, and on race day you can focus on just grabbing a few photos of the start, finish and pit stops and spend most of the time enjoying the race. Do scope out the podium location well in advance - it is not always obvious where to go at the end of the race, and if you want good pics of the ceremonies you might need to leave your seat before the race is over. I've always preferred to see the finish and watch the awards on the big screens, but your preference may be different.

I can't say too much about equipment because I still had my old EOS 10S and a crappy 100-300 zoom when I last attended an F1 race. My best F1 shots came from my first race, which was in Phoenix, and I was at the start/finish. Back then the stand actually overhung the track by a few feet, and during qualifying I could lean over the edge and shoot the cars going past a few yards below. I was constantly getting hit by pieces of hot rubber coming off the tires! The coolest pics were shot with a 28mm manually focused to a spot on the track, and panning like mad whenever a car came past. Most of the time I didn't get the timing right, but when I did I got a really neat effect with different blurring on various parts of the car due to the differential speeds. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) they are now very safety concious, so this sort of thing is no longer possible. :(

Personally I think the panning technique with a slowish shutter speed works best when the cars are in motion, as otherwise it tends to look like they were parked on the track. But unless you can get relatively close when the crowds are smaller prior to race day, I'm not sure it will be very effective. With the exception of the above Phoenix experience, my successul panning shots have all come from lesser race series like Japan F4 or were taken at private club track days, at small tracks where it is easier to get close. There is no substitute for having your gear with you when you volunteer as a corner worker, but sadly the FIA doesn't think I am qualified to marshall an F1 race. :) ::)
 
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IMG_0001 said:
Hi, first post in here but I felt compelled to answer because I've had similar experience researching tips and lenses for F1 photography.

I have been lucky enough to go to Montreal F1 GP three times in the past and gave a shot at photographing from the stands at the end of the start/finish straight. The first two years, I used a rebel XSI and non-L 70-300 IS USM and had real difficulty focusing on the cars and to be honest, reach was also a bit short.

Last June, I had upgraded to a 60D and rented a 100-400 L. That was worlds apart from my previous experience and I finally had a few good(ish) pictures. The problem was not the equipment anymore.

From my experience, the lens speed is not that important since I found it nice to try slow shutter speeds and panning to provide a sense of speed in my images.

However, I found that hitting focus was relatively hard because of the car's speed (and of all those high contrast publicities all over the place).

I've not been to Malaysia, but the circuit seems to require at least as much reach as for Montreal so my feeling is that 200mm is too short for shooting from the stands.

However, to illustrate the fact that I am only an amateur, here are a few random pics from this year race.

And one final suggestion, don't do as I did the first time and don't forget to enjoy the race (lucky you)...

Nice shot!!!
 
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Lloyd said:
I went to the Austin F1 race last year and was sitting in a grandstand at the end of a long straight. I took a lot of pictures which can be found at http://www.pbase.com/lebthree/f1_austin . Most of these are heavily cropped and I pretty much loaded all but the God awful up on pbase so it should give you a good idea of what worked and what didn’t. As I recall, I was using my 70-200 2.8 for most of these. It also appears that I took most of them at f/4. I also used my 1.4 extender on a few. Therefore, your lens selection may work out great.

Depending on your seat, you may find it difficult to take pictures from the grandstand during the race as people will often be standing up at the critical moments. This is especially true at the start. Also, unless you are very high in the stands, you are likely to be shooting through fencing. My better pictures were taken on the practice and qualifying days as there were fewer people and you could move around to various locations. I don’t know what mobility, if any, you will have at the Malaysian GP on practice and qualifying days. As you noted, the main straight may allow you to get pit action during the race which might necessitate a longer lens. However, negotiating it in a large crowd may be a problem.

I would also suggest that you make sure that the venue allows you to bring your camera gear in as many do not allow “professional” camera equipment into the facility. They have such a limitation in Austin, but they did not appear to enforce it too strictly. However, I would hate to show up with a 400/2.8 or 500mm+ without knowing for certain that I could get such a beast in the gate. Each facility may be different and what they say on their web site may not measure up to reality at the gate.

The most important thing to bring is ear protection. The sound is painfully loud and you will suffer hearing damage if you expose yourself to this for any extended period of time. In Austin, the sound is magnified in the main straight as it is a canyon between large grandstands on each side.

Walk around a bit before the race with a good walk around lens. Some of the people attending the race are a spectacle in themselves. The crowds, fences and limitations on movement on race day make photographing the race action very problematic. If you have a press-pass with access to the areas with holes in the fences or scaffolding to shoot from, that is a different matter. For everyone else, my thoughts on race day are to bring what you have, take a few shots and enjoy the experience.

Excellent advice, and excellent pictures! Great job of posting so many on pbase. I hope to see the Austin race sometime, and also the "Jersey" race if it happens.
 
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TomTom said:
Hi folks.

I'll be going to the Malaysian F1 Grand Prix next year and i'm looking for some advice on what kit would be best to take. I have grandstand tickets on the pit straight for all three days and also might get pit lane access probably on the practice day through a friend who works for one of the teams.

I currently have an Eos 50D, Canon 50mm 1.8, Canon 28-135, and Canon 55-250. I have been considering selling the 55-250 and getting a 70-200 F4. Would this be a good idea or would the extra reach of the 55-250 be more useful.

Thanks

Excellent Thread !!!

I've not been to one of these yet, but I would heavily suggest renting a 1DX or even better, a 1D4, along with a 70-300L. The suggestions about a 70-200 f/2.8 are quite unnecessary, especially when using a 1.4x TC. The 100-400 would be far better than that (400 is way more reach than 280mm). But I feel that overall, if you can get in a good position for shooting...a 70-300L should more than suffice (especially on the 1D4, or any other crop format camera...the 1D4 gives you a pro body and 10fps). If you can only get a far distance away, then consider renting a big lens. If you really are resistant to renting the nicer gear, then I agree with all who have suggested 200mm is not enough.

And maybe most important of all (besides bringing good earplugs), would be...PREPARE TO TAKE QUITE A BIT OF VIDEO FOOTAGE along with the stills. This is one time where still pictures can only do so much justice to a sport! Either bring a dedicated video camera, or else if you wind up with a DSLR that does video, practice with it a lot before-hand. Best of all would be if your companion can do either video or stills...where you can switch out with him/her, so that you both get to enjoy taking both video and stills at the same time.

One thing that is both a plus and a minus (you may know this already): 2014 sees all new smaller V6 engines and chassis, with state of the art turbo charging that is all combined with electric motor assist/batteries (I don't like this part)...but it's possible the cars might be a bit quieter than the current V8's. Obviously they won't be as quiet as normal "turbo" cars can be.

I have recorded every race broadcast for the last 4 years, and can never get enough! All other racing other than Le Mans series (and occasionally WRC), pales in comparison for me...especially "indycar"...what a watered down version of racing!
 
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CarlTN said:
I would heavily suggest renting a 1DX or even better, a 1D4, along with a 70-300L...

It pays to check the conditions of entry before going down that path as quite often there are restrictions on the allowable equipment. At Melbourne the strict rules are that there is no professional equipment allowed and that includes bodies, L type lenses (especially 300mm and over), monopods/tripods etc. While they are still written in the terms and conditions (and I've known of a few people being turned away over the years), they have relaxed a bit on the gates but not completely.
 
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TomTom said:
Thanks for the responses guys, and there's some really nice photos here. Think I will sell on the 55-250 and start saving for the 70-200. I would think it should be sharp enough to crop in if necessary. I'll do my best to get there as early as possible and have a scout around.

One last thing, would the 28-135 (there's a chance I might be able to borrow a 24-105L) be wide enough to use as a walk around or would I be better looking at something like the 15-85?

Thanks again.

Good, but I should say that cropping is only part of the solution. If you are too far away, the focusing will be much harder because of the small size of the subject. With my 70-300mm, I found that focus often was on the contrasty advertising found in the background rather than on the drivers head. The autofocus will always go for the highest contrast object so the more there is under the AF point, the harder it gets to ensure the AF goes for what you want.

I should add that the pictures I posted were cropped by at least 20% despite having a 400mm lens. Mind that they were cropped because I only used the center AF point which kind of screws up the composition but is much more effective. Therefore, the cropping was more to help with the composition than because of the lack of reach.

As for the 28-135mm as a walkaround lens, I found that I ended up trying to capture the ambiance with the telephoto since there was a bit of a crowd and changing lens was not so easy due to the proximity with the rest of the audience. Nevertheless, I found it nice to have my Sigma 8-16mm for really wide shots. If the circuit and its premises are anything like in Montreal, it is quite vast and you need some wide lens to really capture the extent.

Here are a few "atmosphere" pics from this year's race. For the shot at 8mm, I was just under the stands in order to be able to capture all of this and on the higher res image, you can (barely) see the cars preparing on the grid. The other two are from the stand where I was seated (12).
 

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TomTom said:
...
One last thing, would the 28-135 (there's a chance I might be able to borrow a 24-105L) be wide enough to use as a walk around or would I be better looking at something like the 15-85?
...

Yes, thats me again!

If I may add to my previous post, I've had a look at your post hiistory and saw that you have been longing for a wider lens for a while don't you? I also saw that you were not afraid of third party lenses. As a result, I will say that I find my Tamron 17-50 F2.8 (Non-VC) to be very good for the price. So if like me you prefer a wider aperture to more zoom range, this lens is a good bet, but it concedes a lot in the long end.

I've only seen good comments on Canon's 15-85 (apart from the price which seems steep to me) so I doubt you'd find yourself flawed if you bought it.
 
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IMG_0001 said:
TomTom said:
...
One last thing, would the 28-135 (there's a chance I might be able to borrow a 24-105L) be wide enough to use as a walk around or would I be better looking at something like the 15-85?
...

Yes, thats me again!

If I may add to my previous post, I've had a look at your post hiistory and saw that you have been longing for a wider lens for a while don't you? I also saw that you were not afraid of third party lenses. As a result, I will say that I find my Tamron 17-50 F2.8 (Non-VC) to be very good for the price. So if like me you prefer a wider aperture to more zoom range, this lens is a good bet, but it concedes a lot in the long end.

I've only seen good comments on Canon's 15-85 (apart from the price which seems steep to me) so I doubt you'd find yourself flawed if you bought it.
Ho, the 15-85 is a great lens. It's more or less an L-quality lens, lacking the weather sealing and the red ring.
 
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TomTom said:
Thanks for the responses guys, and there's some really nice photos here. Think I will sell on the 55-250 and start saving for the 70-200. I would think it should be sharp enough to crop in if necessary. I'll do my best to get there as early as possible and have a scout around.

One last thing, would the 28-135 (there's a chance I might be able to borrow a 24-105L) be wide enough to use as a walk around or would I be better looking at something like the 15-85?

Thanks again.

I’m a massive F1 fan, I work as a volunteer on a JCB in Abu Dhabi on turn 7 (the JCB with the Scotland flag every year) and I’m also quite new to photography, I have the 150-500 Sigma and I use a 550D, I was lucky enough to go to Monaco this year and use my Sigma, I’ve added a couple of images, they’re good for me and I’m happy with them, I’ll bet that a 70-200mm f2.8 or f4 + 2x convertor will offer superb clarity no matter what variety you buy (f4/f2.8), as everyone loves these particular L series lenses, but you’ll still need to crop your images, all my images are cropped to some extent, I hope this helps mate. Above all enjoy the race, I’m sitting here waiting for Austin to begin and it’s 10.30pm on a school night!!! 8)
 

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I went to the practice and qualifying sessions of this weekend’s F1 race in Austin at the Circuit of the Americas (COTA). Representative photos can be found at http://www.pbase.com/lebthree/2013_austin_f1

The COTA web site indicated they had no restrictions on the size of detachable lenses. So on Friday’s practice day I decided to bring my old manual focus Canon FD 800mm with Ed Mika’s adapter on my 5Diii. I thought that trying to capture these high-speed cars with an 800mm on a monopod with no autofocus or image stabilization would be an exercise in futility, but I got some great shots. Keeper rate was far south of 50%, but I am no pro and don’t have to get the shot. It also helps that I live in Austin, so this is not a once in a lifetime opportunity that I don’t want to blow.

I also brought a friend’s 400mm 5.6 which I have used on the COTA track before for the motorcycle GP and it would be a great option. I didn’t use it too much as I wanted to experiment with the 800mm. The 400mm is obviously a more portable option than the 2 foot long and heavy 800mm. However, next year I probably will just bring the 800 to practice day as it was just a lot of fun trying to manually focus and get the shot. Pre-focusing on a spot worked the most reliably, but it was fun to try to also attempt to focus on the cars in random areas.

On Saturday, qualifying day, I decided to recover from my hernia from carrying around the 800 on Friday, and just brought my 5Diii and a 24-105. I was sitting on the 23rd row at the straight following turn 15 so my line of sight to the cars was just above the top of the fence. I tried my hand at 125/sec exposure pans to get motion blur and initially got a very low keeper rate. I got better when I tried to focus in on one spot on the car and keep it in my center focus spot as the car flew by. Needless to say, the photos on my Pbase account using the 24-105 are heavily cropped.

The bottom line for me was to have good quality lenses, even if they may lack such things as autofocus and image stabilization, be prepared to take a lot of photos to up your chances of keepers and, if you are going to have to do a lot of cropping, the more resolution your camera has the better.

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Roo said:
Great shots Lloyd. Last year's shots were good but these are a step above by nicely capturing the cars in motion.

It's odd but I had more keepers manually focusing with the 800mm than I did trying to pan with the 24-105mm. I think it is a matter of more experience manually focusing with the 800mm than panning.

I see so many posts from very experienced photographers that have such a high skill level they become bored as they have very few mountains left to climb. For me, I am at the foothills, with many new skills to aquire. It is kind of like seeing your favorite movie for the first time. So far, I am enjoying the journey. Thanks for noticing the progression.
 
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Lloyd said:
Roo said:
Great shots Lloyd. Last year's shots were good but these are a step above by nicely capturing the cars in motion.

It's odd but I had more keepers manually focusing with the 800mm than I did trying to pan with the 24-105mm. I think it is a matter of more experience manually focusing with the 800mm than panning.

I see so many posts from very experienced photographers that have such a high skill level they become bored as they have very few mountains left to climb. For me, I am at the foothills, with many new skills to aquire. It is kind of like seeing your favorite movie for the first time. So far, I am enjoying the journey. Thanks for noticing the progression.

Those are nice shots Lloyd! Your panned shots provide a nice sense of speed while the one with the ferraris has a feeeling of rivalry in it that is interesting.

As for your AF issues, I think that, as I said in my previous post, if you are using too short a focal length the AF sensors are going to catch bigger objects with high contrast instead of the details of your subject. For example, helmet details are going to be too small for the AF sensor to resolve and it might just catch the curb in the background instead.

I enjoy this thread so much I am just going to have to add a few more of my pics...
 

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TomTom said:
Thanks for the responses guys, and there's some really nice photos here. Think I will sell on the 55-250 and start saving for the 70-200. I would think it should be sharp enough to crop in if necessary. I'll do my best to get there as early as possible and have a scout around.

One last thing, would the 28-135 (there's a chance I might be able to borrow a 24-105L) be wide enough to use as a walk around or would I be better looking at something like the 15-85?

Thanks again.
The 15-85 is a great lens, but for this venue the 24-105 or 28-135 will be wide enough. Sepang is huge, between the grandstands there is a very big space and you are not likely to need anything wider.
 
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IMG_0001 said:
As for your AF issues, I think that, as I said in my previous post, if you are using too short a focal length the AF sensors are going to catch bigger objects with high contrast instead of the details of your subject. For example, helmet details are going to be too small for the AF sensor to resolve and it might just catch the curb in the background instead.

I wish I could blame my panning issues on the autofocus. I am afraid it was just poor panning technique. I think I got a little better at it as the day went on.

You have posted some great shots and your second photo with the reflection of the car in the puddle is fantastic.
 
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Times have changed in F1. I used to do a lot of motorsport work, including the RAC Rally as a press photographer (when it was a real rally!), Le Mans 24 Hours and loads of club events. This was all pre digital and using various film SLR's, Canon, Nikon and Pentax.

In the mid 80's, I managed to blag a competitor's ticket (from a support race) which gave me pit access right up until the start. Great opportunity to get all the cars in the pit lane etc and a memorable one of Prost and friends watching Concorde flying over. Track access too and I didn't really need anything more than 300mm then.

Can you imagine how difficult it is nowadays? Got Bernie's mobile no? Still not enough! I really wish I had kept going but i got harder and harder to comply with all the demands of F1 bureaucracy.
 
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i went to Silverstone last year with my 5Dmk3 and 70-200 2.8 and was pretty close to the track so much so that I didnt have to always use the 2x convertor, however if you have that setup becareful on panning at 2.8 as i had a few shots that had the front in focus and the rear of the car OOF but overall for my first attempt I was happy with my results

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjAvEqS9

my best advice would be to go and stand near a road and take shots of passing cars to practise panning and what type of shots you want thehn you can perfect the technique rather than using the precious time at the F1 track for testing

hope that helps and enjoy your day!
 
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Lloyd said:
...
I wish I could blame my panning issues on the autofocus. I am afraid it was just poor panning technique. I think I got a little better at it as the day went on.

You have posted some great shots and your second photo with the reflection of the car in the puddle is fantastic.

It is true that panning is not that easy but you are right that you pick up the pace along a day of shooting. Nevertheless, I find it hard to strike a good balance between a shutter speed low enough to blur the background and one high enough to still end up with some keepers. I shot a lot around 1/250s but that is too fast and only provides the strict minimum in terms of bg blur. I definitely am not one of those bored by not having anything left to learn...

Thanks for the good comments about my pics.
 
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Lloyd said:
I went to the practice and qualifying sessions of this weekend’s F1 race in Austin at the Circuit of the Americas (COTA). Representative photos can be found at http://www.pbase.com/lebthree/2013_austin_f1

The COTA web site indicated they had no restrictions on the size of detachable lenses. So on Friday’s practice day I decided to bring my old manual focus Canon FD 800mm with Ed Mika’s adapter on my 5Diii. I thought that trying to capture these high-speed cars with an 800mm on a monopod with no autofocus or image stabilization would be an exercise in futility, but I got some great shots. Keeper rate was far south of 50%, but I am no pro and don’t have to get the shot. It also helps that I live in Austin, so this is not a once in a lifetime opportunity that I don’t want to blow.

I also brought a friend’s 400mm 5.6 which I have used on the COTA track before for the motorcycle GP and it would be a great option. I didn’t use it too much as I wanted to experiment with the 800mm. The 400mm is obviously a more portable option than the 2 foot long and heavy 800mm. However, next year I probably will just bring the 800 to practice day as it was just a lot of fun trying to manually focus and get the shot. Pre-focusing on a spot worked the most reliably, but it was fun to try to also attempt to focus on the cars in random areas.

On Saturday, qualifying day, I decided to recover from my hernia from carrying around the 800 on Friday, and just brought my 5Diii and a 24-105. I was sitting on the 23rd row at the straight following turn 15 so my line of sight to the cars was just above the top of the fence. I tried my hand at 125/sec exposure pans to get motion blur and initially got a very low keeper rate. I got better when I tried to focus in on one spot on the car and keep it in my center focus spot as the car flew by. Needless to say, the photos on my Pbase account using the 24-105 are heavily cropped.

The bottom line for me was to have good quality lenses, even if they may lack such things as autofocus and image stabilization, be prepared to take a lot of photos to up your chances of keepers and, if you are going to have to do a lot of cropping, the more resolution your camera has the better.
Congratulations for the photos. From time to time, it is good to try something different and "unattainable" with limited equipment. Modern lenses focusing Super fast can leave accommodated photographers shoot many good pictures, and stop doing that photo "impossible" with old equipment. This reminds us that the most important is the photographer.
 
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