Battery compatible with Canon EOS R6

This just came out this morning:


The upshot: the new LP-E6NH batteries don't give you much more capacity after initial wear (about 8 recharges). Benefit is all about communication with camera firmware in the new R5/R6.

There will be some third party batteries (older ones from 5+ years ago) added for comparison over next few weeks. -tig
Thanks for that, most useful.
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Patent: Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro

An intelligent lens-design isn't about "the more lenses, the better".
One of the very best macro lenses, the Leica M Macro Elmar 90mm f4, has only 4(!) lenses, and doesn't miss a single one.
I often use it with macro rings on my EOS R, and it beats,without discussion,the EF 100 L IS.
Of course, it's an f4 lens, without AF.
And what should I say about the Apo Macro Elmarit 2,8/100mm, 8 lenses, so sharp at any setting and aperture that it almost hurts?
You mean, the more elements. And you’re wrong. They couldn’t do it in years past for a number of reasons. Calculation, even with lens design programs, was a real bear. Each extra element adds significantly to the problem. Then there was the mechanical integrity of the lens. Back when, Cooke was known for superb designs that never performed that well, because they couldn’t make them properly. The technology wasn’t up to it. Glasses are being developed every day, new coatings, etc. All of this allows designers to take more advantage of additional elements than they could use decades ago.

‘So yes, designers do look at more elements as being beneficial. It’s pretty obvious, because new lenses are all about more elements when performance, and speed, are the main thrust.

you mention a 90 f4, which I’ve used. It’s pretty good, but bested by a number of faster lenses these days. Now, try to make that Ken’s a more realistic f 2.8, as most macro’s are. Or an f 2, as we see more of them come out. How many elements do you think it would need?

and back in the days of film, what was considered as sharp would be though of today as being just ok.
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Strange fringe on subject in front of Christmas lights (not lens or body specific)

I believe there is nothing wrong with your setup, if that is what you are asking.

As objects get close enough to the lens and obstruct a bokeh ball, their shape becomes part of the bokeh ball. It is what allows you to use a cardboard cutout to shape your bokeh balls like stars or hearts for example. I think the combination of small lights (good point source approximations) and the single color of LEDs makes this more noticeable. I have a shot with a similar effect done with my 600D and Sigma 35 mm 1.4 Art.

Your doll seems to 'cast a shadow' onto your bokeh balls, giving it this weird effect.
The spider seems to have the same effect. Thanks. I think this shows the effect is not strange after all, but common in this situation.

My lens was close to MFD, but not quite. The tree was about seven or eight feet behind the subject. (We were going to take the tree down yesterday morning, but when I saw the images from the night before I wanted to hold off and try again with different lenses and bodies last night.)

I was definitely relieved to see the same results on different bodies and lenses!

I wonder if other light sources behave differently. Incandescent? Hmmm. It is not pretty!

KIt., I don't see the grey contour you are asking about. I just had the doll propped up on a stool, more or less centered in front of the tree. Maybe an ornament or something...

PS The kid already beats me at chess. I'm sure she'll be a better photographer real quick too!
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Switching between Electronic shutter and mechanical

That has also been a complaint of mine. The 900 page "advanced" manual is mostly screenshots of the various menus. While most of the things are self-explanatory, more help, and background information on topics like shutter selections, autofocus, and flash would be helpful.

end up using Youtube a lot because of this ;-) and forums like this..
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Tamron 100-400 on R bodies?

back and arm becoming more issues as I age :( ... the focus engine is a huge improvement.. not perfect as some credit, but huge improvement. However there are so many options with autofocus it gets its own menu now... learning to maximize it really takes some getting used to and knowing/remembering when to change it takes a bit of getting used to... like changing between people and animals .. now programmed in custom, but also the continuous autofocus can be outright annoying at times yet horribly useful... it keeps trying to focus on something when you point down or away from your subject or just have the camera on and walking so you're ready.. but damn useful when you are ready. another is learning to set a start area for the focus and then compose and have it track vs it trying to figure out what you're trying to focus on.. how well it flips/locks on etc.. still scratching my head on many options

Yeah getting older isn't fun... lol. You'll get used to it over time and the custom buttons make it so much easier. For me it took a bit of getting used to mainly due to the location of Sony buttons being in my muscle memory but I'm already more used to the R6 now. The tracking is definitely amazing though and I really love how it just sticks to the subject. I feel like that plus the 20fps would make shooting wild life even more fun.
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R6 Intervalometer Questions

Thanks for the detailed reply!!!

Battery life is a huge issue, and definitely a concern. The housing will definitely not allow for any extra battery grip, or any way to change batteries underwater. Fortunately, a "long" shoot is 45 minutes. It looks like the R5 and R6 use the same basic form factor of battery, so probably similar time. Is there any way I could ask you to run a time check on it? See how long it'll do 1 second intervals before the battery dies?

Can you get enough review time on a 1s interval to even be useful?

I'm probably not patient enough to do a full test for you but some additional considerations..

power draw and how long it lasts likely depends on what it's doing for you at the time.. live view or electronic view finder, constant autofocus, reviews, jpg vs raw etc etc. I've only done small dives but I imagine it's useless to start it when you first get in and only really valuable once you can see the ground which would mean only short time periods, but I'm not entirely sure of your case scenario.

if you're looking at figure out if the lights are in the right place etc, keep in mind it uses live view.. you're seeing it live all the time and its pretty accurate for me (though there is more than one mode I think), maybe it renders the review question moot.

intervaluemeter I Think turns off once its done and you manually have to turn it on again via the menus.. not sure if there is a way to automate this.

it works by how long between each shot (1second to hours between). .. and how many shots (1-98 and then 99= infinity until you turn the camera off I believe)

you should consider renting an R6 or R5... given how specific your cases are, it's likely worth your while.. larger cities often have shops that rent equipment.

also can't see anywhere to program a button to enable / disable intervaluemeter.. seems to be menu only?
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MY dog

I miss our two big Poodles, Max and Spud. This was taken with my 3.3 MP Nikon 990 in 2001. How time flies but the memory lingers. They have long since passed away. I had a laser engraved rubber stamp made of this photo so it was upsized to match their requirements.


View attachment 194941
How time flies eh Mt Spokane !
Here is a shot of my mother's Standard Poodle (as we call the large, full size ones in England) called Toby. I took this in March 1978 on Kodachrome 64 with a Kiev 4 rangefinder camera that my father had bought for me as a Xmas present. I'd have been 17 years old at the time and you can see my shadow in the picture on the left crouching down behind the camera and tripod. I even wrote the exposure settings on the slide mount; 1/125th and f/5.6 . I can remember Toby being so obliging in posing for the picture !

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Do you have an RRS L-bracket for the R5 or R6 pre-ordered?

I’m glad you found peace! How do you like the screen movement?
I've spent some time paying more attention to the screen movement. For me, whether on a tripod or kneeling at an odd angle, while there are a few minor restrictions to perfect positioning, the screen movement is fine in about 90% of cases. (And I like how the tips at the gap for the screen are beveled better than on the Kirk.)

But that is for stills. For video, I don't have much experience, though I did use the flippy screen to take some video of how lens IS components shift about. I placed the camera on a tripod, pointing down, and I had to come around to the front of the setup to hold and move the subject. I was able to move the screen so it was very easy to watch as the video recorded.

Sorry, but that L-plate you showed is way more complicated than I want full-time on my camera for stills, and I'd rather have a little restriction of the flip screen than any restriction around the lens barrel. (But I do like the option to protect the ports!)

Truly, the ergonomics of the R5/R6 L-plate make it a great choice for those who want to mount it and forget it. "Elegant" is the single word I go with.
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Patent: Lots of super telephoto lenses mentioned

Any chance we'll ever see the EF 500mm f/4L IS III and/or the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS III come to fruition? Would be nice for Canon to finish the "III" line of the EF big whites (and all of them actually being the same shade of white) before abandoning the EF line. I would think that these two lenses would have been at least in some stage of development before they decided to scrap EF and go all in on RF and mirrorless, no?
More likely to see those two long white fast primes out by 2023 on the RF mount before the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
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Need your advice on moving on from 5D3 to R5

Ok, so to conclude, I have placed my order. My budget is a bit tight so I have ordered the R5 Body, The RF to EF adapter, a spare battery and a Sandisk 512GB Cfextreme card. I will use the 24-105 from the 5D3 for now until I buy the 24-105 for the R5. I hope to get everything by Friday.

Wish me luck

Now I have a lot of new stuff to read up/study :)
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Deal of the Day: Venus 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D Ultra-Wide Angle for EF and RF $899 (Reg $999)

Adorama has one of the few third-party lenses for the RF mount as their Deal of the Day. The Venus 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D Ultra-Wide Angle is $899 (Reg $999) today only. You can also get the lens in the EF mount.
Key Features

Lens Mount: Canon EOS RF / Canon EOS EF
Fixed Focal Length: Focal Length: 12mm
Lens Type: Wide Angle Lens
Image Stabilization: Image Stabilization: No
Special Features: Aspherical

Venus 12mm f/2.8 Zero-D Ultra-Wide Angle for EF and RF $899 (Reg $999)

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Has anyone purchased a R5 in India?

Hi,

Looking to get input from those of you who have purchased the Canon R5 in India. Would appreciate if you could give me the following information:
  1. City where you bought it
  2. Dealer name
  3. Price
  4. Did you get a lens? If so which one and what was the price?
  5. What cards did you get and at what price?
In addition I intend to get the EF to RF adapter and a spare battery or two. I think I will purchase soon so wanted to get this input.

Thanks in advance.

R5 at Night in the Snow

A couple of images taken at night from my front deck while a snow storm was tapering off. The lighting was from motion triggered LED Floodlights mounted to my front porch. I just snapped them out of curiosity as to what the night time capability of my camera was. It had my EF 100mm macro on it.

I pulled the blacks down a lot to try and hide the noise in the background. Lightroom tries to lighten it up but it was dark out. That's a tall tree so I could only get parts of it with a 100mm lens even over 100 ft away. The bird feeders were only 10 ft away. I was really pleased with the low light capability of the camera, its the best I've had.


We had about a foot of fresh snow yesterday.


EMWL0165.jpgEMWL0166.jpg

R5+ RF 70-200 Shooting speed and AF accuracy in servo mode ( quick-moving targets)

Hi!
I am interested in whether the AF accuracy really depends on the shooting speed and in the point of using H+ mode for quick moving subjects ( cars, skiers) etc.
From my experience I get only about 50-70% properly sharp shots when shooting fast-moving objects that approach me like cars with H+. It looks as if the AF motor is not speedy enough to refocus between the shots and around each 2'nd or 3'd shot is to a various extent back focused. It is especially pronounced when using mechanical shutter. (in case of mechanical can it be because of the blackout, which steals the focusing time from the AF? ) The keeper rate does not really depend on the focus mode or scenario.

If I use H mode I have a bigger % of keepers. So for me its is actually not much sense in H+ mode for quick ,moving subjects, as I have pretty much the same number of keepers, just more junk with H+ that eats memory.

Does anyone have the same situation? What is your keeper rate?

SD cards in R5

New SD Card tests data for the R5, R6 and RP...
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