YuengLinger said:

I can't compare to Nikon, Panasonic, or Sony, but I can say that the R5 produces images that not only look great RAW, but are very easy to work with--even at higher ISO's. (Shadow and highlight recovery, noise clean-up, sharpening, colors.)

What surprises me above all, and should have weighed huge in any fair assessment, is the ability to use 100% crops from the R5. I've had the 5DIII and 5DIV--they do not come close. Can the brands with higher scores do this too? If so, great for them.

Here is an example of approx. 100% cropped, ISO 640, and, imo, it is perfectly usable online. They print fine for 4x6 and 5x7. I've done so. What an amazing "cheat" this can be when we don't frame optimally!

View attachment 194798

The R5 has surpassed my wildest expectations, and I've only just begun to explore its potential.

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I'll second your praise of the R5 regarding shadow recovery, etc., even with cRaw which is now my only way to use it as I need the smaller size files. It's really great!

My previous camera was an EM1_II, and while it had a lot of benefits it had a poor shadow recovery (IMHO) which was only saved (for me) by the use of PL3 and their "prime" noise reduction. Now I get to have an already stellar R5 file and PL4 "deep prime" noise reduction for vastly better performance. It's a great day to be a photographer!

JPAZ said:

Basically, a Gimbel, when properly adjusted, has the camera and lens balanced. One can move it with the slightest touch and not need to work against the drag of a ball head or not need to tighten / loosen a ball head. It allows for smooth movement of the camera and lens. I often prefer it for wildlife or other shots where movement is frequent. That and a rmote to keep you from shaking the camera by pushing the shutter can often really help (along with fast shutter speeds) for capturing sharp images. I think a geared head would just be too complicated for me and could remove the smoothness of motion when working at this magnification. Another thing to look into is the "hyperfocal distance" to eliminate much of the focus issues.

Anyway, that is just my opinion and how I'd approach the shot. I am sure others have alternative approaches, equally as valid and YMMV.

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Many thanks for the reply and advice regarding gimbel head @JPAZ I will surely try this out. I am considering buying a telescope but I like the super tele as it is versatile! I would like to explore bird photography one day too.

Many thanks and regards,
Suman

Yes I often switch between video and photo these days. I used to only do video on particular occasions as my mum and dad each have their own business so I did commercials for them on my 6D, then 6D II, then I sold all my EF lenses apart from the 24mm 1.4 II and heavily invested in RF glass and bought the R but otherwise just photos in private life mostly for fun and for my wife’s Instagram channel but since the beginning of this year I am a first time dad and having the little one makes me switch constantly between video and photo.

I really like the R6 but I still also have my R and I gotta be honest, there are certain things I do find better on the R.

I am sending the two Lexar cards back and I will get myself a 64gb Sandisk uhs-II for certain occasions like mentioned here and otherwise use my older Sandisk Extreme Pro cards I also use with the R.

AlanF said:

DxO scores are in agreement with your iso observations. The R6 is their highest rated Canon camera for iso performance and the 7DII is miserably low down, 3394 vs 1082 in the "sports" column (substantially due to the crop sensor being 1/4 of the size). DxO scores for individual aspects of sensor performance are usually fairly rational, it's the overall score where they somehow weight those components that rankles because that is subjective rather than scientific.

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Yes. So it seems. I should find out this afternoon when i get to do a few hours of wildlife shooting. Will post the results in a few days

Rzrsharp said:

All physical buttons can be removed.
A touch screen can do everything.

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Perhaps, but there are many cases where you don't want to.

Think about action photography, i.e., sports and wildlife. Things are happening quickly, and having a physical button or a click-wheel allows the photographer to find and change settings using only their fingers without having to take their attention off the action in front of them.

A touchscreen interface might allow the same settings to be changed, but it requires the photographer to focus their attention on the screen in order to find the right "button" (since there's no "feel" to it) and then slide and swipe to change settings. Great shots could be missed during that time, and that's food on the table for a working professional.

Also, all touchscreen capabilities go out the window if you're wearing gloves. Even the so-called touchscreen gloves reduce your touch accuracy.

YuengLinger said:

The R5/R6 bodies add some complexity to taking photos.

[...]

Any other examples?

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I don't know if it is really a new thing. It is just a result of Canon's stubbornness. For situations where some confusion may arise, they rather take a feature out.

Examples from my 80D: Not being able to use tracking and face AF and the electronic level at the same time, for example. Or not being able to use auto ISO with flash.

When you think about these, they sort of make sense. You need exposure simulation to view a histogram, because the histogram is based around the LiveView image (or the JPEG you could take at the current moment, if you will). If you turn it off, the camera may either have to display the false histogram based on the false exposure shown on the screen, or it would have to compute a second image with the right exposure, swallowing resources and causing a confusing mismatch between the image on screen and the histogram.

And something like RAW histogram isn't even an option.

Face AF and electronic level both draw a lot of stuff one the screen, so Canon probably felt it becomes to cluttered when they could both be turned on.

The flash thing has been explained to me in the past, but I still don't understand how it improves the camera to lock it down.

YuengLinger said:

Did you find your answer yet? I saw a thread on DPR about this, checked mine, and sure enough, Exposure Simulation must be Enabled, not off or only during exposure. Only the top option allows the histogram on mine to be visible in the EVF.

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YuengLinger said:

Did you find your answer yet? I saw a thread on DPR about this, checked mine, and sure enough, Exposure Simulation must be Enabled, not off or only during exposure. Only the top option allows the histogram on mine to be visible in the EVF.

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Thank you very much. No I had not found an answer.

dwarven said:

As far as I know ES doesn't let you shoot single shot. I think it's 20 fps mode only. Could be wrong since I rarely use ES.

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I tried in One Shot and it only takes one. Like you, I don't see much reason to use it--and especially just one shot at a time.

But a delimiter would be nice. If the actual rate can't be slowed, a menu option that allowed a set number for a burst would be better than what we have now.

I've still got my old Smith-Victor's.

Sounds like a communication problem.
The lens is an ef mount and because it's not a Canon lens, the comms protocol between the Sigma lens and the R6 is relatively slow, and as the camera won't take a shot until it gets focus confirmation from the lens - the camera won't allow high speed shutter to work.
The lens is fine for one-shot mode, but it won't focus as fast as an RF lens.

YuengLinger said:

For better or worse, it is the same on the R, R5, and R6.

I have not noticed any difference in focusing quickness or accuracy away from the center, but this is an interesting question.

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I guess that focus sensivity depends on the light fall-off, especially in case where focus assist is used and covers only the central area well. It is easy to check. Just try taking pics in a barely lit room in the evening.

Bdbtoys said:

Although, I think you can only do that if you have x-number of posts. Speaking of which, I should ditch this automated RP title.

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i changed mine on the first day i signed on, when i had 5 posts

thats why i though that was the actual thing he owned

I think that this is a magnificent lens for anyone that is still into Olympus bodies and has $7.5K to drop on the lens (which means probably not too many people). It's a shame that all that optical quality has to end up on old technology M43 sensors and EM1... bodies.

Another interesting thing they claim (yet again): They do the 2x multiply to show their equivalent FF focal distance (ok, that's fair and accurate). They also do the 2x multiply to show their equivalent FF max. magnification, although they word it deceptively (It looks like their actual magnification is shown in parenthesis, and they use 2x to get the equivalent FF magnification, which is also ok IMHO). *BUT* they still show *only the M43 f#* which they apply to both the M43 focal distance and the FF equivalent distance (they're still doing their marketing bullshit to falsely hype their lens as having an equivalent f# half the value it really is, instead of also showing the 2x on the equivalent FF f#'s which would be fair and accurate).

Keep in mind that Canon could also claim an additional set of values (focal distance, f#, max magnification) if a 1.6x or so crop was applied to their FF sensors and so they could come up with additional bigger claims for focal distance and max magnification that way. But who needs to fight a marketing war with a company that's already out of business?

If I was still into Olympus (which I'm not as all my stuff is now in my brother's hands) and had $7.5K to spend then I would actually get this lens and be quite happy. It will take stunning telephoto photos as well as stunning close up shots of flowers, etc. But their sensor will never be as good as the R5 or future R5s, and their people/animal eye AF will never be as good, but most of their people will be OK with that.

All in all, it's a shame that they didn't come out with the EM1_III and this lens two years ago as it might have saved them enough to still be in business.

I just called 1 (866) 443-8002 for the Loyalty Program today. The R5 and R6 are not eligible for the discount since they are so new.
For other cameras, like the EOS-R, the discount is 20% for new cameras and 10% for refurbished cameras.

dlee13 said:

For me I much prefer the RF control ring over the aperture rings.

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So do I, never did any video until now. But I have been wondering about cine lenses because of their manual aperture ring.
Sill hoping a video user will answer!

VegasCameraGuy said:

I have a power brick that has a PD USB-C outlet and will charge any USB-C or USB-A devices up to a laptop. I have a battery charger that uses USB and will charge the batteries on my R5. The power brick will also charge my R5 but if that doesn't work for you, the batteries could be recharged outside the camera. I'm guessing as I've never used a 1DX3. On my R5 the USB-C charger has to have Power Delivery (PD) to work as regular USB-C charges don't.

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I've got many USB C PD power supplies and batteries - none work. I felt comfortable trying since the USB C port standard and PD both have safety precautions built in to prevent incompatible devices from frying each other. Unfortunately no combination worked. I'm stuck with the bulky charger that only accepts AC 110v for now.

Hi all, bought the R5 for stills but loving its video capabilities.
In my video cameras (Sony FS5, EX1 etc) I’m accustomed to using the histogram as an exposure aid.
On the R5 I can bring the histogram up on the rear screen, but as soon as I start to record video, it disappears. Anyone know if it’s possible to keep the histogram displaying while recording? And if so, please can you post the exact setting?
Thanks very much
Mark

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I can deflect lower the front left corner of the plastic piece that covers the radio and possibly EVF screen. it does not affect photographs. The joint of the cover is not perfect, a fingernail can feel the difference, mine is well within any reasonable fit specification.

If you feel yours is beyond what you expect, contact canon and arrange for a repair. Its a fact that molded parts can shrink or warp due to various manufacturing factors. Trying to push parts thru the machine faster than the process specifies is a common cause of inaccuracies'. I doubt that a very tiny error would be rejected by inspectors.

There is no real way for us to compare what we see, for me, its a tiny deflection with a lot of pressure but it does move. There appears to be no way that that joint on both the left and right corners would seal against moisture intrusion unless there is something inside I don't see. Canon relies on fit to resist moisture intrusion and it does look like a definite weak spot in that regard. Its not a 1 series camera, and I'd use a cover for any significant wet weather photography. Warranties don't cover water intrusion.

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Pretty much same thing here... just checked.

rocknrory said:

It would be better if you didn't have to change the AF mode to MF in the menu, instead it could stay in AF mode until you turn the focus dial, then it would allow MF w/ the option to return to using AF quickly and seamlessly.

Edit: I just learned it's possible to allow this when half pressing the shutter button in the menu. Wish it would allow it without the shutter press, but it's still a big improvement!

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Another option is to use the AF ON button (if you haven't already remapped it). I've found this feels a bit more natural. Hopefully canon sends out a quick firmware update soon.

This is something I’m curious about too! Dustin Abbott’s review of it was quite positive and the fact you can use rear filters is huge for me!

Joules said:

What makes you believe the 1DX III native ISO is 400?

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From Canon EOS-1D X Mark III Video White Paper:

The EOS-1D X Mark III incorporates 10-bit Canon Log encoding as the primary OETF, which
empowers the camera to closely match imaging characteristics of the Cinema EOS cameras. This OETF
is used for all of the P / Tv / Av / M exposure control modes as well as in the ISO Auto setting mode.
The OETF supports an 800% dynamic range, based upon Base ISO 400.

SteveC said:

Because if you don't Pay: Boo! you get hit with huge interest.

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LOL..yeah, that might do it.

I did have to call and bitch at them...they hadn't sent me a statement, but I got a text from them saying I had late payment which is not like me, I pay in full every month.

Anyway, got on the phone with them told them I'd not gotten a statement...the removed the late fees and interest and I sent the full payment in.

Yeah, it's a good deal IF...you pay in full every month. If you don't that. interest will eat up any savings you have quick.

C

Maximilian said:

DXO = Don't eXpect Objectivity

Let's move on ...

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Their overall scores are meaningless because the weighting of individual measurements is subjective, as are overall scores on all other sites. But, the individual components of those scores are often of interest, and you can draw your own uses from them. At high iso, the land in which I live, the R5 is a winner, even in their judgement as they admit the overall score was lowered by the low iso results. They do very much praise the R5.

privatebydesign said:

No I don't think AE lock is going to help much because that is going to lock in your slow shutter speed ambient exposure. But don't forget in this 'dual exposure' ETTL II situation exposure compensation, EC, will only affect the ambient exposure so you can raise the auto shutter speed by three stops by dialing in -3 on your EC. Flash exposure compensation, FEC, will only affect the subject exposure (although that relies on their not being too much flash spill), so if your subject is very bright, or dark, or has reflective clothing on etc you can compensate for that alone with FEC.

For me this ability to control the flash and the ambient exposures independently was a key selling feature of the Canon flash system over the earlier Nikon flash system that worked a very different way. Though I do wish Canon flashes had a simple dumb light trigger like most Nikon flashes do and did.

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Thank you @privatebydesign

Regards
Suman

Jethro said:

Hmm - a little disappointing but I guess not entirely unexpected. So: good idea not particularly well executed?

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It should beat a smartphone for subjects more than a couple meters away - And that's really all that can be expected from such a tiny device. Don't think the execution is the problem here - It's physics.