Posts

degos · Mar 16, 2019

GMCPhotographics said:
You really don't under stand what a patent is do you....patents always come first. Production never comes before a patent.

Of course production can precede patent grant, hence 'patent pending'.

Bundu · Mar 16, 2019

I hope it will fix sharpness issue with 2x extender. But then again I think it is the 2x extender that do not play well with the 400 iii.

Durf · Mar 15, 2019

CanonFanBoy said:
The Tamron 15-30 I used to have was great. Really great. I've thought about that 45mm Tamron, but I just don't know when I'd use it. The 85 you have would be good for my use.

I have the Tamron 45mm and 85mm 1.8's and they are outstanding lenses. Two of the best (and sharpest) lenses I own.
I never thought I'd use the 45mm all that much either but it is probably my most used lens out of all my lenses; it lives on my 6D2 almost all of the time. I'm constantly shooting with it, honestly thought I'd use the 85mm more when I got them. (I bought them at the same time). The 45mm is an amazingly versatile lens and even can substitute for a macro type of lens too because it can do real close up focusing (I think 13"). The bokeh is really beautiful with it too.
My Tamron 85mm seldom gets used, and I basically only use it for doing portraits (which is a rare thing for me). When I need the 85 I am darn glad I have a good one though!
Out of the insane amount of money I have invested in lenses it's ridiculous that my most used and favorite (and about the sharpest) is my cheapest lens of the bunch, the Tamron 45mm, a 400.00 dollar lens!

FramerMCB · Mar 15, 2019

Don Haines said:
On my Oly, to update the lens firmware you mount the lens on the camera, connect the camera to a computer, and run the Olympus viewer/editor software. If it detects that an update is available, it downloads it onto the computer and then installs it onto the lens. No docks. No shipping out.

They have had this ability for at least 15 years and I don’t understand why nobody else does it.......

In the situation with updating your Olympus lenses though, it's all Oly equipment, including the camera correct? I wonder if you could do that with say a Panasonic M4/3 lens mounted on your Oly camera? I'm guessing that you could not do that. Or conversely if your Oly lens was mounted on a Panasonic G9 or G85, etc, you could not update it that way either... But who knows?

I know that I wouldn't be keen on having a Tamron or Sigma lens attached to my Canon camera body and try and run a software update to the lens this way - thru the camera body. If it would even work, which my money would be on it not being possible...

stevelee · Mar 15, 2019

Don Haines said:
I have run into that problem when shooting handheld panoramas in portrait mode, but 99.99 percent of the time they are fine for landscape type shooting.

BIF is something else! when trying to track small birds I love my 7D2 because the AF points cover most of the sensor (more of it than any FF camera). If my skills were better (or if the birds were further away and larger) I could get by with less area, but I am still learning and developing so I need all the help I can get

If I am being fairly serious about a panorama, I will set the focus and exposure the same for all shots, with the possible exception where there is a lot of difference in the light on one side from the other or there is interesting foreground detail on just one side. But most often I am traveling when I shoot panoramas, so I let the G7X II use auto everything and expect that Photoshop will work it all out. The depth of field of the little lens covers a lot of the scene anyway. I’m mainly just trying to make up for the 24mm equivalent on the wide end. At home I’ll use the 16-35mm lens on my 6D2 instead.

I’ve never been interested in shooting BIF. I can enjoy some of the pictures, but generally don’t like the frozen effect that folks go for. I’d rather they look more like “in flight.”

HarryFilm · Mar 14, 2019

CanonGrunt said:
Canon just released this 8k test footage... https://www.cinema5d.com/canon-8k-cinema-camera-first-official-footage/

--

Do be aware that Youtube TENDS to clip the highlights and shadows and make the footage LOOK like Soap Opera Video. When you download the video and do a bit of grading on it, it seems I can recover some additional detail in it which indicates that the DEFAULT from-camera images will be quite outstanding.

If I was shooting high-end Cinema on this, I would of course be shooting 24 fps at 1/48th of a second shutter speed to ensure I get a filmic look AND I would boost my shadows by 5 to 10% and increase contrast by 5% AND increase colour saturation and colour temperature towards a cool blue to keep AWAY from Hollywood's typical TEAL and ORANGE look. I like my films ICE COLD and my skies/clouds NATURAL looking, so this camera with it's typical colour science is a good match for those who do documentary-oriented drama (i.e. period pieces), street-or-interview style productions and action/stunts filming.

For the sunset, firelight and candle-lit scene afficionados, I still think an Arri Alexa give you better low-light performance and warmer colour tones, but I definitely could argue for at least renting this camera for a few scenes! I'm curious if this 8K sensor will be introduced right away for the C300 Mk3 or whether it will be a sensor block upgrade available later in 2020!

Anyways this is a GOOD product challenge to the rest of the CURRENT field of cinema cameras ... BUT ... I should also note that NEW players are coming out very soon now with their own DCI 8K systems that quite shocked me in their image quality and camera body ruggedness! Canon is going to NEED TO WAAAAAY UP THEIR FEATURE SET GAME if they want to compete in this arena!
.

HikeBike · Mar 14, 2019

I have the RF 35 1.8, and it spends a lot of time on my R. I love that lens.

MrFotoFool · Mar 14, 2019

Personally I would not even buy a pristine 24-70 2.8 ii due to the lack of image stabilization. I mean if you use a tripod most of the time then go for it. But if you shoot handheld, I think a Tamron G2 or Sigma Art would be better for the image stabilization alone. Even Nikon has it on theirs and I cannot figure out why Canon has not put it into this popular focal length. For the record I use the Canon 24-70 f4L IS which is stellar (and has a convenient macro mode) and is a good alternative unless you really need f2.8 .

johnhenry · Mar 14, 2019

They'll delay it as long as possible, to avoid giving users a lower cost/more flexible video solution to keep pushing sales of 4K ones as long as possible

Chaitanya · Mar 14, 2019

Seems like this particular product has gone under radar but looks like Godox will be updating their old X1T.

Godox is showing off a new X2T trigger with easy group control and built-in Bluetooth at WPPI

www.diyphotography.net

flip314 · Mar 14, 2019

CanonFanBoy said:
At this point, Canon is clearly not worried about size and weight.

Sigma has been getting praise lately for building lenses with uncompromised optical performance even if it means larger, heavier lenses. I think Canon may be taking something away from that trend.

For people who really want a small system, there's still m43

Random Orbits · Mar 13, 2019

Ian_of_glos said:
Thank you.
I can't say that I have had problems with AF accuracy on either my 5D mk3 or my 5D mk4, but I did spend a long time using AFMA to fine tune all my lenses.
They all perform really well now and I would be surprised if I found that a camera from the EOS R stable produced better results. Generally I only use the cross type AF points so maybe that is another factor.
However, I agree with your main point that this is a period of transition, but for now there is nothing that is compelling me to move to the EOS R system.

It was more an issue of the less accurate baselines of the outer points (even cross types) and not AFMA. With smaller apertures, it wasn't an issue but with large apertures (i.e. f/1.4), it became a large enough issue that I tended to use servo and burst with outer points even for a static target, especially with the 50L (which wasn't the most accurate or sharpest to start with).

makera · Mar 13, 2019

SwissFrank said:
I cannot imagine that a presentation is going to be long enough to figure out how to use the camera.

It certainly focuses extremely quickly once you learn how it works.

You can certainly run the entire camera with the right hand. If you want two hands, you can use the left for support as usual, as well as zoom, focus, and if you want, adjusting the control ring (I have it set for aperture in A P and F modes).

My recommendation is to use the touch bar for AF mode, and the right-hand part of the touch screen in relative mode to move focus point. If you haven't tried that mode, long enough to get used to it, you wouldn't know enough to make a decision.

Yes, certainly a longer test is better. I had the camera for an hour to test in the hand and have only these impressions. I did not understand how to set the focus point quickly with just the right hand and without putting the camera off the eye. The Canon presenter had no idea.
With a 1DX II one is very spoiled (I only miss a quieter mode) and the R did not feel like an improvement. I'm waiting for an R pro.

ethanz · Mar 13, 2019

Sony is still investing a lot into their camera business.

awair · Mar 12, 2019

Just to clarify - there are two versions of "the manual": the basic "Instruction Manual", a paper guide that may be included with your camera (?) & and the "Advanced User Guide" (612 pages), which is download only.

Regrettably, it seems that you have to read the manual to work this out...

... not even sure if this (text) is in the Basic version!

iamjhil · Mar 12, 2019

I like the EVF, But In video The EVF Auto Mode, it automatically switches back and forth when I have the camera on a gimbal.
So I saved it with my video settings to be manually changed, then setup a button to toggle it on/off. So i have no gimbal issues

But in picture mode i like having it on Auto. Begin able to review photos on the screen after i take the picture.

It seems weird that I can't have that setting change based on my custom button settings....

Or am i doing something wrong? Thanks.

ken · Mar 12, 2019

Ughh... I guess the physics makes it impossible. I guess I haven't adjusted to the time change yet.

photonius · Mar 11, 2019

Mistral75 said:
IVY 2in1 instant camera looks like a digital camera with a built-in printer (think Instax Square SQ10) and IVY instant camera like a plain instant camera.

it was more of a joke. But seriously, the printer part is probably technically the part that uses most of the space. So, it's a printer, and they put in a camera (like those you find in a smart phone).

Michael Clark · Mar 11, 2019

Khristo said:
So I played with this a bit yesterday. Set up my 5D3 with a highly contrasty scene - inside looking from darker room areas out to bright blue sky and fluffy white clouds. Set a middling manual exposure of aperture and shutter (can't remember exactly what, but say f8 and 60th), then took seven shots in 1 stop increments from 100 ISO through to 3200 ISO, all without changing the manual exposure settings.
Processed RAW images in Lightroom. Without any processing on import, the 100 ISO was very dark, while the 3200 was very bright. Then adjusted the exposure in LR (+3.0 stops for the 100 ISO, +2 stops for the 200 ISO, and so on to -3.0 for the 3200 ISO).
If the whole system (sensor, plus in-camera processing, plus LR processing) was ISO invariant, each image should have looked the same? Well they sure didn't.
The 100 ISO shot had MASSIVE noise in the pushed dark areas while the 1600 and 3200 ISO shots were not noisy in that area. The sky areas in the 100 ISO shot were nice blue sky and fluffy cloud detail. Same areas in the 3200 ISO shot was totally blown white, and almost as much in the 1600 shot. (White balance was also different at the same colour temp setting.)

After reading this thread and some other info, I had expected to see much less difference. And that would have made sense from the idea that the physical sensor's light gathering capability can't change based on what ISO you dial in. In fact, having seen the results of my simple test, I'm now wondering what the hell is going on in-camera to get this difference - even wondering if the camera can evaluate the scene, compare with your Av Tv and ISO settings and maybe adjust the settings a bit (without telling you or your RAW file) on the basis of an assumption of what you're trying to achieve. Seems unlikely, but I really am sceptical that such a difference would be evident just from the difference between the analogue and digital amplification steps.

Anyway, upshot is, if you got a 5D3, don't think you can set any 'ol number on the ISO dial and fix it later. Not quite sure how, but there's a big difference.

The difference is that dynamic range is always relative, never absolute. It's saying the same thing in a different way as when we say "noise": what we really mean is the Signal-to-Noise Ratio. You can have three times as much noise in an image, but if you have nine times the signal (and have not blown the highlights) then you have a cleaner image.

When you underexpose by three stops at ISO 100, you're packing all of the dynamic range of the scene into the lowest 8th of the camera's dynamic range without reducing the camera's fixed pattern and read noise. When you overexpose by three stops, you're placing all of the camera's dynamic range in the dimmest parts of the scene.

JPAZ · Mar 11, 2019

Put it on Eco mode. I don't see much different except for the review and LCD is much shorter. Tried the viewfinder on the economy setting and it became pretty "choppy." I have 3 batteries (one that came with the camera and 2 from before) so I will leave the viewfinder on "smooth" for now. The feels very much slower than the %Div but the reality is it will not matter for most applications.

So, at the end of the day, the biggest annoyance is the need to use DPP to view the RP's .CR3 files and then sends a TIFF back to PS (or LR through a circuitous route). I know that the folks at Adobe will get a .CR3 reader for LR and PS (and hopefully so will Topaz) but I hope that is soon. Anyway, I think this is a "keeper" now that I've had a few days with it.

digigal · Mar 10, 2019

Thanks for both your comments. I think SereneSpeed really narrowed it down for me at this point. Most of my shooting is still with my 7DMII + 100-400 II. I'm just beginning to more seriously add full frame, wider angle photography to my interests. So for the added versatility of the RF 35 vs the SA 35, I think it's the place to start for me.

Kit. · Mar 10, 2019

slclick said:
Has there already been a 'Where's the G7Xiii?" post?

G7X III + CCAPI ...

awair · Mar 10, 2019

My 2c, given only 48 hours with the camera.

It's a great purchase for the money: full frame, native EF lenses and smaller than my SL1, which is now "officially" retired!

The good: as above; Accurate AF; EVF is not noticeably 'E', until... see below

The bad: EVF - not bright enough outdoors (no option to change); not the blackout, but the 'freeze frame' & preview, while trying to compose next shot; EVF too slow to activate, when bringing camera to eye.
AF - no idea what 'auto' is trying to lock on; 'spot' is fiddly to change (miss the joystick)

Things to get used to: buttons a little close together, for recalling customised settings (AF on, set to AF OFF; *, set to centre the focus point); don't leave in 'M' mode - no image visible until the exposure settings are close!

Kit Lens Jockey · Mar 10, 2019

For the life of me, I cannot find an online manual for the Canon RU-41 roll paper unit. Does anyone know where I can find the manual for this?

Viggo · Mar 10, 2019

privatebydesign said:
What 1 series? As I understand, from Mt Spokane's excellent link, the newer standard wasn't implemented into cameras until at least the 1D MkIV or more probably the 1DX.

But your findings run contrary to mine. I found the older cameras needed more exposure than suggested and the newer cameras pretty much spot on.

Yeah, I can’t remember when, but I think at least the mk4 had it... and so should every camera on the planet..

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