Posts

navastronia · Oct 10, 2019

Michael Clark said:
I suspect Canon thought, correctly, that the typical user of these cameras is a consumer whose best choice is using 30p (29.98) in the U.S and other NTSC countries and 25p in PAL countries because that is what their televisions use and what most basic video editors for consumers use. Thus they were trying to simplify the choice that gives the majority of the buyers of those products the best user experience.

By adding 24p as a firmware update, they can have their cake and eat it too. The average home video shooter isn't likely to do a firmware update after the purchase. The rare wanna-be filmmaker that thinks even the cheaper models should offer everything the higher models do can now STFU about no 24p on a camera they never, ever had any intention of buying even if it does offer 24p.

lol

Ozarker · Oct 10, 2019

mb66energy said:
You are no idiot. I ran into the same problem several times but do not tell it to others

Had to laugh. I have messed up dozens of times, but too afraid to tell it. haha

Ozarker · Oct 9, 2019

navastronia said:
Love the angel wings photo!

Thank you. It amazes me how sharp that lens is at f/1.2

mkabi · Oct 9, 2019

Yeah, if I were to recommend a camera today for video (for a first kit) it would be the Fuji XT-3. Just buy the body with standard zoom 18-55 f/2.8-4. It’s more affordable and more capable in terms of video than any Canon DSLR/MILC in 2019.

Going forward, don’t buy into a specific brand. They will all let you down, in one way or another. In terms of lenses, buy the trinity of primes (25 or 35, 50, 85 and/or 135) and buy them in PL mount (get PL adapter to fit whatever new camera you get and call it a day); learn to manual focus, it’s actually a lot of fun.

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 9, 2019

Sharlin said:
I don't think they mentioned Nikon in that article. The chart shows Canon, Sony and Olympus.

Thanks, I missed that.

Aussie shooter · Oct 9, 2019

Michael Clark said:
A lens can be very usable hand held for a little while. That same lens may not be as usable hand held when aimed continuously at potential subjects for several hours.

I shoot high school football with my heaviest lens on a monopod. From the sideline most of the action begins between the hash marks and is in the same general direction from my position over the course of each play.

I take that lens off the monopod for the halftime show, where potential subjects are closer to and even on the sideline and they are spread all over the field at a much wider range of angles to my position.

After halftime, I then put the lens back on the monopod for the second half, when most plays are all shot with the camera pointed in roughly the same direction.

The halftime show lasts about eight minutes for each band. I'm there mostly to shoot one of the two. The football game lasts 48 minutes on the game clock, plus the time when the clock is not running until the next play starts. Each half usually lasts around an hour to an hour and twenty minutes or so. A lens that is not too heavy to hand hold for eight minutes can be too heavy to hand hold more or less continuously for two and one half hours.

Ok. Fair call. I have often had a Tele like this on a tripod for hours at a time with wildlife on a similar fashion. But having said that I still would never run it on a tiny mirrorlbody as it would mean I can't then use the same setup as an effective mobile unit due to its poor balance. So I suppose if you never really handhold for any length of time it makes enough sense. In situations like I tend to be in it doesn't and I guess I tend to see things from that perspective.

sid.safari · Oct 9, 2019

David_E said:
Taxonomy is the science of identifying, classifying, and naming living things. Could someone clarify for me how the term could apply to a camera store.

Camera stores have many products and sku's. For better shopping experience all those products have to be classified in an easy to find / navigate system. Taxonomy isn't just the classification of living things (though that is where it is popularly used). It is a scheme of classification that can be applied to any system.

Michael Clark · Oct 8, 2019

Kit. said:
No. It's to get a "picture with the subject occupying more of the total frame in the final image" with an acceptable image quality. You can get the same picture from a lower resolution sensor, but its image quality will be lower (in this case, worse than acceptable).

Which pretty much what you have previously been disagreeing with every time i said it. Gld to see you finally see it my way.

RPF · Oct 8, 2019

Actually this is the newest patent for FF mirrorless 70-200/2.8 (for Example 1, 2and3 ), aspherical UD lens is utilized, extremely high resolution and good multi-wavelength abberation correction.

privatebydesign · Oct 8, 2019

I ran 1DS MkIII’s for years and absolutely loved them and their output. I ended up upgrading to the 1DX MkII and have to say it is a vastly better camera in every single respect.

I can understand the emotional attachment to a camera you have used for many years but if you love everything about that 1DS MkIII you will be even happier with the 1DX MkII.

richperson · Oct 8, 2019

ClickIt_AC said:
I hope so too. I make full use of my R with grip and see no reason for there not to be larger body with combined grip, 2 x Card slot and a Joystick with a pro version.

I am wondering if the 1DX III could be the 30 mpx 'R' sensor slightly dumbed down to give 30 FPS? Maybe that is another post.

I think it unlikely, but I kind of hope they do--as long as they can provide it with no blackouts and smooth motion in the EVF. Being able to run RF lenses on it would be very nice.

Ozarker · Oct 8, 2019

YuengLinger said:
Interesting. I have a blown out backlighting shot from the 85mm 1.2 also, and it's great except where the hair gets raggedy from simply being "erased" in tiny patches by the overexposure. Otherwise I like the photo so much. I don't have my full setup right now for PP, as I'm remodeling and painting (real paint, latex!), so I haven't given it much attention yet.

My first thought would be to lightly clone in a smoother fringe using the other wing--while reversing the direction of effect in the Clone Tool's settings box. And probably fiddle with lightly smudging it...Or, just in LR, try using negative clarity along the raggedy part of the wing to mitigate the problem?

But I wonder if, in camera, I should be exposing less and more willing to lighten the skin tones in post. At low ISO's, not such a huge hit to IQ--maybe? When the sun is involved beyond true golden hour, hard to work with, for sure.

Were the two photos taken close to the same time? Or was the brighter one significantly earlier?

The bright one was a few minutes earlier. Had I thought about it I might have bumped to f/16 and seen whether I'd get a sun star from the orange sun. As the sun is setting, time gets real precious... so ideas are overwhelmed by time. Just need a lot more practice.

Still, given the theme, I don't mind the left side being blown out at all. Gives me the impression of moving from a dark world and into a world of light, if that makes sense.

Rob-downunder · Oct 7, 2019

Hi All,

Thanks very much for everyone’s input and feedback. With the information provided here as well as checking out some further online reviews, I am confident that the M6 will suit 98% of what I need, so I am going to go ahead with the change and look forward to reducing the load I need to carry when travelling. Now I’m off to list my gear on eBay !!!

Rob

cayenne · Oct 7, 2019

Hmm...I'd have to go to the $152 level to get the things I"d actually be interested in....the FStoppers Peter Hurley class looks interesting, The Rob Grimm beverage shooting tutorials (watched him on Creative Live awhile back, was quite interesting)....

Plus in the level below that one is included and has some asltrophotograpy info that looks interesting....

I dunno....I got money I need to save for hardware, figure I can figure out the rest....but a couple of those are tempting with a closer look.

Hmm.

masterpix · Oct 7, 2019

Michael Clark said:
Just be sure to put the mylar in front of the lens, not between the lens and the camera!

View attachment 186983

Auch, I already seen people who managed to destroy their shutter screen.

SecureGSM · Oct 6, 2019

Correct. It does loose all the mood. This applies only in situations when the ambient is so bad that you would have thought having a black background is a lesser issue

. Only then. Otherwise I don what you would do. We are on the same page. Thank you !

Ozarker · Oct 5, 2019

SecureGSM said:
Can we send Harry over there just for a day? That will teach them a lesson or two...

He's CRANKING up the Liberty Bell NOW!

*At the very least, Harry is entertaining and seems really smart to a dummy like me.

RayValdez360 · Oct 4, 2019

proutprout said:
Again this just shows Canon is unable to deliver RF bodies. What are they waiting for ? 2030 ? Or maybe another 60 new lenses, just to make sure we have everything covered. But it’s ok, while time passes we can shoot with the RP ! Amazing.

20 years of EF glass isnt good enough? I dont see any rush going to RF. The benefits seem geared towards photos than video ATM.

RayValdez360 · Oct 4, 2019

Pretty cool. I need a good 4k box cam. hopefully with c log 3 to match my c200.

Viggo · Oct 3, 2019

Anyone else scouting for new cameras?

Ozarker · Oct 3, 2019

Kit. said:
...bump?

I've snipped it so it can be recycled next year. #savingmotherearth

SteveC · Oct 3, 2019

Pape said:
55-250mm should do good ,you anyway want crop wildlife.
It isnt wild if you can fill full frame with it

You can get quite close to live, non-zoo Komodo dragons. I'm sure I could have filled a full frame if I had one.

Oct 3, 2019

Mt Spokane Photography said:
They will not be supported directly by ver6, but its easy to use Canon DPP to convert them into a tiff file that can be edited in LR 6. Raw files are basically tiff files with additional information flags that tell a editing software about camera settings. Generally, you don't need that data, so a tiff file is fine.

The second method is to convert them to a DNG file. DNG files are also tiff, but have their own set of flags to describe the camera settings. Not all software will edit a DNG file, and not all will edit a tiff file, but its more universal.

Both are basically raw files. BTW, Adobe owns the tiff specification, so you can't get away from using them unless you shoot jpeg.

Thanks very much indeed - that is very informative and helpful

transpo1 · Oct 2, 2019

Kit. said:
My Pixel 3a doesn't support recording in 24p! Google is doomed!

Haha, that's silly. The Pixel phones are already doomed.

Jonathan Thill · Oct 2, 2019

Michael Clark said:
But what, exactly, is 'CPS pricing'? What do you mean when you say "there is CPS pricing on this lens" or "there is not CPS pricing on that lens?"

The only discount I've gotten from Canon in the U.S. was on a refurbished camera body through the CLP (Canon Loyalty Program), which does not require CPS membership.

CPS pricing is special reduce price (?%) for working professionals, to get a list of what is offered talk to CPS. Authorized dealers can also request the current pricing and offered products. *Note* it has been my experience that only the highest end items are offered, the 5 series bodies is not offered for example

You can then have your local dealer bring in the gear for you at the CPS price. Here is an example of a dealer offering CPS pricing.

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