Can anyone tell me what lens mount this is? There are no threads, just a smooth ring. And while it looks like it should come off, so far it has not.

I want to mount an EOS mount so I can use the lens. It's an 1100mm MTO f10.5 Russian Lens btw.

Good day everyone,

I was hoping I could get some input/insight from the group. Several months back, I had the good fortune of stumbling across an Open Box 1DX Mark II being sold at ridiculous markdown by a local retailer. It had been their Display Unit, and as Canon had discontinued the model, I was able to pick it up for about $800USD - a deal which I thought was a steal for a 1DX Mark II with fewer than 1,000 actuations.

To avoid making this story too lengthy, what has blown me away about this 1DX Mark II so far has been how absolutely dirty the sensor is. At first, I assumed that as it was open box, that it must have been left without a cover in a high dust environment. No worries, off to Canon it goes for a free cleaning as a CPS member. It comes back - first shot afterwards, the sensor was still absolutely dirty. Emails with Canon result in them asking me to send it back in - no problem, maybe the folks in Newport News forgot to clean it somehow.

So this past weekend I have it back after a second cleaning at Canon, and this is what all of the images I took that day look like. Obviously this has been equalized, but the sheer volume of spots just stuns me. Is this normal for 1DX series bodies? I have seen some mention of oil spatter, with some folks saying it is worse than others, but the degree of dirtiness that I am encountering with this sensor is not anything that I am used to whatsoever. I shot for 7+ years with the old 100-400mm push pull "dust pump" and never even needed to spring for cleaning of my 7D. I know how to take care of my gear and not introduce dust etc. to the sensor when swapping lenses. Are these sample images below normal?

Airplanes and birds are my two biggest subjects photography-wise, dust spots of this magnitude are absolutely brutal against a blue sky background. I already have some PTSD from the few that I have tried to go and remove all of the individual spots from.

Is this just what life will look like with a 1DX series body? I am trying to resist the temptation to start using it as a paperweight on my desk while the 6DII goes back into the bag



NKP_3860 by Nicholas Peterman, on Flickr

I miss the hell out of that lens. The RF 50 1.8 does not cut it. I know Samyang has ported some stuff over already and I'm sure Canon dude would post something if he heard it. Just wishing more than anything I guess

A new optical formula patent showing off some ultra-wide prime lenses for the RF mount has been uncovered by Canon News.
An ultra-wide prime lens would obviously be a big seller for Canon, and I expect we’ll see this missing lens for the RF lineup sometime in...

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Canon News has uncovered a patent for a Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro 1:1.4x. A macro for the RF system is already long overdue and I expect that we’ll see one announced some time this year.
The cool thing about this patent is that it has a 1:1.4x macro capability, unlike the current version which is 1:1.
Below are the two embodiments of the in Japan Patent Application 2021-047297. The second one is a bit confusing, as the aperture increases as the magnification increases, does this mean it’s an f/1.4 optical design? Time will tell.






Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro 1:1.4x...

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The Canon USA Store has stock of the refurbished Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM for $2069 (Reg $2299). All refurbished gear comes with a full 1-year Canon USA warranty.
Key Features


Zoom Focal Length: Focal Length: 24-70mm
Lens Type: Wide Angle to Telephoto Zoom Lens
Image Stabilization: Image Stabilization: Yes (IS)
Special Features: Weather Resistant
Filter Size: Focal Length: 82mm


Canon RF 24-70 f/2.8L IS USM $2069

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Adorama has a Seagate 2 Pack IronWolf 8TB 3.5″ Hard Drive, SATA 6GB/s, 7200RPM as their Deal of the Day for $369 (Reg $419)
Key Features

2 Pack 7200 RPM spindle speed
Full-track multiple-sector transfer capability without local processor intervention
High instantaneous (burst) data-transfer rates (up to 600MB per second)
Native Command Queuing with command ordering to increase performance in demanding applications
PowerChoice for selectable power savings
Perpendicular recording technology provides the drives with increased areal density
SeaTools diagnostic software performs a drive self-test that eliminates unnecessary drive returns
State-of-the-art cache and on-the-fly error-correction algorithms

Seagate 2 Pack IronWolf 8TB 3.5″ Hard Drive $369 (Reg $419)

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Ronkonkoma, NY – March 25, 2021 – Today, SIGMA Corporation introduces the SIGMA fp L, the world’s smallest and lightest 61-megapixel full-frame mirrorless camera.  Built with the same dimensions and rigorous attention to detail as the currently-available SIGMA fp, this new camera offers a high-resolution image sensor, an improved hybrid autofocus system, continuous power capability, and several additional in-camera features that make it an exceptional tool for demanding photographers and video creators.
“The SIGMA fp is one of the most innovative cameras available today, and the new fp L brings even more to the table,” says SIGMA America President Mark Amir-Hamzeh.  “It offers incredibly high resolution in an extremely small body, compatibility with an extensive library of lenses, limitless customizability, and the rock-solid build quality that professionals have come to expect from SIGMA.”...

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I am trying to figure out flash sync setup for R5 and pocketwizard triggered monolights. All of the info I find is regarding setup for external Canon speedlights. Anyone firing monolights from an R5?

I am getting a dark edge down the right which tells my I am not synced properly, but can't figure out what settings to use to correct the problem.

Conclusions in the video. It is a long video but I compared these lenses over a period of several months. Cliff notes image quality is very similar. Giving away the 400 F5.6 at 1000 subs

Just took it for a test ride for a couple of hundred shots with some proper photographic charts. Fast, precise AF. Sharp all the way. Best at the longer end FL, as others have noted, but overall delivers very well on the optics. Handling is not as good as the 100-400 IS L II even if its lighter. Almost macro capable. No regrets here after using the lens today as I continue to add RF-lenses to my collection. Hope to be able to test it "in the wild" the next couple of weeks.

Canon has partnered with Tokyo Electron and Screen Semiconductor Solutions to develop advanced chipmaking production technology with support from the Japanese government according to a report by Nikkei Asia.
The $386mil USD funding from the Japanese government is through the National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology, along with the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI).
Japans semiconductor production industry has lost ground in recent years to Taiwanese chipmakers and companies like Intel.
The goal is to develop and implement a 2-nanometer or smaller process for chips by the mid-2020s.

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The rumors about a high-megapixel EOS R5 have been around since the release of the camera. Most of us have reported a Canon camera with an 80mp image sensor, but by the sounds of it, Canon will take the resolution much higher.
A solid source has told me that Canon hasn’t yet internally decided on which image sensor will come in the new high-megapixel RF mount camera. This camera will replace the equally loved and hated EOS 5DS and EOS 5DS R.
Apparently, the goal now is to be north of 100mp, to provide even more separation between the EOS R5’s 45mp and the new high-megapixel sensor. The same source also mentions that it’s not simply going to be an EOS R5 body with a higher resolution sensor, but a camera geared towards landscape and studio photographers. What that means ergonomically, I’m not sure.
More to come…

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An introduction to my new channel and an overview off a typical day in the woods. Not all fun and games.

SAN DIEGO, CA – March 23, 2021 – Sony Electronics Inc. has announced the addition of three new G Lenses™ to its impressive E-mount line-up – the FE 50mm F2.5 G (model SEL50F25G), FE 40mm F2.5 G (model SEL40F25G) and FE 24mm F2.8 G (model SEL24F28G). All three lenses deliver high image quality and beautiful bokeh in a lightweight and compact design, perfect for photographers and videographers needing high image quality combined with easy mobility.
When paired with a Sony full-frame or APS-C camera, all three lenses offer high resolution, intuitive operability, and fast, precise and quiet AF (autofocus) capabilities. The lenses were designed for a wide range of photo and video uses including portraiture, landscape, street photography and more.

“At Sony we are constantly innovating to develop the best tools that allow photographers and video creators to realize their artistic vision,” said Neal Manowitz, deputy president for Imaging Products and Solutions Americas at Sony...

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I'm asking how the R5 and an ETTL Speedlite such as the 600EXT work with the Speedlite in Manual mode?

The question is basically this: When the off-camera Speedlite is in Manual does the R5 basically ignore the Speedlite when calculating the camera's automatic exposure settings? From my limited testing, it appears that the R5 doesn't change the exposure if the flash is in Manual. What I want is for the camera to set the picture's lighting for the scene as normal without the flash. Then using a wireless trigger, I want to add an off-camera fill-flash for the shadows?

I realize that I could put the camera in manual and accomplish this but didn't spend $4k to get a dumb camera. Plus a lot of my model sessions involve shoot and scoot where I'm trying to minimize as many adjustments as possible. The amount of fill flash required is not that much to soften the contrast between the sunlit and shadow side of the face.

I've tried all of the flash settings in ETTL mode but generally, the flash wants to take over the lighting even in ambiance mode and often causes the background to be underexposed. My thought is if the camera can't control the flash but simply triggers it, then I can manually adjust the power on the flash to get the proper shadow exposure.

If I could get the camera to do nothing but trigger the flash and completely ignore it for exposure settings would solve all my problems? Well, maybe not all my problems but you know what I mean?

Just curious to hear if anybody has ordered the RF 100-500 recently (2021)? It seems this is on back-order everywhere, and the few posts I can find suggest that B&H, Adorama, Amazon, are sold out/backordered with Canon's store also on a soft backorder.

Placed my order from B&H the other day and just wondering how many week (or months?) I might expect to be waiting.

Hello,

I am a new user and this is my first post. I am looking for advice on settings and techniques for people using the EOS-R for birding. I have been having several problems with focusing including 1) obtaining focus and 2) keeping it. Depending on lighting conditions, my keeper rate can be 20% when the bird is moving (by keeper I mean percent of photos where the bird is in focus, ignoring composition). I am using the 100-400 Mark II either by itself or with a 1.4x III teleconverter.

Some of my problems are no doubt technique, but others are likely due to using the wrong settings.

In terms of exposure, I am shooting in manual mode with the lens wide open (F6.3 or F8 with 1.4x), shutter between 1/2000 and 1/4000, auto ISO, and spot metering. Many times my birds are severely underexposed when shooting against a bright sky, so I often set an exposure compensation of +1 or higher. Should I use a different metering method for BIF? Should I switch to fully manual and fix the ISO?

On an aside, what is the highest ISO I should use? I see a fair amount of noise starting at 3200. Maybe I should use Auto ISO, but set the upper limit at 1600 or 3200?

A few things happen with focusing. Sometimes the camera never obtains focus when pressing the * button. I was forced to use manual focus to get close then the * button would work. FYI, I have the * button set for metering and AF Start, and the lens is set to limit the focus range to 3 meters+. This problem got much better once I turned continuous focus search on.

Now I have two main challenges with AF. First is photographing large birds like Osprey in flight. The camera will achieve focus, then go out of focus, then have a hard time achieving focus again. Maybe I am using the * button incorrectly? Once I focus on the bird should I continue pressing *, or let go? I have Continuous AF off. Which AF method should I be using? 1 point, expand, expand around, or zone? The other challenge is focusing on a hovering humming bird. I almost wonder if I should go to manual focus in that scenario?

I would really appreciate it if some EOS-R birders would share all of their camera settings with me.

AF Operation: Servo is what I use, read a post suggesting using one shot
AF method: Typically use one point or expand, should I be using Zone?
Continuous AF - disabled or enabled?
Tracking Sensitivity: currently set -1
Accel/decel tracking: currently set +1
AF point autoswitching: usually set to 0, going to try using zone auto focus and set this to +2
Lens drive when AF impossible: currently turned on
Limit AF methods: which AF methods should I use?

Any other custom settings I should know about for birding?

I apologize for so many questions. THANK YOU for reading such a long post and for any insights!!
Chip

It looks like NAB 2021 is going to be a big show for Canon, as they will be releasing a bunch of new CINE lenses, possibly the Canon EOS R5c and now we have to been told that Canon will release the Canon XF505.
The Canon XF505 will sit between the XF405 and XF705 in the lineup. This camera has been rumored for quite some time, and below is the rumored specifications.
Canon XF505 Specifications:

Same 1″ sensor as the XF705
12G-SDI output and SD cards
An integrated zoom lens with 15x zoom
BP-A batteries

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Was in the middle of interviewing a candidate today when my R6 image (using as a webcam) started to shake like there was an earth quake. The Camera made some nasty noises and displayed Err 20.

The IBIS system is shot for sure and feels like someone is rattling rocks inside the Camera when you flip it on. Tried a reset for shits and giggles but still borked. Switched over to the R5 for the rest of the interview so nice it was handy.

Sent in a request to CPS to get a loaner and will ship the Camera off to them on Monday. I am on the west coast and CPS Canada is out east so they were gone for the day.

shizzle happens just happy it broke now while it is under warranty and not when I was on a trip.

For those interested the Camera has not been doing a lot of heavy lift with only about 1500 shots taken since Nov 2020 and maybe 5 hours of video. Was likely doomed when it was built because that is pretty low usage and I have not seen any similar reports.

Again shizzle happens and nothing is perfect, if it is going to pack it in do it early and all the way.

It was inevitable, but it looks like Canon is starting the discontinuation of EF lenses. I was told by Alex at FStoppers that the Canon EF 200mm f/2L IS USM is now unlisted or listed as discontinued at various retailers.
While it is still listed at Canon USA, the lens is no longer listed at Adorama and shown as “discontinued” at B&H Photo.
I will be watching these things closely over the next few months. I suspect a lot of the older and older higher priced lenses such as the EF 800mm f/5.6L IS USM are on their last legs.
Update: Canon USA has confirmed that the Canon EF 200mm f/2L IS USM will have service support from Canon until at least December 31, 2027. If parts remain after that date, service will likely continue until that inventory is depleted.

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HI all,

I have an my RF 24-105 f4 for about 6 months. I have noticed smeary corners in photos from time to time, but just put it down to camera shake (although I shoot mostly on a tripod). I decided to print out a big focus chart and test my lenses.

To me it looks like the top and especially top right have ghosting issues. It's worse at 50mm than at wide open. Even on f8 it's ghosting a lot compared to the left bottom corner. This image is f8 at 50mm, where it appears worse (also bad at around 35mm). It's a little cleaner at 24 and 105mm.

Here's a link to the full size image: https://ibb.co/QQP4HmT

Canon News has uncovered a patent that shows a touch panel on the barrel of a lens. The touch panel in this patent would take over for the focus control ring on the lens for autofocus.
It is possible that such a technology could also be expanded to allowing you to choose focus points with your thumb on the lens barrel. This is an interesting ergonomic development.
From patent 2021-043294
A technique described in Patent Document 1 is known as a technique in which a user-operable touch panel is provided on an interchangeable lens (lens device) that can be attached to a camera body. The interchangeable lens described in Patent Document 1 is provided with one or two rectangular touch panels extending in the circumferential direction, and focusing or the like is performed by the user operating the touch panels.

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Canon has published a patent showing a series of fast prime lenses for camera bodies equipped with a curved sensor. The only way to get the advantages of a curved sensor is to have lenses dedicated to it.
Curved sensors would reduce the complexity and likely size and weight of high-performance lenses. The caveat is that supporting a curved sensor will require each lens to have its own radius to be compatible with the curved image sensor.
The following optical designs appear in patent: 2019-166711

35mm f/1.0
35mm f/1.2
35mm f/1.4
50mm f/1.0
50mm f/1.2
65mm f/1.2
85mm f/1.0
85mm f/1.2
100mm f/1.2

Can we expect a curved sensor system from Canon? Who knows at this point, but both Sony and Canon are working on it. Are there enough camera buyers to support another mount?

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Unhappy to see some cracks in my white RF-lens foot coating causing small black spots to show underneath. I'm very careful with my lenses and have been very surprised at seeing this. Best guess is that it stems from carrying the lenses in my Black Rapid sling. But that should not cause any noticeable wear and tear. Anyone else noticing this?