I need some advice on panning techniques please:

1. Do I need an image-stabilized lens for panning (I tried panning with the 135/2 with less than desirable success)
2. What would be the appropriate shutter settings compared to the speed of the subject

I used AF servo, Mode 1 and 2 for tangentially moving subjects across the plane, the camera could focus well but I got either motion blur on the subject or not enough blur in the background depending on shutter speed.
Thanks for any help!

Hi everyone,

my question is ,

does anyone know what Canon "does" when they take both the body and lens for calibration?

I sent in my 24-70II since I noticed that it's not as sharp as my friend's copy (we bought them one week apart). I also mentioned that it's back focusing and that I've tried using AFMA but haven't got it right and would appreciate if that can be looked at too. To my surprise I was told that AFMA "shouldn't be used" except for "special" cases. I said, that I've been doing it all the time with all my bodies and lenses. After I sent a complaint to the person in charge of after sales/ warranty, I got a call saying that the "bad focus" is because I set AFMA and that it's stored in the ROM of the Lens.. My first words "Bull $hit" I couldn't help myself. It was obvious the person talking wasn't technical. I asked, so you mean to tell me that if I set AFMA for the 24-70II on my 1DX those settings are stored on the lens.. Reply.. YES.. .. I explained why this was complete Bull$hit.!! by asking "so that means, I can't use this lens on my other camera bodies.. SILENCE..

Long story short.. I was asked to send my my 1dx which they just "reset" ALL my AFMA settings and they re-flashed the ROM on both the 1dx and 24-70II and asked me to "retry".

I just finished testing using lensalign, (didn't feel like using focal pro). my manual testing resulted in (-4,-4).. Same as what I got with Focal Pro on the first day I got the 24-70II.

Any thoughts.. the CPS guy I spoke to wasn't very helpful.. He kept insisting that I should use the multicontroller/joystick to "SELECT the focus point"

you can imagine my frustration explaining DOF and that the little red square that's on the object tells me where I focused, and that object isn't sharp, hence SOMETHING is wrong. I asked him, do you take photos, he replied yes, I said I'm sorry but you're no photographer.. kinda mean, but I couldn't help it!!!!

Ok Rant over!!!!!!

My Camera Shop called me and 30 days after I put in a Pre-order, I got my 24-70L ii

My first shot was to compare sharpness with my 70-200 mk.ii. While the 70-200 does seem sharper (it's been AFMA's but not the 24-70 so I can let that slide... however with a test shot with both at 70mm, I was not prepared with the difference in framing... it is more than noticably different... I realize that there is some variation in difference lens models but I always thought 70mm should give me a similar framing regardless of the lens I used within a small tolerance... but this to me is huge. Is this to be expeced?

Attached are the shots at 70mm form the 24-70 ii and the 70-200 ii
F3.2
ISO100
Spot metered
AF Center

I have been lucky to save up for almost all the lenses I want within the last several years. I currently have the following - MP-E 65, 100L macro, TS-E 17, TS-E 24, TS-E 90, 16-35 2.8 II, 24-105, 8-15 fisheye, and 70-200/2.8 II. For the most part I have all of the tripods, lighting, and other things I desire. My one big hole is a telephoto.

As one of my biggest joys is bird and wildlife photography, this is a big hole. Ever since I started in photography it has been my desire to have a good telephoto, but right now the best I can do is a 2x III extender on my 70-200/2.8 II. It does a decent job and I sold my 100-400 because the combo was very comparable, but now I would like something a bit better.

I am mainly looking for something to photograph birds and mammals that I come across. I am not a true birder, but I do like photographing them and have learned to do a decent job with the equipment I have right now so I am reaching the point where equipment will make a big difference.

I have done a great deal of research for some time, but being ever cautious I thought I would ask for opinions on my choice to make sure it is a wise one - as we are dealing with a lot of money.

First, $7k is about my maximum. Even that will be extremely difficult and will likely mean no photography purchases for the next year. I will have to seriously beg my better half and I am unlikely to be able to do something like this for many years afterwards.

Weight and bulk are concerns and are not. Most of my photography is local, so I have the ability to carry something large. However, we do travel somewhere interesting each year and sometimes that place has decent wildlife. Next year we are going to Australia, where it would be nice to use it. However if the lens is too large to take, then I'll be OK.

Note that this will be for a 5D3. I used to own a 7D but was not happy with the image quality so I sold it when I bought the 5D3.

The following are options I have considered.

600 II, 500 II, 800/5.6, 400 2.8 II - These are all above my budget
200-400/1.4x - Doesn't actually exist and will certainly be above my budget
Used 600 I - Strongly considered this, but the thing is so huge. I handhold most of my bird shots now. Won't happen with this one.
Used 400 2.8 I - This lens does not handle extenders well
Used 500 I - Smaller than the 600, but used prices are not much less. This is a tough one, but I think my choice is the better way to go.
Used 300/2.8 - A much cheaper choice, but in this case I believe the 300/2.8 II is the best choice.

The following are reasons why I am leaning towards the 300/2.8 II.
- I am a sucker for new things. Call me overcautious, but I prefer to have the latest and greatest.
- Optically it looks amazing. Looking at these charts it appears to compete well with the 500/4 I - http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=117&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=1&LensComp=739&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=1
- It handles extenders very well - even a 2x. I am sure AF will take a good hit, but I'll have a decent 600/5.6 that will be sharper and likely have better AF than my existing 70-200/2.8 II + 2x.
- It's smaller - making hand holding much easier and I can take it on vacation as necessary

Does this sound logical, or am I overlooking something?


Below are some examples of the photos I have taken so far.

The Successful Hunter by CalevPhoto, on Flickr


Getting Ready by CalevPhoto, on Flickr

World Wide Web interest in "canon" as compared to "nikon" has been dropping since 2004. At some point, one would hope, Canon would do something to re-energize their brand:
http://www.google.com/trends/explore#q=canon,%20nikon

Thanks,
Drew

So….my lens lineup got all jumbled and rearranged when I went from the 7D to the 5D3. I had this setup:

10-22
35 f/2
50 1.4
24-70 2.8 L
70-200 f/4


I now have:
17-35 Tamron (love it)
40 Flapjack
24-70 2.8 L
70-200 f/4

Funny how the two niches I am spending most of my time and actually making money from these days don't have lenses represented in that lineup.

I'm missing a low light prime (50/85/100)
Dedicated Macro (EF 100 2.8 or Tamron 90 SP Di 2.8)

It's hard for me to pick up a FL too close to the 40 because the 5D3 does so well in low light but I'd like something with more and better blades. The 85 1.8 vs 100 f/2 conundrum is swirling in my head as well as the Macro need and not wanting a redundant or similar FL with these two lenses. I've had a 85 before but that was with a T2i. Will I experience it in a different light? And I don't mean focal length but sharpness; center and corner, CA etc.

I've been using the 24-70 and 70-200 for portraiture (group/family outdoors)
and a Lensbaby Macro kit for …Macro.

Do you see the need for me to get a sub 2.8 lens? I WILL be getting a dedicated Macro but will it be fast enough for portraiture? I know it's sharp enough

Thanks in advance for your thoughts y'all.

I am looking at Canon's 85mm f/1.2L and the 85mm f/1.8. I am amazed at the difference in price between these two lens as I read great reviews for both. I am planning to buy one of the two, mainly to be used for indoor sports, i.e. basketball, volleyball, hockey, etc. mated to a 5d Mark III. I currently use a 70-200 f/2.8L II for this, but I would like a tad more speed (so I can reduce the ISO and noise) and bokeh in my images. Most shots are taken between about 90-140mm. I can get closer to the court if need be. I read an article a few months ago (can't find it now) in which the reviewer felt that the 1.2 version did not focus as quickly as the 1.8 which made it worse for indoor sports. This was an eye opener to me and couldn't believe that a $400 lens would focus faster than a $2,000 lens. Does anyone out there have experience with one or both of these lens? If so, can you give me some input on how you feel it would do for what I plan to use it for. Thanks in advance.

Hi,

I have noticed something strange. 1DX, GP-E1, 70-200 II with 2X.

I had the camera at a 45 degree angle, so half way between landscape and portrait, the IS system was making noisy and I was unable to auto focus.
I switched the camera off , back on again --> everything fine, up to about an hour later when I was pointing upward to take a shot of a bird high in tree.

It looks like that at certain angles ~ 45 degrees the GP-E1 gets confused.

I tried without the GP-E1 and I am unable to reproduce the "problem"

My questions:
1) has anybody had the same problem?
2) is the GP-E1 info used for IS?


This is a minor problem, just switch camera off on and it is solved. I am just curious?

Regards,

Ben

I am seriously sitting here ready to pull the trigger and order my 5D Mark iii. I have L glass and currently shoot with a T4i. I do just fine with my camera and LR4, but know that the FF be a better choice, especially for my indoor event photography. If I was ready to order this last month or the month before, i wouldn't be worried about anything, but this close to Nov, I have to wonder if I am going to be angry with myself for missing the next 2750.00 type sale. Typically, do these sales begin early Nov or closer to black Friday/X-Mas? If B and H only drops this camera by 100 or so, I won't care, but saving almost 800 bucks had I waited 2-3 weeks would def make me regretful. I know it shows a 5D3 in my profile, but I had planned on having it by this week...LOL Everything else in my profile I own now.

Currently I own a 24L II, 50L and 70-200mm L IS II. I have barely ever touched the 24L as was thinking about selling both the 24L and 50L and buying a 24-70 II. What do you guys think? I do both video and stills and a lot of the times I would like to just have the flexibility of a zoom. Plus I could always pick up a rokinon cine 35 and 85 for the times I do video? What do you guys think ? This is on full frame btw

Just Hoping on Some Suggestions for booms, stands, soft-boxes (for speed lights) and other bits like sync cables and cheaper solutions to lighting effectors.


what are you using?

at least in DXO´s video benchmark.....

http://3.static.img-dpreview.com/files/news/2670692826/DxO.png?v=1702

so when canon cameras have such bad sensors.... why not including a phone and make them worth the money? ;D

GPS and WIFI is already there.... touchscreen from the 650D.... and finished is the 6D MK2 with included mobile phone..... hey i might even buy one then.....

Hi all,

What would be the best settings on my 5D mark III (Zeis Prime 50mm 2.0) for making a movie (short fiction)?

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Dave

Hi all,

I own the 5D Mark III and a Zeiss 50mm 2.0 prime. I'm ready for a Zeis wide angle, such as the 25mm, 28 or 35. What would be a good buy for video (music videos, shorts)?

Thanks and have a good day,

Dave

currently using Sandisk Ultra (probably their slowest card now :-\ ) on my 5D1.

i find this combo to be very slow for writing speed (don't really care for reading speed).

and seeing these Extreme (not Extreme Pro) CF cards goes for $35 for 8GB at B&H, wondering if running one of these faster CF would benefit me at all? or is it limited by my buffer? which seems to be small?

I shoot Jpeg most of the time now becoz of this, shooting Raw is really lagging.

i assume the 5d2 and 5d3 has larger buffer, wondering what user with older Canon body like mine are using and want to hear their experience.

Thanks!

I just wanted to know how I can calibrate the AF of my Canon 24-70L when mounted on a Canon 60D. Since there is no AFMA in the 60D does that mean my only resolution is to send it to Canon and have them take a look at it? Also, I dont know if its really an AF issue, it's known to be soft at f2.8 but when set to f5.6 or above it starts to become sharper but still not quite as sharp as I was hoping an expensive lens like this to be. Is this really a known property of this lens? You know, being a little soft.

Hi everybody.

This is my first post although i have been a frequent visitor for some time and the knowledge i have gained in doing so has been invaluable.
The trouble is stalking other peoples threads won't always yield the answer required. So this is my first question and I'm a little nervous, i've never been very good at public speaking.

70-300L + 135L/200L or 300L IS + 70-200 f4 non IS

Both combinations give similar flexibility in different packages for a similar price. The reason I want the reach of 300mm is for local cricket matches. Although it probably won't be long enough they are the longest lenses i can afford that retain IS.
I currently own the 75-300 III (came as part of the kit with my 550d/t2) and it is impossible to hand hold at 300mm so IS will come in handy even though I'll propbably drag my tripod along anyway.

The 70-300L by all reports is a very good lens the only draw back on a crop camera being the variable apperture which will be 5.6 at 300mm - where most of the shots will be. Which is why i've included either the 135L or the 200L to compensate for low light-action-stopping goodness.

The 300L IS gets me an extra stop of light at 300mm but it leaves me at 300mm. So the 70-200 is included for a bit of flexibility.

My other lenses include the 18-55 kit lens, 10-22, 100L IS macro (the reason for me needing to upgrade my other lenses) and the 50 1.4


So..... if there is anyone out there who has shot any cricket (or other sports that are similar) can you point me in the right direction. Or am I completely wrong in thinking that any of these lenses will be long enough keeping in mind that is is just the local Tasman Peninsular cricket association so i could probably just walk onto the ground if I'm not close enoough.

P.S. The Tasman peninsula is also one of the most scenic areas in Tasmania (Australia) so there will be plenty of other photo opportunities if the cricket sucks.

Hi everyone, I have my first fashion show shoot this Thursday and I am wondering what lens should I use and what settings?

The body that I have is: Canon t3i

Lenses:
Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8
Canon EFS 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II
Canon EF 85mm USM f/1.8

Flash:
Canon 430exII

Accessories:
Monopod

Battery Grip

I am wondering what settings to use?

I have been told to keep the Shutter speed between 1/200-500, F/stop 2.8-4.0,AI servo, spot metering, and Iso no more than 800 due to the noise and because the t3i does not do well in low light.


I am not sure if I will be allowed to use a flash.

Any suggestions and tips.

Just my Little mini-review of this sweet lens. Feel free to critique it if you like, I don't do many reviews.

http://ramonlperez.tumblr.com/post/33253428138/fast-prime-shoot-out-pt-1-85mm-1-2l-ii-mini-review

Hey everyone I have a choir I am photographing this Saturday the 13th and I was hoping to get your opinions on what lens I should rent for this. I was thinking about the Canon 16-35L Canon 14L or maybe the Sigma 12-24. The choir is about 50 kids and the director wants the something different than the typical riser shots, anyone got any ideas on large group shots? Thank you in advance to potential replies!

Hello all,

Can someone help my confusion. I have my Canon 5D3 set to 24 fps.

I have imported it directly into FCPX...and happened to notice when trying a bit of light color grading...in the effects area, it had been checked convert from 23.95 to 24 fps.

When I imported..I was paused and puzzled a bit, in the import which asked if I wanted to import based on the first frame....it wasn't 24fps...I had to manually set that, but I didn't think much about it.

Anyway, have verified in my camera, video has been set to 24fps...and hasn't ever been changed from that since I bought the camera and made the setting.

I thought I'd read that this was a problem on the old 5D2's, before firmware upgrade...but I'd not have thought it would be anything to worry about on the 5D3...

Can someone help me know what I'm doing wrong or seeing/Setting wrong?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Well, Canon has dropped the ball. You can shoot RAW with the G15, bring them into ImageBrowser EX, try to open them in DPP, but no go on any edits of any type. It's a format that DPP sees as RAW but cannot display or edit. Of course, Adobe isn't ready for these yet, and who knows when. I've verified this on 2 windows boxes, mac to follow.

How can Canon sell a camera that you cannot work with the files? Don't tell me to use the JPEGS, I would have just stuck with a crappy P&S. The hope that f1.8 and the return of macro capability are what sold the camera to me.

Grrr. Actually, double grrr to you Canon.

Hi all,
I would like to hear some first-hand experiences from people using a 5D3 and M/F lenses. They can be Canon, 3rd-party or adapted vintage pieces. I am of course particularly interested in shooting at very wide apertures - let's say f/2 as a minimum - and in knowing how precise focus confirmation is without a dedicated screen - like the EG-S.

To be clear, I mean shooting looking through the viewfinder and using the focus points, not in live-view mode.

Thanks in advance for any comment