This: (displayed on an old EF17-40 lens)What does this mean, from the specs table?
Filter Size Diameter None (inserted in gelatin filter holder at the rear of the lens)
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This: (displayed on an old EF17-40 lens)What does this mean, from the specs table?
Filter Size Diameter None (inserted in gelatin filter holder at the rear of the lens)
My main use for the 14-35/4 is urban travel shooting, and IMO it’s a great lens for that. When I look at my usage data with the 14-35/4, 52% of my shots are between 14-20mm and 48% are between 21-35mm.If I hadn't bought the RF 14-35mm F4 a year or two ago, I would've preordered asap today. … Furthermore, my decision nausea would hit new levels (RF 14-35mm or 10-20mm??????) especially for city travels
Thanks. What kind of useful filter would fit here? Just ND?This: (displayed on an old EF17-40 lens)
It means there’s a gel filter slot on the mount. You can cut gelatin filters to fit it, I did that for the 11-24 with a 10-stop ND gel.What does this mean, from the specs table?
Filter Size Diameter None (inserted in gelatin filter holder at the rear of the lens)
Kodak makes a wide range of gels, mostly for color correction, not really needed for a digital camera. NDs are the ones you’ll probably want to use, but they also have them for IR.Thanks. What kind of useful filter would fit here? Just ND?
If I (USA) was to buy this, there would be an additional 9% state/local sales tax added at the time of purchase. (Sales tax varies by state.)That's 500+ € more than the US price while both currencies are roughly "worth" the same right now
Doesn’t the 28-70 get 7 stops just from IBIS? I suspect the image circle on the 10-20mm is relatively small compared to the other lenses.If anyone is interested, this lens was included in a patent that published in Jan 2023.
Regarding IS, the RF 10-20mm delivers 6 stops with cooperative control and 5 stops on its own. That would be useful with the R8 and other bodies that lack IBIS. Given the short focal length, IBIS alone would be very effective – I find that to be the case with my EF 11-24/4 on my R3.
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Yes and agreed.Doesn’t the 28-70 get 7 stops just from IBIS? I suspect the image circle on the 10-20mm is relatively small compared to the other lenses.
Takes practice. For me, the key is having something in the foreground. Many of the shots I've liked at 11mm (on FF) are standing next to something vertical and looking up. I made that point with images in another thread recently, so I won't repost them here. For landscapes at 10-11mm, there needs to be something interesting at your feet (no, the legs of your tripod are not interesting, ).I wish I could get to grips with ultrawide angle composition, but I never have. I guess it stops me coveting this lens though
Yeah, that's usually true. I've experimented ever since iPhones included an ultrawide, but more often than not, I just prefer the look of a longer focal length; partly it's that I'm rarely in picturesque-enough settings, but also I think I personally prefer the lack of obvious distortion with a narrower FOV (which probably explains why the times I do like a wider shot are most often eg skies or treescapes where it's less apparent); I've had the RF 16mm for like a year but hardly ever feel like using it. Maybe a zoom would encourage more creativity though.Takes practice. For me, the key is having something in the foreground. Many of the shots I've liked at 11mm (on FF) are standing next to something vertical and looking up. I made that point with images in another thread recently, so I won't repost them here. For landscapes at 10-11mm, there needs to be something interesting at your feet (no, the legs of your tripod are not interesting, ).
Using a CPL on a ultra wide lens is in most cases not the best of all ideas.Am I correct that if you want to use a CPL with this lens, then you buy filter cartridges that plug in at the mount end of the lens? I think Canon make these, but are there also 3rd-party filters that fit in these cartridge slots? Any information would be helpful + experience with the Canon CPLs.
Depends on why you want to use it. Blue skies will be uneven, yes. But a CPL has other uses, e.g. cutting reflections from water or glass, and those work well on UWA lenses (the reflected light is already partially polarized). Also worth noting that even for landscapes there are post-processing techniques to even out the 'polarizer sky' while maintaining the improvement in contrast and saturation of the ground features that the CPL delivers.Using a CPL on a ultra wide lens is in most cases not the best of all ideas.
I often use my 14-35mm for urban travel. Although I don't have an exact statistic (only made one for the 2019 New Zealand trip) most shots with my wide-angle lenses are between 14-20/22mm and then again a lot of pics at 35mm. I tend to pair the 14-35mm with the 70-200mm for urban city travels. So swapping the 14-35mm for a 10-20mm would make me bring three lenses and add weight.My main use for the 14-35/4 is urban travel shooting, and IMO it’s a great lens for that. When I look at my usage data with the 14-35/4, 52% of my shots are between 14-20mm and 48% are between 21-35mm.
For me, the 10-20/4 would be much more of a niche lens for when I need as wide as possible…and for that, I already have the EF 11-24/4. The weight of the 10-20/4 (barely more than the 14-35/4 !!!) is a very nice feature, and that makes the lens somewhat tempting as I might be inclined to bring it on trips where I would not take the massive EF 11-24/4. OTOH, the easy use of filters is an advantage of the adapted EF lens.
Definitely not a preorder for me. Maybe at some point. It will mainly depend on what sacrifices (if any) Canon to make on IQ to bring the weight and size down. The MTFs of the 11-24 are only very slightly better, which bodes well for the 10-20.
I got slightly better at it after using the R5+16mm as the only lens on a family vacation. But like you, the 16mm isn't among my first picks when choosing a lens.Yeah, that's usually true. I've experimented ever since iPhones included an ultrawide, but more often than not, I just prefer the look of a longer focal length; partly it's that I'm rarely in picturesque-enough settings, but also I think I personally prefer the lack of obvious distortion with a narrower FOV (which probably explains why the times I do like a wider shot are most often eg skies or treescapes where it's less apparent); I've had the RF 16mm for like a year but hardly ever feel like using it. Maybe a zoom would encourage more creativity though.
I use PhotoStatistica (Mac), and I find that being able to check my shooting history helps me make informed buying decisions. For example, when the EF 16-35/4L IS came out, it was a choice between the f/2.8 aperture on the lens I had and IS on the new one. I looked ay my usage data for the 16-35/2.8L II, and only 1% of my shots were wider than f/4...made it an easy decision to swap them out.Although I don't have an exact statistic (only made one for the 2019 New Zealand trip)
Yes, that makes combinations of those lenses great for travel!Furthermore, I absolutely love the fact the 14-35mm takes front filters and shares the 77mm thread with the 24-105mm, 70-200mm and 100-500mm.