We must work in two entirely different industries. Nothing is ever below 300DPI unless a customer brings in a cell phone image, which are inherently 72DPI.
How do cell phone images have inherent DPI?
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We must work in two entirely different industries. Nothing is ever below 300DPI unless a customer brings in a cell phone image, which are inherently 72DPI.
In terms of an 80mp sensor with a 20mp 'color depth' mode I doubt there would be any gain after scaling the normal 80mp version down to 20mp and comparing with the color depth 20mp one.
And if they are true to form, they will cripple it with a low fps rate.
Take a picture with your phone. The output, whether RAW or JPG will be 72DPI by whatever resolution the sensor is. My current phone will spit out a 72dpi image at somewhere around 57in x 43in. You can change the DPI to whatever you want after the fact, but your phone's output will be 72DPI. Of the hundreds of Cell phone images I've handled from customers, they're always at 72DPI X whatever the output of the sensor is. Usually something rather large. Typically, I reduce the images to from my phone down 15 x 12 @300DPI. It doesn't really make too much of a difference in print, but not having a dimensionally massive file to deal with is easier. Most customers don't go beyond 8"x10" Though, I did do a 7ft. Gallery canvas wrap from an iPhone 4 (original iPhone 4) panorama image that came out looking pretty good. But that just comes down to how Apple handled Panorama mode photos compared to Android at the time (now they both just make one large image)How do cell phone images have inherent DPI?
Take a picture with your phone. The output, whether RAW or JPG will be 72DPI by whatever resolution the sensor is. My current phone will spit out a 72dpi image at somewhere around 57in x 43in. You can change the DPI to whatever you want after the fact, but your phone's output will be 72DPI.
Though, I did do a 7ft. Gallery canvas wrap from an iPhone 4 (original iPhone 4) panorama image that came out looking pretty good. But that just comes down to how Apple handled Panorama mode photos compared to Android at the time (now they both just make one large image)
Considering how terrible most smartphone cameras handle dynamic range, you're still better off with your DSLR. The 7ft print looked good enough for the couple who wanted it, but the highlights were blown out. The shadowy rocks and water looked okay for what they were. Insofar as a quality print, it works out just fine for your average consumer. But it wouldn't pass muster from your average photographer. On a personal level, the second rear camera on my LG G6 uses a lens comparable to about 14mm or wider. I often use it to capture a single take of a wide landscape that I'd need to take multiple photos to get the same field of view.OK, it's a value the smartphone writes there, which doesn't prevent you from printing the image in whatever DPI you want.
DPI will affect your print output. If you change your DPI, but don't adjust your image size in accordance, you'll start to lose quality of the print. If I make a 16x20 print from a 72DPI image that was sized at 8x10, you'll have some pretty bad image degradation. That wouldn't happen if you had an 8x10 at 300DPI.
Smartphone cameras have progressed farther than I thought. I have a rather new Samsung Galaxy, but didn't think it could pull that, and would have gone straight to my DSLR.
The 7D Mk. III ... 90D.
Now 7D Mk III same as 90D. Not exist.
Now 7D Mk III same as 90D. Not exist.
That's because your view of the world is biased.
Putting the 80D sensor (or better) into the 7DMK3 is not combining the two bodies into one, it is 7Dmk3 and 90D different bodies. On my size, having a 24MP sensor in the 7D while increase frame rate, dynamic range and reduce noise is enough to convince me to get the new 7D. The race for "how many MP I have" is not as important for, for most works, you don't need that much MP anyway.7d speed, build quality and focus system with everything else from an 80d should do it! To be honest an 80d sensor in a 7d2 would do me fine.
Putting the 80D sensor (or better) into the 7DMK3 is not combining the two bodies into one, it is 7Dmk3 and 90D different bodies. On my size, having a 24MP sensor in the 7D while increase frame rate, dynamic range and reduce noise is enough to convince me to get the new 7D. The race for "how many MP I have" is not as important for, for most works, you don't need that much MP anyway.
7d speed, build quality and focus system with everything else from an 80d should do it! To be honest an 80d sensor in a 7d2 would do me fine.
Is it your contention that your view is unbiased?
I missed the touchscreen when I upgraded from the 70D to the 7D Mk. II. I appreciated getting it back when I upgraded to the 5D Mk. IV, but I still prefer the 7D Mk. II thumb switch for toggling between AF area modes over the 5D dual button dance. As such, I would hope that a 7D Mk. III would retain the thumb switch but add a touch screen.
PS - It also wouldn't bother me if it picked up the live-view focus stacking trick from the RP. Kind of a shame that they have not yet retrofit that to the R with a firmware upgrade.