Canon Adds EOS R50 and EOS R8 to the Growing EOS R Mirrorless Camera System

[tron]

If I remember correctly, R5 requires 9V (18W) PD when charging and 20V (45W) PD for powering while turned on.

45Watts are mentioned but also, I remember reading a 9V 3A requirement. Anyway, whatever combination of these is true I have never seen power banks that support this combination and are less than 45W though so practically 45W are necessary for powering while turned ON. When OFF I can charge it with a 18W power bank indeed. Not bad.

 

[entoman]

There are multiple cases when I need to use joystick on my R5 instead of "focus and recompose", such as:
1. The AF is not sticky enough (or I am too lazy to configure the AF mode for the subject type).
2. I know where the subject will appear, but I won't be fast enough to recompose.
3. I don't want the subject to see me moving.

I also think that IS works better when you don't need to recompose, but that might be subjective.

Personally, I find that using the joystick (or touch screen AF) is a lot slower than focus/recompose, especially if the subject is moving, or is likely to move. I'm happy if your technique works for you. But just a couple of suggestions which I hope are helpful:

In cases 1 & 2, why don't you assign a button to switch instantly to your desired settings?

Or, if you know in advance what you are going to shoot, why not assign all the appropriate settings to a custom mode?

Whatever subject matter you shoot, it should be easy to setup a default group of settings, and assign one or more buttons to instantly switch to alternative settings. e.g. many wildlife photographers assign a button to switch between centre spot (for focus/recompose) and animal-eye AF.

 

[koenkooi]

Personally, I find that using the joystick (or touch screen AF) is a lot slower than focus/recompose, especially if the subject is moving, or is likely to move. I'm happy if your technique works for you. But just a couple of suggestions which I hope are helpful:

In cases 1 & 2, why don't you assign a button to switch instantly to your desired settings?

Or, if you know in advance what you are going to shoot, why not assign all the appropriate settings to a custom mode?

Whatever subject matter you shoot, it should be easy to setup a default group of settings, and assign one or more buttons to instantly switch to alternative settings. e.g. many wildlife photographers assign a button to switch between centre spot (for focus/recompose) and animal-eye AF.

That assumes subject tracking works, which is not a given when working at MFD with insects. Using the joystick or touchscreen to move the AF point and then using AF-ON to engage spot AF is what works best for me in those cases.

 

[Loswr]

That assumes subject tracking works, which is not a given when working at MFD with insects. Using the joystick or touchscreen to move the AF point and then using AF-ON to engage spot AF is what works best for me in those cases.

And that is why I love the R3’s Smart Controller. The touchpad used for AF point selection is also the AF-ON button. Thumb to slide-and-push, done.

 

[photographer]

Nikon does not really have the camera selection.

I think the NIKON Z7 II is a decent camera, but it depends on what you're shooting. I don't want to start a Canon vs Nikon debate here. In the end, we can take it that Nikon is ONLY 34 years behind Canon when it comes to the 85 1.2.

 

[AlanF]

I think the NIKON Z7 II is a decent camera, but it depends on what you're shooting. I don't want to start a Canon vs Nikon debate here. In the end, we can take it that Nikon is ONLY 34 years behind Canon when it comes to the 85 1.2.

The Nikon 7II is a very good camera indeed for static shots but its AF is not good for action. The consensus is for bird photographers etc to stick with the D850, which has just as good IQ but much better AF. The only Nikon mirrorless that is up there with AF to match Sony and the new generation of Canons is the Z9.

 

[sanj]

Both the R10 and R50 are APS-C cameras and both the 24 f/1.8 and 24-50 are FF lenses.

In case one of you meant the R8, that is a FF camera.

Yes, I meant R8.

 

[davidespinosa]

@sanj

Here's a comparison of the R50 and R10 from Canon Europe:

https://www.canon-europe.com/get-inspired/tips-and-techniques/eos-r50-vs-eos-r10/

OTOH, if you consider the R8, then the relevant comparison is between the 24mm lenses:

24mm f/1.8
US $550
270 grams

24-50mm f/4.5-6.3
US $300
210 grams

 

[AlanF]

@sanj

Here's a comparison of the R50 and R10 from Canon Europe:

https://www.canon-europe.com/get-inspired/tips-and-techniques/eos-r50-vs-eos-r10/

OTOH, if you consider the R8, then the relevant comparison is between the 24mm lenses:

24mm f/1.8
US $550
270 grams

24-50mm f/4.5-6.3
US $300
210 grams

"The technical innovations continued with the launch of the Canon EOS R50, which features the same great image quality and power as the EOS R10 but in an even more compact and simple body for creators who want a step up from their smartphones to elevate their YouTube tutorials or dance videos on TikTok."

There's the market for you.

 

[davidespinosa]

There's the market for you.

Exactly !
I figure people on CR would generally prefer the R10 over the R50, because the R10 is more controllable.

 

[Sporgon]

Exactly !
I figure people on CR would generally prefer the R10 over the R50, because the R10 is more controllable.

I think you mean people on CR would generally prefer the R1 over the R50

 

[sanj]

@sanj

Here's a comparison of the R50 and R10 from Canon Europe:

https://www.canon-europe.com/get-inspired/tips-and-techniques/eos-r50-vs-eos-r10/

OTOH, if you consider the R8, then the relevant comparison is between the 24mm lenses:

24mm f/1.8
US $550
270 grams

24-50mm f/4.5-6.3
US $300
210 grams

Thank you MUCH

 

[Deepboy]

By reading you, I guess you didn't like the "Touch and Drag AF" function of the M6 Mark II. To my sense it's as fast and efficient as a joystick, but to each his own, of course.

No, I didn't as I don't use touch screens on cameras; the M6II was the only camera (apart from GoPro, and mobile phone of course, for obvious reasons) where I had to leave the touch enabled and used it. Otherwise, touch screen is the first function I entirely disable in a new camera when setting it up, it's just a thing that for me is a total no-go.

I have the function to enable the touch, in the fast menu, (the green menu, I don't know the exact name of it) only on the R10 for a simple reason, the aperture control: on my R10 the aperture is on the control ring on the RF lenses, or on the RF-EF adapter, then the iso and the shutter are the same way I have them on R6 (front dial shutter, top dial iso, while aperture on R6 is carried on by the back dial, that R10 doensn't have).

I have two RF-EF adapters, but just one with the control ring, that I use on R10 while the std one is for the R6; but if I find myself in a wedding with inadvertently the std adapter on the R10, and I MUST take the picture immediately because something happens, but also need to change aperture, and have no time to switch adapter/lens, I have no way of fast changing aperture.
Not in the menu, not on other other dials without reconfiguring them and that costs time, not even pressing the ISO button (that can NOT be reconfigured to change aperture, as the iso are already on the top dial; in fact my ISO button is configured to open white balance menu), there's no single button on R10 that can be configured to change aperture value, you can only assign it to a dial!
And so in emergency the only way to change that aperture fast enough is enabling the touch screen from the green menu, which pops up immediately when I press the menu button, and it's the first voice on top of the menu; and then I have the aperture control on the screen.
But it's just a measure of emergency; other then that, there's no use for a touch screen in my camera handling workflow.

 

[koenkooi]

Exactly !
I figure people on CR would generally prefer the R10 over the R50, because the R10 is more controllable.

For me, the R10 was too expensive for what it is. Or to put it differently, the price difference between the R7 and R10 is too small for difference in features. The R50 comes a lot closer to an acceptable (again: for me) price/feature ratio.
But the R50 is now the same price as an M6II, which has a lot more features that I want, for example a remote control port. And no EVF

But I loathed the EVF in my M50, so an R50 is a no-go for me. And it's still quite a bit too big for a small camera. Since I did like the EVF in my RP, the R8 is becoming a very attractive camera to function as a second, smaller body to my R5. It might even tempt me into selling my R5, but that decision requires side-by-side shooting during macro season, not forum dwelling during the current armchair season

 

[entoman]

That assumes subject tracking works, which is not a given when working at MFD with insects. Using the joystick or touchscreen to move the AF point and then using AF-ON to engage spot AF is what works best for me in those cases.

I do know a few people who use AF for "near macro", but personally I don't use subject tracking for insects. In fact don't normally use AF for insects, spiders or other small creatures. I set the reproduction scale/focus manually, and then edge forwards until the insect is sharp. This is a (very tiny!) unidentified jumping spider photographed recently in Papua. I had time to take 6 photos of it, before it jumped! 2 were sharp, 2 were slightly soft, and 2 were completely out of focus because the breeze suddenly moved the leaf just as I pressed the shutter (which is set to fire on subject priority).

RF100mm macro, 1/500 @ F8, ISO 1600, handheld

 

[koenkooi]

I do know a few people who use AF for "near macro", with variable results, but personally I wouldn't use subject tracking for insects. In fact wouldn't normally use AF for insects, spiders or other small creatures. I set the reproduction scale/focus manually, and then edge forwards until the insect is sharp. That's how most macro photographers work. This is a (very tiny!) unidentified jumping spider photographed recently in Papua. I had time to take 6 photos of it, before it jumped! 2 were razor sharp, 2 were slightly soft, and 2 were completely out of focus because the breeze suddenly moved the leaf just as I pressed the shutter (which is set to fire on subject priority).

The 'dragonfly on tall reed in the wind' is the use case I use AF for, for jumping spiders I use the MP-E65, which doesn't have a focus ring

 

[Loswr]

...I use the MP-E65, which doesn't have a focus ring

Sure it does. It just doesn't have a zoom ring.

 

[entoman]

The 'dragonfly on tall reed in the wind' is the use case I use AF for, for jumping spiders I use the MP-E65, which doesn't have a focus ring

I have used AF for insects on occasions, e.g. butterflies in flight, but in-flight butterflies change their outline or "shape" as they flap their wings, which makes it very challenging for subject recognition algorithms. AF works much better with dragonflies, as they hover and their shape is more easily recognised and tracked by the camera. Some of my best butterfly in flight shots were actually taken on an old Canon 6D, which had notoriously poor AF, so the hit rate was pretty low!

 

[entoman]

Sure it does. It just doesn't have a zoom ring.

Yes, from my recollection the MP-E65 has a "focus ring", but it is marked with reproduction scales rather than distances. It operates like most old lenses, by moving the elements further from the focal plane as the distance to the subject decreases. I much prefer more modern lenses which have internal focusing.

 

[Loswr]

Yes, from my recollection the MP-E65 has a "focus ring", but it is marked with reproduction scales rather than distances. It operates like most old lenses, by moving the elements further from the focal plane as the distance to the subject decreases. I much prefer more modern lenses which have internal focusing.

Fundamentally, the MP-E 65 is a bellows lens in a 'traditional' lens barrel housing.