DPreview First impression review 5D IV

Jan 29, 2011
10,673
6,120
GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

If your flash is a Canon flash (or one of several others that do ETTL) even off camera there is no metering needed, just put your camera in Av mode and select the aperture you want. The camera will use the shutter speed to create a background exposure, and will use the flash power and aperture to give you a different subject exposure. If you want the background lighter or darker use exposure compensation, if you want the subject lighter or darker use flash exposure compensation.

When you are using ETTL the camera makes two meter readings, one for the background and one for the subject via a preflash.

No meter readings, no calculations. Take picture, adjust EC for background and/or FEC for subject if desired, done.

Or, if you want more control or compensation over three stops or are using non ETTL lights go to camera manual mode. Turn flash off and set the aperture you want, take an exposure and get the background where you want it by adjusting shutter speed. Turn flash on, get subject exposure where you want it via flash power. As the scene gets darker the background exposure will too, to adjust for this just lengthen your shutter speed everything else stays the same.

None of this is difficult or convoluted and takes a few seconds to get set up including the first shot. Most any photographer above strobist level can do this effortlessly, indeed the most time consuming part is getting the model to do what you want!
 
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Jack Douglas

CR for the Humour
Apr 10, 2013
6,980
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Alberta, Canada
GMC, that is a very rational response to Rishi and it's pointed me to some good reference material. Thanks.

Rishi, whether you wish to be public about it is you business but I've drawn the conclusion as always, that there are two sides to every argument. My guess is that you will rethink your approach to this topic in the future and probably do better, and that's really what matters.

Jack
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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Jack Douglas said:
Hey Scott, this is very interesting to me - I had no idea. I'll be trying this out as you describe in the situation where I have late day winter setting sun and birds are visiting my set-up by my observatory. One issue, they often take exception to pre-flash - startled .

Jack

I appreciate not everybody knows this kind of stuff, but I believe a tester offering a very widely publicised opinion should, especially when they are drawing incorrect and damning conclusions that stem from their personal lack of handing skills.

Pre flash will always fire in ETTL. In manual it never will, for the birds/wildlife that are sensitive to preflash manual is the only way to go. Even if you can't adjust the flash power manually due to access issues, either because they are too remote or on a high boom you can effectively adjust flash power via aperture or iso, if you make corresponding changes to shutter speed then you retain control over both subject and background exposures from the camera even without remote control of flash power.

I believe anybody testing cameras should not only know this stuff but be able to apply it to every camera they test. Bench metrics are one thing, and of course delivering those kinds of results takes a certain skill set, but being able to do that does not qualify you to do authoritative hands on testing in the real world, it just doesn't.
 
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Jul 21, 2010
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GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Rational? I don't think you are qualified to make that judgement. Someone with an opinion which is way higher than his abilities would suggest, is hardly in any place to consider anyone as rational or irrational. You say that you don't like to be name called (troll and coward) and yet you make statements that claim only the rational would agree with your line of thinking. Yet, many here who are rational don't agree with your line of thinking. To suggest otherwise is a self inflating, circular and egocentric argument.

Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

Rishi argued that he simply didn't have time to properly choose the exposure, what with all the setting up lights, chatting up the model, and so forth. Of course, there's a shot of the same model in the same field taken 45 minutes earlier, but, you know, he just didn't have time.

Then again, any competent photographer would understand the exposure challenge of that shot, and would likely consider taking several shots to bracket the exposure. Since models are generally used to holding a pose through a few shots, it should have been easy. But I guess he didn't have time for that, either. Probably in too much of a hurry to cash the check from Nikon.....
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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GMCPhotographics said:
While I agree about DPR's work on ISO invariance. I cannot agree with your muddled use of the subject of DR. You are confusing a camera's range of DR with it's ability to pull iso exposure from shadows in a RAW editor. The two subjects are completely different. DR is defined as the usable exposure range from complete black to complete light. On a 12 bit camera file, that's a range of 0 to 4096, or 12 stops. Out of that 12 stops, 8 are generally usable.
Here's is one of my many DR references:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm

It depends entirely on your definition of DR. If you are Canon you measure it as per international standards such that when Signal to Noise Ratio = 0 that is the baseline, and is what you describe in your 0-4096 range scenario.

However if you read your own linked article you will see that is not how most people quantify or measure DR from camera sensors.

"Therefore, dynamic range generally increases for lower ISO speeds and cameras with less measurement noise."


All electronics have a noise floor, that is at some point above SNR 0 the noise is so bad you can't actually discern the signal. This is why Canon can justifiably claim 15 stops of DR for the C300 MkII yet everybody else, equally justifiably, saying it has 13. If you measure like Canon you need an oscilloscope, if you measure like everybody else you can use your eyes, in a visual medium the eye test is more representative of usability.

So in effect the range from light to dark is the same across any camera with the same bit depth, however the usable range, the number of gradations you can see within that range is different due to the noise levels at any single SNR.

The subjective part is at what point do you personally consider the SNR to cross to the point of unusable? This is different for each person and any specific output size. Because of this testers use a 'standard', a set SNR% value that they apply across their testing. Good sites will give you several different values.

The upshot of all this is that less noise in the shadows is/does equal more dynamic range. In that it is usable output from your sensor and does allow you to display more gradations.
 
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privatebydesign said:
GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

If your flash is a Canon flash (or one of several others that do ETTL) even off camera there is no metering needed, just put your camera in Av mode and select the aperture you want. The camera will use the shutter speed to create a background exposure, and will use the flash power and aperture to give you a different subject exposure. If you want the background lighter or darker use exposure compensation, if you want the subject lighter or darker use flash exposure compensation.

When you are using ETTL the camera makes two meter readings, one for the background and one for the subject via a preflash.

No meter readings, no calculations. Take picture, adjust EC for background and/or FEC for subject if desired, done.

Or, if you want more control or compensation over three stops or are using non ETTL lights go to camera manual mode. Turn flash off and set the aperture you want, take an exposure and get the background where you want it by adjusting shutter speed. Turn flash on, get subject exposure where you want it via flash power. As the scene gets darker the background exposure will too, to adjust for this just lengthen your shutter speed everything else stays the same.

None of this is difficult or convoluted and takes a few seconds to get set up including the first shot. Most any photographer above strobist level can do this effortlessly, indeed the most time consuming part is getting the model to do what you want!

This is fascinating and very clear, thanks for posting! I've never done this sort of work, so it's an eye opener.
 
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Jack Douglas

CR for the Humour
Apr 10, 2013
6,980
2,602
Alberta, Canada
This is fascinating and (not exactly) very clear, thanks for posting! I've never done this sort of work, so it's an eye opener. ;) Actually it is becoming much more clear. Goes to show that all kinds of interactions can be educational. I perfectly understand signal getting lost in noise and signal getting clipped and what you have to work with is in between. :) Much appreciated.

Jack
 
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Jun 12, 2015
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GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.



The issue isn't in the file itself but the choice to even use that file to highlight a failed reasoning to start with.

There's so much text in the discussions here, that the main issue with the not provided raw file can be missed. GMCPhotografics hit the nail on the head with the quoted text above.

What I and many CR members are upset about is that what seems to be an unnecessary underexposed file is used to demonstrate lack of DR in the 5Ds, making the 5Ds looking much worse than it really is. Rishi not providing the raw file indicates that CR members suspicion is correct, and that Rishi is hiding it from us - probably because providing it to us will generate strong arguments to those claiming DPR has an unfavorable bias against Canon.

I'm sure Rishi won't give us the raw file, but then again, Rishi has himself to blame for the critics he suffer here on CR.
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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scyrene said:
privatebydesign said:
GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

If your flash is a Canon flash (or one of several others that do ETTL) even off camera there is no metering needed, just put your camera in Av mode and select the aperture you want. The camera will use the shutter speed to create a background exposure, and will use the flash power and aperture to give you a different subject exposure. If you want the background lighter or darker use exposure compensation, if you want the subject lighter or darker use flash exposure compensation.

When you are using ETTL the camera makes two meter readings, one for the background and one for the subject via a preflash.

No meter readings, no calculations. Take picture, adjust EC for background and/or FEC for subject if desired, done.

Or, if you want more control or compensation over three stops or are using non ETTL lights go to camera manual mode. Turn flash off and set the aperture you want, take an exposure and get the background where you want it by adjusting shutter speed. Turn flash on, get subject exposure where you want it via flash power. As the scene gets darker the background exposure will too, to adjust for this just lengthen your shutter speed everything else stays the same.

None of this is difficult or convoluted and takes a few seconds to get set up including the first shot. Most any photographer above strobist level can do this effortlessly, indeed the most time consuming part is getting the model to do what you want!

This is fascinating and very clear, thanks for posting! I've never done this sort of work, so it's an eye opener.

All these are 'twin exposure' images, that is there is a deliberately selected ambient exposure and a different flash exposure. The technique has a very wide variety of uses and can be used in any level of ambient light from high noon to midnight.

My signature line says it all :)
 

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privatebydesign said:
scyrene said:
privatebydesign said:
GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

If your flash is a Canon flash (or one of several others that do ETTL) even off camera there is no metering needed, just put your camera in Av mode and select the aperture you want. The camera will use the shutter speed to create a background exposure, and will use the flash power and aperture to give you a different subject exposure. If you want the background lighter or darker use exposure compensation, if you want the subject lighter or darker use flash exposure compensation.

When you are using ETTL the camera makes two meter readings, one for the background and one for the subject via a preflash.

No meter readings, no calculations. Take picture, adjust EC for background and/or FEC for subject if desired, done.

Or, if you want more control or compensation over three stops or are using non ETTL lights go to camera manual mode. Turn flash off and set the aperture you want, take an exposure and get the background where you want it by adjusting shutter speed. Turn flash on, get subject exposure where you want it via flash power. As the scene gets darker the background exposure will too, to adjust for this just lengthen your shutter speed everything else stays the same.

None of this is difficult or convoluted and takes a few seconds to get set up including the first shot. Most any photographer above strobist level can do this effortlessly, indeed the most time consuming part is getting the model to do what you want!

This is fascinating and very clear, thanks for posting! I've never done this sort of work, so it's an eye opener.

All these are 'twin exposure' images, that is there is a deliberately selected ambient exposure and a different flash exposure. The technique has a very wide variety of uses and can be used in any level of ambient light from high noon to midnight.

My signature line says it all :)

See, if you were a Nikon or Sony user, you'd have brightened those shadows by another three stops at least ;)

(These show precisely that that kind of shot is fine on Canon sensors, so I dunno why Rishi has been making out that it's a really tricky case; I have to say you've demonstrated your point well).
 
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GMCPhotographics said:
rishi_sanyal said:
So that the rest of the readers on here - the rational ones - might appreciate how ridiculous of an assertion it is to claim a photographer should be able to perfectly ETTR a Raw within less than 2/3 EV error in the field. Every. Time. No matter how complex the shoot.

I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

Rational? I don't think you are qualified to make that judgement. Someone with an opinion which is way higher than his abilities would suggest, is hardly in any place to consider anyone as rational or irrational. You say that you don't like to be name called (troll and coward) and yet you make statements that claim only the rational would agree with your line of thinking. Yet, many here who are rational don't agree with your line of thinking. To suggest otherwise is a self inflating, circular and egocentric argument.

Actually, to suggest that the very few who actually had an issue with my 5DS example are 'rationally' approaching this is what is self-inflating, circular, and egocentric. It's pretty much just a couple of CR people (privatebydesign & Sporgon) who are trying to make an issue out of nothing. Please don't artificially inflate the importance of one or two people, or conflate their opinion with 'rational' thought.

GMCPhotographics said:
Well, CanonFanBoy managed to do that just fine...how hard can it be? Meter for the background...meter for the subject...dial in the exposure difference...adjust an re-shoot if necessary. Assuming...one is a Canon "get it right in camera" kind of guy and not a Nikon "bodge it and hope the shadows are pull able later" kind of guy.
Here's a link to CanonFanBoy's image. He seems to have nailed the rising sun exposure and the model's flash exposure correctly :
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=27692.105

No need for wide DR here...he got the exposure right, apparently according to his post....it wasn't that hard. Two meterings and a bit of compensation math. I guess that is what I would call rational...the application of science, application of photographic education and a dollop of talent.

Where is the evidence he exposed his highlights within 1/3 EV of clipping in Raw?

? Where did he actually state the Raw R,G,B values that indicate he 'nailed' his exposure (highlights within 1/3 EV of clipping)?

Why do you think his exposure is any better than mine?

Where's his 100% crop?

Why do you think his scene even has as much DR as mine (it doesn't)?

In case you're wondering about that last point: he has the brightest portion of the sunset gradient (conveniently) occluded by the model's head. So, again, what makes you think his example and mine are even comparable?

GMCPhotographics said:
So what is my point here? Your original photo, although nice was poorly executed and failed to nail the correct exposure of the background.

What was the 'correct' exposure of the background, considering that even slight increases in exposure would've clipped my skies?

Regardless, you hit on one of my original points: a camera with lower DR means that if the photographer can't nail the exposure perfectly by getting the highlights exactly as close to clipping as possible, then he/she may suffer extra shadow noise in cameras that have elevated read noise (lower DR).

But that's my point: "nailing" it is impossible because you literally don't have the tools to 'nail' it. You just don't. No camera today provides the tools to let you know when your Raw channels are close to clipping.

For all intents and purposes, I nailed my exposure, because the camera preview already said I clipped my skies. In fact, according to my camera, I over-exposed my file.

'Poorly executed'? Says who? In the field my the camera indicated the skies were clipped - in other words, my camera thought I over-exposed! Who said I didn't 'nail' my exposure?? I was within 2/3 EV of having my red/green channels clipped in the Raw file, while the JPEG preview said I'd already clipped. Who are you to say I didn't 'nail' my exposure? Within 2/3 EV of nailing my exposure is pretty darn close, closer than you could expect of any actual working photographer, but of course not close enough for some forum armchair critic far removed from the realities of actual photography.

Not to mention: you think 2/3 EV higher ISO would've suddenly completely removed all the effects of read noise/banding?

To conclude, though: if you think pro photographers nail their Raw files such that their Raw R,G,B channels in highlights are no more than 10,986 in the Raw file (2^14 - 2,048 Canon offset), please refer me to them. I'd like to hire them in the future, and also check to make sure they're not robots.

GMCPhotographics said:
Indicating that your fading background light was poorly considered and that you used a Shadow pull to save your near-failed photo. It's a poor example of photographic situation that needed a higher DR than the camera was able to offer because you had complete control over the background and the subject light exposures. A better choice is where the subject had too much contrast in a scene to photograph normally (such as sunlight though a semi silhouetted tree) than a photo that uses Shadow pull to hide the mistakes made by the photographer.

Like a couple others here that I accused of throwing red herrings, you also throw one, and have completely missed the point of the example entirely.

'You had complete control over the background and the subject light exposures' --> Yes, that's right, which has nothing to do with anything.

The model's exposure (via flash) has nothing to do with what we're discussing.

I said the background, not the background + model, has too much scene dynamic range for this camera, which is why even when I exposed the sky to be as close to clipping as I thought I could reasonably get it without sacrificing the tones in the sky, the foreground (the grass, NOT the model) could not be brightened much without introducing noise. I didn't want a black foreground - I wanted some detail in the grass, because that's natural.

Perhaps try and understand what's being discussed before so elaborately and passionately commenting on it.

GMCPhotographics said:
A raw file was requested to prove this point. The issue isn't in the file itself but the choice to even use that file to highlight a failed reasoning to start with. The idea that a Canon 5D4 is a worse camera than a Nikon D810 because it can't cover the photographer's ass so well when he/she screws up is hardly the fault of the camera. It's blame shifting the issue from the photographer to the camera.

Your argument makes no sense and presupposes the 5DS (not the 5D4, btw, but who cares about details anyway?) has enough DR to handle every scene ever possible in the world. Which, frankly, is an unrealistic [euphemism] assertion.

Also, the 5D4 (or any Canon camera) was never claimed to be 'a worse camera than a Nikon D810'. Why do you make up false accusations?

GMCPhotographics said:
I could counter this line of thought quite easily by pointing out that in exotic cars, the more exotic they are, the more critical they are of your driving skills and less forgiving of driver mistakes. I believe the same is true of cameras...a professional tool would expect you to have a professional level of metering mastery and of the cameras inherent DR, which I believe is the same for both cameras? Around 12 stops.

The inherent DR is the same for both cameras? You can believe all you want, but then there's reality.

GMCPhotographics said:
While I agree about DPR's work on ISO invariance. I cannot agree with your muddled use of the subject of DR.

Considering I introduced the concept of ISO invariance at DPR and developed the test for it, you may wish to reconsider your opinion of what's 'muddled' and who's 'qualified' or not here (as you've accused me of not being 'qualified' to have these discussions).

GMCPhotographics said:
You are confusing a camera's range of DR with it's ability to pull iso exposure from shadows in a RAW editor. The two subjects are completely different.
...
The only way to truly capture a wide DR, isn't to pull the dark shadows using iso variance...but to shoot at different exposures and combine them in Post production using HDR software. This will produce a clean file with high dynamic range and little to no iso noise.

You apparently don't understand camera dynamic range, which explains your confusion over this entire discussion, but of course doesn't explain your erroneous claims that it is I who is not 'qualified' to talk about this subject.

Camera (input) dynamic range is defined as [highest signal camera can record before clipping / lowest signal camera can record that is not swamped by noise], which usually translates to [full well capacity / read noise] if we're talking about engineering dynamic range. Since full-well capacity per unit area is generally similar for most cameras of equal sensor size (except for the Nikon D810 which has a higher one at ISO 64), differences tend to lie in read noise. Of course another way to capture wider DR is to combine multiple exposures, but that doesn't discount the fact that different cameras have different dynamic ranges to begin with.

If you'd like to understand these topics, though, feel free to chill out and ask some questions, or message me.
 
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Jack Douglas

CR for the Humour
Apr 10, 2013
6,980
2,602
Alberta, Canada
Hey Rishi, I think you are now beating the stick that was used to beat the dead horse. I'd just let it go.

BTW, I read through the 5D4 review and I think there are some subtle improvements (in the way the review is worded, that is) so even though the DR criticism may have been unfair (I see it as overly harsh), my assessment is that the various comments have had a positive effect.

That's my opinion from a literary viewpoint. Who knows what others think.

Jack
 
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Jul 21, 2010
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rishi_sanyal said:
GMCPhotographics said:
So what is my point here? Your original photo, although nice was poorly executed and failed to nail the correct exposure of the background.

What was the 'correct' exposure of the background, considering that even slight increases in exposure would've clipped my skies?

For all intents and purposes, I nailed my exposure, because the camera preview already said I clipped my skies. In fact, according to my camera, I over-exposed my file.

'Poorly executed'? Says who? In the field my the camera indicated the skies were clipped - in other words, my camera thought I over-exposed! Who said I didn't 'nail' my exposure?? I was within 2/3 EV of having my red/green channels clipped in the Raw file, while the JPEG preview said I'd already clipped.

Well, that's the crux of the matter. We have your word that you exposed near clipping.


rishi_sanyal said:
I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

We've already learned from your past behavior that your word cannot necessarily be trusted – for example, your repeated, emphatic claims of being unbiased, as you were preparing a paid advertainment piece on behalf of Nikon. What providing the RAW file would do is substantiate your claim.
 
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rishi_sanyal said:
I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

From your training in science you should accept that original data must always be available for review, regardless of what reaction it provokes. To do otherwise invites legitimate concerns over intellectual honesty.
 
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Jul 21, 2010
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Orangutan said:
rishi_sanyal said:
I've seen what providing the Raws in the midst of heated discussions like this does. I've done it before. I've learned. Nothing to do with being a lying coward, and everything to do with someone who's learned from past behavior.

From your training in science you should accept that original data must always be available for review, regardless of what reaction it provokes. To do otherwise invites legitimate concerns over intellectual honesty.

Advertisers and entertainers are not held to the same standards of data disclosure...or ethics.
 
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Rishi, just couple of points, you might be aware of these facts but anyway:

1. you can perfectly nail your exposure if you used, say Seconic light meter calibrated to your camera. Ask Joe Brady - I am sure, that he will be happy to show you how.. in few words: create and load your camera profile to the light meter, find your camera cliping point ( say, +3.5EV up from mid grey for Sony sensor), expose for the highlight and set exposure around 2.5-3.0EV up from the metered value. as you want your brightest highlights be on the very right. if you are metering in reflected light, your metering will be for the mid grey point. hence the need to increase your exposure. I am sure that you are aware of all this.
2. exposure warning on your camera lcd comes up very early. not necessarily when you have clipped channels already. And not necessarily in all channels.
3. what you see on your camera lcd is a JPG with the style applied to it. it is very different to your RAW file.

Thank you.


rishi_sanyal said:
... But that's my point: "nailing" it is impossible because you literally don't have the tools to 'nail' it. You just don't. No camera today provides the tools to let you know when your Raw channels are close to clipping.

For all intents and purposes, I nailed my exposure, because the camera preview already said I clipped my skies. In fact, according to my camera, I over-exposed my file.
 
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Alex_M said:
Rishi, just couple of points, you might be aware of these facts but anyway:

1. you can perfectly nail your exposure if you used, say Seconic light meter calibrated to your camera. Ask Joe Brady - I am sure, that he will be happy to show you how.. in few words: create and load your camera profile to the light meter, find your camera cliping point ( say, +3.5EV up from mid grey for Sony sensor), expose for the highlight and set exposure around 2.5-3.0EV up from the metered value. as you want your brightest highlights be on the very right. if you are metering in reflected light, your metering will be for the mid grey point. hence the need to increase your exposure. I am sure that you are aware of all this.
2. exposure warning on your camera lcd comes up very early. not necessarily when you have clipped channels already. And not necessarily in all channels.
3. what you see on your camera lcd is a JPG with the style applied to it. it is very different to your RAW file.

Thank you.


rishi_sanyal said:
... But that's my point: "nailing" it is impossible because you literally don't have the tools to 'nail' it. You just don't. No camera today provides the tools to let you know when your Raw channels are close to clipping.

For all intents and purposes, I nailed my exposure, because the camera preview already said I clipped my skies. In fact, according to my camera, I over-exposed my file.

Quite so. I've learned not to trust the Canon image preview with regard to highlight clipping, and after a while it's possible to know how far you can push things without spoiling the raw file. Surely thisis common knowledge?
 
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