These Are Your Favorite EF Lenses

You are also implying that my opinion is based on test charts and the fact that test charts are not telling you the 100% truth about IQ somehow invalidates my whole statement. Both are BS.
The two lenses are so much worlds apart (not surprisingly as they have 20y! difference), you don't need test charts to know.
Sigma performing way better on a test chart is like 10% of the story.

Btw regarding test charts, you are all over the place.
First of all, test charts and bokeh? What? Of course they don't tell you anything about bokeh. Since when was the purpose of charts about bokeh? It's about sharpness, contrast, resolution, color rendering.

Sorry, I don't get it, what are you actually saying?
Are you trying to say, that my statement of the Sigma 135/1.8 being superior is false, and the Canon is rendering subjects sharper and has smoother foreground and background than the Sigma, despite such a destroying test result for example?

https://www.the-digital-picture.com...meraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

Is that what you want to say?

Well... I'm not the one posting links to B&W flat test charts in support of the statement, "...and has smoother foreground and background than the Sigma, despite such a destroying test result." :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: and, "It's about sharpness, contrast, resolution, color rendering." :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: Again, you can judge color rendering from a B&W test chart? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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I hope the lens arrives in excellent condition and that you get many great photos with it! I sure enjoy mine.
It came today, it was late. I'm really excited to try it! I did a little testing but it wasn't good (the tests) because I have to get my camera setup again. I've had a really hard time getting things how I want them, when switching from the Canon 5D Mark iii to the Canon R5 mark ii. Just a BIG switch and a bit overwhelming. I could probably put the lens on the 5D and take great images but there's definitely a huge learning curve for me, when using the R5. I'm going to be looking into some videos on the settings and maybe websites.

As far as the condition of the lens, it seems to be great! It's just the camera I need to figure out. I'm looking forward to figuring things out and getting some great shots. I bought the camera new but have hardly used it for a variety of reasons. The plan is to actually use it a lot more this year, there's so much I want to learn.
 
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I've had filters stuck many a times. Here is my technique of dealing with it. Find another cylindrical object with a similar diameter (another lens, a beer can, etc). Tape this object to the filter with electrical tape or duct tape. Then, twist. You can apply much more torque this way compared to trying to twist the filter on its own.
 
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This has been a fascinating side track on this thread. I love learning about other people’s experiences! Food for thought.

Honestly, I’m just worried about grit and moisture in the field and mostly that’s why I use non-artistic filters. (I also use square filters when in zen mode.) Grit against the lens, or grit falling into the “gears”. The filter is such a simple fix for 99% of such trouble where lenses accept them. It’s not meant to withstand an ill placed dump truck in motion.

Just this weekend I went knee deep into unexpectedly loose river sand and sent gunk flying. I’m happy to report my 16-35’s front element remained grit free after a quick swish of the front with filter in the river. 😜 (My boot, however, most certainly was not grit free! Gah.)

Separately, I 100% agree there’s more to life than a chart sharp lens. Unless you need a chart sharp lens. I love my EF 50 1.2 and 24 1.4 ii, and others go meh. Eye of the beholder and situational context, right?
 
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It came today, it was late. I'm really excited to try it! I did a little testing but it wasn't good (the tests) because I have to get my camera setup again. I've had a really hard time getting things how I want them, when switching from the Canon 5D Mark iii to the Canon R5 mark ii. Just a BIG switch and a bit overwhelming. I could probably put the lens on the 5D and take great images but there's definitely a huge learning curve for me, when using the R5. I'm going to be looking into some videos on the settings and maybe websites.

As far as the condition of the lens, it seems to be great! It's just the camera I need to figure out. I'm looking forward to figuring things out and getting some great shots. I bought the camera new but have hardly used it for a variety of reasons. The plan is to actually use it a lot more this year, there's so much I want to learn.
That’s awesome. Enjoy nerding out.
 
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I will chime in on wall charts.

I'm the first to admit, I'm cursed with an eye for detail. I shoot a lot of small birds and wildflowers which make a sharp lens very important. However, more importantly, the AF has to be very precise, not just on wall charts, but in the field. Otherwise, sharpness is worthless.

Having said this, I'm not a pixel peeper. When I download new images, I want one or more to stop me in my tracks for its subjective qualities. A soft lens can ruin an image, but sharpness alone doesn't make a compelling image.

I called the 135 2L my "magic" lens for the compelling images it has a knack for. It is an old lens and the AF is not as good as newer ones, so my keep rate wasn't particularly good. Mounted on a R5 or newer, the AF greatly improved, more so than the rest of my EF lenses (about 15.) When the R5 and R6 were launched, Canon's Rudy specifically mentioned they would give new life to the 135. I guess Canon saw what I did.

I read or watched every review of the Sigma 135 1.8 I could find. A lot of reviewers give glowing reviews to everything. They are worthless. The honest reviews found some AF issues, though it was better than some other Sigma offerings. They also found some funky colors. Overall, the images I saw didn't move me.

Some people have referred to 135 2L lovers as a cult. Count me in. When I think about my most memorable images, or my large prints on the wall, it is overrepresented. When I ordered the RF 1.8 version, I was worried it wouldn't have the same magic. I'm happy to report it is also overrepresented on my wall.

In short, if a lens is soft on a wall chart, I'm out. However, most modern lenses do very well on these tests. Wall charts won't tell me how AF performs in the field or anything subjective at all.
 
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I'm happy to see the Sigma 150-600 C gets some love.I bought one last year after briefly trying a Tamron 150-600(mk1).The Sigma does everything well and doesnt have the funky colors of the Tamron.
It's biggest flaw is lack of sharpness for white birds when used towards the long end.I have no idea why only white birds!Everything else looks fine
 
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I will chime in on wall charts.

I'm the first to admit, I'm cursed with an eye for detail. I shoot a lot of small birds and wildflowers which make a sharp lens very important. However, more importantly, the AF has to be very precise, not just on wall charts, but in the field. Otherwise, sharpness is worthless.

Having said this, I'm not a pixel peeper. When I download new images, I want one or more to stop me in my tracks for its subjective qualities. A soft lens can ruin an image, but sharpness alone doesn't make a compelling image.

I called the 135 2L my "magic" lens for the compelling images it has a knack for. It is an old lens and the AF is not as good as newer ones, so my keep rate wasn't particularly good. Mounted on a R5 or newer, the AF greatly improved, more so than the rest of my EF lenses (about 15.) When the R5 and R6 were launched, Canon's Rudy specifically mentioned they would give new life to the 135. I guess Canon saw what I did.

I read or watched every review of the Sigma 135 1.8 I could find. A lot of reviewers give glowing reviews to everything. They are worthless. The honest reviews found some AF issues, though it was better than some other Sigma offerings. They also found some funky colors. Overall, the images I saw didn't move me.

Some people have referred to 135 2L lovers as a cult. Count me in. When I think about my most memorable images, or my large prints on the wall, it is overrepresented. When I ordered the RF 1.8 version, I was worried it wouldn't have the same magic. I'm happy to report it is also overrepresented on my wall.

In short, if a lens is soft on a wall chart, I'm out. However, most modern lenses do very well on these tests. Wall charts won't tell me how AF performs in the field or anything subjective at all.

In addition to the AF advantages of MILCs, I'd suspect IBIS may make a significant contribution as well. The only real shortcoming I see with the EF 135mm f/2 L is that it does not have IS. IBIS can make a real difference with a non-stabilized telephoto lens in many shooting scenarios.

Too many folks seem to think there is absolutely no way when they are using a non-stabilized 135mm f/2 lens wide open at 1/30 handheld that the resulting images will show the effects of any camera motion when pixel peeping, so if there is any blur in the subject it's because the lens has to be "soft" since their technique is unquestionably perfect! :D:LOL:

When using the EF 135mm f/2 L handheld I've had images that weren't as sharp as they could have been due to my poor shooting technique. It's not because the lens is 'soft'. It's because I wasn't holding the camera stable enough. If the camera is moving enough to show motion blur during the exposure that's on me, not the lens. Most of what I shoot with the 135/2 is pre-focused and held using back button AF until the decisive moment presents itself, so AF speed is rarely a factor in the way I use it most of the time. YMMV.
 
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I've had filters stuck many a times. Here is my technique of dealing with it. Find another cylindrical object with a similar diameter (another lens, a beer can, etc). Tape this object to the filter with electrical tape or duct tape. Then, twist. You can apply much more torque this way compared to trying to twist the filter on its own.

There's always the Adam Savage bandsaw method.

1773736490861.png

1773736504836.png
 
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It's biggest flaw is lack of sharpness for white birds when used towards the long end.I have no idea why only white birds!Everything else looks fine

Oversaturation, even in only one of the three color channels, can often make details look "blurry".

Here's an example from a totally different shooting scenario.

Essentially what a straight out of camera JPEG using Auto White Balance would have looked like with this image taken using an EOS 5D Mark III, EF 50mm f/1.4 at ISO5000, f/2.2, 1/50.
1773741364186.png

The red (magenta) and blue LEDs illuminating the stage were on and at or near full intensity, while the green ones were much dimmer or off (I remember them being totally off, but this was over a decade ago and my memory might not be is not as good as it once was). There was also a chandelier with dim incandescent bulbs overhead, dim incandescent lighting in the audience areas, and both incandescent and sodium vapor lights spilling in from the street through the large window on one side of the band. These other ambient light sources provided what little green there was in the scene.

100% crop of the singer's face.
1773741635514.png
Here's the histogram for the entire image with the curser centered on the bright area under his right (camera left) eye. It's pretty obvious the red channel was oversaturated and the blue channel to a lesser degree.
1773741941440.png

The same image after extensive white balance adjustment and HSL treatment.
1773742278450.png

It's not great, but it looks a lot better than where we started. Just getting the blown red/magenta under control goes a long way to showing that poor focus wasn't the main problem with the image. The loss of details caused by oversaturation in the red channel made everything look blurrier that it actually was!

100% crop and histogram of another "SOOC" image exposed 1 1/3 stops darker under the exact same light with ISO5000, f/2.8, 1/80.
1773742449456.png
1773742472907.png

Although the histogram still shows full saturation in the red and blue channels on the same spot of the face, it's pretty clear they are not nearly as blown out (especially red) as the other shot and there was enough headroom in the raw file to recover the detail. We were even able to push exposure up 1 stop while holding back the highlights when developing the raw file to gain back the lost brightness. Notice the more even skin tones in the face and hands of the leader.
1773742571717.png

Still a little blurry, mostly due to the prehistoric NR available circa 2013 or so, but not nearly as blurry as what appeared to be the case when the red channel was blown completely out.
 
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It works! I can confirm, but I'd recommend covering every possible lens part with blue tape, and to use the finest possible bandsaw metal blade.
In order to prevent filters from getting stuck, I often use a dry lubricant, like teflon, applied with a very fine paintbrush. And buy high quality filters, like B&W, whose threads are well machined and deburred.
 
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I will chime in on wall charts.

I'm the first to admit, I'm cursed with an eye for detail. I shoot a lot of small birds and wildflowers which make a sharp lens very important. However, more importantly, the AF has to be very precise, not just on wall charts, but in the field. Otherwise, sharpness is worthless.

Having said this, I'm not a pixel peeper. When I download new images, I want one or more to stop me in my tracks for its subjective qualities. A soft lens can ruin an image, but sharpness alone doesn't make a compelling image.

I called the 135 2L my "magic" lens for the compelling images it has a knack for. It is an old lens and the AF is not as good as newer ones, so my keep rate wasn't particularly good. Mounted on a R5 or newer, the AF greatly improved, more so than the rest of my EF lenses (about 15.) When the R5 and R6 were launched, Canon's Rudy specifically mentioned they would give new life to the 135. I guess Canon saw what I did.

I read or watched every review of the Sigma 135 1.8 I could find. A lot of reviewers give glowing reviews to everything. They are worthless. The honest reviews found some AF issues, though it was better than some other Sigma offerings. They also found some funky colors. Overall, the images I saw didn't move me.

Some people have referred to 135 2L lovers as a cult. Count me in. When I think about my most memorable images, or my large prints on the wall, it is overrepresented. When I ordered the RF 1.8 version, I was worried it wouldn't have the same magic. I'm happy to report it is also overrepresented on my wall.

In short, if a lens is soft on a wall chart, I'm out. However, most modern lenses do very well on these tests. Wall charts won't tell me how AF performs in the field or anything subjective at all.
I very much agree, I've been a fan of the EF 135mm f2.0 for well over 15 years. my copy is beaten to heck and well used. It still puts in great shots and I've not seen optical sharpness issues with it on my R6ii or R5.
However....it's a very old lens and it's AF sometimes can be less consistent that newer designs. Its remarkable that Canon go so much right with this lens, when relatively newer lenses (like the ef 50mm f1.2L) had far worse AF in low light.
One of the more memorable uses of this lens was back from my "available light" Wedding photographer days and I had a wedding contract to cover a ceremony in Canterbury Cathedal in the crypt, lit only by candle light. No flashes allowed and the ambience was amazing. This was the youngest of two sisters and her older sister was married at the same venue two years previously and the other photographer used f2.8 zooms (with flashes on a crop camera) and couldn't get a usable shot because it was too dark and was using Nikon at the time. These days, it would be so much easier in these shooting conditions because the MIRC have better high iso abilities (both Canon and Nikon) and great AF as low as -2ev or better in many cameras. Back then, on Canon full frame, only the single central AF point (in one shot only) or the central 5 points (depending on which model) were usable at these light levels.

To be fair, this lens struggled in this context more than my ef 35mm f1.4 and ef 85mm f1.2, but that's the reality of combined darker aperture and the need to shoot at a higher shutter speed due tot he focal length. A 35mm f1.4 fains a whole stop AND it can get sharp images at 1/30th sec, where as the EF 135mm f2.0 looses a stop and needs to shoot at 1/125-150th to reduce hand wobble or camera shake. Tricks like bracing against a wall / pillar / column help a lot too.
Generally with weddings 1/50th is the slowest you can shoot because the subjects need to be clear, defined and without movement (unless it's clearly a creative shot).
The RF cameras (as we all know) have a far superior Af system than their older DSLR cousins. Continuous, reliable and accurrate tracking across the whole frame is something that we are all enjoying and it's easy to forget the AF deficiencies of the past and that this lens was originally designed to operate with. This lens was designed for film cameras way before digital was anything more that prototype and early concepts, it was launched as an enirely new design around 1997 with a new optical formula, improved over it's famous FD counterpart. Other memorable lenses launched the same year: EF 180mm f3.5 Macro and EF 400mm f2.8 LIS II....it was quite a year for Canon lens design, maybe one of Canon's finest. Here we are 20 years later seeing that some of these lenses from this particular generation are still very relevent. This was a year that legends were born.

One of the sweet things that I love about the ef 135L is it's tiny size and weight. It's truely a discrete telephoto lens. Often it frames similar to a 70-200 @ 200mm with tight close headshots. This is due to the zoom having more focal length breathing at MFD and that many 70-200's are actually quite short of the magic 200mm declaration on the barrel. I've had an older Sigma 70-200 EX DG that was really a 85-185mm (excluding focal breathing).
often, I found at weddings I could take a step closer and I'd get the same frame filling I would from my EF 70-200mm LIS II, but with a far les obtrusive lens that was lighter and way less heavier. Sure, no IS and the AF isn't quite so good, but I usually prefered the images from the 135/f2L.

The new RF is a stuning lens in every way except in the areas that made it's predessor so versatile. The new lens is one of Canon's sharpest primes...seriously it blows away every prime under 200mm by some margin....but you can't fit teleconverters to it. Duhhh.
It's gained 1/3 of a stop of brightness, a truely superior Af system and a new IS system. It's now got more focal breathing than before but can focus closer...all this adds up to a lens that is almost as heavy and the similar bag size as the RF70-200mm f2.8 LIS, which says a lot about the zoom lens!
For me, if I was still shooting weddings in the UK and I needed a newer set of lenses (warrenty and service life are a big factor here), I woudn't choose the EF 135L, I would definatly get the RF 70-200/2.8 and pick up a mint used EF 135L for my bag and review it's use over the season.
But it leaves the RF 135L out in the cold as a worthy sucessor. It superior in every lab tests except it's use case scenario that the EF 135L excelled in. To be honest, this could all change if Canon drops a RF 135mm f2 VCM lens on us, that basically takes the old EF lens and gives us a new lens that gives us an improvement of the features that made this then great. But if you already have a RF 70-200/2.8 then you probably won't ever see much use for the current RF135L or potentially a newer, smaller, lighter VCM option. This is because Canon did a packaging miracle with the RF70-200/2.8 LIS and made it so small and light. This is hard for me to write because the RF135mm f1.8 LIS is a superlative lens, one of Canon's finest...it's just lost 80% of it's photographer's appeal compared to the EF version.

My conclusion, there are a few EF primes that adapt well and are still relevent in the Canon Mirrorless ecosystem. The EF 85mm f1.4 LIS , the EF 35mm f1.4 II L and the EF 135mm f2.0 L are the three that stand out and still stand out as exceptional. Sure we could add the EF 200mm f2.0 LIS to this list, but that's one of the great whites and that's a slightly different topic. While the new RF 85mm 1.4 L VCM and RF 35mm f1.4 L VCM lenses are excellent, if you already have the previous EF version's there's not much to gain from the side grade cost. The Rf 135L is a vast improvement in every metric that is unfortunatly not very helpful to the photographer and their shooting needs and this leaves the EF version a curious better option for many.
 
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In addition to the AF advantages of MILCs, I'd suspect IBIS may make a significant contribution as well. The only real shortcoming I see with the EF 135mm f/2 L is that it does not have IS. IBIS can make a real difference with a non-stabilized telephoto lens in many shooting scenarios.

Too many folks seem to think there is absolutely no way when they are using a non-stabilized 135mm f/2 lens wide open at 1/30 handheld that the resulting images will show the effects of any camera motion when pixel peeping, so if there is any blur in the subject it's because the lens has to be "soft" since their technique is unquestionably perfect! :D:LOL:

When using the EF 135mm f/2 L handheld I've had images that weren't as sharp as they could have been due to my poor shooting technique. It's not because the lens is 'soft'. It's because I wasn't holding the camera stable enough. If the camera is moving enough to show motion blur during the exposure that's on me, not the lens. Most of what I shoot with the 135/2 is pre-focused and held using back button AF until the decisive moment presents itself, so AF speed is rarely a factor in the way I use it most of the time. YMMV.
The Canon's MILC IBIS is notorious for adding edge wobbles and image distortions on wide angle lenses. It's is a sysyem that is often cites as more effective at wider focal lengths than longer. Optical Image Stabilisation is the preferred technology for longer focal lengths and yes it's a pity Canon never released a mkII of the EF 135L with just this one improvement.

I personally do not shoot my 135L any slower than 1/150th second unless the camera is on a tripod. I dont know the IBIS stabliisation figures for longer focal lengths but I don't think it's that good or particularly trustworthy (unless shot in a short burst). Now saying this, i'm sure there will be load of people posting comments and images shot in really slow shutter speed conditions!
 
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I've owned my EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II since 2010
I have mine since about 2012, if I remember correctly. Works perfectly until today.
What it HAS had every single time I've ever shot with it, is the lens hood properly mounted in place. It's also had a lens cap on it whenever it has been stored in a case or on a shelf. The lens cap goes on immediately before the hood comes off to be reversed.
Same with me, but what happened to my wife changed my mind, and I screwed a good filter on it. She has the Nikkor 70-200/2.8 VR II, so the actual competition model from Nikon. When that lens still was quite new, she did some street shooting during carneval, lens hood on the lens, no filter. But someone in the crowed managed to poke his umbrella spike exactly into the hood and hit the front lens, not realizing it. Since then it had quite a scratch that could affect the image quality in very bright conditions.

Well, because of Nikon's not so brilliant quality (looking back to the golden days of this camera maker), this lens had recently the second AF drive failure (and that's not the only lens of our Nikon gear), so we decided to throw it away and replace it with a used one in good condition purchased at MPB. You can get decent copies substantially cheaper than used EF 70-200/2.8 II, there must be a reason behind that. Nikon's quality is really not up to Canon's anymore with their pro/prosumer equipment.
 
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In addition to the AF advantages of MILCs, I'd suspect IBIS may make a significant contribution as well. The only real shortcoming I see with the EF 135mm f/2 L is that it does not have IS. IBIS can make a real difference with a non-stabilized telephoto lens in many shooting scenarios.

Too many folks seem to think there is absolutely no way when they are using a non-stabilized 135mm f/2 lens wide open at 1/30 handheld that the resulting images will show the effects of any camera motion when pixel peeping, so if there is any blur in the subject it's because the lens has to be "soft" since their technique is unquestionably perfect! :D:LOL:

When using the EF 135mm f/2 L handheld I've had images that weren't as sharp as they could have been due to my poor shooting technique. It's not because the lens is 'soft'. It's because I wasn't holding the camera stable enough. If the camera is moving enough to show motion blur during the exposure that's on me, not the lens. Most of what I shoot with the 135/2 is pre-focused and held using back button AF until the decisive moment presents itself, so AF speed is rarely a factor in the way I use it most of the time. YMMV.

I also suspect IBIS helps out but have no way to prove it. I shoot everything handheld. I'm pretty good at it. Extensive experience with target shooting no doubt helps. With DSLRs, I often practiced by taking a long, heavy lens, turn IS off and using a single focus point, try holding it steady. It's tough. Also, I see a lot of photographers move the entire camera (usually down and/or away) when pushing the shutter. Concentrating on keeping the camera steady is worthwhile. I could shoot the 135 at 1/30 and get a decent hit rate. It helps that it is short, light and well balanced.
 
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I very much agree, I've been a fan of the EF 135mm f2.0 for well over 15 years. my copy is beaten to heck and well used. It still puts in great shots and I've not seen optical sharpness issues with it on my R6ii or R5.
However....it's a very old lens and it's AF sometimes can be less consistent that newer designs. Its remarkable that Canon go so much right with this lens, when relatively newer lenses (like the ef 50mm f1.2L) had far worse AF in low light.
One of the more memorable uses of this lens was back from my "available light" Wedding photographer days and I had a wedding contract to cover a ceremony in Canterbury Cathedal in the crypt, lit only by candle light. No flashes allowed and the ambience was amazing. This was the youngest of two sisters and her older sister was married at the same venue two years previously and the other photographer used f2.8 zooms (with flashes on a crop camera) and couldn't get a usable shot because it was too dark and was using Nikon at the time. These days, it would be so much easier in these shooting conditions because the MIRC have better high iso abilities (both Canon and Nikon) and great AF as low as -2ev or better in many cameras. Back then, on Canon full frame, only the single central AF point (in one shot only) or the central 5 points (depending on which model) were usable at these light levels.

To be fair, this lens struggled in this context more than my ef 35mm f1.4 and ef 85mm f1.2, but that's the reality of combined darker aperture and the need to shoot at a higher shutter speed due tot he focal length. A 35mm f1.4 fains a whole stop AND it can get sharp images at 1/30th sec, where as the EF 135mm f2.0 looses a stop and needs to shoot at 1/125-150th to reduce hand wobble or camera shake. Tricks like bracing against a wall / pillar / column help a lot too.
Generally with weddings 1/50th is the slowest you can shoot because the subjects need to be clear, defined and without movement (unless it's clearly a creative shot).
The RF cameras (as we all know) have a far superior Af system than their older DSLR cousins. Continuous, reliable and accurrate tracking across the whole frame is something that we are all enjoying and it's easy to forget the AF deficiencies of the past and that this lens was originally designed to operate with. This lens was designed for film cameras way before digital was anything more that prototype and early concepts, it was launched as an enirely new design around 1997 with a new optical formula, improved over it's famous FD counterpart. Other memorable lenses launched the same year: EF 180mm f3.5 Macro and EF 400mm f2.8 LIS II....it was quite a year for Canon lens design, maybe one of Canon's finest. Here we are 20 years later seeing that some of these lenses from this particular generation are still very relevent. This was a year that legends were born.

One of the sweet things that I love about the ef 135L is it's tiny size and weight. It's truely a discrete telephoto lens. Often it frames similar to a 70-200 @ 200mm with tight close headshots. This is due to the zoom having more focal length breathing at MFD and that many 70-200's are actually quite short of the magic 200mm declaration on the barrel. I've had an older Sigma 70-200 EX DG that was really a 85-185mm (excluding focal breathing).
often, I found at weddings I could take a step closer and I'd get the same frame filling I would from my EF 70-200mm LIS II, but with a far les obtrusive lens that was lighter and way less heavier. Sure, no IS and the AF isn't quite so good, but I usually prefered the images from the 135/f2L.

The new RF is a stuning lens in every way except in the areas that made it's predessor so versatile. The new lens is one of Canon's sharpest primes...seriously it blows away every prime under 200mm by some margin....but you can't fit teleconverters to it. Duhhh.
It's gained 1/3 of a stop of brightness, a truely superior Af system and a new IS system. It's now got more focal breathing than before but can focus closer...all this adds up to a lens that is almost as heavy and the similar bag size as the RF70-200mm f2.8 LIS, which says a lot about the zoom lens!
For me, if I was still shooting weddings in the UK and I needed a newer set of lenses (warrenty and service life are a big factor here), I woudn't choose the EF 135L, I would definatly get the RF 70-200/2.8 and pick up a mint used EF 135L for my bag and review it's use over the season.
But it leaves the RF 135L out in the cold as a worthy sucessor. It superior in every lab tests except it's use case scenario that the EF 135L excelled in. To be honest, this could all change if Canon drops a RF 135mm f2 VCM lens on us, that basically takes the old EF lens and gives us a new lens that gives us an improvement of the features that made this then great. But if you already have a RF 70-200/2.8 then you probably won't ever see much use for the current RF135L or potentially a newer, smaller, lighter VCM option. This is because Canon did a packaging miracle with the RF70-200/2.8 LIS and made it so small and light. This is hard for me to write because the RF135mm f1.8 LIS is a superlative lens, one of Canon's finest...it's just lost 80% of it's photographer's appeal compared to the EF version.

My conclusion, there are a few EF primes that adapt well and are still relevent in the Canon Mirrorless ecosystem. The EF 85mm f1.4 LIS , the EF 35mm f1.4 II L and the EF 135mm f2.0 L are the three that stand out and still stand out as exceptional. Sure we could add the EF 200mm f2.0 LIS to this list, but that's one of the great whites and that's a slightly different topic. While the new RF 85mm 1.4 L VCM and RF 35mm f1.4 L VCM lenses are excellent, if you already have the previous EF version's there's not much to gain from the side grade cost. The Rf 135L is a vast improvement in every metric that is unfortunatly not very helpful to the photographer and their shooting needs and this leaves the EF version a curious better option for many.
For my use, the RF version helps me quite a bit and I do like the color rendition better. Sure, it's quite a bit bigger & heavier but when you add in the additional weight and length of an adapter, it's not a big deal. I never used an extender on the EF version anyway though I have used that as an excuse to keep it!
 
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