wickidwombat said:

I really think the issue is using photomatix it's softening the images considerably and gives the skin tones a sickly look

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Might interest you to know that most software are racists. (j/k)

I don't know if it's your case but using any kind of auto setting related to skin tones generally end up in big fails with asians. That particularly true when there is very present make up.

Just have to do everything manually.

Oh too bad, have been waiting and waiting... but it is worth to wait...

I would definitely practice your glidecam work. It's very wobbly back and forth. Maybe try to balance the glidecam more precisely and it will become easier to work with. Also you might want to consider a pan or slide on the static shots to keep it more interesting rather than halting the movement. Your exposure is nice and the colors look good. I like the sound track.

How to balance glide cam
How to PROPERLY balance Wieldy, Glidecam, Flycam, Laing, Wondlan, etc

Mantanuska said:

Personally, I don't know why you would want a T5i when you can get essentially the same camera (a T4i) for $300 less.

And while we're at it, the only reason to get a T4i over a T3i is the touch screen. If the touch screen isn't important , you will get slightly better image quality from a T3i, and it is cheaper.


All that aside, if the T5i and the 60D were the only two choices, I would vote for the 60D. Having that aperture wheel on the back of the camera makes things a lot easier. The 60D still has plenty of automatic modes

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The T4i has 9-Point All Cross-Type AF System whereas the T3i is Cross-Type only in center.

Mine's the same way.

I have the SP24-70VC and it is amazingly sharp, the VC (IS) is wonderful (at least 3 stops) and I highly recommend it. It is far superior to the 24-105, which I also have. I would sell the 24-105 and pick up a 70-200. The reviews for the Tamron are very good, though I have no experience with it. I do have the 70-200L f/4 IS and think this is one of the best affordable lenses on the planet. Hope this helps.

I don't think you can stream the broadcast outside of the uk, but my vt inserts can be viewed here (minus music for copyright reasons)

http://youtu.be/tbx9cHT5c0Q

http://youtu.be/MdThPygyypw

http://youtu.be/XE8WANdpt1o

http://youtu.be/S2IP9Q8wg1c

http://youtu.be/aIlGaeue7es

http://youtu.be/rilq2H1JtHQ

learncanon said:

DArora said:

learncanon said:

Dylan777 said:

If you think 97% Viewfinder Coverage in 6D is too big, wait until you shoot with 5D III @ 100%

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this is a common misconception.

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No, it's not. At 0.71x magnification 100% coverage viewfinder will be bigger than 97% coverage viewfinder. 6D and 5D3 both has 0.71x magnification viewfinders. APS-C cameras have smaller magnification, 7D, for example, has 0.63x, 50D has 0.59x.

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we are talking abt 97 vs 100. yes, on paper is it bigger. but in real life, can you even notice that 3%? putting the 3% vf crop aside. he made it seems like that the 3% size difference is going to blow OP away. this is a misconception in this sense.

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So...it's bigger

Canon Rebel T5i (700d) Hands-On

it´s sad.. but well ... it´s the truth.

bholliman said:

sun216 said:

captainkanji said:

I upgraded from the 7D to the 6D. The 7D is still great, but I needed high ISO performance for events, and the 6D does not disappoint. In low light, it basically becomes a 1 point AF DSLR, but that one point grabs focus like a tractor beam ;D. For my style, FF is the way to go.

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What about the AF ???

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I have both a 7D and 6D. The 7D autofocus is of course better, but I find the 6D AF good enough for 95% of the things I shoot. That said, I don't do much wildlife or sports photography, mostly kids/family, landscapes and event photography. The 6D AF is fine for almost everything except for fast and erratically moving subjects.

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I just bought a 6D, keeping my 7D which I've used for a couple years. I still love my 7D and will use it for rapid focus and extra reach. I also think at 800 and under ISO the images are fine. What I've found with the 6D (only a couple weeks use) is that the ISO performance is amazing. At 6400 the noise is probably equivalent to 800 on the 7D, but the noise is not as unattractive - not sure what the difference is...

The 6D seems to produce a richer image color wise as well.

I love both cameras!

No doubt the Nikon has some problems, but then so does the Canon. Both of them are incorrect in their color rendering, but the Nikon camera usually tend in one direction (pulling yellow, orange and red towards the "clockwise" if you think of colors as in a color circle) and Canon in the other. Canon usually pulls orange, red, purple and blue in towards the red center, making yellow>orange and form the other direction; blue>purple.

Neither camera is usable for "good" color straight out of the box in full automatic settings, but it could be argued the Canon errs in a more pleasant way (on which I agree).

Absolute color temperatures, in the way that camera manufacturers indicate them by "Kelvin" simply does not exist. At least they're very rare, the one true example you can find out in reality nowadays are high-efficiency halogen bulbs. Anything other than this has a +/- green/magenta tint away from the CCT line of "Kelvin color temperature".

Shooting in the most common light indoors today, fluorescents, you have a very distinct tint towards green if you don't compensate for the errors induced by the light. This is exactly what SHOULD happen.

My guess is that Canon partly compensates for this out-of-the box, which can be seen if you shoot something in true 3000K light - here the Canon cameras turn very much to red.

That said, Canon is vastly better in the way it allows you to download color-compensation into the camera (it's the jpg-engine that handles raw-color conversion for movies and LV) via the Canon Profile Editor. If you want production quality color straight out of the camera, this is the only way to go. Nikon has no such possibility, you need to correct colors in post-production to get accurate results. This in-camera adjustments only allow for WB finetuning, not for real color correction.

WB is not the same as color correction. It is the first part of color correction, but the main part of heavy lifting happens later, in the color conversion of the raw file. WB balances the average strengths of three unknown raw channels, the rest of the profile translates the result into human-vision based color.

I have both primes and zooms, but my core video kit is my:

600d
Tokina 11-16
Sigma 18-50 (now fixed and better than ever)
Canon 70-200 f2.8 nonIS

Constant f2.8, range of 18mm-320mm equivalent.

Zooms are far better for me for run and gun. Less to carry, less frequent changing. F2.8 more forgiving that f1.4 etc.

Just my opinion. The problem is more often keeping things dark when its bright than making things bright when its dark.

Looking for a good nd16.

Glennard...Also, if it's a matter of saving for a 6D...have you not considered buying from the various retailers that offer 6 months, or 12 months and no interest? I bought mine with 6 months no interest...but wish it was 12. I'm managing it. Usually Amazon has the 12 month offer (if you get their credit card...which I have found to be very handy), while the Bronx and other NY area camera retailers are more miserly, and keep you at 6. At the time I bought mine, Amazon's price was ~$150 higher...and the deal I got, also came with a memory card and a decent medium-sized Canon camera bag...which didn't show until you "add to cart".

(As most of you guys already know...) The best deals, begin to happen about a week before Thanksgiving, and get even better through Christmas. However, you are better off not waiting that long to buy a 6D, in my opinion. It's worth the $50 to $100 extra you pay now, to have the camera for the summer and fall.

rs said:

Viggo said:

Concern is what. To do with the other places the water can come in. It took my 85L out in the rain once and it rained right through the focus distance window, the mount was dry between camera and back if the lens.

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That's the exact problem with stuff like the dust donut - it can only attempt to fix the leak at the lens/body join and does nothing to seal up the rest of the holes in the lens. However, the 24-70 mk I is a weather sealed lens, so all those other potential water ingress points should be covered. Presuming yours only has damage to the rubber gasket at the lens mount, it should work - but as to whether its anywhere near as good as the genuine $211 Canon seal, I couldn't say. And I guess there will be a bit of a wait seeing as it's still at the kickstarter stage.

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For now I think I'll just use the 50L for the rainy days . Perhaps even remove the seal as it is pretty chewed up.

Thanks for sharing! Schneider lenses are remarkable but the price will probably be very high too bad Schneider and Zeiss are all manual focus

Hello,
I just bought a 6D and I was looking for a focus screen to help with manual focus. I am getting mixed information about the compatibility; some say that any focus screen that work for the 5D MkII will work and other say that none will. Can anybody help me? If it can help, I am looking for a split-sreen focus screen like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180-horizontal-Split-Image-Focus-Focusing-Screen-For-Canon-EOS-5D2-5D-Mark-II?item=271183492503&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7174353032350245585.
Thank you very much!

Thanks a lot Reed and other wonderful people who helped me

Cheers !

Vikram

Krob78 said:

jcoz said:

With the tourist season ending it's getting very quiet here...I am trying Craigslist for the first time, and might try Amazon too. Id' give up a couple of 100s to avoid the hassle

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What are you getting rid of?

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Canon 50D with canon grip, two canon batteries (with French charger) and a little dust on the mirror, and very likely Canon EF 70-300 L.

I just purchased the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS mkii. I'm also leaning towards getting the 1.4 extender and I haven't done much research between the two options. I guess I should get on that.

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If you do before I do, I'd appreciate some more feedback !

It's definitely possible to make a practical <2.8 zoom lens with a conservative zoom range (not too wide and not too long).

The Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.6-2.8 AT-X Pro II is a (discontinued) full-frame lens that is a tad faster than 2.8 at the wide-end, and it's not very large (A bit larger than the 24-105 f/4 IS). Moreover it's fixed length (does not extend while zooming). Quite a nice piece of engineering.

dr croubie said:

infared said:

...and notice I said it is a great "compliment" to a FF system...

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Is m4/3 a 'compliment' to a FF system, or a 'complement' to a FF system?
Or maybe it's both?
It works well alongside FF, plus the lower IQ of m4/3 reminds you how good the FF system is


[/grammar fun]

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DC ...touché! Perfect comment...I obviously meant complement..but what you say, it's all true!....Now back to the problem at hand...how do I stop buying lenses and bodies for TWO systems??? :-X

I picked up my new 100-400 Zoom on Monday April 22. I got it with the rebate. I think I saved more than $200.00.
We went to the river today (Tuesday) to see if I could get any Eagle Pics. I got some BIF pics of the Male Flying. Some were trash a few were keepers. I will get better over time. Practice, Practice, Practice. LOL I think I got a good copy of the lens. From what I saw on the LCD and computer screen when we got home, some pics are razor sharp. This lens is a Beast. It's heavy and your arms know they are carrying weight. I am going to leave home carrying less gear next time. I
may get to take more pics on Wednesday afternoon if we go to Rocky Point for fish and chips for dinner. I will have lots of
chances to retake pics I have taken before with my 70-200 with 1.4 Extender. I will let you know how I make out with this lens. I read online that the dust pump moniker may be an urban myth. I'm sure dust can get inside if you change zoom in dusty conditions. I will be wiping the dust off the barrel before I change length like I do with my 17-85.

If you don't like how hard the 24-70 II is to put it on, just wait til you see how easily it can FALL OFF! Sorry all....still bitter after my little accident the other day. Sigh.

J.R. said:

Working fine for me.

Since you are able to access the website and other posts, try using a different browser / device? In the alternate, you could try clearing the cache of your internet files which can possibly remove the error.

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I did all that before I posted, but like I say it is not at my end. 403 is the forbidden error which means something is messed up in the coding in the forum software.

The problem only occurs when I try and reply to my thread about the Lowepro Toploader 80/85 which I linked to in the very first post of this thread. I can post in other threads such as this without any problem.

Aaron78 said:

sanj said:

A face that tell lots of stories!

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Yep, tells stories, or keeps me from being able to sleep at night
Awesome photos sanj, and to the others that joined in with their own entires. I am seriously ready to order a 1DX with an 85 1.2 and 24-70 2.8 II, at least it will save me alot over my first plan of 1DX and 600 F4 II....

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