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Recommended RF Lenses to take on an African Safari

Dear Colleagues:

I will be on a Southern African Safari this summer and am curious on what combination of RF lenses one would recommend. I am limited in weight due to travel restrictions. In addiiton, I and am recovering from an ankle sprain so depending on how the ankle feels in six months I might want to go lighter as well.

Some combinations I am considering:

Combo 1: (net weight = 12.14 lbs)

1) Canon 24-105 mm f4 1.54 lbs
2) Canon 100-500 mm f4.5-7.1 3.00 lbs
3) Canon 400 mm f2.8 with 1.4x and 2.0x TCs (6.4 lbs + 1.2 lbs)

Advantage: I cover all focal ranges from 24-800 mm so should work well for birds as well as larger mammals.
Disadvantage: Heavy to carry and if using the 400 mm f2.8 I would likely be changing TCs in the field under (very) dusty conditions which is not ideal.

Combo 2: (net weight = 7.8- 8.24 lbs)

1) Canon 24-70 mm f2.8 1.98 lbs or Canon 24-105 mm f4 1.54 lbs)
2) Canon 70-200 mm f2.8 3.26 lbs
3) Canon 100-500 mm f4.5-7.1 3 lbs

Advantages: Significantly lighter than Combo 1 and I have fast glass from 24-200 mm.
Disadvantage: My longest focal length is 500 mm, which will definitely limit photography of smaller animals (e.g. birds). Also not very fast at 500 mm (f7.1).

I currently own two R3 cameras and would like to use both on the trip and am open to renting a smaller camera (R6/R5/R7) if it makes sense and carry it as an addition or as a substitute for one of the R3s.

If anyone on this forum has been to Southern Africa (Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe) I would like to hear back from you on which focal lengths were the most useful. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

I have watched numerous videos on YouTube and honestly it seems that they recommend every lens from 16 mm to 800 mm so. bit of guidance is appreciated.

I am most interested in larger mammals (hippos, giraffes, elephants, etc.), but birds would be nice to photograph as well.

All equipment needs to fit in a GuraGear 30L backpack and ScotteVest QUEST vest with 42 pockets. I think the vest will be good for cables, extra batteries and memory cards.


Thank you,

John

Canon will release a trio of RF mount wide angle L prime lenses in the first half of 2023

The eternally rumoured Canon RF 35mm f/1.2L USM (or f/1.4) has been rumoured for what seems forever. We’ve seen this before with certain lenses, most notably the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II and EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM II. They existed and took forever to actually get announced and hit the market. We have been told

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R7 Focus and High Noise

Hello! I hope that you can help me. I just got an R7 after shooting with a 7dmii with which I took tack sharp pictures. This is my first mirrorless, and I have worked with many different settings in the AF and Camera Menus. I have also reset the camera twice. Here are my issues:
1. All my pictures are in poor focus.
2. All my pictures are very noisy.

I have the following lenses, and the issue is with all of them.
1. Mount Adapter EF-EOS R Canon
2. Canon 24-105 f4
3. Canon 70-200 f2.8
4. Sigma 100-400 f5

I have taken hundreds of shots of ducks and flowers so that I would have stationary subjects and some subjects with slow movement.

I shoot in CRAW. Evaluative Meter. sRGB. HDrive. Electronic and Elec 1st-curtain. This happens with Servo and One Shot. AF
Area- I have tried all. I have turned off tracking and eye detection. When in Servo, I sue 2,4 or Auto.

I have read everything that I could find. Watched a milion YouTube videos, and I am unhappily stumped. I am willing to try anything, so if you have the expertise to help me troubleshoot this, I would be so grateful.

Lightweight 2nd Camera

I currently have a Canon R3 and a bunch of RF lenses. I am very happy with this setup, and it really works for me. I shoot everything, and my lenses cover all my needs.

However, I really want a compact camera that I can always take with me. I was thinking the Sony A7C + Tamron 20-40mm f/2.8 would fit this. It is a very compact body, and the lens is as well.

I have no desire to replace/replicate my Canon kit with Sony, so I am thinking of this camera/lens combo as a one and done. If I think the situation might require multiple lenes I will just bring my R3. I love the R3. I find it a joy to use. However, it will not fit in a small camera bag even when I have my smallest lens (RF24-105f/4L) attached.

I know the A7C gets flack for the sometimes-uncomfortable ergonomics and viewfinder, but I am hoping this isn't an issue in my case when I am looking for extreme portability. I've mused about getting an A7IV instead, and while this is a much better camera, it is significantly larger, and if I was going that route, why not just get an R6 Mark ii than can use all my existing lenses. I'm not sure if I would like the R6 route, because I just sold an R5 (just a little bigger) and found the R5+25-105L combo to be a bit too big as a carry always combo. I really hate the RF small lens options due to their lack of weather sealing and noisy/slow STM motors. This is why the Tamron 20-40 is such a winner (enter Sony).

So here I am with the A7C. Does this seem like the way to go? Would I be happier with the 20-40 and an A74 instead? Will I appreciate its ergonomics and extra features over the A7C or will the added size make me leave it home more?

I appreciate any thoughts on this. This is about as first world a problem as they come!

RF L-Series super zoom??? (28-300, 24-240 or?)

I am a press photographer with over 20 years experience. About a year ago I switched from Nikon F-Mount professional, full frame DSLRs to the Canon RF R3 (mirrorless, full frame).
Just like other press photographers, I need a reliable, rugged, weather-sealed, L-Series lens with a wide zoom range (28-300mm, 24-240mm or?) and a manual focus switch for my photojournalism. Will Canon EVER make such a lens?
Currently I use the Canon consumer-grade 24-240mm NON-L-Series lens (NOT weather-sealed, not heavy duty and NO MANUAL FOCUS SWITCH).with my Canon R-3 bodies. This lens is a compromise. I will not buy an obsolete, expensive EF 28-300mm lens that was designed way, way back in 2004, plus an EF-RF adapter.

R Series Rear Lenscap

Am I the only one who starts to hate the new rear lenscap design?
I fiddle arround with it in daylight but I get desperate in low light situations,
meanwhile I just throw the lenses without a cap in the bag if under pressure.

Almost ironic fact: The R rear lenscaps fit perfectly easy on the EF lenses.
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Rode announces the VideoMicro II Camera-Mount Shotgun Microphone

The VideoMicro II is a professional-quality microphone that will instantly elevate the audio of your camera or smartphone. Ultra-compact, lightweight and easy-to-use, it is perfect for run-and-gun filmmaking, content creation, or if you simply want to record better audio for your videos. Rode VideoMicro II Key Features Check out the RODE VideoMicro II at B&H

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Traveling with the 400mm f/2.8?

How do you guys travel with the 400mm f/2.8?

At an event, I just keep it on a monopod and carry it on my shoulders, but what is the most efficient way to travel with it? Two scenarios:
  • Driving to an event, so you can throw everything in the trunk
  • Flying by myself, whether domestically or internationally, where there is a limit in the number and size of carry-on items
In both cases, I do not have an assistant or anyone to help me carry my bags.

I did a little bit of research (and buying and testing), and I haven't been able to come up with a good way to carry the lens.
  • In the original lens bag that came with the lens
    • protects the lens well
    • but it counts as one carry-on
    • can't put anything else in it
  • In a backpack:
    • Fits in the Lowepro ProTactic BP 450 AW II without a lens hood
    • Fits in the Peak Design Everyday Backpack 30L with a lens hood reversed
    • However, it takes up a lot of backpack space in both
  • In the Pelican 1535 Air with TrekPak dividers
    • the lens barely fits the case with the lens hood off The case's height doesn't allow for the diameter of the lens, let alone the lens hood.
    • Even if I squeeze it in with the lens hood detached, the lens takes up a lot of space in the case.
    • This case is also the largest carry-on possible.
I read on some websites that using a travel lens hood, like one from AquaTech or LensCoat saves some space, but then how do you protect the front element of the lens when it's in a bag? There also aren't any clear or UV filters I can use to protect the front element. The Canon E-180E lens cover fits the original lens hood only, so it can't be used without the original lens hood on.

I'm also replacing my lens foot + Really Right Stuff multipurpose rail with a Wimberley AP-601 foot so that the lens foot takes up less space, but the main concern I believe is still the diameter of the lens, which cannot be changed.

What are your solutions? If you fit the lens in a backpack or a case, could you please take a photo of your setup? I would really appreciate it.

Tamron has announced ‘Lens Utility Mobile’ for Android

Tamron Co., Ltd. (President: Shiro Ajisaka; Headquarters: Saitama City) has developed an Android™ *1) operating system that improves convenience at the shooting site and expands the possibilities of photography and video shooting. TAMRON Lens Utility Mobile™, an application dedicated to smartphones/tablets, will be released on November 29, 2022. This application is the mobile version of the computer software

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Lens Hoods at the World Cup

I'm really curious as to why so many photographers are using lens at the World Cup without Lens Hoods.
I know there is probably going to be no rain but I thought they would be using because of the sun or floodlights.
I also expected they would use them to protect the gear.
Maybe it happens alot but I've never really noticed this at major events before.
I'd never use a big white without its lens hood on as it protects against bumps and scrapes.

R7 is a Game Changer for me

Hello again, long time no see


I wanted to share some of my experience with the R7.
However before this I need to reintroduce myself.
Last time I posted here Neuro could still store all his camera bags in one room, Suprapon taught us good behavior and Angkorwat the opposite.
The Queens English is not my native tongue so please forgive me the mistakes I make.

My background: started with a Kiev 80, jumped to Canon with a EOS 100 (non D) and transferred into the digital age with an EOS 30d
A quarter century ago I did Pin-Up pictures as a professional but stopped after the Berlin wall came down.

Why do I mention this? Because understanding my subjective view is easier knowing that Canon taught me to live with humble 18 Megapixel and crop or fullframe is for me not a religion but just a way to separate two different tools.

So back to the R7

The best AF I had experienced before the R7 was the one in my IDX II.
And now? Canon dares to pack something more powerful in the R7

The best focus selecting method since selling my old EOS 5 (non D) was the touchscreen/ viewfinder combination of my EOS M6
Now Canon puts a much more versatile touchscreen/ viewfinder combination and allows me even to choose how much of the screen I want to use

Since throwing away my APS EOS RX I never had a Canon fitting better in my hand than the R7

The R7 has IBIS. Well OK other Canons also have IBIS but.... here is a € 1400 Camera that multiplies suddenly usability of all the old treasures I could not bring myself to sell.
My old 200 L 1.8 has now the support of stabilization. OK the longer the lens the less it benefits from IBIS but with that lens IBIS still rocks.

Some features which I start to love might be only sidekicks to their real purpose but:

Check out the Electronic Shutter/first Curtain setting.
Does what the manual says but perfect side effect for me: the shutter is closed when changing lenses.
If you ever have change lenses on an M, M3 or M6 while in a dusty environment....

Check out the feature it took from the M
"Retract lens when shutting down". I don't think that there are currently many lenses out there which can do this, but this setting results in the camera driving the attached lens into infinity position before shutting off. Has saved me some critical seconds after changing to a longer lens especially with the slower focusing lenses like the 85 L 1.2 or the 400 L 2.8

The biggest change the R/ has brought to me is that I suddenly start to use a complete different set of lenses when going on a trip.

Let’s pack the R7 for a 1 week (cruise) trip.

I use a Tamnrac Expedition 4 or 5 as a backpack. The 5 is a small backpack, The four well lets call it in regards to size “kawai”. The complete equipment mentioned below fits into the 4 but using the 5 is more convenient when accessing the equipment


What do I put in:

Eos R7
Sigma 17- 35 1,8
Sigma 50 -100 1,8

Canon EF 135 2,0 L

Canon EF 300 4,0 L

Canon EF RF Converter

Viltrox EF-R3

Canon 90 EX with RX adapter (only as last resort)

Batteries and Charger



I now have a very small but very heavy backpack which I don’t want to carry to long around. The solution is to make the backpack even more heavy and attach a small Loewwro back to the side of the Tarmac and have the chance to detach this little bag as a travel bag when just a selection of the equipment is needed.



The usual suspects 28-70 2,8 L and 70-200 2,8 L stay for once at home.



The Viltrox EF-R might scare some folks here, but it is cheap, available and it is a charm with the EF 300 4,0L. On the R7 you suddenly have a proper identified F 2.0 Lens with 300 mm range. The total weight of the combo is laughable, the size smaller than a 80d with the 70-200 L and the 2 stabilization systems work well together upgrading the outdated IS of the Lens very well



The Viltrox also works with the 135 L but here the gain in Fstop is not proper displayed





In the past I often left the 17-35 at home and took the 17-50 2.8 from Canon, Because of the reach but more often because of the lack of stabilization. Now? The Canon IBIS seems to be made for 17-35 range. Together with the F 1.8 this lens is a perfect companion for the R7. Little positive side effect: On a mirror slapper the Sigma tended to fog up when moving from airconditioned venues into hot and humid outside. This effect does not kick in with the R7



Now the Sigma 50-100 is a debatable choice because it is heavy like an anvil, eats up a lot of real estate in the Tamrac and seems to suck a lot of juice out of the battery of the R7 when not using one shot but with focal reducer or without IBIS makes this lens much more maneuverable and it is a very versatile portrait lens. Imagine a ball on a cruise ship, A 80-160 equivalent lens with 1.8 or a speed boosted 50-100 1,4 lens combined with the silent shutter of the R7 means neither sound nor the unnecessary flash will give you away. I usually end up as the bane of the onboard paparazzi as my pictures tend to be more natural than theirs.



To get the results I can achieve with the above-mentioned collection I would have had to use a trolly when using my 1Dx II with full frame glass. Don’t get me wrong there is also the respect for the holy trinity in my mind but above collection can be purchased for roughly a third of the money similar full frame performance would cost.





I would love to hear the experience others had with their R7 and if it is a gamechanger for them as well.
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Travel tripods and the best light weight gimbal head?

I just came across this tripod on Kickstarter and Indiegogo (HEIPI: The Most Compact 3-in-1 Travel Tripod) and it looks great! Anybody have one and would like to give comments?

Also, I have a Wimberly Wimberley Head® - Version II which I love, but as I am getting older, I need to lighten the load. Anyone with experience using an excellent very lightweight full gimbal head to recommend?

Thanks.

sek

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