A firmware update to address the IBIS issue is coming, no date yet [CR3]

It is the same for me too. I am concerned that it might be the leading indicator (the "canary in the coal mine") of subtler problems, even with IS lenses, that might also be fixed once Canon knows the failure mechanism. When you are hand-holding at slow shutter speeds, it is easy to think the picture "fail" was in your holding of the camera being outside the range of what stabilization could correct. You can be sure that if it is easily visible at 1/10th, it is also doing something at faster and slower shutter speeds. Still, it is not a life or death issue, or else it would not have taken half a year to identify.

While juanmaasecas did a great job identifying the problem, he didn't explain it well enough so anyone could replicate it. It took some back and forth on DPreivew for me to replicate it. I found I could set my R5 with back button focus to focus in the corner with the starting magnification being 100% on the focus spot (MENU->Playback (Blue) -> Tab4 -> Magnification ->Actual Size from selected point) and the shutter in electronic. I could fire off shots and then in playback compare them with the thumbwheel. I didn't even have to download them to the computer.

My fear was that it would just be seen at Canon as "User Error" when it can be replicated if you know what to do. I suspect those that say their camera does not have it, didn't replicate the conditions correctly. It now sounds like Canon has been able to verify the problem which is a big step to getting it fixed.
I’m sorry if I didn’t explain it correctly in the video but it’s deeply explained in my threads in dpreview/fredmiranda.
maybe it’s an issue of me not being a native English speaker and most of you guys not being used to having a camera with ibis. I’ve been shooting Sony for years and it’s my regular technique for slow shutter shots (mine and most Sony users). - keep half pressed the shutter button for a couple of seconds keeping your breath
- Very Smoothly fully press the button
-go back to half pressed position
- shoot again smoothly and back again to half press, etc.

I have never experienced consistent issues with Sony. Sometimes ibis works better, sometimes worse, that’s why you take a few and choose the best, but with Canon there is this shake after the first picture that makes it blurrier than with ibis set to off, and it’s quite visible when the liveview feedback is back. It’s so evident to me that it’s not even funny. But yes I’m used to take night cityscapes at 1/2s with non-IS primes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Upvote 0
I’m sorry if I didn’t explain it correctly in the video but it’s deeply explained in my threads in dpreview/fredmiranda.
maybe it’s an issue of me not being a native English speaker and most of you guys not being used to having a camera with ibis. I’ve been shooting Sony for years and it’s my regular technique for slow shutter shots (mine and most Sony users). - keep half pressed the shutter button for a couple of seconds keeping your breath
- Very Smoothly fully press the button
-go back to half pressed position
- shoot again smoothly and back again to half press, etc.

I have never experienced consistent issues with Sony. Sometimes ibis works better, sometimes worse, that’s why you take a few and choose the best, but with Canon there is this shake after the first picture that makes it blurrier than with ibis set to off, and it’s quite visible when the liveview feedback is back. It’s so evident to me that it’s not even funny. But yes I’m used to take night cityscapes at 1/2s with non-IS primes.
I thought it was pretty obvious what the problem was after reading this thread and the one at DPreview in their entirety.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Upvote 0
Seems like allowing the IBIS to be turned off yet keep IS on the lens should be an easy firmware fix - don't understand why it hasn't been done. I shoot underwater (haven't yet with my R5) and extreme wide angle lenses are pretty much mandatory for good normal u/w (i.e. not macro) shooting.
I use my EF16-35mm/4 underwater with my R5 regularly with an 8" dome. Always tricky to ascertain if the corner sharpness could be improved or not. IBIS should really improve keeper rate given we are always moving. I have been happy with mine.
I have only used my EF8-15mm once though and I didn't have the correct port length at the time (too short) so it wouldn't be a good test. A recent shot at Lady Elliot Island @ 16mm. There is softness in the right bottom corner but could be due to minimum focus distance
 

Attachments

  • Turtle.JPG
    Turtle.JPG
    482.7 KB · Views: 103
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Upvote 0
Good job CR.I didn't see any announcements from Canon. so is this the new way Canon protects it's sales i.e. get CR to talk about how Canon is aware but not date... this info has no value but just there to protect the sales.
First release some findings about this, built credibility of this site then come up with a statement like this which is not an official statement from Canon.
 
Upvote 0

rbr

Sep 11, 2010
129
64
This morning I took a hike with 2 of my favorite lenses, the Sigma ART 14-24 and the 28mm on the R5 and the problem never occurred once all morning with either lens. This afternoon the adapter ring I ordered with the drop in polarizer arrived , so I took some test shots with it in my backyard with those same 2 lenses, and the problem occurred in the first of every single sequence with both lenses. My camera was set to IS only on shot all day, so that doesn't make any difference. The only difference was the shutter speeds averaging slower, below 1/60 sec. with the polarizer, although there was some overlap and several shots at 1/15 sec. from this morning had no problem. I have never noticed the problem (when it occurs) to be a "twist", but more of an overall shake throughout the whole image.
 
Upvote 0
This morning I took a hike with 2 of my favorite lenses, the Sigma ART 14-24 and the 28mm on the R5 and the problem never occurred once all morning with either lens. This afternoon the adapter ring I ordered with the drop in polarizer arrived , so I took some test shots with it in my backyard with those same 2 lenses, and the problem occurred in the first of every single sequence with both lenses. My camera was set to IS only on shot all day, so that doesn't make any difference. The only difference was the shutter speeds averaging slower, below 1/60 sec. with the polarizer, although there was some overlap and several shots at 1/15 sec. from this morning had no problem. I have never noticed the problem (when it occurs) to be a "twist", but more of an overall shake throughout the whole image.
It’s a sensor rotation.
 
Upvote 0

rbr

Sep 11, 2010
129
64
It’s a sensor rotation.
I saw your video, and my camera never twists like that. It is always the entire image shifting along one axis - side to side in horizontals or up and down in verticals. The center of the frame looks no different than the corners when the problem occurs. Apparently it manifests differently in different cameras. Attached is a crop (from a vertical shot) from the center of one of my effected photos from my camera.
 

Attachments

  • 0I3A3702crop.jpg
    0I3A3702crop.jpg
    395.3 KB · Views: 74
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Aug 27, 2019
667
1,414
Spoke with Canon tech today as I am having issues with wobble on my R5 with rf15-35. They were clueless about the problem. The tech stated he was unaware of any IBIS issues and could not confirm if any other people have been complaining about the problem. Very upsetting and frustrating.
Nothing to be upset about, Canon Techs are told not to speculate of any issues until there is a fix. I am very friendly with a couple of the CPS Canada Techs and they all stay away from the forums or rumors because facts matter and that is it.

BTW if you are talking about the IBIS wobble in video on the R5 and RF15-35. Wide angle plus IBIS = wobble\warping.
 
Upvote 0
Nothing to be upset about, Canon Techs are told not to speculate of any issues until there is a fix. I am very friendly with a couple of the CPS Canada Techs and they all stay away from the forums or rumors because facts matter and that is it.

BTW if you are talking about the IBIS wobble in video on the R5 and RF15-35. Wide angle plus IBIS = wobble\warping.
From a business standpoint, it can only hurt you when you don't get out in front of issues such as these. They don't need to get caught up in rumors but should place some emphasis on acknowledging and addressing issues. This has already been said many times, especially with the overheating. Canon has their heads up their ass though and choose to ignore there is this thing called the internet where people talk and bad news travels quickly.

I have a Panasonic GH5 and no wobble when using FF lenses with Metabones. 16-35, takes the entire sensor and I would have to give it a jolt to get wobble.

On the R5 w/15-35, it's almost as if whatever is balancing the sensor is not strong enough. Any slight movement causes wobble. I have to be very steady and avoid wobble. If they can't fix the issue then they should give the shooter a re-shoot warning.
 
Upvote 0